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Messages - HoosierBrew

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241
Never heard of the brewery listed for IN. Merrillville is far northern Indiana, a part of the state I don't get to often. I'd think I'd have at least heard of it if it were that damn good. Whatever.
 

242
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: March 10, 2017, 05:21:20 PM »
Rebrewed my Dunkel today in case it advances to final round. A couple points over target OG (ended@ 1.054) but smooth sailing otherwise. The Barke malts definitely have a higher extract rate in the several times I've used them. Worst case, I have 5 more gallons of good beer. Next up, American stout in a week or two.

Nice. Now to figure out about how to deal with the remaining yeast. My helles is still young, but nowhere near clear.


My entry will definitely clear out in time, but it's getting carried from point A to B. I have to assume it won't advance. I just have to make a decision. I'm not really inclined to cut dip tubes. There's already a fair amount of extra yeast taking up space from the spund. Don't necessarily wanna lose another upwards of 1/2 gal to a shorter tube, and then hope I can still fill clean beer into bottles. I'm gonna try a batch trying like hell to clear the yeast at the end of fermentation when it's still loose. If I can fill clear, awesome. If not, decision to make.

243
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: March 10, 2017, 05:14:04 PM »
Yeah, looks great, Frank. It's a great recipe. I think the lack of nitro definitely changes the mouthfeel. Enjoy!

244
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: March 10, 2017, 12:56:44 PM »
Rebrewed my Dunkel today in case it advances to final round. A couple points over target OG (ended@ 1.054) but smooth sailing otherwise. The Barke malts definitely have a higher extract rate in the several times I've used them. Worst case, I have 5 more gallons of good beer. Next up, American stout in a week or two.

245
It's funny, Denny, I've always liked WLP001 just a tad better than Wy1056, because I thought it produced a cleaner, drier beer.  I gave US-05 a good shot, probably made about 8 or 10 batches with it, but I'm just not a fan.  I like both of the liquid Chico strains better.

After a while, I started to use the James Bond yeast WLP007 (which I also like better than Wy1098) for my IPAs and APAs because I find both of the American strains were almost too clean.  I still occasionally go back to 1056 and 001 though.

I've brewed back to back bitters with WY1098 after a few years of WLP007. I also think these are a bit different and I'm going back to WLP007.



I'm in the minority and prefer 1098. I'll say I use it to be fairly clean, with only a slight ester. I've gotten away from brewing most British beers (just decided I don't care for the fruity esters), so I can't judge its estery character at higher levels. I use it for my Arrogant Bastard-ish American Strong Ale because Stone allegedly does.

246
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: March 10, 2017, 12:45:27 PM »
Helles.   





Looks pretty flawless from here. Of course I'd need a pint or two of it to be sure.   :)

247
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hoppy Pils Water
« on: March 10, 2017, 10:24:28 AM »
An additional 40ppm of Cl is not gonna take something from very dry to very full.  I once did a mild with 350ppm Cl and it was not "full" at all.
That is something in Brunwater that is confusing.  It bases full, balanced or dry on the ratio of Cl to SO4 not the total amounts.


Sulfate definitely enhances dryness, chloride enhances malt/body fullness. Aside from that one of my takeaways from Brunwater is to keep either sulfate or chloride under 100 if the other exceeds 100ppm, to avoid minerally beer. I don't focus on the ratio at all and more on the amounts. It's all personal preference anyway - I try a profile and make changes based on what I want, as in reducing sulfate from the super high levels of the pale ale profile.

248
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dry Hop in Keg
« on: March 10, 2017, 08:11:51 AM »
My guess is that it was just too cold at the outset...I've found (as others mention) that dry-hopping cold doesn't do a lot, it takes awhile for the character to show, and the character is muted relative to a beer that is dry-hopped "warm". But per Denny's comment, did the hops smell aromatic when they went in?


FWIW, I've added hops to a 38-40F keg and gotten good results (though granted it takes longer to extract). I also wonder if these were vacuum sealed, frozen hops, ie., hops in good condition, or hops just measured by the LHBS and put into a Ziploc bag. I ask because I used to buy hops by the oz from the LHBS when I started. Once I bought a vacuum sealer and bought hops in bulk from good hop retailers, the difference was astounding.


249
Awesome work, Keith. Congrats!

250
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hoppy Pils Water
« on: March 09, 2017, 04:27:29 PM »
But, for lagers, 40 ppm Ca from CaCl2 is going to yield ~80 ppm Cl.  Way more than the 30 ppm in Jever boiled.  Combined with 45 SO4 gives a "very full" profile while Jever boiled is a "very dry" profile. ??



Right. I posted above that for German pils, I prefer a drier Jever-type profile where I do what I posted last night to hit the profile. As for most OTHER, more malty lagers, I hold the sulfate to that which I get from the SMB portion of the trifecta blend (ie., ~ 45ppm SO4), then get my Ca content from CaCl2. So you're right, that works out to ~ 80ish ppm chloride. Two different approaches, depending on what I'm brewing. For the Jever profile (as I've been lodo brewing), I simply add 45ppm less SO4 into software. Sorry for the confusion, Phil. I'm trying to give advice lodo-free first, unless someone specifically asks for it.

251
Other Fermentables / Re: "Naturally Sweet" Cider
« on: March 09, 2017, 10:33:19 AM »
I accidentally stumbled across a way to do this...WY1450!  Ihad a bunch of apples pressed and no other yeast around.  I tossed in some 1450 and it made the best cider I've made in 20 years...apple flavor, not bone dry, a bit of residual sweetness.  I could hardly believe so I did it again to confirm.  Different batch of juice, same result.


I'm using it very next time. Glad you posted. So does it ferment all the way down to 1.000 ? I assume it does and just leaves a sweeter perception?

Nope, it didn't.  Between 1.004-008.  This was straight organic apple juice from my own apples.  No sugar added.  OG 1.045ish.


Wow, that's the FG range I normally backsweeten to anyway! Thanks, Denny.

252
Other Fermentables / Re: "Naturally Sweet" Cider
« on: March 09, 2017, 10:14:43 AM »
I accidentally stumbled across a way to do this...WY1450!  Ihad a bunch of apples pressed and no other yeast around.  I tossed in some 1450 and it made the best cider I've made in 20 years...apple flavor, not bone dry, a bit of residual sweetness.  I could hardly believe so I did it again to confirm.  Different batch of juice, same result.


I'm using it very next time. Glad you posted. So does it ferment all the way down to 1.000 ? I assume it does and just leaves a sweeter perception?

253
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hoppy Pils Water
« on: March 09, 2017, 09:43:26 AM »
Wow. So I guess I shouldn't worry about 70ppm.

I wouldn't. Actually my exception is German pils where I like a drier finish. I like 70 to 100 SO4 there.

 

254
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hoppy Pils Water
« on: March 09, 2017, 09:22:54 AM »
Denny or Jon,
When you say you use Jever boiled, that's for mash water not finished beer profile.  Correct?

Well, both. Unlike (for example) the pale ale profile where I often back off the sulfate a bit, I generally target the finished Jever profile. Depends on what I'm after though.
How do you get to 46 ppm CA and 15 ppm NA?

Edit:  Wait, are you adding pickling lime?


I guess I should say that I don't target the exact Na values. I monitor Na to only be sure it doesn't get above 50ppm generally but don't care otherwise. As for the rest, I try to hit the 75 sulfate and 30 chloride values, along with the 46ish Ca. What I do is to add sufficient CaCl2 to hit 30ppm, then add gypsum until I hit the 46ppm Ca. Whatever sulfate value that is deficient to hit the 75ppm sulfate (if any) is then made up with Epsom salt. Of course, epsom = sulfate with no Ca. Balances out that way.
Thanks Jon,  That method worked perfectly and only needed CaCl2 and gypsum when starting with RO, which I do.

Next question...How do you incorporate the SMB when doing a LODO batch?


Well, using the trifecta mixture at the recommended .37g/gal , I count on around 45ppm sulfate. For lagers I use CaCl2 only, to hit just over 40ppm Ca, then lactic to correct pH . And for ales, I figure in the assumed 45ppm SO4 to whatever profile I'm using. In other words, if I'm brewing an APA and want 160ppm SO4,  I'll add 115ppm SO4 into software because I know I'm getting the other 45ppm from SMB.


Edited for simple math error.  :)

255
In my honest opinion, just ignore the "recommended temp ranges" on the yeast packages.
If you are unsure of a good fermentation temp you want for your beer, just look around the forums and see what folks have been recommending for the yeast/style you are brewing.





Totally agree.

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