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Messages - hoser

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631
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Rye Malt Extract
« on: August 25, 2011, 10:49:06 AM »
I used some Northern Brewer Pilsner extact this summer to brew a German Pils and a Kolsch.  Placed good cleaning, sanitizing, proper pitching rates with a starter, oxygenation, and controlled ferment temps.  I detect no "twang".  Beers came out great and fellow brewers at a local comp were "astonished" these beers were extract.  Don't fear the "Twang"!  Planning on doing an extract based Belgian Golden ale next week based on my success.  I love brewing all grain, but don't mind a 2 hour brew day when you have 3 little ones running around the house ;)

632
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Moktoberfest yeast recommendations?
« on: August 24, 2011, 11:05:18 AM »
Not sure you will have enought time to use an Alt strain since those typically have to be lagered after primary fermentation.  I am not saying it can't be done, it just may be pushing it.  You may be able to pull it off with a california/San Francisco lager strain, but will have similar constraints.

Your best bet will be to use a large pitch of WLP001/WY1056 and ferment cool around 60F.  IMHO

633
Brewing a Wit on Sunday and smoking a bunch more malt.
My friend from Swamphead Brewery is coming down from Gainesville with three sacks of malt to smoke on my smoker.  The Alder Smoked Porter we made with the last batch took first place at the WaZoo beer festival out of about 250 beers, so he wants to make 10 more barrels so he can have a batch with chipotles.
(I wonder if there's a market for cold-smoked malt?  Should I start a thread on ingredients?)

Yes Please!!! ;D

634
I follow the same regimen. Ferment out, allow to rest for about 24 hrs then crash cool. Decant most of the spent wort and pitch. My new technique is to add some fresh wort to the decanted starter
about three hours prior to pitching. This enables the starter to become active prior to pitching.

+1 this is my recent MO as well.  I also place the starter in the same fermentation chamber as wort so I am pitching at the same temp as well.

635
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Hop Clog Woes
« on: August 24, 2011, 09:33:26 AM »
No experience, but the design of the Sure Screen looks (to me) to be indicative of quick clog when used on a pickup tube. There's no meaningful surface area where the beer enters the tube which is gonna pull all debris to that small pickup zone. As the bottom of the screen clogs, the beer will attempt to enter higher and higher up the screen. Seems like you could end up with 5 or 6 inches (the length of the Sure Screen) of beer in the keg as the intake has to works its way progressively up the screen.

I have never had an issue with a surescreen clogging with pellet hops or whole leaf hops, ever.  I typically dry hop in my fermenter (a 10 gallon corny).  I generally dry hop my hoppy ales with no less than 4oz. of pellets and have dry hopped with 8oz. on more than one occasion and have never had a transfer clog with hops or yeast when I jump from my 10 gallon corny fermenter into my 5 gallon kegs. If you are really worried about it, you could trim off a 1/2" to 1" of your dip tube, but I don't think this is necessary.  I just place the surescreen on my diptube after I clean the keg with PBW, then soak in Star San and jump to the next empty keg so I can purge the keg of O2 with CO2 and then jump from the fermenter to the sanitized keg after crash cooling the fermenter.

636
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 10 easy steps to being a better brewer
« on: August 23, 2011, 02:20:52 PM »
1.) Clean
2.) Sanitize
3.) Use quality ingredients
4.) Attempt to understand the mash
5.) Cool the wort as quickly as possible, after boiling
6.) Use proper pitch rates
7.) Use proper fermentation temperatures
8.) Be patient
9.) Be patient
10.) Enjoy, with pride
+1 ;D

637
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 10 easy steps to being a better brewer
« on: August 23, 2011, 01:42:19 PM »
1. Cleanliness
2. Sanitation
I thought about that, but these were so basic I skipped them. :o

Sometimes the basic stuff gets overlooked and needs to be reinforced.  You would be surprised how many brewers I speak to that overlook the most simple, yet important steps....

638
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 10 easy steps to being a better brewer
« on: August 23, 2011, 01:32:32 PM »
1. Cleanliness
2. Sanitation
These should be the first 2 ALWAYS (after RDWHAHB)!
9. Join a homebrew community

639
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation
« on: August 23, 2011, 12:37:01 PM »
As long as you practice good cleanliness and sanitation, none.  I frequently does this a lot in the summer with no problems.  Plus, I like to pitch a little cooler than my ferment temps and let it free rise to the temp I ferment at.

640
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: American Farmhouse Blend yeast WLP670
« on: August 23, 2011, 07:53:50 AM »
I have a few vials waiting to use for a saison I have in mind, I just don't have any open carboys or fermenters at the moment. Good problem to have. I am excited to use it!

Without knowing exactly the yeast, since it is proprietary, my best guess is use White Labs Saison I (duPont) and then pitch Brett. Bruxellensis (orval) at the same time as the initial pitch.  You could either get a vial of the Brett or pitch a couple of dregs of Orval bottles into the fermenter.  Or you could wait to pitch the Brett after primary fermentation is complete.  Is seems like a lot of probrewers prefer Brett. anomalus, but I have not seen that on a homebrew scale.  So, it could be that strain a well?  It is reported to be one of Tomme Arthur's Lost Abbey farmhouse ale strains, so if you can get your hands on a bottle you may also be able to build it up to a pitchable size.

641
Zymurgy / Re: 2012 Zymurgy ideas
« on: August 16, 2011, 12:13:14 PM »
1. Brettanomyces
2. Alternatives to oak/exotic wood aging
3. Use of New Zealand hop varieties in beer
4. West Coast bitters/San Diego session ales
5. Water chemistry

642
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Hop Clog Woes
« on: August 16, 2011, 11:10:02 AM »
Surescreens work better and are made of better stainless steel than a scrubby.  They also fit over the end of your out tube.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/default/surescreen.html

A tincture of time and patience will also work.  Keeping the keg cold and stationary will allow the debris to eventually fall out.  The first few pints may be a little "dirty," but eventually it clears up.  Adding a little gelatin can speed up the process.

643
I prefer longer lag times vs. shorter lag times, but that is just my opinion.  When my beers take off to quick I am concerned about yeast growth occuring too fast, fermenting too warm, and fusels, etc. I like to think of fermentations as more of a marathon than a sprint.  IMHO a bubbling air lock is the most meaningless thing in homebrewing.  It is a sign of gas escaping from a vessel or container, not fermentation itself.  

644
Jamil (Mrmalty) says it should be 10% or less of your total volume.  A little bit probably depends on the style of beer you are brewing.  Probably less for a pilsner ( I would decant like you mentioned).  You can probably go a little over the 10% with a RIS or barleywine.  This issue is the flavor impact from the starter wort.  I think you will be fine, especially if you pitched at high krausen or around that time.  RDWHAHB! :D

645
Beer Recipes / Re: Scottish Ale
« on: August 04, 2011, 08:06:53 AM »
IMO the style is about the base malt and the yeast. Simple grain bills as well. (three malt max) I do think you have to have 'some' crystal in there but not a lot. A sprinkle of RB would be fine to get the color right. Mashing at 158 and under attenuating seems to defeat the idea of eliminating the sweetness.

I don't think I ever mentioned the word "sweetness"  There you go putting words in my mouth (or fingers) ;D.  It is a common misconception that high mash temps and underattenuation will create "sweetness".  The reason you mash high is to create long chain dextrins which lead to mouth feel and chewiness.  Maltiness is often confused as sweetness.  Melanoidin, biscuit, toasty, etc. is along the lines of being malty.  The reason for using WLP001 and slightly underattenuate is to leave some of the dextrins and prevent the beer from being thin.  Just because the beer may be underattenuated does not mean it will be sweet.  Considering Cal Ale yeast can easily attenuate to 80%, by underpitching and keeping the ferment cool, it may only attenuate to 70-75%, which can still give a dry perception.  Which is right in line with the specs given for WLP028 scottish ale yeast attenuation percentage of 70-75%.  Maybe saying "underattenuate" was a poor choice of words, the goal is lower the attenuation percentage.

Lots of things besides underattenuation can give the perception of "sweetness."  Alcohols, fermentation esters, crystal malts, and even some hop varietals.  I have had plenty of Belgian beers and IPAs that I know are bone dry, but give the perception of sweetness because of the factors I previously mentioned.  I also know for a fact that Lagunitas mashes their IPA at 160F and there is no apparent sweetness in that beer.  Having brewed Jamil's recipe more than once and based on his success in competition with that beer, I would definitely say the recipe does not create a sweet beer.

In terms of a standard Scottish ale recipes there is more than one way to skin a cat.  The one thing I would say is DO NOT use peat malt!

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