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Messages - repo

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256
The Pub / Re: AHA joke thread
« on: March 09, 2012, 12:41:24 PM »
Why is the area between a womans breast and her hips called a waist?

Because you could easily fit another set of breasts in there.

257
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Favorite Commerical Breweries
« on: March 08, 2012, 08:02:07 PM »
Current favorites in no particular order. Subject to change without notice.

Russian River
Green Flash
Alpine
Avery
Alesmith
Firestone Walker
Pizza Port
Stone
Ballast Point
Bear Republic

258
The Pub / Re: AHA joke thread
« on: March 08, 2012, 03:43:20 PM »
Not really a joke but funny.
One night at Cheers, Cliff Clavin
explained the"Buffalo Theory" to his buddy Norm:                     
 
"Well, ya see, Norm, it's like this.  A herd of
 buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo.
 And when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and
weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural
selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the
general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving
by the regular killing of the weakest members!  In much the
same way, the human brain can only operate as fast as the
slowest brain cells.  Excessive intake of alcohol, as we
know, kills brain cells.  But naturally, it attacks the
slowest and weakest brain cells first.. In this way,
regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain
cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine!
That's why you always feel smarter after a few beers."


259
Yeah, good advice abve. I however  might suggest that the first step be the easiest when diagnosing problems. In this instance as Morticai alluded check for the  krausen, a visual inspection of the beer can tell you what may be happening. Is there krausen or evidence of it having come and gone? Also using fermometers and monitoring temperature can also indicate fermentation is progressing, as it will rise.  I have a carboy blowoff hood that doesn't seal and  I have never seen one bubble through numerous fermentations, I can see the beer though and know that its fermenting.

260
Homebrew Competitions / Re: NHC Entries closed....
« on: March 07, 2012, 08:07:12 AM »
Reading most of these I feel like it's either a comedy central skit of some kind or a mix of kingpin meets dodgeball meets best in show.  It's unfortunate there is not enough room for everyone who wanted to enter. What occured this year was unprecedented, people had a resonable expectation to sign up at their leisure. Now they know they better not hesitate to sign up. Next year they will have no one to blame but themselves, or possibly their internet service-sign up for 4g now.

261
Equipment and Software / Re: Prioritizing Next Equipment Purchase
« on: March 05, 2012, 07:33:00 PM »
Thanks for all the suggestions guys!

 Re: controlling fermentation temperatures - I usually put my primary in our second bathroom where it stays in the mid-60s. Would figuring out a way to control fermentation temperature have a greater affect on the final batch compared to the time needed to chill the wort down? And how big a fridge/freezer are we talking about that it would fit a primary?
 




In short yes, fermentation temperature control. I think every book I've read and every professional brewer I 've talked to have said the #1 piece of advice they give to improve ones beer is fermentation temperature control. Don't get stuck with the idea that it must be a fridge/freezer though. There are some other options and great inventions that can suffice. Check ghetto chill in archives for instance. Also a temp contoller will also be required. I do love my wort chiller too though. My best advice would be , whatever you get be sure it will meet your needs for years to come :)

262
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: how much S 05
« on: March 03, 2012, 03:42:41 PM »
1 1/2 would probably be proper pitch rate, I would use 2.   One is not sufficient.

263
 
I know that fermentation generates heat. I've demonstrated it to myself by measuring the temperature inside and outside an uncontrolled fermentation and seen as much as 8 °F difference. But I have also seen that in my 50 °F cellar, the beer in my carboy never gets above the temperature I have my set on my Johnson controlled FermWrap.

So when I see a recipe say, "Start fermentation at 64 °F and allow to free rise to 69 °F," and I have seen some professional brewers give this advice, what does it mean?

I mean, if the ambient temperature is 64 °F I can imagine one thing happening, but if the ambient temperature is 85 °F, it will be another, and if I control the temperature, well then I'm not exactly letting it free rise, am I?

So, what does it mean?

Your controller is working so your beer temp doesn't rise above the set temp. It shuts off the heater.

Free rise - allow it to rise naturally without artificial means.  So by exothermic reation and/or by ambient temperature. This will occur slowly, which is the key.

At 64 ambient it wil not always get to 69, when it does use your heater to keep it there. At 85 ambient you will need some sort of cooling to keep it at 69.

264
Beer Recipes / Re: What makes a recipe "yours"?
« on: March 02, 2012, 06:20:04 AM »
It's your recipe when you create it. Otherwise it's your version based on someone else's recipe. If you are unsure whether its yours or not, then it is not yours. The end product is always uniquely yours.(unless you did a group brew)

265
Beer Recipes / Re: Over Hopped AIPA?
« on: February 23, 2012, 10:31:13 AM »
SSOS is that sam smith's oatmeal stout???


266
All Grain Brewing / Re: water/grist ratio and efficiency
« on: February 19, 2012, 10:56:09 AM »
after reading this thread and lamenting my own mash inefficiencies, I decided to up my ratio yesterday.  it made no effect.

15.5 pounds of grain, beersmith recommended 19.38 quarts of water.  I always round up to the nearest gallon anyway (five), but I figured I'd bump it up to a full 24 quarts.  still stuck at 60%.  granted, that's still only ~1.5 qt/pound.  maybe today I'll get it closer to 1.75 qt/pound and see if that helps?

edit: my mash temp was a spot on 150 deg and 5.3 pH at the start, I stirred several times throughout, and ended up at 148 by the end of the sixty minute mash. I sparged with 185 degree water and noticed the sparge was only 165, so maybe that was part of my problem?  initial runoff was 1.060m OG after boil was 1.066.

Have you tried adding a half hour to your mash time? It will tell you right away if its your crush. And it's the easiest thing to do -which is nothing- for 30 minutes.

267
All Grain Brewing / Re: Cutting a Hoppy Recipe in half- Dales Clone
« on: February 18, 2012, 07:34:30 AM »
Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Wyeast 1272
Yeast Starter: Of Course
Batch Size (Gallons): 11
Original Gravity: 1.060
Final Gravity: 1.012
IBU: 42.6
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 11.3
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 7 @ 66
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 @ <70

Dale's Pale Ale

A ProMash Recipe Report

BJCP Style and Style Guidelines
-------------------------------

10-A American Ale, American Pale Ale

Min OG: 1.045 Max OG: 1.060
Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 54
Min Clr: 5 Max Clr: 14 Color in SRM, Lovibond

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 11.00 Wort Size (Gal): 11.00
Total Grain (Lbs): 24.50
Anticipated OG: 1.060 Plato: 14.84
Anticipated SRM: 11.3
Anticipated IBU: 42.6
Brewhouse Efficiency: 75 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Gallons Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 26.00 Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.026 SG 6.46 Plato

Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
65.3 16.00 lbs. Crisp Maris Otter Britain 1.036 4
28.6 7.00 lbs. Munich Malt Germany 1.037 8
6.1 1.50 lbs. Crystal 60L America 1.034 60

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 oz. Northern Brewer Whole 9.00 17.4 60 min.
1.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 5.7 30 min.
0.50 oz. Columbus Whole 15.00 7.4 30 min.
1.00 oz. Centennial Whole 10.50 5.4 15 min.
1.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.75 1.9 5 min.
1.00 oz. Columbus Whole 15.00 4.8 5 min.


Yeast
-----

WYeast 1272 American Ale II

Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Single Step

Grain Lbs: 24.50
Water Qts: 28.44 - Before Additional Infusions
Water Gal: 7.11 - Before Additional Infusions

Qts Water Per Lbs Grain: 1.16 - Before Additional Infusions

Saccharification Rest Temp : 156 Time: 60
Mash-out Rest Temp : 168 Time: 10
Sparge Temp : 170 Time: 35 
 

__________________
Desert Sky Brewing Co.
Sierra Vista, AZ


268
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: centennial hops
« on: February 14, 2012, 03:56:41 PM »
Yes all of the above, and some Chinook too..

269
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: mr malty question
« on: February 14, 2012, 08:37:05 AM »
Yeah, I'm going to go with Mr. Malty. It is a calculator giving you results based on info you enter. What it's saying is 7 vials of that viability, which from the number I'm assuming is a few months old or close to the end of its shelf life. It only applies  for  7 vials of that age/viability, when you go to your brew store and get some fresh(er) vials that whole equation will change. I assume you don't have 7 vials about to expire???
 
It is a fun tool, play around and get a feel for how different variables affect your pitching potential. And as was mentioned earlier you can change your starter size, step up your starters and other options to fit your equipment. 


270
All Grain Brewing / Re: poor all grain efficiency, don't know why
« on: February 13, 2012, 12:03:28 PM »
It seems what I said wasn't very clear, but maybe others have clarified it.
Repo, you get how the extract efficiency is very tied to runoff efficiency and that is tied to how close you can get to 1.012 SG or whatever your normal cutoff is. More grain needs more rinsing, simple. Maybe your system has a quirk we could all learn from. Can you give us the mash weight, preboil/postboil volume and OG of a couple of different-strength recent brews?

No, alt10 clarified this for me with all things being equal. I understand what you  were saying now, was having trouble before. There is no quirk, I simply meant I could hit 80% with the 10 or 15 pound grain bill. I can change other variables to offset  that decrease in  efficiency with larger grain bills, ie fly sparge vs batch, step mashes, longer mashes or finer grinds, they all involve more time one way or another but help offset the ability to only go so far with my setup. Yes if I did those things with the 10 pound grain bill it would soar much higher than the 15 pounds.  I used to do identical small mashes with 1st runnings to get enough for a barley wine, and tried finding a way to make it quicker.  I can still give you some numbers still if you like. :)

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