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Messages - AmandaK

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16
Good write up Marshall. Makes me want to finally give this a go. Berliner Weisse is the only sour style I haven't brewed!

Something of note:
Quote
Since I started making sour beer a couple years ago, I’ve been amazed at the impact a seemingly small difference in pH makes.
I'm sure you know this - but don't forget that pH is measured on a logarithmic scale. A decrease of 1 means that it is 10x more acidic.

17
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quick turn around on BJCP Tasting Exam
« on: August 13, 2015, 07:55:45 AM »
That's really the target all the grading teams should aspire to.

How about just a "Thanks graders, ADs, and EDs!"?  ::)



OP- great score. Congrats! Do you think you'll take the written at some point?

18
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Second pour always less carbed
« on: August 12, 2015, 09:00:08 AM »
The first pint will always have a bit more head because the beer will warm in the line causing the beer to shed gas. Probably it's just that; the carbonation should remain the same due to the pressure and temperature of your set-up.

This is your answer. If your lines were chilled as well as your kegs, all of the beer would pour the same.

I'm not sure this is 100% accurate.  I serve from picnic taps that are entirely inside the fridge with my kegs.  The first pour is always different due to the beer that is in the lines.  I don't know if the beer in the lines loses carbonation or what exactly happens, but the best approach for me is to clear the lines (drink or dump) and then pour.  After the lines are clear I will get a consistent pour.

I don't pour a pint every day (even not for several days) so my experience may be different from yours if your taps are in regular use.

The reason that your first pour is different is that the beer in those lines are a higher temperature than the beer in your kegs. This is due to many reasons on different systems: vinyl lines insulating from the fridge/freezer air, the air around the lines actually being warmer (especially common in chest freezers but not uncommon in old fridges - cold air sinks & taps are usually higher than the keg), etc. Carbonation is temperature dependent. Carbonation will come out of solution at higher temperatures. Once you pull fresh beer (at the keg temp) into those lines, it takes time to rise in temperature, which is why the first pour can be foamy on many systems. Even a 5*F rise in temperature in the 'line beer' will cause foaming. Stick a thermometer in the beer that you dump - I'll bet that it isn't the same temp as the beer that you drink from the second pour.

Source: I have a fairly involved draft system at home. Long draw, rise in elevation, air cooled remote box, flow control faucets, barrier lines, etc, etc, etc. If there is a problem with a draft system, I bet that I've seen it in my own home. I've had a draft technician over to diagnose the multitude of issues this thing has - it's safe to say that I've learned a lot in the past year.

19
I use a modified garden sprayer. I clean all of my lines at the same time reusing the BLC. I want to build a pond pump based recirculating system, but that is low priority right now.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=226497

We have this too. I keep it filled with BLC in the basement so when we blow a keg we just pump out the line with BLC. No sense in keeping another keg around just for "cleaning purposes".

20
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Second pour always less carbed
« on: August 12, 2015, 07:31:38 AM »
The first pint will always have a bit more head because the beer will warm in the line causing the beer to shed gas. Probably it's just that; the carbonation should remain the same due to the pressure and temperature of your set-up.

This is your answer. If your lines were chilled as well as your kegs, all of the beer would pour the same.

21
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Alright guys need help
« on: August 12, 2015, 07:29:49 AM »
I don't lift anything except grain during the brew day.

Get a pump or two.

22
The Pub / Re: Retirement
« on: August 11, 2015, 08:12:14 AM »
...compared Maryland real estate, Indiana real estate is a bargain... 

Welcome to the midwest!  8) Sh*t is super cheap here. For what we have in KC, we would pay 500-600% more in Denver/East Coast/etc. One of my friends visited from Denver and was pretty appealed at the low price of it all.

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting Smegma out of Better Bottles
« on: August 10, 2015, 04:45:49 AM »
Gross.

I always though smegma was just generic for gunk or grime.

Aaaaannnd now you know why the rest of us are cringing.

I'm fairly sure the only penis I've had in beer is raccoon penis.

Was that Al's coon pecker beer??

24
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Commercial Canned Starter Wort
« on: August 06, 2015, 09:48:44 AM »
I'm much too lazy to boil a starter but I can surely can starter wort!

I'm too lazy for even that… I just collect the tail runnings from high-gravity beers and store them in a gallon water jug in the freezer.
Yeah, canning would be sterilizing and you can store at room temp, but I would think that one could boil up a large batch of starter wort and freeze in sanitized quart food containers.  Pull one or two out of the freezer when needed and thaw out in the microwave.

The freezer is full of meat and frozen fruit. :) I just started doing this while I'm canning other food stuffs.

25
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Commercial Canned Starter Wort
« on: August 06, 2015, 04:43:40 AM »
It's too early to do the math, but I'm pretty sure you could buy a pressure canner and make your own for cheaper. At least that's what we've been doing - I'm much too lazy to boil a starter but I can surely can starter wort!

26
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How to prep for a competition
« on: August 04, 2015, 03:55:35 PM »
Help receive and sort any competition and you will quickly learn how NOT to ship. Thanks for the kind words folk!
Hahahahaha.

What, packaging tape around the entire bottle holding on the label, more packaging tape around the bubble wrap on each and every bottle, and more packaging tape around the ENTIRE black trash bag that's around all of the bottles isn't your idea of "good packaging"?? :)

27
I'm about to do a side by side between WLP029 and WY2565, only because I'll have our only large conical tied up with a Festbier and I want to brew another 10g of beer.

I've heard about the differences online but I really just want to see which one I like on my own. I think I may have husband do a triangle test on me while filling out score sheets to finally see which yeast does what for myself. Citizen science, yeah?  8)

28
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: No head retention in lagers
« on: July 31, 2015, 05:10:56 AM »
I see this as well. My Ales have no problems with head but my lagers seem to drop the head quickly and have little lacing. I've tried Carapils and Carafoam but it doesn't seem to help. Next on my list is raising the mash PH a bit to 5.5-5.6 and lowering PH in the kettle down to 5.2-5.3 similar to what rabeb does.
This Pilsner had a mash pH of 5.3. Many of my beers are done in the 5.2-5.4 range.



It is not likely the mash pH being too low, unless the similar colored ales have the same problem. Denny's article has some good hints/tips.

29
Ingredients / Re: Best way to reduce Ph
« on: July 27, 2015, 11:08:29 AM »
Is this a newer technique? Do/did Koln brewers add saurmalt to their Kolsch? According to Bruin water's adjustment summary, their water is way alkaline and needs the pH lowered. Unless i am interpreting wrong.
Posted in another thread, but if no one on this one saw it.

http://www.ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2008/SteveHolle_GermanBrewing.pdf

Good to see Steve referenced. :) He's a great resource to the KC area. We had him be part of a "lager panel" at one of our meetings last year. I wish I would have recorded it.

30
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear Beer!
« on: July 25, 2015, 09:46:24 AM »
I'm my worst critic. Luckily I've been getting better at brewing, so my own complaints are becoming less frequent.

I'm much the same !
Here here!! :D

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