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Messages - HoosierBrew

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76
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Question About Beer CO2 Absorption
« on: April 18, 2015, 07:28:30 PM »
Is it possible the beer absorbed the gas? Does this sound plausible for the lack of gas in the headspace (minor headspace)?

Yep. The beer needs to stay connected for around 2 weeks to carbonate fully to your pressure setting. And then afterward it helps to keep the pressure on the keg, to keep the lid seated.

77
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anxiety of Kegging
« on: April 18, 2015, 11:14:56 AM »
Leave the door open for a minute or two and condensation will tell you. I also rap a knuckle on the side of the keg and listen for the change in tone.

Lifting or tipping the keg can disturb any sediment in the bottom (shoulda used gelatin!) as I've found out to my dismay.

Yeah, I hear ya. Being a little less greedy and settling for the 3/4 full growler of clear beer wouldn't kill me, either. ;D

78
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anxiety of Kegging
« on: April 18, 2015, 11:07:54 AM »

The anxiety is peaked when trying to fill a growler when you know it's getting close.

Yeah, been there. You get it 3/4 full of clear beer, then the damn sediment blows in there. Expletives usually fly.
Or you aren't paying attention and blow a ton of gas in it causing a geyser of beer. I don't think I'm getting my security deposit back on the carpet.

Yeah, luckily it hits my garage floor. Doesn't make the growler full of cloudy beer seem any better, though.

79
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anxiety of Kegging
« on: April 18, 2015, 10:43:48 AM »
The anxiety is peaked when trying to fill a growler when you know it's getting close.

Yeah, been there. You get it 3/4 full of clear beer, then the damn sediment blows in there. Expletives usually fly.

80
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anxiety of Kegging
« on: April 18, 2015, 09:39:33 AM »
Here's a low tech one - a dry erase board to mark each pint you pour. 40 pints/keg. The only drawback - non pint glasses. Still not hard to ballpark.

81
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 09:03:43 AM »
+1.  I'd be concerned about pollutant runoff, too.

Would pollutants be analyzed by Ward Labs?

I'm not sure, but I doubt it. Regardless, at least city water as well as store bought water (RO, distilled) would have pollutants and impurities removed. Might be a safer bet.

82
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 08:21:21 AM »
+1.  I'd be concerned about pollutant runoff, too.

83
The Pub / Re: Posting Pictures
« on: April 18, 2015, 06:20:56 AM »
I email the pic to my self, download the emailed pic to my laptop, then upload it from 'downloads' into Photobucket. No physical connection.

84
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Newbie question - krausen
« on: April 18, 2015, 05:55:53 AM »
Don't bother with transferring to a secondary - it's dated thinking that just isn't necessary for most beers, including this one. Transferring a beer too soon can cause fermentation to not finish properly and cause off flavors/aromas. Take a gravity reading now to see where you're at. The way to verify that fermentation is done is to get identical gravity readings over consecutive days. 3 identical readings would be good. Good luck !

85
Beer Recipes / Re: new Pale Ale
« on: April 17, 2015, 04:50:08 PM »
Might be good to account for that in Bru'nwater. Like giving Rahr 2 row a 5L instead of a 2L, to account for the extra acidity.

86
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: thin beer
« on: April 17, 2015, 04:14:44 PM »
My first beers had so much body they had to be beaten into the glass with a night stick,

OMG that's funny. I resemble that, Jim. I'm pretty sure a few of my first beers could be poured on pancakes if I got to try them now.   ;D

87
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: NHC 2015 First Round Results
« on: April 17, 2015, 03:28:36 PM »
Nice work, Frenchy !

88
Equipment and Software / Re: Thermapen Sale
« on: April 17, 2015, 02:59:04 PM »
You don't have to burn a lot of bucks to get great instruments. The Thermapen manufacturer makes the following thermometers that have virtually the same spec and they cost WAY less. I use both of these:

http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt301wa.html
http://www.thermoworks.com/products/low_cost/rt600c.html

Nice recommendation. Thanks, Martin!

+1 to the RT600C - I have one and love it. So does my wallet.

89
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: April 17, 2015, 12:40:05 PM »
Nice looking Belgian. Great style. I brew one or two blonds a year.

90

Maybe use all 5 of those hops.  Chinook for bittering.  Columbus at 30 min and dry hop.  The other three at 5 min and 0 min plus a bit more for dry hop, plus a 45 min hop stand.  I haven't done so but it sounds intriguing.  I know lots of folks warn about +3 hops, but depending on the combo/amounts used I like the complexity of 5-hop IPAs.

+1.  I like blending several hops for IPA, most times. Of course not every combo works, but that doesn't mean the practice is bad.  Personally, I'd bitter with Chinook too, blend the rest (I've blended all these) and use 8 oz of the blend for a 40 minute stand @ 175F - No other hops in boil than the 60 minute. Then dry hop with 5-6 more oz of the mixture for 5 days, room temp.

That's 8 and 6 ounces for 5 gallons?   :o Pity, I'm a stupid Belgian.

Well, personal taste should always come in.  I know the 8 oz seems high, but there are many IPA recipes that have 15, 10, 5, and 0 minute additions of 2 oz each, ie., 8 oz total. I'm just adding them all in the whirlpool. And dry hopping totals of 4-6 oz aren't uncommon for AIPA nowadays. If it seems too much to you, definitely back off some.


EDIT  -   Here's what I left out - if you add all of your bittering hops in the kettle and the late hops to whirlpool (like I do for hoppy beers), you need to wait until you cool to 180F or under to add the whirlpool hops. Two reasons :  1/ The volatile oils that give you great hop flavor and aroma get driven off at hotter temps. Cooler temps preserve more of this magic.   2/ You extract more bitterness above 180F. So if you account for all of your bitterness in the kettle, you will pick up extra bitterness and lose hop flavor/aroma above 180F. Lose-lose. However, for other styles ,I will add all hops PERIOD at ~ 200F (cream ale is one), and for many styles no whirlpool hopping at all. It all depends on what you're after.

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