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Messages - HoosierBrew

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1
The Pub / Re: Posting Pictures
« on: Today at 06:20:56 AM »
I email the pic to my self, download the emailed pic to my laptop, then upload it from 'downloads' into Photobucket. No physical connection.

2
Don't bother with transferring to a secondary - it's dated thinking that just isn't necessary for most beers, including this one. Transferring a beer too soon can cause fermentation to not finish properly and cause off flavors/aromas. Take a gravity reading now to see where you're at. The way to verify that fermentation is done is to get identical gravity readings over consecutive days. 3 identical readings would be good. Good luck !

3
Beer Recipes / Re: new Pale Ale
« on: April 17, 2015, 04:50:08 PM »
Might be good to account for that in Bru'nwater. Like giving Rahr 2 row a 5L instead of a 2L, to account for the extra acidity.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: thin beer
« on: April 17, 2015, 04:14:44 PM »
My first beers had so much body they had to be beaten into the glass with a night stick,

OMG that's funny. I resemble that, Jim. I'm pretty sure a few of my first beers could be poured on pancakes if I got to try them now.   ;D

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC 2015 First Round Results
« on: April 17, 2015, 03:28:36 PM »
Nice work, Frenchy !

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Thermapen Sale
« on: April 17, 2015, 02:59:04 PM »
You don't have to burn a lot of bucks to get great instruments. The Thermapen manufacturer makes the following thermometers that have virtually the same spec and they cost WAY less. I use both of these:

http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt301wa.html
http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt600c.html

Nice recommendation. Thanks, Martin!

+1 to the RT600C - I have one and love it. So does my wallet.

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: April 17, 2015, 12:40:05 PM »
Nice looking Belgian. Great style. I brew one or two blonds a year.

8

Maybe use all 5 of those hops.  Chinook for bittering.  Columbus at 30 min and dry hop.  The other three at 5 min and 0 min plus a bit more for dry hop, plus a 45 min hop stand.  I haven't done so but it sounds intriguing.  I know lots of folks warn about +3 hops, but depending on the combo/amounts used I like the complexity of 5-hop IPAs.

+1.  I like blending several hops for IPA, most times. Of course not every combo works, but that doesn't mean the practice is bad.  Personally, I'd bitter with Chinook too, blend the rest (I've blended all these) and use 8 oz of the blend for a 40 minute stand @ 175F - No other hops in boil than the 60 minute. Then dry hop with 5-6 more oz of the mixture for 5 days, room temp.

That's 8 and 6 ounces for 5 gallons?   :o Pity, I'm a stupid Belgian.

Well, personal taste should always come in.  I know the 8 oz seems high, but there are many IPA recipes that have 15, 10, 5, and 0 minute additions of 2 oz each, ie., 8 oz total. I'm just adding them all in the whirlpool. And dry hopping totals of 4-6 oz aren't uncommon for AIPA nowadays. If it seems too much to you, definitely back off some.


EDIT  -   Here's what I left out - if you add all of your bittering hops in the kettle and the late hops to whirlpool (like I do for hoppy beers), you need to wait until you cool to 180F or under to add the whirlpool hops. Two reasons :  1/ The volatile oils that give you great hop flavor and aroma get driven off at hotter temps. Cooler temps preserve more of this magic.   2/ You extract more bitterness above 180F. So if you account for all of your bitterness in the kettle, you will pick up extra bitterness and lose hop flavor/aroma above 180F. Lose-lose. However, for other styles ,I will add all hops PERIOD at ~ 200F (cream ale is one), and for many styles no whirlpool hopping at all. It all depends on what you're after.

9

Maybe use all 5 of those hops.  Chinook for bittering.  Columbus at 30 min and dry hop.  The other three at 5 min and 0 min plus a bit more for dry hop, plus a 45 min hop stand.  I haven't done so but it sounds intriguing.  I know lots of folks warn about +3 hops, but depending on the combo/amounts used I like the complexity of 5-hop IPAs.

+1.  I like blending several hops for IPA, most times. Of course not every combo works, but that doesn't mean the practice is bad.  Personally, I'd bitter with Chinook too, blend the rest (I've blended all these) and use 8 oz of the blend for a 40 minute stand @ 175F - No other hops in boil than the 60 minute. Then dry hop with 5-6 more oz of the mixture for 5 days, room temp.

10
Beer Recipes / Re: What should I brew?
« on: April 17, 2015, 10:42:37 AM »
Why not an American Amber Ale?  Base of 2-row mixed with a few pounds of munich and maybe 1# C60?  Load it up with your American C-hops and US-05 and you are good to go (maybe dry hop a bit too?)!! 8)

+1.  And OP has plenty of big strong IPA hops, too -  maybe 95% 2 row, 5% C60, lots of hops, with some gypsum, S05.  And btw, the milled grain in a sealed container will last a few months.

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First Contest Entry
« on: April 17, 2015, 10:06:37 AM »
Somebody around here posted a method that is cheap and works well. Get a bottling wand and remove the spring tip. The tube fits perfectly into a picnic tap, giving you a bottom filler with a valve. If you push your beer with very low pressure (say 2psi) you should get very little foaming and an easy fill.
And if you put a small rubber stopper on the plastic wand, the size that fits into your bottle opening, then you can control the flow of beer by burping the stopper.

Yep, I used that setup for awhile before breaking down and getting a Beer Gun. Worked pretty well. It probably lost a little more carbing than a Beer Gun, but I just carbed the beer up a little more to account for it.

12
Pimp My System / Re: Motorized Mill & Cabinet
« on: April 17, 2015, 09:41:21 AM »
Looks really sharp. Nice build !

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: thin beer
« on: April 17, 2015, 09:35:44 AM »
same reason why a low FG saison made correctly can make people think they are drinking a higher FG beer. low FG isn't one for one equated with body perception and mouthfeel.

For sure. Yeast strain (3711 comes to mind for saison) and grist, too.  I still would think in identical recipes the 10 pt lower FG would seem thinner.

+1

Yeah, we'd all think that, but this experiment seems to indicate differently.  I look forward to trying it myself.

Me too.

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: thin beer
« on: April 17, 2015, 08:49:50 AM »
same reason why a low FG saison made correctly can make people think they are drinking a higher FG beer. low FG isn't one for one equated with body perception and mouthfeel.

For sure. Yeast strain (3711 comes to mind for saison) and grist, too.  I still would think in identical recipes the 10 pt lower FG would seem thinner.

15
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: thin beer
« on: April 17, 2015, 08:39:41 AM »
Wow, I hadn't heard of that one, Denny. I would think, if nothing else, that the FGs would've been more distinguishable from one another in the same recipe. Raises a lot of questions.

Yep.  I recently had a similar experience with my American mild recipe.  I think this needs to be looked into.

It makes me wonder about using carapils. I've never seen the need for it in so many recipes, but a lot of breweries do seem to use it still - maybe it is a way after all to have a beer finish at, say 1.006-1.008, be drinkable, but still have nice body. 

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