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Messages - evandy

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16
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Mead lag time
« on: August 27, 2012, 06:24:14 PM »
Just 2 sachets of the US-05.  I didn't even rehydrate.  It's very confusing.

17
Beer Recipes / Re: First Recipe comments....
« on: August 26, 2012, 06:09:56 PM »
Yeah, I went back and checked a couple of the past recipes that I was basing this on... I'm not so worried about the amber/biscuit/chocolate malt, but the crystal does look too high.

We'll see how it turns out.  Hopefully not too bad.

18
Equipment and Software / Re: Reliability issue with Chest Freezer/Keezer
« on: August 26, 2012, 01:06:18 PM »
The other thing I haven't seen mentioned is that you are converting USED freezers.  I read somewhere (in support documentation for my deep-freeze I believe) that these things aren't really made to be warmed-up once they are down to freezing temps.  Apparently, a lot of them tend to start rusting inside the walls once they get some moisture in there.  Since that nearly always happens when they warm up, you can see the potential problem.

I haven't done any investigation myself, but it's something to consider, at any rate.

19
Beer Recipes / First Recipe comments....
« on: August 26, 2012, 11:15:24 AM »
I've just finished brewing my home-made recipe.  I've tweaked a few recipes in the past due to ingredient availability and such, but this is the first one I've come up with myself.  Any comments/Thoughts?  Since it's brewed, any changes will need to wait for next time, of course.

Note: This is the original recipe; I had to substitute Galena for the Galaxy hops due to availability.  I am calling this a hybrid English/American Brown ale.  I wanted something a little citrusy and hoppy, but to retain the fantastic malt character of an English Brown.

Rockin 2-Fast Brown
Amt    Name    Type    #    %/IBU
7 lbs    Golden Promise (Simpsons) (2.0 SRM)    Grain    1    53.8 %
3 lbs    Amber (Crisp) (27.5 SRM)    Grain    2    23.1 %
1 lbs    Biscuit Malt (23.0 SRM)    Grain    3    7.7 %
1 lbs    Crystal, Dark (Simpsons) (80.0 SRM)    Grain    4    7.7 %
8.0 oz    Chocolate Malt, Pale (200.0 SRM)    Grain    5    3.8 %
8.0 oz    Crystal, Extra Dark (Simpsons) (160.0 SRM)    Grain    6    3.8 %
0.50 oz    Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min    Hop    7    22.7 IBUs
0.50 oz    Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min    Hop    8    2.8 IBUs
0.50 oz    Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min    Hop    9    4.5 IBUs
0.50 oz    Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 1.0 min    Hop    10    2.3 IBUs
0.50 oz    Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min    Hop    11    3.8 IBUs

Yeast: Safale US-05

20
Just started two beverages:

MyFirstMead: 1.114 OG, Basswood honey, US-05 (no Lalvin 71B at the homebrew store).

"Rockin 2-Fast," a hybrid English/American Brown ale.
OG came out at 1.055.  The thought is to have an american hop character, backed up by some of the fantsatic Simpsons Crystal malt, and a nice bready note too.  This was a last-minute decision between fermenting with US-05, or some saved Thames Valley-2 in my fridge.  Ended up saving the TV-2 for my next batch of bitter, and tossed the US-05 into this one.

Amt    Name    Type    #    %/IBU
7 lbs    Golden Promise (Simpsons) (2.0 SRM)    Grain    1    53.8 %
3 lbs    Amber (Crisp) (27.5 SRM)    Grain    2    23.1 %
1 lbs    Biscuit Malt (23.0 SRM)    Grain    3    7.7 %
1 lbs    Crystal, Dark (Simpsons) (80.0 SRM)    Grain    4    7.7 %
8.0 oz    Chocolate Malt, Pale (200.0 SRM)    Grain    5    3.8 %
8.0 oz    Crystal, Extra Dark (Simpsons) (160.0 SRM)    Grain    6    3.8 %
0.50 oz    Galena [11.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min    Hop    7    22.7 IBUs
0.50 oz    Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min    Hop    8    2.8 IBUs
0.50 oz    Galena [14.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min    Hop    9    4.5 IBUs
0.50 oz    Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 1.0 min    Hop    10    2.3 IBUs
0.50 oz    Galena [14.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min    Hop    11    3.8 IBUs

21
Yeast and Fermentation / Mead lag time
« on: August 26, 2012, 08:45:13 AM »
All you mead makers… how long is typical for a mead to take to start showing signs of active fermentation after pitching?  I just started my first mead, and it started bubbling nicely in the airlock in about 45 minutes.  Needless to say, this was a LOT shorter than I was expecting.

OG: 1.115
Yeast: Safale US-05 (Brew store was out of Lalvin 71-B)
Temperature: 60-65F
1st batch of a staggered nutrient addition added.

I was a little sad to find that I couldn't get 71-B for my first mead... I've had some good meads from US-05, so hopefully this will come out all right.  I have a little Thames Valley-II hanging around in the fridge, and I almost pitched that instead.  It has a nice stone-fruit character, but I didn't think it would attenuate enough.

Thanks.

--Evan

22
The Pub / Re: Project Fedora
« on: May 19, 2012, 04:34:29 AM »
Sorry.  My hat is a custom-made grey derby.  Which is much more fun than a fedora!

I need to add a derby to my haberdashery.

You have your own hat store?  Wow.

23
The Pub / Re: Project Fedora
« on: May 17, 2012, 06:47:10 PM »
Sorry.  My hat is a custom-made grey derby.  Which is much more fun than a fedora!

24
The Pub / Project Fedora
« on: May 17, 2012, 04:22:54 PM »
Well, since I saw a Diablo 3 thread out there, I figured I would throw in a plug for Project Fedora.

Calling all Adventure Gamers out there:  Project Fedora (texmurphy.com) is now live!  The Tex Murphy games were sci-fi/detective adventure games, and left with a huge cliffhanger about 15 years ago.  If you like adventure games, you should check out the old games over at gog.com.  If you like Tex, then you should consider offering a bit over on kickstarter to help fund the reboot of the series.

If you want names... Chris Jones (co-founder of Access SW), and Aaron Connors (sr. developer at EA) are the founders of Tex.  They've cast people like James Earl Jones in their games, and they do a great job.

Thanks for listening to the plug, all.

25
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Store In Evanston IL
« on: April 03, 2012, 07:15:10 PM »
I might be worried about how close Evanston is to Libertyville.  There's a great homebrew store up there called Perfect Brewing.  They're about a minute off of I-94, and only a few exits up from Evanston/Skokie.  That said, if you are closer to the lake and Northwestern, you should have a good basis for customers.

I would think about establishing and/or pairing up with a local homebrew club, and teaching a bunch of the students how to brew on a semi-regular basis if you go with Evanston.

You should give PB a try, regardless.  They share space with a local woodworker, and often have carvings and furniture for sale in the same showroom as all the brewing ingredients.

26
All Grain Brewing / Re: Specific gravity issue...Dump or Keep?
« on: March 25, 2012, 07:27:04 PM »
It seems from all the feed back the recipe itself was not all to good.

The recipe is fine. It the method of wort extraction that need to be tweaked.

Yes.  And, despite what someone else said, 45 minutes should be plenty for a mash with modern grains.

1) Were the grains just "cracked" or actually milled?  If you remember what they looked like, was there a lot of dust and little pieces of grain, or did you have mostly whole kernels that were completely intact without much little stuff?  Ideally, you should have hulls that are mostly intact, and the hard pieces of grain should be in 3-5 little pieces with a decent amount of "flour."

2) Based on what you said, there should still have been a LOT of sugar left in your grains.  You say you only boiled 3 gallons of wort; is this because of the size of you pot?  If so, can you fit 2 pots on your stove and start off with ~ 6 gallons of wort?  If so, then you should do:
  - Mash like you just did.  If possible, add about 3.5 gal of water to your grain to start.
  - Drain off the water, split between the 2 pots
  - add 3 more gallons, mix well, and drain off (you should get the whole 3 gallons back this time)
  - Now, mix both pots well, and check your gravity (this is pre-boil)  You should be doing much better.

This process is called batch sparging (you drain 100% of the water off the grains multiple times).  If you can't fit the 3.5 gallons of water in your lauter tun, then you can use the same process, but mix and drain off more than 2 times.  Just split each collection between your two pots.

If you can NOT boil 2 pots (or don't have them), then you will need to collect a lot of much stronger wort (so that you can dilute it after the boil).  Either start off with a lot more grain, or add some malt extract to make up your pre-boil gravity.  Let us know more about your situation and we can help more.

27
Equipment and Software / Re: BetterBottle transport
« on: March 22, 2012, 05:17:51 PM »
One of the nice things about better bottles, is that they are OK to pick up by the neck when full; unlike glass carboys.

Mine usually come clean with a soak in PBW.  If they don't, then I put a washcloth in there with the last 1/2c of PBW or so, cap it, and swirl the rag all around the inside.

Sparkling clean, and easy.

28
Beer Recipes / Re: Another irish red
« on: February 27, 2012, 09:52:32 AM »
Thanks for the support and feedback.  I appreciate it, in fact all the feedback I've recieved on this forum has been very useful.  Unfortunately I constantly over analyze my beers and the process that goes into making them.  I guess it comes from being a real scientist, but some of it comes from wanting to know I'm giving my friends and relatives a quality beer, that I did the best possible job brewing it.

You think over-analyzing is an issue as a scientist?  I'm an engineer.  Trust me, at /LEAST/ as bad.  Probably worse. 

Enjoy.

29
Beer Recipes / Re: Another irish red
« on: February 27, 2012, 08:40:22 AM »
Thanks.  Yea, the LME was a carryover from another recipe.  I had some extra Munich LME which I was planning on using, but I'm afraid that would be too much malty base with the Crystal, Chocolate and roasted barley.  I can use DME, and actually I typically do.  I cut the crystal down to 6oz (I will see if I can get some british), and I cut out the 15 min EKG addition and just made it Willamette.

I think you'll like the British Crystal, if you can get it.  Beyond that, do what you like... you asked for thoughts, so I put some out there.

Remember: It's just beer.  Whatever you brew will be better than most store-bought stuff.  Even if it's "out of style" it can be delicious.  Don't over-analyze.

30
Equipment and Software / Re: DIY pumps
« on: February 27, 2012, 06:24:31 AM »
Well, that's good, thanks for finding that.  Still, these specs can cause some problems:

Specific Gravity to 1.1
Fluid Temperature to 200 Degrees F
Ambient Air Temperature to 77 Degrees F

Even here in the PNW it gets over 77 sometimes.  And you might want to pump liquid hotter than 200 or thicker than 1.100 SG.

Personally, I had the same concern over the 200F fluid temperature, but given how short a time anything hotter than that is in the pump, it doesn't seem to be a huge issue.  There are a bunch of 3-MD-HC users on homebrewtalk, and they also haven't reported a problem so far.

The air temp can be taken care of with a fan, if needed, but if you are in texas or something that might be more of an issue as an everyday thing.

SG is definitely not a problem... your flow rate would just drop down a little bit.  Not a huge deal, given that it's 750GPH (12.5GPM).

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