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Messages - HoosierBrew

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106
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:38:31 PM »
Thanks, man!

Damn you Jon!  Now I got to start wrapping my head around how I can integrate Lodo into my shi**y setup. Good to hear you had some good results. Beer looks amazing by the way!


Rob, FWIW my system is old school and I worked with it, though some upgrades are in the works at some point. Can be done pretty easily! Gonna try the yeast scavenging method on the water next time, though.

107
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:33:53 PM »
Hurlimann used to brew Samichlaus. That is a Malty beer.  :o


Understatement. :)  I just tried a 10 year old Samichlaus courtesy of the owner of Great Fermentations (LHBS). I've tried it many times, never @ 10 years. It was fantastic.

108
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:25:25 PM »
Boomshakalaka.


I really appreciate you fielding the long list of questions!  Next it gets real - Munich Dunkel. I've brewed it enough to nitpick, too.

109
Ingredients / Re: Your favorite malt and hop of the year.
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:18:41 PM »
I had a beer made at Bell's with Chevallier malt from Crisp. The variety is about 200 years old. The beer was open fermented in the old Stroh's wooden vats. It was bready, like a really good baguette, with some walnut paste lightly spread on it. I loved it.
Good luck finding some of that. Crisp only contracts very limited acres. I wish I could find a bag of that.

There's the rub, finding any even if it is still being grown.
There are limited acres, so not much available. Crisp contacted Bell's, as John Mallett's Malt book had come out a little earlier. A Bell's employee I know said they got malt samples from everywhere after the book was published. Most were small samples, not enough to brew a batch with.



Wish I could've been there to sample that one. Sounds like it was a great beer.

110
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:14:17 PM »
Thanks, man!

111
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:00:04 PM »




My new Cleopatra APA, my first stab at low oxygen brewing, at 3 weeks. Yeah, the foam is killer. The only haze is from dry hopping. But there's a lot going on at once - I preboiled the water, used 50ppm SMB, but also (per the recently posted Bamforth paper) used a late addition of Brewtan (gallotannin) and PVPP (actually used the Brewbrite mixture of Polyclar and whirlfloc). So I undoubtedly broke the rules by changing multiple variables at once. Thing is, the beer is fantastic and there are justifications for all those changes. So I'm going forward with this as my MO.

 Interestingly, this is my house APA recipe, brewed it many times, and the color is slightly but noticeably lighter, giving more credence to the low oxygen brewers reported results of lighter colored beers. Aside from that, yes, the malt quality is very fresh and well defined. It has IT. As a footnote, the Cleopatra hops are very nice - first hops I've bought from Ted Hausotter. Citrusy, tropical/mango, slight pine, slight spiciness. Best APA I've ever made, period. I'm sold.

112
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: WHYM
« on: November 23, 2016, 10:07:56 AM »
Pretty soon, you'll be able to just walk into a store and buy beer that's already brewed and ready to drink.

What a time to be alive



:)

113
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: November 23, 2016, 09:24:25 AM »
While the dry do start out life as the liquid strain equivalents, they don't really exhibit the same properties. For instance 34/70 can throw lemon( I have never had 2124/830 do that), and none throw enough sulfur to help you post fermentation. Also interestingly they don't have the same attenuation or floccuation characteristics. I have gone though my fair share of 500g bricks of both of these yeast, but for flavor and post fermentation protection nothing beats the liquid strains IMO, especially when you go with low oxygen brewing techniques. The game changes then.


I agree that there are definite differences in fermentation characteristics/performance between dry and liquid. I much prefer liquid cultures myself.

114
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: WHYM
« on: November 23, 2016, 08:34:19 AM »
In case there is any doubt:

https://zx-ventures.com





Big surprise. Pretty sure NB will be selling it then.  ;)

115
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: November 23, 2016, 08:10:55 AM »
So 2124 is the same as 34/70 right?

Yup. Those beers sound good, too.

116
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: WHYM
« on: November 23, 2016, 07:32:11 AM »
Wow. I mean, wow. Yeah, that pretty much does skip the whole brewing process. It's not brewing, it's flavoring existing beer. "For the homebrewer who just can't handle extract brewing, try our product."

Each his own. I guess.

117
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:56:35 AM »
  I like 2206 for most Southern German lagers, but will use 830/2124 for Northern German Pils to hit the crisp finish that seems to go well in matching the style.


Same here. I like the 2206 tendency to drop out pretty easily, too.

118
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wort Aeration
« on: November 22, 2016, 12:39:16 PM »
I read in Denny's book that he uses a gas whip and a power drill to aearate the wort.

Anyone have good experience with this? How long should I whip it to incorporate a decent amount of O2?



I use a mix stir - I mix until the foam is at the top of the bucket. Same principle for carboys.

119
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Estimated FG Seems Odd
« on: November 22, 2016, 12:28:45 PM »
Yeah, looks like a pretty fermentable grist overall. Any problems with temp control this time? Flocculant English strains are prone to stalling if temp goes down during fermentation and benefit from raising temp after a few days to attenuate properly. Did you pitch the same amount of yeast as usual, I assume? Did you use a refractometer to measure FG? If so, there's a correction you need to use to get an accurate reading. Correct the reading for temp? Also, a 1.066 beer, while not huge, will generally finish higher than a 1.050 beer as well.

Finally, software estimates of attenuation and FG are utterly worthless. Your FG (and attenuation) depends on lots of factors - grist, mash temp, pH control, yeast health and quantity, etc. Though most of your beers finish ~ 1.012, lots of yeast/grist/mash temp combos will make beers that don't.

120
Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: November 22, 2016, 08:58:59 AM »
A quick question: How important do you think the mash addition is?

I brewed an IPA last Sunday and just did the boil addition.  My thinking was that it will help, but the beer won't be aged so why use double the amount?

Having not left out the mash addition, I can't say from experience.  But if Joe says to do it, I'd do it.  He's the expert.


Same here.

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