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Messages - repo

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16
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Ageing different styles of beer.
« on: November 16, 2013, 10:53:47 AM »
PTE very plainly says not to age it, right on the bottle. Commercial examples  generally have a 6 month shelf life at most anymore. Tastes vary greatly, as does style interpretations, you can't argue with opinions. However,  if you want big hop aroma and flavor, you need to enjoy them fresh- that is a fact.

17
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Building Water
« on: November 16, 2013, 10:40:27 AM »
Around here SWAG refers to the free stuff we get for raffles and prizes.

It's schwag, isn't it?

18
Beer Recipes / Re: How low can I go?
« on: November 16, 2013, 10:36:14 AM »
I agree Denny, but not just for your reason. If you hand someone something called X but it tastes like Z, they are going to be surprised. Replace someone's milk with oj and watch the reaction.
Its not so much guarding the guidelines as it is preparing the mind for what the mouth is getting.
But you are right too, hard to give advice on Z when its actually X and just calling it Z.

And one could argue that just as milk can be whole, 2% or skim for example. Ipa can be double, session or black. 

19
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: fermentation question on ipa
« on: October 30, 2013, 09:39:09 AM »
To your "grassiness" question. NO. That is utter nonsense.
I hope you meant 4oz and not 4 lbs of carapils, and crystal 120.
Get to know the ingredients, this will help you build a recipe with a certain result in mind. Check out what is used in your favorite beers and start playing with those.

20
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Pressure difference between kegs
« on: October 29, 2013, 09:57:29 PM »
I had a diptube that was just too long, when tightened (over?) it would touch the bottom of the keg and cause the beer to come out gushing. I  was able to loosen the fitting enough to finish the keg and then shortened the tube.

21
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hopping: How Much Hops?
« on: October 29, 2013, 04:16:48 PM »
You know I have had the oaked db the last few times. It seems now that a friend said that recently but I can't recall who. Maybe its that  2013 Chinook. I will get some on tap next time I'm out.

22
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mixing UK and US base malts for UK styles
« on: October 29, 2013, 04:07:18 PM »
I have gone through a few sacks of GP and never had any issues. In fact with the Simpsons I was getting a couple extra points vs us 2 row, and had to use less to hit my og- terrible problem;-)

23
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hopping: How Much Hops?
« on: October 29, 2013, 03:54:16 PM »
Double Bastard is not an AIPA or IIPA  technically (as it is an American Strong Ale), but it is listed @ 100 IBU.  And having had it recently out of a pretty fresh keg, it definitely comes across as pretty hoppy, both in flavor and aroma. So in a beer of this OG (1.104) I definitely don't think 5 or 6 oz of dry hops would be at all out of place.

Well taste is subjective. Malty is the first word that comes into my mind, balanced would be next. The op said it was pretty hoppy already and asked how much to add to get a taste of that Chinook goodness. They are very secretive about the  bastard beers, I don't believe arrogant is dry hopped though.  I would disagree that 5 ounces of dryhops would be anywhere near what Stone is going for in this beer. As was already suggested, the late additions are where some serious hop increases should be made. Add 5 ounces to flameout, that I would agree with.

24
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry Hopping: How Much Hops?
« on: October 29, 2013, 10:50:16 AM »
This is not an ipa or a iipa. I would go with about 3 ounces, 2 if you are doing in in the keg.

25
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: More questions on ferm temps
« on: October 29, 2013, 08:47:38 AM »
There seems to be some confusion here on what the temps mean. When a recipe says to ferment at 68, that is the temperature of the beer.  Get it at 68 and keep it there. Just like pitching temp is the temp of the wort. Ambient temp is not what is being considered. If you are describing the ambient temp you ferment at, you don't actually know what temp you are fermenting at. You therefore cannot say ohh this yeast does great at 64(ambient), I do it all the time. Chances are that yeast is working around 70ish. Which would be actually fermenting warmer than someone actually fermenting the beer at 68.

Yep, it's a very tasty brew.  FWIW I regularly start 1056/001/05 at  ~ 64F because, as Mort mentioned, you will be a few degrees above the temp you pitched at during high krausen. Yeast recommendations for temp are often general guidelines, so pitch on the low end or, optimally, pitch at least 2 or 3 degrees below the stated minimum and you'll have far superior results.

This for example is very confusing, I have no idea what the fermentation temperature is being used here. Standard practice is to pitch a couple degrees cooler than you want to ferment at. So it is starting (pitching?) at 64, raising up to 66 (ambient?), then as things get going into the 70s. That would be my guess.

26
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Temp Measurement
« on: October 26, 2013, 10:45:34 AM »
It will during active fermentation, and only for a few days usually.  As fermentation slows you will need to raise that ambient back up or the beer temp will drop. The yeast experts say the first 2-3 days is where temp control is most important.
The goal is to keep the beer at a desired temperature during peak fermentation.

27
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Temp Measurement
« on: October 26, 2013, 10:01:03 AM »
Jim, if I ferment a beer at 65, it will start at an ambient of 67ish, and then after fermentation begins,  I will slowly drop the ambient down to keep the beer at 65. After it is pretty much done I will raise the beer to 68-with an ambient of 70ish. My goal is to keep the beer at an actual temperature, not allow it to vary over time.  In your example the beer would start at 58ish and then if it took off climb into the 60s somewhere. But you would be fermenting it over several degrees as opposed to 65.

28
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dip tube
« on: October 26, 2013, 09:04:32 AM »
You could just get a filter and forget about it. Then you can transport/move kegs and not stir up the yeast as well.

29
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: October 24, 2013, 12:08:23 PM »
Without having my brew sheets to reference i would say gravity tends to be anywhere from 8-5 points off. Readings after three weeks of fermentation have been between 1.020 and 1.022. OG has been between 1.052 and 1.056.

That does seem a bit much for my previous theory to be accurate.

30
All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: October 24, 2013, 11:29:39 AM »
Sparge water tends to be just south of boiling 190-200 occasionally i will pull water while it's boiling, i have a chest cooler mash tun and keep at least two inches of water above the grain bed, my sparge lasts about 45 minutes to an hour at least. I trust my thermometer. I rarely use yeast that is beyond it's third use.
I think i already know the answer to this but does a high sparge temp have an adverse effect on attenuation? I've been heating my sparge water on the high side lately and my efficiency has gone way up but my attenuation has been crappy. Pretty sure i need to lower the temp but just wanted to confirm with some other folks before i make changes. Thanks


I would speculate that it is your conversion that is changing with the higher sparge temps. As Sean alluded you are now getting to mash out temps, which as you near that beta amylase slows and stops, while alpha amalyse speeds up.  With your lower sparge temps you had more beta action.

What are the actual numbers you are talking about? I'm mean are these beers finishing 2 points higher or ten?

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