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Messages - hoser

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Desperately need some yeast advice!
« on: January 03, 2012, 09:26:02 PM »
Go with WLP007.  That beer will ferment out to near 80% attenuation in about 3 days and the beauty is it floccs like WLP002.  You want to try and control ferment temps because that yeast will want to run away from you.  If you can, pitch at about 66F, let it free rise to 69F, hold and ferment at 69F x 3 days and then move it to somewhere warm in your house to finish out ferment.  Dry hop and then crash cool and transfer over to your serving vessel (obviously easier if you have a keg and can force carbonate).  In my experience, WLP090 is very finnicky (personnnally after 2 very poor ferments, I will never use again) and WLP001 is a poor flocculator.  WLP007 is the best of both worlds:  a strong attenuator/fermentor and a good flocculator.  Good luck!

It could be your beer is just "sick', which sometimes happens with Brett or sour beer fermentations?  I would give the beer some more time to age and condition

Ingredients / Re: Black IPA and Carafa II Malt question
« on: December 25, 2011, 08:09:57 AM »
You will be fine.  I typically throw by carafa III in with the rest of the grains in my black IPAs with no problems. RDWHAHB!

Wood/Casks / Re: Tequila Barrels
« on: December 21, 2011, 08:24:23 PM »
Drew, did you ever find a source for tequila barrels.  Inquiring minds want to know....

Ingredients / Re: Dry hopping using pellets
« on: December 21, 2011, 11:59:50 AM »
Dry hopping is done after primary fermentation. The co2 produced will help to carry away the aroma , and the hop oils will latch onto the yeast cells and drop out with the yeast. Hops do not need to be sanitized. How much to add depends on your taste and or style of beer you want. It is the hop oil not the alpha acids that matters here, so the higher oil content the greater possible aroma produced. In a bag or straight is fine. Many different types of bags may be used, womens nylons work well.You must sanitize the bag. You may want to weigh the hops down in a bag to submerge them. Cold crashing works well to get the hops out of suspension for cleaner beer.  Every brew system will work better one way or another, let the dry hop experimentig begin....

+1 ;D

Attempting an Arrogant Bastard clone....

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Help! Brett only beer slow/stuck fermentation?
« on: December 06, 2011, 09:08:00 PM »
What was your pH of the wort prior to pitching? Also, did you make a starter. Yes, Brett. is slow fermenter, but behaves like a normal yeast when it is the only organism.  You may not see a pelicle if all you pitched was Brett. Lambicus.  Brett does like an acidic environment, but if your initial pH was too low it may preceed slower than normal.  Brett. generally likes the 4.0-4.5 range.  That is why you generally add the sour bacteria after the Brett. has finished it's secondary fermentation.  All that being said, I would do nothing.  Be patient and wait.  You will do more harm than good. Your beer will be fine.  As Charlie says. "RDWHAHB"

Ingredients / Re: Amber Malt
« on: December 02, 2011, 11:36:00 AM »
No, I have tried it.  I can't say if made a huge difference in my beer.  I can't remember the beer I added it to.  I followed the procedure I found in Old British Beers and How To Make Them by Dr. John Harrison and members of The Durden Park Beer Circle.  It is so much more convient and reproduceable to buy a product from a maltster than to find time myself to do it with a full-time job and 3 kids.   ;)

Ingredients / Re: Amber Malt
« on: December 01, 2011, 09:21:10 PM »
Who says it's not fresh?  I bet it is just as fresh as the 2-row that is toasted in your oven.

Beer Recipes / Re: wheat wine
« on: November 27, 2011, 10:06:08 AM »
Maybe you've had a different experience, but every wheat wine I've had was much more like a BW than a wheat beer.  Based on that, are you sure you want to go in a spicy, phenolic direction?


Your recipe and description sound more like a pale weizenbock rather than a wheat wine.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Chocolate flavor in Porter
« on: November 08, 2011, 10:41:25 AM »
I use cacao nibs quite commonly in the secondary.  I generally toast them for 15 minutes at 350F, stirring frequently. 4oz/5gallons generally added in the secondary in a mesh bag.  Taste daily and then remove them when I get the flavor profile I desire.  Minimal fuss and mess.  Adding them to the boil kettle may add astringency just like adding coffee to a boil.  I would avoid the powder in the boil as it forms sludge on the bottom of your kettle and adding it to the secondary creates a big mess as it forms nucleation points for the CO2 to leave solution....FOAM OVER!  Nibs produce a cleaner, natural chocolate flavor, IMHO.  You can use lactose to create more of a chocolate milk type porter.  Chocolate or pale chocolate malt will add a nice complementary flavor to the nibs.

For what its worth, I don't buy into the myth that cacao nibs and coconut affect head retention.  I make a Hawaiian porter frequently with 4oz. of cacao nibs and 1.5lbs of toasted flaked coconut and have a nice thick dense head on my porter reminiscent of an IPA or belgian beer.  My theory is the oil floats on top of the beer and the beer is drawn out from the bottom of the keg.

Beer Recipes / Re: A belgianish IPA
« on: October 28, 2011, 07:05:40 AM »
I would use lots of the "C" hops late like centennial, cascade, citra, and amarillo.  Hop bursting and dry hoping for more hop flavor and aroma.  Brett is also a nice complement with some of the tropical fruit and pineapple that you get from it, if you are feeling adventerous. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP San Diego Super Yeast (user update)
« on: October 27, 2011, 09:57:02 AM »
Just pulled a sample after 6 days of primary to see how fermentation is coming along.  I still have krausen and yeast is quite obviously in suspension, so this wasn't an "is it done yet?" sample, mostly just a progress check.

Gravity is still at 1.027 after an O.G. of 1.070.  Fermentation has been conducted at a steady 66F, although I brought it up to 68F after three days of fermentation (under the assumption that I was further along than I truly was).

Sample tastes great, but I'm surprised at how slowly it is fermenting, give the description offered by White Labs.

10/7/2011 Update: Took another gravity reading 11 days after pitching, and I'm still at 1.020 with continued visible signs of fermentation.  The sample tastes fine, but I'm surprised by how slowly fermentation is progressing.  I made a 1L starter and had pitched the starter at high krausen at ~16 hours.  Not sure what may have happened, but right now I don't see a compelling reason to use this yeast again.

I am noting similar problems with WLP090 as well.  Made an AIPA, mashed at 150F, pH 5.3 (yes, I calibrated them before the brew).  5% of the grist was C-20L.  Made a 2L starter ahead of time, chilled, decanted and then added 1.5L of IPA wort to the flask.  Got the yeast active and then pitched at 64F, slowly ramping up to 68F.  After 1 week I check my gravity prior to dry hopping and the beer went from 1.068 to 1.030, grrrrrrr....I made up an oxygenated starter of WLP007 and got it down to 1.020 today after 2 weeks, even after warming it up to 72-74F.  Still not where I want it.

Similar problem with a Hawaiian porter I brewed on Saturday.  This is the 5th time I have brewed this recipe and the second time I have used WLP090 in as many weeks. Worked up the starter the same way as the IPA.  Mashed at 154F, pH 5.3.  8% of the grist C-60L.  Pitched at 64F, but ramped up the heat a little faster to 72F over 3+ days.  Checked my gravity this AM, once again 1.068 to 1.020.  Usually this recipe finishes out at 1.012-1.014.

Same yeast, 2 different beers.  Despite all of the rave reviews of this yeast, it seems to be a little finicky to me.  I get consistent, reproducable results with WLP001, WLP007.  After 2 bad experiences with WLP090, I see no reason to use this yeast again.  Going to try to unstick my ferments with WLP099.  Wish me luck...

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitching Rates: Wyeast vs Mr. Malty
« on: October 25, 2011, 09:05:27 AM »
I have also found that pitching an "active" starter gives better results because the yeast is ramped up and ready to go.  I like to make up a starter according to  Let it ferment out. Then chill.  On brew day decant and add 1L of my wort to the decanted yeast.  Get both my wort and yeast at the near the same temp so there is no schock.  Then once the yeast is "active" (usually after 2-3 hours), pitch it into my oxygenated wort.

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