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All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: October 22, 2013, 02:54:45 PM »
If your thermometer were off by 5 degrees, this could account for the attenuation. 

The more wort you collect the higher your efficiency will be and without boiling off the "excess" your og will be lower.

I would suspect that you are still getting conversion, which is mostly less fermentable due to the higher temps. Absolutely nothing wrong with 190ish sparge water.

You have not said: how hot the water is, how you sparge, how long you sparge, or what the difference in attenuation is. And I'm hoping you are using similar grain bills. This info would be key in really figuring out the issue.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Sparge temp
« on: October 22, 2013, 02:46:43 PM »
Out of curiosity are you washing/re-using your yeast? It might be that the harvested yeast is mutating over time and the overall attenuation is becoming an issue, just a thought............

I've had this issue with a couple strains that I frequently use and found that after 5-7 harvests the yeast begin to behave a little differently like less attenuation or lower flocculation, things like that, subtle but noticeable

White labs did a study of "chronic underaeration" and ^^^^ this was their findings, with noticeable differences by the 5th generation.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry hop transfer
« on: October 12, 2013, 02:59:23 PM »
What I would do is add your priming sugar to whatever the beer is in now, stir it in and let everything settle while you prep for bottling.  I never used a bottling bucket, just never saw the need. The bottling wand will catch a lot of the hops and may clog, but is easily rinsed.  Even better is to wrap a mesh bag around the bottom of your auto siphon and off you go. Nothing wrong with a little hop debris in the bottle and it will drop in fridge and can be left behind like the yeast when poured.

"Zymatic™ can brew up to 2.5 gallons finished beer across a very wide range of brewing systems. This is usually about 3 gallons of wort into the fermenter but depends on the recipe. The limitations are two-fold: grain capacity of the step filter, and water capacity of the keg/fermenter. For a lighter beer, its certainly possible to do a slightly larger batch. For extremely heavy beers you may get less than 2.5 gallons finished beer."
'When your beer has fermented you can either rack it (transfer the beer to another clean keg) or connect it directly to your kegerator pouring off the first several pints of trub."

Is this for real? Did you see all the 2.5 gallon kegs. In 3/1/2 hours time you net 2.5 gallons of beer. I bet I can beat that. This is so chock full of blatant lies and misconceptions, it's gotta be a joke.

Equipment and Software / Re: What is this?
« on: October 03, 2013, 05:07:18 PM »
I call it "wort film", because that is what it is like. I had beerstone and had a hard time diagnosing it because there is a lot of differing notions out there. I finally found one that described my problem exactly and was then able to get rid of it. Beerstone sucks, wort film is a non issue and easily cleaned. Like Denny , I wait a clean my kettles every six months or so.  I have used green scrubbies on all my stainless steel.

Equipment and Software / Re: What is this?
« on: October 03, 2013, 04:47:00 PM »
Beerstone is mostly calcium oxylate, which is hard like a stone. Therefore it is most easily removed by dissolving, instead of mechanically removing by hand. It is deposited onto the kettle surface during the boil and continues to be deposited through time, temperature and level of calcium available in the wort.

The brown stuff that forms in kettles is nothing like you describe for beerstone.  It is not hard like a stone and it is not difficult to remove by hand. The white stone like subatance that forms in fermentors and kegs, is exactly like you describe except it is formed on the cold side. Or are you saying it manifests itself in two different forms based on hot-side vs cold-side?

Equipment and Software / Re: What is this?
« on: October 03, 2013, 04:20:56 PM »
Yeah can't see anything. But that brown "layer" comes off very easy with some bar keepers friend. Beerstone is white and forms in kegs, aging and serving tanks tanks. It is scaly and very difficult to remove with bar keepers friend and seemingly impossible to remove with just elbow grease. The brown stains will come off with elbow grease. The brown stuff is often referred to as beer stone but I don't believe this is accurate. Maybe someone can tell us ?????

The Pub / Re: In need of some advice...
« on: September 30, 2013, 05:51:50 PM »
A real Giants fan would note that they are only 2 games out of first place with 12 to play(7 at home). As well as the fact that the last time they lost 4 straight, they won the super bowl.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Racking
« on: September 30, 2013, 05:46:06 PM »
I have a spigot/valve on all my fermenters. I attach a tube and mesh bag and open the valve, done. Got rid of all my carboys, my first or second favorite brewing omission, not bottling being the other. Simple and efficient.

Zymurgy / Re: Pliny the Elder: Worth the 45 minute drive?
« on: September 27, 2013, 09:55:21 PM »

Are you aware of that site^^^

Pliny the Elder-my favorite description,  "a license to print money"

IMO an excellent beer, but it's the driving home that makes me vote no.

From White Labs faqs.

Some homebrewers now want to pitch more yeast in 5 gallons then a pint starter. An often quoted number is to pitch 1 million cells/ml/degree Plato of beer, which equals about 250 billion cells for 5 gallons. That is okay, more cells are not detrimental until about 400 billion cells. For those that enjoy yeast culturing and want 250 billion cells, one vial can be added directly to 2 liters of wort starter, and after two days of incubation, will be equal to roughly 250 billion cells. Is this necessary? Every brewer will have a different opinion, but here is some information:

a. The source of the 1 million cells/ml/degree Plato figure: Professional brewery literature.
 Most professional breweries re-pitch their yeast because they have the fermentor design and facilities to reuse yeast. So most brewery pitches are actually re-pitches, and only 2-10% of brewery pitchings are using freshly propagated yeast. One of the main sources of contamination in a brewery is the pitching yeast. So in order to out-compete other organisms, large quantities of yeast must be pitched. When propagated by a professional yeast laboratory, the yeast is grown under sterile conditions, sterileoxygen and special nutrients are used to improve cell construction and performance. This does not occur in a brewery, so numbers they use to "pitch" take into account the inadequacy of their brewers yeast. The yeast is also unhealthy due to prolonged growth without oxygen and nutrients. In addition, brewers yeast will always contain some contaminants that need to be out-grown, and 1 million cells per ml per degree Plato has been found to be the best marriage of high pitching rates and no negative flavor effects (Higher pitching rates can lead to unhealthy yeast and a "yeasty" off bite). Liquid yeast grown by a professional laboratory should have no contaminants, so out competing contaminants found in the pitching yeast is not a concern.

One thing that contributes to flavor contribution in beer is yeast growth. If less yeast is pitched into beer, more yeast growth takes place, so more flavor compounds such as esters are produced. Depending on the amount produced, this is how pitching rates can have a direct effect on flavor profile. If 5 to 10 billion cells are pitched into wort, this definitely has a negative flavor impact in terms of higher ester levels and potential for bacterial contamination. But does a pint starter worth of yeast (30-50 billion cells) pitched into beer tasted different then 2 liters worth of yeast (250 billion cells)?

Equipment and Software / Re: Wort chiller
« on: September 24, 2013, 02:53:29 PM »
This is all very strange.  3/8" tubing is never more expensive than the 1/2" tubing.  The 1/2 " is larger than the 3/8" and will have a larger surface area in contact with the wort, chilling faster. I bought mine 4 months ago and it is the same price today, much cheaper than buying a premade one. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast harvesting and simple sugar
« on: September 23, 2013, 05:12:03 PM »
I have never heard of such a statement regarding repitching/harvesting yeast. However along those lines when making starters(growing yeast), the sugar needs to be maltose not simple sugar. According to Chris White,"yeast grown exclusively on simple sugar stop making the enzyme that enables them to break down maltose. Since wort is mainly maltose, fermenting it with yeast grown on simple sugar results in a beer that will not attenuate properly."

Commercial Beer Reviews / Another best beers list.
« on: September 21, 2013, 03:40:33 PM »
This one does an interesting take on forming the list.

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