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Messages - HoosierBrew

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This is not a test.  This is the real thing.
I cannot find a "direct" link.  It really should have copied and pasted into the frame, but no.
I will look into Tapatalk.

When you double click on one of your picture thumbnails in photobucket, it enlarges and then you see 3 or 4 different links on the right side, each with a different name. I use the link called 'direct'.

So, I am attempting to use photobucket for pictures and have in the past been able to paste the location between the img's of the photo mona lisa icon, but not so anymore.  What is everyone else using?

I use photobucket Jeff - I copy the 'Direct' link and paste it as usual. The direct one is the only link that pastes correctly for me.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WY1450 - a couple of questions
« on: May 15, 2016, 10:51:07 AM »
Thanks for the answers, sounds like I'm not going to be able to get this bottled next week as planned.  If I took the FV out of the fridge, is this a yeast that would be fine sitting at room temp (21/22c) for the last 7 days?

If you're past the first 4 or 5 days of fermentation, sure.

I prefer 2124/830 for German pils. Helps me hit the dry, crisp character I like in the style.

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewometer
« on: May 15, 2016, 07:25:12 AM »
I do like it for controlling temp ramping, etc, but have found that it's more valuable as a relative "progress meter" and less valuable for actual gravity readings.

The big issue for me is that it seems to be calibrated at a specific temperature, but then as I change my fermentation temp it throws off the gravity reading. Its internal thermometer and temp probe are supposed to help correct for this, so I need to study a little more, check for firmware updates, etc. in the meantime, it tells me what I need to know.

Good info. I can see how changing temps could throw off the gravity readings. Hopefully some of the bugs get worked out with that. For me, I would see it more as a 'progress meter', too.

Love the Saran Wrap idea as a mash cap - gonna steal that one. I'd been overcomplicating it. I was trying to figure out the best material to fabricate one. Thanks for the tip!

Equipment and Software / Re: Brewometer
« on: May 15, 2016, 06:43:51 AM »
Don't know anything about its accuracy and reliability, but the price point is very reasonable.

Dang, really?! If I'd known they would sell at that price I would have started making these a couple years ago.

I was comparing to the price of the Beer Bug, but it definitely isn't cheap. I recommend you sell one at ~ $80 ;D
Yep, I'm here next weekend - let me know.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Iodine vs Starsan
« on: May 14, 2016, 06:12:23 PM »
I use Star San (in distilled water) after thorough OCD cleaning and don't have issues. But once or twice a year I soak all plastic items in a fermentation bucket full of bleach solution to kill any potential wild yeast/resistant infection. Extra insurance, whether I actually need it or not. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bittering with chinook question
« on: May 14, 2016, 10:59:44 AM »
Now you type this.  Just back back from LHBS with some Magnum for the APA I'm brewing this coming week.  LOL!  Well, I'm still going to use it for this batch but what would you use Magnum for?  'Cuz I will have a bunch left over!

Lagers, or any beer where you want a smooth, neutral, clean bitterness.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bittering with chinook question
« on: May 14, 2016, 08:57:21 AM »
In theory I know the answer to this but wanted some experienced advice.

I usually use magnum for bittering addition for my IPAs.  I wanted to try bittering with chinook this time and wondering what the difference will be everything else being equal.  Specifically, will there be any taste difference (increased pine?) or just a different (less mellow) bitter.


+1.  Magnum gives a smooth, pretty neutral bitterness where Chinook gives a more coarse IPA-like bitterness. I bitter IPAs with either Chinook or Columbus.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WY1450 - a couple of questions
« on: May 14, 2016, 08:33:26 AM »
Do you think I'm safe to add my dry hops, or should I wait a couple of days?

Personally, I'd either wait until the airlock activity is near done or wait a week or two until the beer has dropped fairly clear and add the dry hops. Or dry hop in the keg, if you keg. It'll be good either way.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WY1450 - a couple of questions
« on: May 14, 2016, 07:32:51 AM »
I like to give it maybe 4 days @ 62-64F (normal strength beer) then ramp up to 68 or 70F over a couple days to finish. It's probably @ FG in a week but I leave it in primary an extra week to clean up. Great strain!

FWIW, I believe in the idea of O2 reduction upstream, which has been around obviously for a long time. Admittedly, what I perceived for a long time as 'HSA theory that didn't apply in reality to homebrewers' actually could possibly degrade the stability/shelf life and (possibly) malt character of the beer. The paper presented (arguments of feasibility/efficacy aside) was a plan that makes a degree of sense in theory. Implementation is a huge issue there. Maybe there are better ways to achieve this. Maybe what we're doing is ok. 

Got it.  Ok, so it is then an issue of most people just flat out don't like the authors then?  I'm not trying to be argumentative or troll, but this makes a lot more sense now.  Admittedly, I was late to this party and didn't have this background, so you've answered my questions!

After trolling us for weeks and then expecting us to instantly sign off on their info, no questions asked?  Yep. I believe in the info for the most part (unlike some), but don't accept anything from anybody without questions allowed. Not even lager gurus. 

Ingredients / Re: interesting hop to pair with cascade
« on: May 13, 2016, 07:53:20 PM »
Galaxy is just a great hop. Plays well with others!

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