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Messages - HoosierBrew

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 6 Common Homebrew Myths
« on: August 10, 2016, 09:40:51 AM »
a better design would have been three treatments, one with extreme oxidation control (aka LODO), one with regular homebrewing practices, and one with the extreme whipping. Also, to minimize confounding factors, I would have avoided caramel malts, an estery yeast (WLP002) and a significant load of aroma hops. If I were to choose, a Helles with very low to no hop flavor or aroma will provide the researchers the best way to pick up a significant difference should there be one. And of course, do the testing with fresh and with aged beer.

This^   I agree that a redo of the experiment would be helpful and that these would be the best criteria IMO.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Aging/conditioning
« on: August 10, 2016, 07:03:42 AM »
Another 'it depends.'

I disagree on most porters and stouts, too. My porters and stouts are good at a month. Obviously imperial stout or porter is a different matter. But even a good RIS is good @ 3 months, better with time.

Hoppy American styles are best right away, period - like 2-4 weeks. Sometimes an extra week will benefit an AIPA with a big hop blend, to let the hop flavors meld. The clock is ticking on hop aroma/flavor.

Hefe and wit - as soon as you can carb it up. 2 weeks is great.

Big beers- personal preference. The alcohol obviously mellows with time, but I've had some dangerously good big beers that were fairly young. Drink some, put some back to cellar. 

Most other beers - depends on your ability to cold crash and your decision to fine/not fine. It's silly to follow somebody's guideline anyway. If it's clear enough to suit you and it tastes great, why waste a beer's peak flavor? Drink it up.

The Pub / Re: Need Your Vote - 2016 Beer Drinker of the Year
« on: August 10, 2016, 06:31:14 AM »
Another vote. Good luck, Mike!

All Grain Brewing / Re: 5gal igloo cooler
« on: August 09, 2016, 03:31:52 PM »
Welcome!  Depends on your mash thickness. Scroll down to "Can I Mash It?", enter your amount of grain and mash thickness, and it'll show you the minimum cooler size requirement.

If there's one thing I've learned, it's that the more I know about beer, the more I need to know more about beer.

Exactly! I've learned more in the last 5 or 6 years than I did in the first 15+, easily.

1968 is recommended for barleywine because it's a British strain and ,if done right, would be an obvious match for English barleywine. Guys here use it for barleywine with success. But being so highly flocculant (it's one of the most flocculant strains out there), it tends to do its job and drop like a stone. In the case of this barleywine, it could drop out and leave you with a high FG if you don't manage your fermentation. As fermentation starts to slow down, it's best to bump the temp up a couple degrees F/day (up to 75F-ish) and gently rouse the yeast, to spur the yeast to stay active and keep eating sugars. This will work fine, or you could use a British strain like WY1098 that won't give you the flocculation/stalling concerns and is a beast of a strain.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Tripel Advice
« on: August 09, 2016, 12:57:15 PM »
This ^.  Yeah, I wouldn't want a tripel @ 1.012 either. Mine finish ~ 1.008 normally - I like the drinkability.

Beer Recipes / Re: What to make with Kolsch Yeast
« on: August 09, 2016, 12:52:01 PM »
Yeah, that stuff takes forever to clear. I fined my kolsch this summer with gel and it took 2 weeks @ 31F to get it mostly clear. Another 2 weeks and it was crystal.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 09, 2016, 09:28:06 AM »
Belle is 3711 right?  Good yeast, fast and dry but too bland for me.  I would have to say my most favorite yeast of all time is Blaugies/wyeast limited edition 3726. 

Yeah, 3711 is said to be Belle. And I agree on all counts - I'm a 3724 lover, too, but I'd pick Blaugies over all the others. Gonna use Rustic soon.

All Grain Brewing / Re: How to add coffee to a stout
« on: August 09, 2016, 06:20:02 AM »
I add cracked whole beans to the keg in a dry hop canister (or fine mesh paint strainer bag) and pull when the flavor is where I like. Generally, a couple days.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 09, 2016, 04:43:24 AM »
What if I want more phenols, not esters?

Ferment colder?  It's not a hard and fast rule, but for yeasts that can produce esters and phenols (Belgian and German wheat) colder fermentation often expresses the latter.

+1.  I find 3068, for example, to give more clove at cooler temps (63-64F), more banana at warmer temps (66-68F).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 08, 2016, 03:55:52 PM »
FWIW, I don't make a habit of underpitching, Denny - I pitch plenty. Except in the case of hefeweizen where it seems (to me) that 3068 gets more estery on an underpitch.

The Pub / Re: Maui - Hawaii Sea Spirits
« on: August 08, 2016, 03:34:34 PM »
Great pics, thanks for posting. Sounds like a great trip. I assume you got to sample the product?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Are We All Overpitching All Dry Yeasts?!
« on: August 08, 2016, 03:09:48 PM »
It's definitely worth some experimentation. Who knows, maybe Belle Saison (for example) gets more interesting on half a pack ?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 6 Common Homebrew Myths
« on: August 08, 2016, 02:34:22 PM »
A good list, but I would quibble with the liquid vs. dry yeasts.  I would agree that they are equivalent for neutral yeasts (lagers, American ale), but for those styles where you want the yeast to produce esters and phenols, such as Belgians, British, and German weissbiers, I find all the dry yeasts lacking compared to the liquid varieties that are available.

I agree. S05 and 34/70, being neutral, perform nicely enough. But when I brew a beer where I want some yeast character, it's liquid all the way. Just me.

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