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Messages - hoser

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751
All Grain Brewing / Re: Vienna Lager water profile...
« on: February 04, 2011, 02:24:08 PM »
Kai,
Thanks for the tips!  I am a faithful follower of your blog. I love your evidenced based brewing.  Allright, enough of the love fest ;D  I have actually performed your procedure for my local water and did send it off to Ward labs as well as my tap water and some R/O so I knew my actual water values.  I went back and looked at the results and it did work.  It took my Ca+ from 61 to 39ppm, HCO3 from 190 to 59, and CaCO3 from 161 to 156.  So, it made a difference in my bicarbonate.  I am sure I made some errors along the ways..  My chemistry is a little rusty from my pre-med days.  I do have a GH/KH test per your blog as well, so maybe I will do that test this weekend and match it against the slaked lime test I did earlier.

Martin,
I can't wait to see how you calculated the post boil numbers and how those stack up against my slaked lime experiment.

Thanks again guys!

752
All Grain Brewing / Re: Vienna Lager water profile...
« on: February 04, 2011, 08:35:04 AM »
Martin,
How did you calculate the post boiled numbers for the Vienna water?  This has been a hot topic of converstation with our LHBC in Lincoln, Ne., recently.  We are considering preboiling some water off and sending it to ward labs, but if there is an easy (easy being a relative term ;D) way to calculate this I would love to know.  Thanks.  And I agree with the topic about Vienna.  Daniels and Fix's info seems to agree and I have been diluting my water with R/O water when I brew my vienna and the vienna flavor is fantastic!

753
Ingredients / Re: When to add Coconut and what type???
« on: February 03, 2011, 11:49:40 AM »
I toast the coconut and add it to the secondary.  Shredded or flaked will work just fine.  I have read Maui brewing adds it in the mash, boil, and secondary.  But, I can't get them to confirm this.  I have heard of people using coconut extract with good success as well.  Use the organic stuff that is free of preservatives.  You can usually find this in the organic section of your local market or some place like Whole Foods.

I would not use coconut milk as this can get rancid.

As for the myth that coconut affects heard retention due to oils, I can state this as false!   If anything, this may help?  I have made my award winning coconut porter 3 times with over 2lbs/10gallons and the head retention that I get on my beers is only exceeded by IPAs and some Belgians.  So, add the coconut without fear of losing head retention.

754
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Acetaldehyde post bottling
« on: February 01, 2011, 06:09:36 PM »
If it is acetylaldehyde, that should go away with time.  You may try warming up some bottles for a couple days at room temp and see if this helps it go away.

Per the BJCP exam site:

Acetaldehyde
This compound has the taste and aroma of fresh-cut green apples, and has also been compared to grass, green leaves and latex paint. It is normally reduced to ethanol by yeast during the secondary fermentation, but oxidation of the finished beer may reverse this process, converting ethanol to acetaldehyde. Elevated levels are generally present in green beer or if the beer is prematurely removed from the yeast. It can also be a product of bacterial spoilage by Zymomonas or Acetobacter. Background levels of acetaldehyde can be tasted in Budweiser due to the use of beechwood chips to drop the yeast before it can be reduced to ethanol.
This can also be the result of inadequate wort oxygenation, though the resultant yeast byproducts are normally metabolic intermediates they can remain after fermentation in some cases.

Diacetyl
This compound is responsible for an artificial butter, butterscotch or toffee-like aroma and taste. At low levels, it may also produce a slickness on the palate. A significant number of tasters cannot perceive diacetyl at any concentration, so every judge should be aware of his or her limitations. Diacetyl is a fermentation by-product which is normally absorbed by the yeast and reduced to more innocuous diols. High levels can result from prematurely separating the beer from the yeast or by exposure to oxygen during the fermentation. Low FAN levels or mutation may also inhibit the ability of yeast to reduce diacetyl. Note that high fermentation temperatures promote both the formation and elimination of diacetyl, but the latter is more effective. For that reason, lager breweries often employ a diacetyl rest, which involves holding the beer in the 60-65 °F range for a few days after racking to the conditioning tank. Diacetyl is also produced by lactic acid bacteria, notably Pediococcus damnosus. Low levels of diacetyl are permissible in nearly all ales, particularly those brewed in the United Kingdom, and even some lagers, notably Czech pilseners.
Though rarely used by homebrewers, kräusening is a technique that can be used to eliminate diacetyl in beer. The technique works because of the introduction of fresh yeast that is actively multiplying and is thus able to rapidly remove diacetyl.

Hope this helps.  Let us know how it turns out.

755
Wood/Casks / Re: Whiskey Barrel Beer
« on: February 01, 2011, 06:06:48 PM »
They have the ability to blend that we as small scale homebrewers may not.  Which can correct and compensate for the quicker absorption of oak tannins and oxygen.  I suppose if you are able to place 3 gallons in the oak barrel and save behind another 3 plus gallons of beer, blending is a possibility.

756
Wood/Casks / Re: Whiskey Barrel Beer
« on: February 01, 2011, 04:12:36 PM »
I know I am late posting to this subject, but I hope you did not order those barrels.  For a barrel that small you are better off using chip, cubes, or a combination of both to achieve your oak aged character.  Surface area is a HUGE deal.  Not only will you impart a large, tannic oaky flavor rapidly into your beer (especially if the barrel is unused).  But, you have a huge exposure to oxygen at a much faster rate in a 3 gallon barrel vs. a 59 gallon barrel.  I know the use of a barrel sounds exciting, but I wouldn't go below 15 gallons, and even then that is a fairly large surface area exposure of beer to oak and oxygen, not to mention the work that goes into prepping the barrel and keeping them clean.  I have been researching this extensively as I am looking into purchasing a barrel myself.  I would read Wild Brews or look into http://www.themadfermentationist.com/. Also, I believe in the last year both BYO and Zymurgy had very good articles on oak aging beer.

757
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Acetaldehyde post bottling
« on: February 01, 2011, 04:00:40 PM »
Does it taste like butter or green apples?  Diacetyl and acetaldehyde are two completely different things.  If neither flavor were there post ferment and prebottling, than you likely have a secondary infection, especially if it has a buttery flavor as that is not an off flavor typically produced by a saison yeast. Check another bottle or two to see if the off flavor is there.  It could be isolated to just that bottle

758
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: February 01, 2011, 10:27:35 AM »
Do it whatever way you're comfortable, as long as you like your beer ;)

Amen! ;D

759
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: February 01, 2011, 08:50:02 AM »
Yes, I agree with big beers like BDS, tripels, RIS and barleywines you can leave the beer on the yeast with no risk of autolysis or off flavors for over 3 weeks.  However, with smaller gravity beers with very few big flavors and alcohol to hide behind the risk of off flavors being perceived are far greater.  It takes less time for the yeast to ferment out a session beer and to clean up the fermentation byproducts than it would for a 1.100 beer.  If the beer has finished it's fermentation and has cleaned up it's byproducts I see no reason to leave it on the yeast cake.  I believe Dr. Bamforth stated for every 1 deg F above freezing there is a 10 fold increase the rate of beer stability decreasing.  Now, I am just quoting that from memory so the statement may not be 100% accurate, but the take home message is that the longer you keep your beer warm the faster it will breakdown and lose it's flavor stability.  I see no reason to leave a 1.054 beer on the yeast cake for 3+ weeks after it has finished out it's fermentation, especially if in typical Belgian fashion the beer was fermented warm.  I did a variation of the same beer 4 weeks ago, 1.054 to 1.008 in 7 days, crashed the yeast at day 10.  The beer was kegged and carbonated by day 14 and tasted fantastic last night.  Just my opinion :P

760
Ingredients / Re: Dry hops for a sticke alt
« on: January 31, 2011, 07:33:30 PM »
Spalt would be traditional, but any type of german hop would work.

761
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation schedule for Belgian Pale
« on: January 31, 2011, 05:50:46 PM »
If you are doing a Jamil beer, then you should know that he only does a secondary for fruit beers per his recipes.  Let the beer finish fermenting out  and cleaning up all of the fermentation byproducts (usually 10-14 days).  You will know the beer has reached terminal when the gravity doesn't change after a couple of days.  Do not base it on the airlock bubbling or an arbitrary set number of days.  Unless you are planning on dryhopping this beer, there is no need for a secondary.  Just transfer to your kegs or bottles and carbonate.

The reason Stan mentions secondaries in "Brew Like a Monk" is because most of the belgian beers he mentions are bottle conditioned and this can be thought of as a secondary vessel.

Beers like belgian pale ales are meant to be enjoyed fresh and when they are young.  Leaving your beer on a yeast cake for too long (3+ weeks) will lead to autolysis and meaty flavors.  Lower ABV beers will age much faster.

Commercial breweries transfer their beers over quickly due to the cone pressure and heat leading to much quicker autolysis than on a home scale.  Also, time and space are money in a commercial brewery and they are trying to move product as fast as possible.

So, my recommendation is that when the beer reaches terminal gravity let it sit for 2-3 days to clean up the fermentation byproducts.  Then transfer to your serving vessel (keg or bottle), carbonate, and enjoy!

Hoser

762
Ingredients / Re: Biofine Clear
« on: January 29, 2011, 05:38:17 PM »
I don't have any personal experience using the stuff.  I have been thinking about it though.  Here is a good thread to get you pointed in the right direction.  Pay attention to the stuff by Colin Kaminski.  He is an engineer that used to work at Morebeer before leaving to brew beer at Downtown Joe's in Napa.

http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21765&hilit=biofine

Hoser

763
Classifieds / Re: For Sale, two pin connect cornies, cheap.
« on: January 27, 2011, 10:15:14 AM »
I live in Lincoln, NE.  But right now Sean has dibbs. 

Hoser

764
Classifieds / Re: For Sale, two pin connect cornies, cheap.
« on: January 25, 2011, 02:28:20 PM »
If Seanhaley and Tom don't want the kegs Oscarvan, I will certainly take them.  That way I can designate them as my sour kegs, since I looking at starting to do sours and it well be a good way for me to keep them seperate from my ball lock kegs.  Keep me posted.

Hoser

765
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I've lost my marbles...
« on: January 12, 2011, 01:50:47 PM »
Try looking in the toy section at Wal Mart.  That is where I have found mine.

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