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Messages - davidgzach

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Effects of process variables on carbonation
« on: December 06, 2012, 05:22:12 AM »
Here is what I use.

From a previous discussion I was told that we could not get a FG high enough in brewing to have an effect on the numbers.


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WTF?
« on: December 06, 2012, 05:14:10 AM »
This is why experiments, including brewing experiments, that aren't replicated are crap.

So he should brew 10 more gallons, split, and ferment with the same yeasts?

Sounds like a great suggestion to me.

Sounds like a plan.  I'll even re-combine the slurrys for the pitch.  Need to make 10g of my ESB anyway!  Let's see what these gremlins try this time....

As to the above, I think the only reasonable explanation would be stratification.  I did fill the bucket first so I could see in the BB when I started sucking up trub.

I also hit every number on the button for this brew and the FG number I wanted was 1.012.  I'd rather RDWHAHB and just pretend they both got there!   ::)


EDIT:  I forgot to add that I swirled the starter and poured back and forth in the glasses until full.  They had to be very close to even...

Yeast and Fermentation / WTF?
« on: December 05, 2012, 03:02:11 PM »
Made 10g of a Sam Smith Nut Brown Ale clone.  Split half in a bucket, half in a Better Bottle for primary.  Used WLP037 (only 8 days old when it arrived) and made an appropriate starter which I decanted and split in to 2 equal glasses to pitch.  Fermented side by side at 65F.  Raised to 67F 3 days ago.

At 2 weeks and a couple of days the BB is at 1.016 and the bucket is at 1.012.  WTF?


Making my Chimay clone.  Starter is stirring away and smells great!


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Using Oak Cubes
« on: December 05, 2012, 11:18:57 AM »
I've oaked my IPA's in the past.  I've also over-oaked.  Not very tasty.....

Start light, IMHO.


All Grain Brewing / Re: 5-gallon vs. 10-gallon cooler?
« on: December 05, 2012, 05:37:49 AM »
I haven't had issue with my five gallon mash tun cooler, but then I'm only on batch 4 of AG brewing, only brewing up to 5 gallons, and I'm not making rocket fuel.  When the time comes to step up, I will.  For now, it seems to be working just fine.  It's a five gallon igloo water cooler converted to a mash tun with braided stainless hose and copper coil.  When I get around to building the ten gallon, I'll probably use the false bottom method but might keep the braided mesh/copper coil setup as a backup.

Save the $100 and stick with the s/s braided mesh for $8.

Nice set up!  Jealous....

Wonder if this means I could make lagers in my tub-of-water temp control system?

I would think so.  However, I would also think it has a lot to do with the yeast strain.  Some just plow out diacetyl and sulphur if underpitched and warm. 

Do they ferment lagers cold or at the same temp as ales?  The reason I ask is this...for years I judged at local homebrew comps where BOS was always won by the same guy.  He made fantastic lagers of all varieties, especially bock.  No one who was judging had ever heard of him but year after year we were astounded at the quality of his lagers, including guys who had been brewing for 30 years.  He eventually joined our club and one night I had a chance to talk to him about his beers.  He pitched a single vial or smackpack into 5 gal. at room temp and fermented them at room temp.  Seldom even did lagering after fermentation.  Let me reiterate that these are some of the best homebrews I've ever tasted.  Everyone in the club was in shock, although AFAIK no one has had the guts to try his methods.  But it's certainly food for thought.

Wyeast does list 2124 up to 68F.  That could be worth an experiment outside a Cali Common.

How the heck did they get away with pitching one vial in to 10G of lager wort?  Do they have a diacetyl removing machine or something?  How long is the lagering period?

I had a few lagers, and no diacetyl. I'm pretty sensitive to that stuff.

I'll have to ask about the lager fermentation process when I'm back in 2 weeks. That's when they bottle.

After the primary fermentation of 7 days (ales) the beer is cold crashed for 7 days, filtered and force carbonated.


Please post that?  I intrigued now as to what they are doing for lagers....



How the heck did they get away with pitching one vial in to 10G of lager wort?  Do they have a diacetyl removing machine or something?  How long is the lagering period?


Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging without a fridge
« on: December 04, 2012, 06:18:43 AM »
+1.  You should be able to find a working fridge on Craigslist cheap....I found an upright freezer for $100. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: OG right after pitching yeast
« on: December 03, 2012, 12:29:15 PM »

It was a full boil.  I may have to get a more efficient chilling process if I want to get it down to 68 or below.  I use a homemade immersion chiller and ice bath in a big wash tub.  I can chill to 70-75 range in about 20 minutes.

I agree with the pitching temp as well.  If you can get to 70-75 in 20 minutes, I would think you can get to 65F in 30 minutes?

All Grain Brewing / Re: OG right after pitching yeast
« on: December 03, 2012, 09:02:27 AM »
So I'm an idiot.  I guess I was so happy that I had enought volume at the end of the boil that I forgot to collect some wort for an OG reading.  However, we noticed it as soon as we put the carboy in the fermentation chamber.  We immediately took it out and grabbed a sample for an OG reading.  I was going for 1.086, but got 1.071.  We already aerated and pitched the yeast.  I would estimate about 8-10 minutes passed between the pitching of the yeast and the OG reading.  Is this OG reading valid, or did the yeast start going that quickly?  FYI, I pitched two packs of US-05.

1.071 is the number.  Did you take the reading at the right temp?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Pests in brew house/ Need storage suggestions!
« on: December 03, 2012, 08:21:57 AM »

Dean, what happened to make you this passionate against the Vittles Vault?  Did grain spoil on you?  I've had a good experience with mine thus far.


Well, to make a long story shorter (I hope) Keep in mind the ones I bought were probably 8 years ago so they might have fixed the plastic mold quality and seals but I doubt it.

I bought the first one (about 14 gallon size) and made a fermenter out of it, then bought two more for grain storage. I found that all of these had such inconsistent molding of the main vessel that I had to hand file it to make the gasket surfaces seal on the lid mount ring. After that I found that for the o-ring in the spin-on lid to seal it had to be screwed on so tight that it took a mallet to loosen it. Kind of impractical for something advertised as being better than regular bucket lids and costing $45+ each. I really didn't care that the airlock didn't bubble as I knew the nasties would not be able to just float in due to the poor seal, but with our high humidity here in Florida I wasn't willing to leave my bulk grain possibly exposed to moisture and possibly insects (no rodents :-) I just want to make sure people don't think they are getting something better than buckets, and spending money for no reason. They should call them the "gimmick-Seal lids" not Gamma Seal. Just my experience, opinion, and a bit of humor.

Not to mention that if you need to really clean them you need to remove the lid mount and that is difficult and can break that part. If used for fermenters this is where the nasties hide. My solution and modification suggestions for this are at the bottom of the main page of my website. Pics of the vessels as fermenters is also on the site.

OK, I just use mine to store bulk grain, not as a fermentor.  I can see how that could cause problems.

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