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Messages - davidgzach

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Ingredients / Re: Hops Direct...Imported Pellets...Fresh?
« on: January 08, 2012, 06:29:29 AM »
I bought some 2010 Czech Saaz in 2011 before the new shipment and they were still great.  I just started buying from Hops Direct this year, and have 10 pounds in the fridge of whole and pellets of various types.  They have all been outstanding.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Second wind in the primary
« on: January 08, 2012, 06:15:05 AM »
Pretty sure I just laugh-sharted after the knitting comment!

I'll do that.  Gotta Get a turkey vaster but my siphon should work.

+1.  Turkey basters are the way to go,  Hit it with some StarSan and you are good to go.  I usually give it a little swirl when I put the airlock back on to purge any O2 that may have snuck in there.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ale Conditioning
« on: January 08, 2012, 06:09:51 AM »
So do you guys think I'm mistaken in conditioning my ales at 66F?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging with priming
« on: January 07, 2012, 04:23:47 PM »
I use priming sugar in almost all my kegs and it works just fine.

I boil .25 cup to .33 cup of corn sugar in about a cup of water, dump it in the keg and then rack on to it.  I use my CO2 tank to set the seals and then put the keg into my storage cabinet until it's needed.  

I'm typically 4-8 weeks ahead on my brewing so the kegs are carbed just fine when they go into the keg fridge.

You do have some sediment on the bottom and that comes out in the first pour (usually).

I also force carb if I need a beer in a hurry.  These are normally light colored "party beers" being served to BMC drinkers.  And you do need to push the beer for serving using CO2 from your cylinder.  There isn't enough gas in the keg to serve a beer carbed either way without external gas connected.


Great post.  I'm going to try this!

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Crash cooling question
« on: January 07, 2012, 04:20:24 PM »
The beer will need to be warmed back up in order to carbonate, but whether you do that in the fermenter or in the bottles doesn't matter.

+1  There are still yeast in suspension even cold.  Enough to prime the bottles unless it's been lagering for a very long time.  You can bottle it cold and let it warm up in the bottles.

+1.  Need to warm up.

Yeast and Fermentation / Ale Conditioning
« on: January 07, 2012, 04:10:17 PM »
Fellow Brewers,

I typically condition my ales in my boiler room at 66F and my lagers in the outside fridge at 34F.  I like to crash cool my ales before kegging in the outside fridge and then let them come up to 66F to condition. 

I'm wondering what you think the result would be if I just put the keg straight back in to the fridge?  2-3 weeks in primary, crash cool, then keg and condiditon at 34F.  Thoughts?  Thanks in advance.


All Grain Brewing / Re: is vorlauf necessary?
« on: January 07, 2012, 03:55:15 PM »
But if you yourself could detect no difference in the two batches, would you still vorlauf? ;)

I have a "belt and suspenders" kinda personality sometimes, so yeah, I probably still would.  Every once in a while I get more "stuff" coming out than I anticipated and there's no way for me to tell when that will happen.  Since it's quick and easy, I/d rather do it than wish that I would have done it.  OTOH, if I was one of the guys I read about who vorlauf several gal. I'd probably reconsider that.

I'll tell you what I'll do.  Because I don't think this is such a big concern that it warrants a double batch, and neither do I have the enthusiasm for it, what would you say to me brewing a single APA minus the vorlauf?  If you like, I would even be willing to stir the mash during the runoff, get the wort good and cloudy.  I'll send you two bottles.  You and someone else can taste for tannins, or other nasty elements.  

I'm in the vorlauf camp and wouldn't mind tasting for tannins!!!!!!!!   ;)

All Grain Brewing / Re: is vorlauf necessary?
« on: January 06, 2012, 01:09:56 PM »
I do think vorlauf is important and with my toilet connector, usually drain about 1 qt before clear.
I agree with Tom that pouring back the vorlauf is not a major issue as long as you are not disturbing the bottom half of the mash.
I have experienced HSA before buying a IC.  If you splash the wort around violently while it is over 95F, it can happen.
The only effect I have experienced from HSA is haze.
I don't think HSA matters as much pre-boil but I try to not splash the beer around anyway.

Happy New Year all!


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: 2206 Attenuation
« on: December 22, 2011, 07:16:25 AM »
Both had a protein rest at 131 and then 90 minutes at 155.  84% efficiency on the Czech Pils and 83% on the Winter. 

Yeast and Fermentation / 2206 Attenuation
« on: December 22, 2011, 06:40:34 AM »
I made a Czech Pils and a Winter Lager with 2206 Bavarian Lager.  Both only attenuated 68% at 51F over 3 weeks.  I'm just chalking it up to the yeast doing their own thing unless you guys think it could be something with my process.  A 1 gallon starter was made for the first and the entire (washed) slurry was pitched in to the second as it was 1.072 versus 1.050.  The Czech Pils is very tasty albeit a little sweet as it ended at 1.016.  The Winter lager ended at 1.024.  Thoughts?


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Secondary yes or no
« on: December 22, 2011, 06:37:37 AM »
I crash cool in the primary, then straight to the keg.

+1.  Me too.

For all my neighbors who have wanted to brew with me, I'm hosting "Man Day".  We'll start around 1:00PM and brew a Steam Beer.  The starter is swirling away now.  We'll then move to "Parents Day" and invite the wives for the aftter beer festivities.  Should be a lot of fun!  Got about a dozen coming.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Suddenly Chill Haze
« on: December 21, 2011, 10:02:41 AM »
Interesting topic. I as of late have been getting some really cloudy beers. I have been waiting about 20 minutes or so after the boil for the hot break to settle before pumping thru a CFWC. Think I should transfer immediatly after the boil?

My vote is-definitely. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Iodine test for mash conversion
« on: December 19, 2011, 06:45:50 AM »
I would like to point out that higher OG will make higher FG.
Is this necessarily true, black and white?  Doesn't a lot depend on the strain of yeast as well?  I've had some high gravity beers ferment way down and some mid gravity beers stop in the mid-teens mainly because of the yeast. 


Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Real or canned pumpkin?
« on: December 19, 2011, 06:01:12 AM »
Made a Pumpkin Ale this weekend by popular demand.  Used the canned instead of whole pumpkin for the first time.  Came out great and broke my efficientcy record because the pumpkin slowed the sparge so much.  It never got stuck thanks to a pound of rice hulls.  I used 4 cans to equal 7.25# of pumpkin.  OG:  1.083, Efficiency:  92.5%!


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