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Messages - davidgzach

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826
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Will the carbonation perk up?
« on: January 10, 2013, 11:25:55 AM »
One week is not long enough for a beer to carbonate in a bottle at room temperature.  At two weeks it may be most of the way there.  Probably best after three.

+1.  Give it at least another week.

827
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting a Barleywine
« on: January 10, 2013, 11:20:08 AM »
I usually do 1 minute per 5 gallons of ale, 2 for lagers or big beers.  You can re-oxygenate up to 24 hours later.  I don't have a flow meter.  I just turn it up until the bubbles start coming. 

I wouldn't trust the Grolsch bottles myself.

And do you have a way to control the fermentation temperature?  Lots of yeast with lots of sugar and oxygen make lots of heat.

Why do you not trust Grolsch bottles?

828
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermenting a Barleywine
« on: January 10, 2013, 08:55:48 AM »
Thanks for the replies.  I planned on a monster pitch upfront and actually a little more than what Mr Malty says being it's slurry.  I'll leave it at that and come back if there are any issues!

MTN-Where do I go about getting a flow meter?

Joe-You may have just talked me in to the full 5G batch!  I was just the recipient of 3 free cases of Grolsch bottles so I can afford to tie up 2 of them for a while since I mostly keg.

Dave

829
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Soapy off flavor
« on: January 10, 2013, 08:20:19 AM »
Any change in sanitizing/rinsing process?  Did you repitch slurry?  That's all I got.

Dave

830
Yeast and Fermentation / Fermenting a Barleywine
« on: January 10, 2013, 06:07:12 AM »
I got an O2 kit for Christmas and plan to use it for the first time on my first Barleywine.  Right now my recipe is at 1.102 for a 2.88 gallon batch.  I don't want to make a full 5G of this stuff!  I plan to repitch some WLB037 from a 1.050 Nut Brown Ale.  My questions:
1) How long should I aerate ~3 gallons of 1.102 wort with O2?
2) Should I re-aerate after a couple of days?  How many and for how long?
3) Should I add more slurry after a few days?  If yes, how many days?

Thanks!  Anything else I should be considering, please add!

Dave

831
Magnum/Chinook/Amarillo/Cascade AIPA and my first Barleywine!

Dave

832
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fly Sparging
« on: January 09, 2013, 11:19:38 AM »
Good info Jeff.  How is it that you can get >100%?  What makes up the calcs?

I also can see that if the process is sound, the PH correct and sparge water at the right temps, there is nothing wrong with over 85% efficiency.  I dialed mine back on some advice when I was getting 85%+ every batch, but I do not remember ever getting any astringency.  Sparge on if you like it that way!

I do like my consistent 80% and cutting the brew day down 30+ minutes though.....

Dave

833
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fly Sparging
« on: January 09, 2013, 09:56:17 AM »
Given their quality control, I can see how maximizing efficiency would be an advantage to a professional brewer in a professional brewery.  For the homebrewer, I've had numerous very experienced brewers tell me not to shoot for it as you run the risk of over sparging and extracting tannins.

To each their own, but I think comparing even a very experienced home brewer to Sierra Nevada is a major stretch......if we could all brew like Sierra Nevada, there would not be a Sierra Nevada.

Dave

834
Ingredients / Re: FRESH MILLED GRAIN
« on: January 09, 2013, 09:52:38 AM »
It all depends upon how it is stored.  But even in a sealed container, I would give it a month or maybe two max.  Denny also raises a good point about the small particulate.

Dave

835
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fly Sparging
« on: January 09, 2013, 05:45:03 AM »
I takes me a minimum of 45 minutes to fly sparge the mash for a 10 gallon batch. I consistently get 90+ efficiency.

I gave up the 10% efficiency to save 30+ minutes.  I was also worried about over-sparging.  From the forum and reading I found that over 85% was not particularly a good thing. 

On the teig side, I've only experienced this in quantity with multi-step mashes or when I perform a protein rest.

836
Seriously.  I've opened my fermenting chest with 4 lagers going and bent in to adjust the blow off tube.  I almost passed out from all the CO2 and Sulphur. 

Dave

837
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Re-use of dry hops
« on: January 08, 2013, 08:04:50 AM »
+1.  It's a noble thought, ::), but the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages IMHO.

Dave

838
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sort of a pole
« on: January 08, 2013, 06:18:36 AM »
Since I'm 3/4 polish would that make me 'Sort of a Pole' or 'Mostly a Pole'?   ;D

839
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fly Sparging
« on: January 07, 2013, 09:11:15 AM »

I learned that from Jeff (hopfen) who learned it at Sierra Nevada beer camp, so there's at least one major pro brewer that needs your expertise.
I have found that it helps when there is a lot of fine particulate on the surface of the grain bed.

Its interesting that you mention SN since the firm I work for is providing engineering services to both the Chico and Asheville facilities.   I'm pretty sure they don't cut or rake the grain bed in a 200 bbl mash tun.  They are sort of big.  But the description you and others provide, make it clear that the purpose of the cutting is not: "to prevent channeling", but to improve flow through the bed by disturbing that surface layer.  That makes perfect sense. 

I mash with RIMS and the flow rate through the bed during mashing is far higher than when I'm running off.  I've never seen a layer of anything on my mashes.  I wonder why regular mashes present this.  Do most brewers have this layer on their mash?

Given the real purpose of the cutting, many shallow cuts through the surface of the bed would be most effective.

Shallow being the operative word here?  That would definitely make sense.

840
Beer Recipes / Re: Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale
« on: January 07, 2013, 06:42:18 AM »
To report back on this, I tapped it yesterday with my buddy.  It was nothing short of amazing!  The combination of the WLP037 and toasted oats gave it a pronounced but not overpowering nutty flavor.  The brown malt provided some toffee, the chocolate some coffee which blended great with the caramel malt.  Here was the final recipe for 10G.  I would highly recommend it, but I think you have to use the 037.....

17# Marris Otter
1# Brown Malt
9 oz crystal 60
9 oz toasted oats (baked 60 mins at 350F)
7 oz chocolate malt
2.5 oz EKG at 60
1 oz Fuggles at 60
1 oz Fuggles at 15
70 minute mash at 156
OG-1.050
FG-1.012
ABV-5.02%

If you brew it, please report back on your thoughts.

Dave

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