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Messages - HoosierBrew

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406
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: IPA length of fermentation question
« on: June 01, 2016, 07:13:25 AM »
My IPA's are most always kegged up and carbing by 2 wks. About 7-9 days for primary fermentation, 3-4 days on dry hops, cold crashed overnight, then kegged with gelatin. Come out great.  No need to let them sit for 4 wks+. Drink'em fresh for best hop overload!


Same thing I do (except that I dry hop in keg now). Quicker is definitely better with hoppy beers.

407
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: IPA length of fermentation question
« on: May 31, 2016, 03:59:16 PM »
No reason you shouldn't be able to keg @ 3 weeks, especially if you're @ FG now.

408
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bottle harvesting Saison Dupont yeast
« on: May 31, 2016, 03:54:45 PM »
So it sounds like the culprit for cheapo refractometer inconsistency is ATC.  If you keep the unit at room temperature, that shouldn't be an issue, since the mass of the prism is much greater than a few drops of wort would be able to change.


Totally agree. And evaporation on hot samples definitely happens quickly, too - FWIW I cool my hot samples for a couple minutes in the freezer in an airtight plastic container, then take a reading. Just takes a couple minutes in the freezer to be @ room temp. My refracto stays @ room temp as well.

409
Gravity is down to 1.009 without there having been any visible kraeusen. Is that worrisome?


Not if the beer tastes and smells good. Some strains produce more krausen and ferment faster than others.

It's Thames Valley. I perceive a quite strong sulfury smell. Is that typical for this yeast?


Not typical IME, but I wouldn't worry too much. Sulfur dissipates with time, and you can help out the process by venting the keg periodically (assuming you keg this).

First you tell me that I shouldn't worry if the smell is good. Now you tell me that I shouldn't worry about the sulfur smell. When exactly should I start worrying? :'(



The sulfur will dissipate. If it tastes like crap 6 weeks from now, worry.  :)  BTW did you use the SS chiller for this beer out of curiosity?  I ask because the wort being in contact with copper (as in a copper chiller) is known to reduce sulfur levels. All this stuff about low O2 brewing seems (by avoiding copper)to introduce the possibilty of sulfur-y beers. Again, the sulfur will dissipate though.
I'm fairly convinced that a big part of the "German flavor" is that they tend to prefer higher levels of sulfur.


No doubt that low sulfur is to be expected (even desireable) in some of those beers. Not in many other styles though, or at elevated levels.

410
Gravity is down to 1.009 without there having been any visible kraeusen. Is that worrisome?


Not if the beer tastes and smells good. Some strains produce more krausen and ferment faster than others.

It's Thames Valley. I perceive a quite strong sulfury smell. Is that typical for this yeast?


Not typical IME, but I wouldn't worry too much. Sulfur dissipates with time, and you can help out the process by venting the keg periodically (assuming you keg this).

First you tell me that I shouldn't worry if the smell is good. Now you tell me that I shouldn't worry about the sulfur smell. When exactly should I start worrying? :'(



The sulfur will dissipate. If it tastes like crap 6 weeks from now, worry.  :)  BTW did you use the SS chiller for this beer out of curiosity?  I ask because the wort being in contact with copper (as in a copper chiller) is known to reduce sulfur levels. All this stuff about low O2 brewing seems (by avoiding copper)to introduce the possibilty of sulfur-y beers. Again, the sulfur will dissipate though.

411
Gravity is down to 1.009 without there having been any visible kraeusen. Is that worrisome?


Not if the beer tastes and smells good. Some strains produce more krausen and ferment faster than others.

It's Thames Valley. I perceive a quite strong sulfury smell. Is that typical for this yeast?


Not typical IME, but I wouldn't worry too much. Sulfur dissipates with time, and you can help out the process by venting the keg periodically (assuming you keg this).

412
Gravity is down to 1.009 without there having been any visible kraeusen. Is that worrisome?


Not if the beer tastes and smells good. Some strains produce more krausen and ferment faster than others.

413
I wonder if homebrewers who did not like black patent were not properly adjusting the mash pH.  The pH readings suggest that black patent is more acidic than the other dark malts even at the same nominal lovibond value.

Entirely possible


Yep, 5.6 pH definitely softens it. Or roasted barley for that matter.

414
I used both, I can't taste the difference but the BioFine Clear beer is a little clearer than the gelatin fined beer. For me the extra cost of the BioFine offsets the slight advantage.


Having used both, I feel the same. Not having to mix and heat the Biofine like you do gelatin is a nice advantage, but the cost is a tradeoff. I like both but use gelatin for the most part lately.

415
I used to struggle with that, too. FWIW I finally went the other way and filled the tub until the bucket almost floated (more water equaled more thermal mass in my mind) and just focused on controlling the water temp with frozen bottles, checking the water with my thermometer. Both ways worked well for me.

416
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water Pale Ale Profile
« on: May 30, 2016, 07:28:52 AM »
Why chalk and baking soda? That grain bill shouldn't need any alkalinity. Stick with gypsum, calcium chloride and Epsom. Maybe some salt. It will take quite a lot of gypsum and Epsom salt to hit the profile.

Read on the directions tab regarding chalk usage. Martin doesn't recommend it.


+1.   Shouldn't need baking soda at all in this beer, and chalk is pretty much worthless in brewing water for pH control.

417
Other Fermentables / Re: First Hard Apple Cider - Any Tips?
« on: May 29, 2016, 01:01:24 PM »
I'm about 5-6 days into fermentation.  The temp has been hovering around 62-68 (unfortunately, there have been a couple of times that I've swapped out ice bottles late and the temp climbed that high).  Should I be expecting any type of head as a result from fermentation?  I have seen none thus far.  During the first couple of days, I'd see a few micro bubbles pop up here and there when spot checking but there has been no head or foam or anything whatsoever.  I know beer is a different ball game but there was definitely a head within the first couple of days during fermentation at the 62 degree F temp.



Depending on the strain you use, a little to almost no foamy krausen like you'd expect from beer. Remember that it's generally a slower fermentation as well. You're good. Good luck!

418
Equipment and Software / Re: 3 Beer Bottle Shipping Boxes
« on: May 29, 2016, 10:47:37 AM »
Lots of bubble wrap and some luck.  8)


+1.  I buy rolls of bubble wrap from the UPS store.

419
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation twice?
« on: May 29, 2016, 09:03:27 AM »
Looks like a pretty small starter if I'm reading right. Also looks like you racked to secondary after a week, which can sometimes stall a fermentation. 1098 is pretty attenuative so it normally wouldn't do that. But the advice to brewers to rack to secondary still persists today - except there is nothing gained by doing it and it potentially can stall the beer by removing the beer from a lot of active yeast. I would try to pitch some more active yeast (even some 1056). I see no reason in the grist that the beer would finish @ 1.028. IMO it's not pitching enough yeast and racking to secondary after a week that caused the high FG. Good luck.

420
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation twice?
« on: May 29, 2016, 08:30:08 AM »
You should post your recipe so we can help. Did you use extract? How much yeast and what strain? In the meantime you should move the fermenter to the warmest room in the house and give it a week or so, to encourage the yeast to eat some more sugar.

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