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Messages - repo

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271
Equipment and Software / Re: Plastic bucket vs. glass carboy
« on: February 09, 2012, 12:06:01 PM »
Buckets don't scratch that easily unless you abuse them. And I'll overlook blemishes. Used buckets benefit from an overnight caustic soak like PBW to get the stains and residual aroma out. I use sodium hydroxide but oxyclean also works well if used properly.

And another benefit is that I've drilled out a 1" hole in my fermenting buckets to allow a plastic spigot. Voila! No siphoning just gravity. I haven't siphoned once in five years.

Take care of your buckets and they'll take care of you. ;)

Can you use a standard(green/yellow) with the rough(green) side to scrub them clean. And how high from the bottom of the bucket- say a six gallon one-  would you center the hole for your spigots?

272
Equipment and Software / Re: Plastic bucket vs. glass carboy
« on: February 09, 2012, 09:50:38 AM »
Just curious, as I 've seen different opinions on this, but how how ferments will you use the same bucket for????
I started with carboys for t he first 4-5 years I brewed.  AFter breaking 3 of them and losing 10 gal. of double decocted pils, I went to buckets and never looked back.  I find buckets easier to use, easier to clean, and take up less storage room.  In addition, they're unbreakable.

273
The Pub / Re: Compact fluorescent bulbs
« on: February 07, 2012, 03:53:19 PM »
I've had pretty much the same experience, don't know if they  burn out or what. But most  have been going strong for years, maybe quality control is an issue. They sure save energy when they work. I got mine in Cali when the state was giving huge refunds because of they have energy issues there, so they weren't expensive.  I saw Ed Begley jr with the diodes and he was giving away his cfl's. Disposale is a hassle in RI too.

274
Kegging and Bottling / Re: HopRocket Randall Foam & Stopped
« on: February 06, 2012, 03:35:30 PM »
The 1st few pints are foamier as it's purging the air (and co2 if you purged the rocket prior to filling). The hoprocket should be in the fridge the same temp as the beer to minimize foaming. It can hold up to 40 psi.

275
The Pub / Re: The OFFICIAL AHA 4M's NFL BULL SH$%^&TER'S THREAD!
« on: February 06, 2012, 02:06:16 PM »
Yeah its hard to win when you can't tape the other teams practices. ;) The defense gave up only 19 points, maybe some tweaks on offense are in order, although Gronk wasn't right. The pats did only beat one winning team, thanks Lee Evans >:(

276
General Homebrew Discussion / Rhode Island Home Brew Laws
« on: February 05, 2012, 05:23:38 PM »
I have some friends who are getting married and they have asked if I and 3 others would make a 5 gallon batch for consumption at the reception. Does anyone know if that is legal or where to find that information out.  They have a friend licensed to serve alcohol who will man the beverage station. It will be at a rented facility. Thanks.

277
The Pub / Re: Brewery update
« on: February 02, 2012, 07:15:46 PM »
Looking like high times ahead, roll tide ;D

278
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: High Fermentation Temp Question
« on: February 01, 2012, 07:02:48 AM »
Wow thanks for the insight, I had read palmers byo article, jamil and chris's yeast book, gordon strongs book and palmers book. And I still learn all the time. I never recommended fermenting at high temps or said it was a good idea. I don't know where commercial brewing practices came into a thread about a guy making his 2nd batch of beer. I merely say that hitting a temp a few degrees above the "optimum" range is not reason to worry. Should you avoid that?? Absolutely.  He didn't ask that, it seems that is understood hence the reasoning for the first question.He didn't even have a dark place to ferment. And as to wl and wyeast's temps- what do you think a person on their 2nd brew is doing? Pitching a vial or 2 long before considering getting throughly involved in starters, pitching rates, viability etc. And that person needs to follow the manufacturers instructions. You don't teach people to swim by pushing them in the deep end. Thanks for taking the time to educate me though.

279
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: High Fermentation Temp Question
« on: January 31, 2012, 08:12:49 PM »
   

Again I don't have the yeast or ale type info, but if wlp-001 with recommended temp of 70-75  for fermentation was used. Tom you believe that going 2 degrees above that would be cause for concern?

I'm not Tom, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn last night. Actually, that's a load of crap. i slept at home last night. But I can tell you that fermentation temp, including pitching temp, is extremely important to the final outcome of the beer quality. You want to be sure to pitch enough yeast, at the proper temps, and then maintain those temps. White Labs and Wyeast both have "recommended temp ranges" and personally I would recommend throwing them out the window or going with the very coolest, or a few degrees cooler than they suggest. This is assuming you are pitching enough yeast and aerating.

All that said, I'm not suggesting the beer is ruined. Only that it could possibly be better. I certainly wouldn't worry too much now, nor would I dump it. A little age will help mellow any fusels that may have developed.

I'd be willing to bet you will both be pleasantly surprised at how well it turns out.
temp control here is very important for best results. That said I'm sure his beer will be fine.
There are a myriad of things to be done to create the best beer possible.  I can't seem to find any text or other prominent document that say s anything but 80 degrees being the threshhold to stay under. As well as ther being a number of other causes of fusel alcohols. Now I know your feelings about the "experts" opinions and while I find your distrust of wyeast and white labs disconcerting at best. Personal experience does hold more clout. I do wonder how such business's can not only be profitable but even remain in business when they are so misinformed about their own products. I guess all those phd's and labratories were just a waste of time and money.  I am always interested in learning more.

280
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: High Fermentation Temp Question
« on: January 31, 2012, 05:33:11 PM »
I think the box probably played a large role in getting it that warm.  Fusels are a concern, but it might be ok depending on the fermentation timeline, meaning did it get that hot slowly or was the bulk of the fermentation that warm?

Fermentation temp refers to the liquid, not ambient.  The beer is generally 2-6 degrees warmer in my experience, although others report larger increases.

Again I don't have the yeast or ale type info, but if wlp-001 with recommended temp of 70-75  for fermentation was used. Tom you believe that going 2 degrees above that would be cause for concern?

281
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: High Fermentation Temp Question
« on: January 31, 2012, 03:20:11 PM »
10 degrees is not out of the ordinary. The primary phase will heat up. I doubt the box did more than a degree or two at most. I don't know what yeast was used but I wouldn't worry about it. It's probably fine.

You want to keep the beer in the recommended temperature range for the yeast at least thru primary fermentation (3-5 days on average), temp control here is very important for best results. That said I'm sure his beer will be fine.

282
All Grain Brewing / Re: poor all grain efficiency, don't know why
« on: January 30, 2012, 02:17:45 PM »
. That would mean if I can get 1.050 from 10# with a 7g preboil, I should be able to get about 1.100 from 20# pulling 14g preboil.

HUH??? Typo somewhere???  ??? ???

Should be the same without accounting for grainbed depth factor. Rethink this.

I think he is saying that if he boiled that 7 or 14 gallons down to the same 5 gallons post boil. The idea being that if you can rinse with the same ratio of water to grain you should be able to avoid part of the efficiency loss to larger grain bills.

I don't think so. . I can get equal efficiency from 10 pounds or 15#'s of grain while collecting 8 gallons of total runnings.  While the size of my system will affect me at a point, if I doubled my mash tun size I would see the same results.  I think this is more to what is trying to be conveyed. The efficiency of your vessels, meaning you can only achieve your standard mash efficiency up to a certain amount of grain, before you need a larger system. On my system I am limited to about 1.065 og for 10 gallon batches before the limitations of my vessels crush my efficiency but I can hit 1.1 for 5 gallon batches. This is because a mash tun can only handle so much grain and mash water for the conversion, not because of the amount of sparge water. Though sparge water plays a role in efficiency.

283
All Grain Brewing / Re: poor all grain efficiency, don't know why
« on: January 30, 2012, 11:25:51 AM »
. That would mean if I can get 1.050 from 10# with a 7g preboil, I should be able to get about 1.100 from 20# pulling 14g preboil.

HUH??? Typo somewhere???  ??? ???

284
That's why they're called cheeseheads. But it's okay to hunt with AK47's.  New Glarus is a member.  This is criminal....

285
All Grain Brewing / Re: FWH's - minimum pre-boil addition timeframe
« on: January 29, 2012, 06:30:08 PM »
The FWH are generally added to the empty kettle and are steeped while the first runnings are added and then any sparge runnings. So how long they are in there is dependent on ones brew day schedule and recipe. The  concensus is that the ibu contribution is like that of a 20 minute addition. I usually get a half hour steep for mine before the wort begins to boil but have had quicker sparges and boils, I just note the time on each one in case I want to repeat it exactly. I know of no scientific evidence or studies conducted to determine the time of the steep relative to ibu contribution. Since projected ibu's and measured ibu's are different it might be extremely tedious and difficult to determine actual FWH ibu contributions at any time length.  Sounds like you liked the taste so just note it for future tests. Something to play with forever. ;D

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