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Messages - hoser

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646
I prefer longer lag times vs. shorter lag times, but that is just my opinion.  When my beers take off to quick I am concerned about yeast growth occuring too fast, fermenting too warm, and fusels, etc. I like to think of fermentations as more of a marathon than a sprint.  IMHO a bubbling air lock is the most meaningless thing in homebrewing.  It is a sign of gas escaping from a vessel or container, not fermentation itself.  

647
Jamil (Mrmalty) says it should be 10% or less of your total volume.  A little bit probably depends on the style of beer you are brewing.  Probably less for a pilsner ( I would decant like you mentioned).  You can probably go a little over the 10% with a RIS or barleywine.  This issue is the flavor impact from the starter wort.  I think you will be fine, especially if you pitched at high krausen or around that time.  RDWHAHB! :D

648
Beer Recipes / Re: Scottish Ale
« on: August 04, 2011, 08:06:53 AM »
IMO the style is about the base malt and the yeast. Simple grain bills as well. (three malt max) I do think you have to have 'some' crystal in there but not a lot. A sprinkle of RB would be fine to get the color right. Mashing at 158 and under attenuating seems to defeat the idea of eliminating the sweetness.

I don't think I ever mentioned the word "sweetness"  There you go putting words in my mouth (or fingers) ;D.  It is a common misconception that high mash temps and underattenuation will create "sweetness".  The reason you mash high is to create long chain dextrins which lead to mouth feel and chewiness.  Maltiness is often confused as sweetness.  Melanoidin, biscuit, toasty, etc. is along the lines of being malty.  The reason for using WLP001 and slightly underattenuate is to leave some of the dextrins and prevent the beer from being thin.  Just because the beer may be underattenuated does not mean it will be sweet.  Considering Cal Ale yeast can easily attenuate to 80%, by underpitching and keeping the ferment cool, it may only attenuate to 70-75%, which can still give a dry perception.  Which is right in line with the specs given for WLP028 scottish ale yeast attenuation percentage of 70-75%.  Maybe saying "underattenuate" was a poor choice of words, the goal is lower the attenuation percentage.

Lots of things besides underattenuation can give the perception of "sweetness."  Alcohols, fermentation esters, crystal malts, and even some hop varietals.  I have had plenty of Belgian beers and IPAs that I know are bone dry, but give the perception of sweetness because of the factors I previously mentioned.  I also know for a fact that Lagunitas mashes their IPA at 160F and there is no apparent sweetness in that beer.  Having brewed Jamil's recipe more than once and based on his success in competition with that beer, I would definitely say the recipe does not create a sweet beer.

In terms of a standard Scottish ale recipes there is more than one way to skin a cat.  The one thing I would say is DO NOT use peat malt!

649
Beer Recipes / Re: Scottish Ale
« on: August 03, 2011, 10:55:37 AM »
Jamil Zainasheff has a pretty good 60 Schilling recipe in Brewing Classic Styles that attemps to achieve the malt complexity through several specialty grains.  He has garnered a lot of awards with this recipe.  I have brewed the 80 version a couple of times with heather with good results.  Basically the amount of specialty grains stays the same and you adjust your base grain to achieve your desired OG. Mash warm, 158F witha a 90 minute boil.  One interesting technique Jamil uses is to pitch one fresh vial of WLP001 and ferment cool in the low 60's F to get a clean, slightly underattenuated fermentation characteristic to the beer.

Here is a link to the recipe if you don't have BCS
http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/Jamil/JamilsScottish60.htm

Hope this helps, good luck!

650
I plan on brewing on old ale with D2 from Dark Candi Inc. in place of treacle.  It sounds good on paper :P

651
Ingredients / Re: Coriander question
« on: July 27, 2011, 02:37:02 PM »
Charlie P. wrote something once about coriander limiting the amount of staling from oxidation.  I don't remember that he did any experiments, just observations about the longevity of his beers with the spice added.

I thought it was cinnamon added to the mash to prevent staling from oxidation, if I am not mistaken? 

652
Homegrown hops are best used for late hop additions of flavor and aroma since alpha acids are not known, unless you want to spend a few bucks to send them to a lab.  Since IBU contributions are minimal this is generally the best route to use for homegrown hops.  Use the hops with the known AA% for your 60 minute bittering addition.

653
Zymurgy / Re: Pilsner Urquell triple decoction
« on: July 13, 2011, 12:28:34 PM »

I got the feeling 2206 was temperamental from Designing Great Beers.  Although it isn't called out by name and manufacturer, I interpreted it as the yeast we were using, 2206.  We took extra care to cool the starter and pitch at near fermentation temperature (wort was chilled to the same fermentation temp. as the starter).


I wouldn't call Wyeast 2206 tempermental.  It is the only lager strain I just and it produces very clean, consistent results  and clear beer everytime with 74-78% attenuation no matter the beer.  I set the fermenter at 48-50F for 3-4 weeks and then go straight into lagering.  I have never had this yeast kick off sulfur or diacetyl.  Maybe a little green apple/acetaldehyde when it is young, but that typically goes away quickly. 

654
Brewing a Vienna lager and then splitting a 10 gallon batch of bitter into 5 gallons of ordinary bitter with EKGs and 5 gallons of west coast bitter/San Diego session ale with PNW hops.

655
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast
« on: June 28, 2011, 07:18:23 PM »
AB is my all-time favorite beer and I look forward to having it fresh at the brewery next week.  Only had it in the bombers, can't wait to have it on draft!

656
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast
« on: June 27, 2011, 08:32:18 PM »
I dunno, it seems to me that the characteristics of this yeast are closer to an English strain of yeast than Chico.  Especially with the flocculation being medium to high.  That is why I was thinking Stone because WLP007 is like WLP001 and WLP002 had a child on Ritalin.  It generally attenuates out to 80% in 3 days, ferments in the high 60's, and flocs out like a brick in the fermenter, which it sounds like WLP090 does as well.

657
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast
« on: June 27, 2011, 08:14:48 PM »
What are the odds that this is a local propietary strain, i.e. Stone?
Stone is, or is very close to WLP007 (and certainly nowhere near WLP001, which this is supposed to be very close to). Some are saying it's Port, but I dunno if I buy that.

Fermentation temps are base on the size and shape of the fermermenter.  Commercial breweries can ferment warmer than homebrewers because of pressure on the yeast in the cone surpressing esters and fusels.  Not sure if it is Stone's yeast or not, just a theory.  I know White Labs propagates Stone's yeast.  Could be another local yeast, Port, Alesmith, etc. Ballast Point may be the logical option since that is how Chris White got started, now that I think about it. 

658
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast
« on: June 27, 2011, 06:56:38 PM »
What are the odds that this is a local propietary strain, i.e. Stone?

659
Ingredients / Re: Brett experience?
« on: June 27, 2011, 06:52:49 PM »
American or English Barleywine?  I might lay off or cut back on the dry hopping if you are planning to add cherries......

660
Ingredients / Re: Brett experience?
« on: June 27, 2011, 02:10:48 PM »
I would transfer off of your primary yeast cake prior to adding the Brett. of your choice. I think I saw something where Vinnie of Russian River said Brett. can go down to 1.020-1.010 fairly quickly, but takes months to go from 1.010 to 1.000ish.  So let the primary fermentation finish out and with a Barleywine this can easily take a month. Then transfer to secondary and add cherries/Brett..  Then when finished bottle or keg.  Just make sure fermentation is complete with the Brett. prior to bottling or you will have bottle bombs on hand!

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