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Messages - davidgzach

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826
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fly Sparging
« on: January 09, 2013, 05:45:03 AM »
I takes me a minimum of 45 minutes to fly sparge the mash for a 10 gallon batch. I consistently get 90+ efficiency.

I gave up the 10% efficiency to save 30+ minutes.  I was also worried about over-sparging.  From the forum and reading I found that over 85% was not particularly a good thing. 

On the teig side, I've only experienced this in quantity with multi-step mashes or when I perform a protein rest.

827
Seriously.  I've opened my fermenting chest with 4 lagers going and bent in to adjust the blow off tube.  I almost passed out from all the CO2 and Sulphur. 

Dave

828
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Re-use of dry hops
« on: January 08, 2013, 08:04:50 AM »
+1.  It's a noble thought, ::), but the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages IMHO.

Dave

829
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sort of a pole
« on: January 08, 2013, 06:18:36 AM »
Since I'm 3/4 polish would that make me 'Sort of a Pole' or 'Mostly a Pole'?   ;D

830
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fly Sparging
« on: January 07, 2013, 09:11:15 AM »

I learned that from Jeff (hopfen) who learned it at Sierra Nevada beer camp, so there's at least one major pro brewer that needs your expertise.
I have found that it helps when there is a lot of fine particulate on the surface of the grain bed.

Its interesting that you mention SN since the firm I work for is providing engineering services to both the Chico and Asheville facilities.   I'm pretty sure they don't cut or rake the grain bed in a 200 bbl mash tun.  They are sort of big.  But the description you and others provide, make it clear that the purpose of the cutting is not: "to prevent channeling", but to improve flow through the bed by disturbing that surface layer.  That makes perfect sense. 

I mash with RIMS and the flow rate through the bed during mashing is far higher than when I'm running off.  I've never seen a layer of anything on my mashes.  I wonder why regular mashes present this.  Do most brewers have this layer on their mash?

Given the real purpose of the cutting, many shallow cuts through the surface of the bed would be most effective.

Shallow being the operative word here?  That would definitely make sense.

831
Beer Recipes / Re: Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale
« on: January 07, 2013, 06:42:18 AM »
To report back on this, I tapped it yesterday with my buddy.  It was nothing short of amazing!  The combination of the WLP037 and toasted oats gave it a pronounced but not overpowering nutty flavor.  The brown malt provided some toffee, the chocolate some coffee which blended great with the caramel malt.  Here was the final recipe for 10G.  I would highly recommend it, but I think you have to use the 037.....

17# Marris Otter
1# Brown Malt
9 oz crystal 60
9 oz toasted oats (baked 60 mins at 350F)
7 oz chocolate malt
2.5 oz EKG at 60
1 oz Fuggles at 60
1 oz Fuggles at 15
70 minute mash at 156
OG-1.050
FG-1.012
ABV-5.02%

If you brew it, please report back on your thoughts.

Dave

832
I have 'Sparge Pal' on my iPhone and use it every brew day.  Also, the Mr. Malty app is pretty handy. 

Jamil, please send me my $2!   ;D


Dave

833
All Grain Brewing / Re: Fly Sparging
« on: January 07, 2013, 06:15:50 AM »
Personally, I do not touch the grain bed and get consistent 80% efficiency.  I used to get closer to 85% until I decided I could trade some efficiency for sparge time.  I now fly sparge 10 gallons in about 25 minutes.  As stated it's all about knowing your equipment.  I would start slow so you get the hang of adjusting the input versus the output and take it from there when you check your efficiency.  As said, try to keep .5"-1" of water above the grain bed.

I could see cutting the grain bed helping get the sparge water through the coagulated protein, but not how it would help prevent channeling.  I don't see how cutting would ruin a beer either.  It may just hurt on a few efficiency points. 

Dave


834
Print out a few BJCP scoring sheets and do some tastings with your wife on various beers.  I was surprised at the different scoring my buddy and I had.  You may also find that you have sensitivities (hopefully not emotional  ;)) that she does not.  It's a fun exercise.

Dave

835
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Sort of a pole
« on: January 04, 2013, 09:00:07 AM »
Typically 3 weeks.  If I feel it fermented fast and clean then 2 weeks for ales.

For lagers, 3 weeks or until at FG.  If it's close to FG, I'll typically raise the temp to 65F to let it burn out and clean up.

Dave

836
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2013 Brew Year's Resolutions/Goals
« on: January 04, 2013, 07:53:02 AM »
-start culturing yeast.
-have a RIMS system built by the end of the year.

If I get both done, I'm very happy!   ;D

Dave

837
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German Lager flavor, round 2
« on: January 04, 2013, 05:40:00 AM »
I fermented a Czech Pils at 38F last year....yes that's right 38F. It took about two days to form the Krausen, but it was a thick white creamy layer (approx. 3" thick) of yeast WLP800, and very dense. I've never witnessed a krausen so clean, dense and white almost bright. It took almost 4 weeks for the krausen to drop. The beer was then lagered on the yeast for about 4 weeks. It had a nice clean grainy profile and a very fine beer indeed.

That's a lot of patience Ron!

Dave

838
Beer Recipes / Re: Did I Overdo It?
« on: January 04, 2013, 05:33:55 AM »
That's a lot of hops, especially late addition.  I think the bitterness won't be overwhelming, but the flavor and aroma might be enough that you can't tell it's a lager.  Next time an ale yeast might produce the same result with less effort.

Not sure I agree, but I guess we'll see in a few weeks!  I just brought it down to 38 where I'll leave it for 3-4 weeks before kegging.

Dave

839
Beer Recipes / Re: Did I Overdo It?
« on: January 03, 2013, 03:10:25 PM »
I had a bottle of Sierra Nevada's Beer Camp #43 Imperial Pilsner.  It was great and the inspiration for this recipe and experiment.

Dave

840
Beer Recipes / Re: Harp
« on: January 03, 2013, 03:02:00 PM »
Resurrecting this old thread......

Has anyone ever brewed my Harp recipe above?  Or something similar to it?  I'm going to brew it next month and was wondering how close it came to the real thing.  I think it should be right, but now I'm also wondering if Harp actually uses a German yeast and German hops.  It is quite a German tasting lager, really.  So I was wondering if I should tweak my recipe in that regard.  What do you think?

I like everything you have above, however I would add 4oz of Acid Malt to bring down the PH instead of the 5.2 stuff.  Let us know how it turns out.

Dave

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