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Messages - HoosierBrew

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:00:04 PM »

My new Cleopatra APA, my first stab at low oxygen brewing, at 3 weeks. Yeah, the foam is killer. The only haze is from dry hopping. But there's a lot going on at once - I preboiled the water, used 50ppm SMB, but also (per the recently posted Bamforth paper) used a late addition of Brewtan (gallotannin) and PVPP (actually used the Brewbrite mixture of Polyclar and whirlfloc). So I undoubtedly broke the rules by changing multiple variables at once. Thing is, the beer is fantastic and there are justifications for all those changes. So I'm going forward with this as my MO.

 Interestingly, this is my house APA recipe, brewed it many times, and the color is slightly but noticeably lighter, giving more credence to the low oxygen brewers reported results of lighter colored beers. Aside from that, yes, the malt quality is very fresh and well defined. It has IT. As a footnote, the Cleopatra hops are very nice - first hops I've bought from Ted Hausotter. Citrusy, tropical/mango, slight pine, slight spiciness. Best APA I've ever made, period. I'm sold.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: WHYM
« on: November 23, 2016, 10:07:56 AM »
Pretty soon, you'll be able to just walk into a store and buy beer that's already brewed and ready to drink.

What a time to be alive


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: November 23, 2016, 09:24:25 AM »
While the dry do start out life as the liquid strain equivalents, they don't really exhibit the same properties. For instance 34/70 can throw lemon( I have never had 2124/830 do that), and none throw enough sulfur to help you post fermentation. Also interestingly they don't have the same attenuation or floccuation characteristics. I have gone though my fair share of 500g bricks of both of these yeast, but for flavor and post fermentation protection nothing beats the liquid strains IMO, especially when you go with low oxygen brewing techniques. The game changes then.

I agree that there are definite differences in fermentation characteristics/performance between dry and liquid. I much prefer liquid cultures myself.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: WHYM
« on: November 23, 2016, 08:34:19 AM »
In case there is any doubt:

Big surprise. Pretty sure NB will be selling it then.  ;)

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: November 23, 2016, 08:10:55 AM »
So 2124 is the same as 34/70 right?

Yup. Those beers sound good, too.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: WHYM
« on: November 23, 2016, 07:32:11 AM »
Wow. I mean, wow. Yeah, that pretty much does skip the whole brewing process. It's not brewing, it's flavoring existing beer. "For the homebrewer who just can't handle extract brewing, try our product."

Each his own. I guess.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: November 23, 2016, 05:56:35 AM »
  I like 2206 for most Southern German lagers, but will use 830/2124 for Northern German Pils to hit the crisp finish that seems to go well in matching the style.

Same here. I like the 2206 tendency to drop out pretty easily, too.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wort Aeration
« on: November 22, 2016, 12:39:16 PM »
I read in Denny's book that he uses a gas whip and a power drill to aearate the wort.

Anyone have good experience with this? How long should I whip it to incorporate a decent amount of O2?

I use a mix stir - I mix until the foam is at the top of the bucket. Same principle for carboys.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Estimated FG Seems Odd
« on: November 22, 2016, 12:28:45 PM »
Yeah, looks like a pretty fermentable grist overall. Any problems with temp control this time? Flocculant English strains are prone to stalling if temp goes down during fermentation and benefit from raising temp after a few days to attenuate properly. Did you pitch the same amount of yeast as usual, I assume? Did you use a refractometer to measure FG? If so, there's a correction you need to use to get an accurate reading. Correct the reading for temp? Also, a 1.066 beer, while not huge, will generally finish higher than a 1.050 beer as well.

Finally, software estimates of attenuation and FG are utterly worthless. Your FG (and attenuation) depends on lots of factors - grist, mash temp, pH control, yeast health and quantity, etc. Though most of your beers finish ~ 1.012, lots of yeast/grist/mash temp combos will make beers that don't.

Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: November 22, 2016, 08:58:59 AM »
A quick question: How important do you think the mash addition is?

I brewed an IPA last Sunday and just did the boil addition.  My thinking was that it will help, but the beer won't be aged so why use double the amount?

Having not left out the mash addition, I can't say from experience.  But if Joe says to do it, I'd do it.  He's the expert.

Same here.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend? 01/18/2014
« on: November 22, 2016, 08:53:54 AM »
Brewing my Pils again this weekend but this time with Saphir to finish instead of HMF.  Hope it turns out close to the one currently on tap.  It's be far and away my best Pils ever.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really enjoyed the G Pils I did with Saphir this summer. It's a tasty hop -  noble-ish but with its own spin.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Recent use of US05
« on: November 22, 2016, 08:20:28 AM »
Similar experience for my last beer with us05. Also took forever to drop out of suspension.

Same. I'll use it occasionally in a pinch, but I'm not fond of how long it takes to clear vs 1056.

Ingredients / Re: Your favorite malt and hop of the year.
« on: November 21, 2016, 04:30:55 PM »
Several months ago I brewed an attempt at an 1800s IPA. I figured there was no way to get malt to match what was available 200 years ago so I did a blend of what British malts I had on hand: pearl, optic, and halcyon.

That sounds like a great beer !

All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: November 21, 2016, 01:30:44 PM »
Maybe I'm a rube, but I can't mathematically get 101ppm sulfate, no matter how I try.
Is someone able to show me what formula is being used to get that number?

Yeah, it would seem hard to get 101 ppm sulfate from using 100ppm SMB. Maybe I'm missing something.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: November 21, 2016, 07:44:36 AM »
Asking because of this article: - "Upstream Beer Stabilisation during Wort Boiling by Addition of Gallotannins and/or PVPP". Apparently there's a huge difference wrt chill haze depending on the pH. Shelf life @5.2pH: 29.89 days vs shelf life @5.6: 15.53 days. But I assume depending on the pH the flavor will be different for an amber beer.

Quick derail - that article has some great info. Thanks for re-posting. I read in more detail this time.

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