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Messages - hoser

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Acetaldehyde post bottling
« on: February 01, 2011, 06:09:36 PM »
If it is acetylaldehyde, that should go away with time.  You may try warming up some bottles for a couple days at room temp and see if this helps it go away.

Per the BJCP exam site:

This compound has the taste and aroma of fresh-cut green apples, and has also been compared to grass, green leaves and latex paint. It is normally reduced to ethanol by yeast during the secondary fermentation, but oxidation of the finished beer may reverse this process, converting ethanol to acetaldehyde. Elevated levels are generally present in green beer or if the beer is prematurely removed from the yeast. It can also be a product of bacterial spoilage by Zymomonas or Acetobacter. Background levels of acetaldehyde can be tasted in Budweiser due to the use of beechwood chips to drop the yeast before it can be reduced to ethanol.
This can also be the result of inadequate wort oxygenation, though the resultant yeast byproducts are normally metabolic intermediates they can remain after fermentation in some cases.

This compound is responsible for an artificial butter, butterscotch or toffee-like aroma and taste. At low levels, it may also produce a slickness on the palate. A significant number of tasters cannot perceive diacetyl at any concentration, so every judge should be aware of his or her limitations. Diacetyl is a fermentation by-product which is normally absorbed by the yeast and reduced to more innocuous diols. High levels can result from prematurely separating the beer from the yeast or by exposure to oxygen during the fermentation. Low FAN levels or mutation may also inhibit the ability of yeast to reduce diacetyl. Note that high fermentation temperatures promote both the formation and elimination of diacetyl, but the latter is more effective. For that reason, lager breweries often employ a diacetyl rest, which involves holding the beer in the 60-65 °F range for a few days after racking to the conditioning tank. Diacetyl is also produced by lactic acid bacteria, notably Pediococcus damnosus. Low levels of diacetyl are permissible in nearly all ales, particularly those brewed in the United Kingdom, and even some lagers, notably Czech pilseners.
Though rarely used by homebrewers, kräusening is a technique that can be used to eliminate diacetyl in beer. The technique works because of the introduction of fresh yeast that is actively multiplying and is thus able to rapidly remove diacetyl.

Hope this helps.  Let us know how it turns out.

Wood/Casks / Re: Whiskey Barrel Beer
« on: February 01, 2011, 06:06:48 PM »
They have the ability to blend that we as small scale homebrewers may not.  Which can correct and compensate for the quicker absorption of oak tannins and oxygen.  I suppose if you are able to place 3 gallons in the oak barrel and save behind another 3 plus gallons of beer, blending is a possibility.

Wood/Casks / Re: Whiskey Barrel Beer
« on: February 01, 2011, 04:12:36 PM »
I know I am late posting to this subject, but I hope you did not order those barrels.  For a barrel that small you are better off using chip, cubes, or a combination of both to achieve your oak aged character.  Surface area is a HUGE deal.  Not only will you impart a large, tannic oaky flavor rapidly into your beer (especially if the barrel is unused).  But, you have a huge exposure to oxygen at a much faster rate in a 3 gallon barrel vs. a 59 gallon barrel.  I know the use of a barrel sounds exciting, but I wouldn't go below 15 gallons, and even then that is a fairly large surface area exposure of beer to oak and oxygen, not to mention the work that goes into prepping the barrel and keeping them clean.  I have been researching this extensively as I am looking into purchasing a barrel myself.  I would read Wild Brews or look into Also, I believe in the last year both BYO and Zymurgy had very good articles on oak aging beer.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Acetaldehyde post bottling
« on: February 01, 2011, 04:00:40 PM »
Does it taste like butter or green apples?  Diacetyl and acetaldehyde are two completely different things.  If neither flavor were there post ferment and prebottling, than you likely have a secondary infection, especially if it has a buttery flavor as that is not an off flavor typically produced by a saison yeast. Check another bottle or two to see if the off flavor is there.  It could be isolated to just that bottle

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: February 01, 2011, 10:27:35 AM »
Do it whatever way you're comfortable, as long as you like your beer ;)

Amen! ;D

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: February 01, 2011, 08:50:02 AM »
Yes, I agree with big beers like BDS, tripels, RIS and barleywines you can leave the beer on the yeast with no risk of autolysis or off flavors for over 3 weeks.  However, with smaller gravity beers with very few big flavors and alcohol to hide behind the risk of off flavors being perceived are far greater.  It takes less time for the yeast to ferment out a session beer and to clean up the fermentation byproducts than it would for a 1.100 beer.  If the beer has finished it's fermentation and has cleaned up it's byproducts I see no reason to leave it on the yeast cake.  I believe Dr. Bamforth stated for every 1 deg F above freezing there is a 10 fold increase the rate of beer stability decreasing.  Now, I am just quoting that from memory so the statement may not be 100% accurate, but the take home message is that the longer you keep your beer warm the faster it will breakdown and lose it's flavor stability.  I see no reason to leave a 1.054 beer on the yeast cake for 3+ weeks after it has finished out it's fermentation, especially if in typical Belgian fashion the beer was fermented warm.  I did a variation of the same beer 4 weeks ago, 1.054 to 1.008 in 7 days, crashed the yeast at day 10.  The beer was kegged and carbonated by day 14 and tasted fantastic last night.  Just my opinion :P

Ingredients / Re: Dry hops for a sticke alt
« on: January 31, 2011, 07:33:30 PM »
Spalt would be traditional, but any type of german hop would work.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: January 31, 2011, 05:50:46 PM »
If you are doing a Jamil beer, then you should know that he only does a secondary for fruit beers per his recipes.  Let the beer finish fermenting out  and cleaning up all of the fermentation byproducts (usually 10-14 days).  You will know the beer has reached terminal when the gravity doesn't change after a couple of days.  Do not base it on the airlock bubbling or an arbitrary set number of days.  Unless you are planning on dryhopping this beer, there is no need for a secondary.  Just transfer to your kegs or bottles and carbonate.

The reason Stan mentions secondaries in "Brew Like a Monk" is because most of the belgian beers he mentions are bottle conditioned and this can be thought of as a secondary vessel.

Beers like belgian pale ales are meant to be enjoyed fresh and when they are young.  Leaving your beer on a yeast cake for too long (3+ weeks) will lead to autolysis and meaty flavors.  Lower ABV beers will age much faster.

Commercial breweries transfer their beers over quickly due to the cone pressure and heat leading to much quicker autolysis than on a home scale.  Also, time and space are money in a commercial brewery and they are trying to move product as fast as possible.

So, my recommendation is that when the beer reaches terminal gravity let it sit for 2-3 days to clean up the fermentation byproducts.  Then transfer to your serving vessel (keg or bottle), carbonate, and enjoy!


Ingredients / Re: Biofine Clear
« on: January 29, 2011, 05:38:17 PM »
I don't have any personal experience using the stuff.  I have been thinking about it though.  Here is a good thread to get you pointed in the right direction.  Pay attention to the stuff by Colin Kaminski.  He is an engineer that used to work at Morebeer before leaving to brew beer at Downtown Joe's in Napa.


Classifieds / Re: For Sale, two pin connect cornies, cheap.
« on: January 27, 2011, 10:15:14 AM »
I live in Lincoln, NE.  But right now Sean has dibbs. 


Classifieds / Re: For Sale, two pin connect cornies, cheap.
« on: January 25, 2011, 02:28:20 PM »
If Seanhaley and Tom don't want the kegs Oscarvan, I will certainly take them.  That way I can designate them as my sour kegs, since I looking at starting to do sours and it well be a good way for me to keep them seperate from my ball lock kegs.  Keep me posted.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I've lost my marbles...
« on: January 12, 2011, 01:50:47 PM »
Try looking in the toy section at Wal Mart.  That is where I have found mine.

Equipment and Software / Re: Hop Pellets clogging fermenter dip tube
« on: January 06, 2011, 09:19:41 AM »
I too ferment in a 10 gallon keg and dry hop with loose pellets.  This is the solution I came up with.

I just place it on the end of my dip tube before I sanitize and fill my keg.  It is a little bit of a trick to hold it onto the tube as you insert it into the keg, because it will fall off occasionally.  Once it is in place you are good to go.  I have a dip tube that I have cut off the last inch and one that is normal length.  With the sure screen or similar screen I have never had an issure with the out tube clogging with pellent or dry hops in any amount or length of tubing.  It may not be of help in your present situation, but I would definitely do this for future batches.  You could certainly attach the sure screen to a racking cane to get your latest batch out of the fermenter, although I don't think it works as well.  


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: cocoa nibs vs. powder
« on: November 29, 2010, 08:39:34 PM »
Always go nibs.  You get a way better chocolate flavor.  I believe their is a discussion on how to use them on the Maltose Falcons website?  I have found that if you bake them for 10-15 minutes at 350F it really brings out that chocolate flavor.  I don't ever use the powder.  Only the nibs. 


Ingredients / Re: Jasmine and Green Tea
« on: September 27, 2010, 10:31:25 AM »
Secondary or at racking time would be my choice.

Primarily the hops are my concern. I'm presuming you'll want citrus types such as Amarillo or maybe even Sorachi Ace?
I was thinking of using either citra/amarillo and sorachi ace,14g/5gal at 10min and knockout.
I probably will layer the jasmine and green tea by late WP additions and dry hopping.  Just not sure on the amounts and when.

Check the ph of hot green tea and if it's in the realm for a mash. If it's okay try it as your brewing liquor. Adjust the ph if slightly off.  Some green teas can have a delicate flavor. Others stronger.  I call it "seaweedy."  Might as well eat a sheet of Nori.

Another idea would be to make a couple of pots of green tea, reduce it all down to a pint to concentrate the flavor. If it tastes good use that with your priming sugar, or with out if you force carbonate.

I like your ideas Steve, my one concern is that boiling tea, like coffee, is not recommended because it extracts too many tannins.  That being said, mash hopping and first wort hopping, are a similar concept and the opposite of expected result happens would great success.  Boiling it down and reducing it I think may be a bad idea as it would concentrate these tannins.  Could one make an extract with vodka and still retain the aromatics of the green tea and jasmine?  Thanks for all the help guys!


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