Drew, did you ever find a source for tequila barrels. Inquiring minds want to know....
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Dry hopping is done after primary fermentation. The co2 produced will help to carry away the aroma , and the hop oils will latch onto the yeast cells and drop out with the yeast. Hops do not need to be sanitized. How much to add depends on your taste and or style of beer you want. It is the hop oil not the alpha acids that matters here, so the higher oil content the greater possible aroma produced. In a bag or straight is fine. Many different types of bags may be used, womens nylons work well.You must sanitize the bag. You may want to weigh the hops down in a bag to submerge them. Cold crashing works well to get the hops out of suspension for cleaner beer. Every brew system will work better one way or another, let the dry hop experimentig begin....
Maybe you've had a different experience, but every wheat wine I've had was much more like a BW than a wheat beer. Based on that, are you sure you want to go in a spicy, phenolic direction?
Just pulled a sample after 6 days of primary to see how fermentation is coming along. I still have krausen and yeast is quite obviously in suspension, so this wasn't an "is it done yet?" sample, mostly just a progress check.
Gravity is still at 1.027 after an O.G. of 1.070. Fermentation has been conducted at a steady 66F, although I brought it up to 68F after three days of fermentation (under the assumption that I was further along than I truly was).
Sample tastes great, but I'm surprised at how slowly it is fermenting, give the description offered by White Labs.
10/7/2011 Update: Took another gravity reading 11 days after pitching, and I'm still at 1.020 with continued visible signs of fermentation. The sample tastes fine, but I'm surprised by how slowly fermentation is progressing. I made a 1L starter and had pitched the starter at high krausen at ~16 hours. Not sure what may have happened, but right now I don't see a compelling reason to use this yeast again.