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Messages - repo

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301
Double IPA sunday morning I hope :-\

302
As long as its ready by the time your pitchers report ;D

303
Had a Sculpin last night, it was malty and possibly bready/biscuity. Can't quite put my finger on it, sure didn't want to finish it. It was not at all close to what Sculpin is meant to taste like. It was definitely way past it's shelf life, and even though it was free I felt a huge letdown. Wish they'd put dates on their bottles not that it would have saved my friend from tyring to do something nice. It's the thought that counts.

304
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Homebrewer innovation : Mass bottle sanitizer
« on: January 18, 2012, 11:07:14 AM »
Anybody have suggestions on this front?  Most of my bottles are pretty nasty and don't get rinsed right after emptying.

Suggestion #1 would be to do something about the above

I make it a discipline to leave the empties by the sink and either rinse them on the fly or in the morning next day. Really this is the best approach. Then all I have to do is rinse any dust out before sanitizing.



+1  Its too easy to just rinse it quickly after the pour.

305
The Pub / Re: What's the Weather Like Where You Are?
« on: January 18, 2012, 11:01:55 AM »
It's England again except now, the flowers are starting to come up a month early for some, two months for others. I guess once they bloom, it will dump snow, freeze and then kill off spring.

We call that an "Indian Spring"!
Somehow, that sounds much more insulting than "Indian Summer" does.

+1

306
The Pub / Re: A bonding moment......
« on: January 18, 2012, 10:45:28 AM »
"Napalm and Silly Putty" is a staple in our throne room :)  He had a mastery of words and word play that was genius.

307
All Grain Brewing / Re: What happened?
« on: January 16, 2012, 12:48:45 PM »
 

I am very likely using incorrect terminology however. If you collect 9 gallons and boil down to 5.5 or you collect 8 gallons and boild down to 5.5 I don't think it follows that your OG would be identical. That would only be true if the extra gallon collected was pure water with 0 sugars. you WILL leave some sugars behind in the mash. if you sparge more you will get more of them thus your ending 5.5 gallons will have a higher gravity than if you sparge less. This is why you lose efficiency if you do a no-sparge brew you are leaving more sugars behind.

 


Well actually it is more about what efficiency means. Or about how you determine efficiency.   Then the doors of perception will open. At 75% efficiency you can collect 8 or 80 gallons it is the preboil gravity which changes. When you boil that 8 or 80 gallons down to the same final amount, say 5.5 gallons you will have the same post boil gravity. You see the efficiency is fixed, the volume you collect is part of the equation to determine efficiency as is the preboil gravity.  It's like yogi berra said about his pizza you better just cut it into 6 pieces I don't think I could eat 8 ;D

308
All Grain Brewing / Re: What happened?
« on: January 16, 2012, 11:28:00 AM »
 but your extract probably wasn't much higher. you just got more of the sugars. That's my guess anyway
[/quote]

Isn't that a contradiction???


I brewed a Helles yesterday using 10lbs total grist and ended up with 5.5gal at 1.054. I am not surprised that you started at 1.060 using 10.5lbs of grain. Your efficiency was pretty good.

Some things that could have increased your efficiency are your crush, conversion time and temp, grist, mash pH, etc... Are you sure that your weights were accurate?

+1

You need to measure your preboil volume and gravity to assess your efficiency. Whether you collect 9 gallons or eight and boil it down to 5.5 it will still have the same OG, there is only so much sugar to extract, and the runnings will have  less and less to extract the more you take. Efficiency is how you extract more sugar from a mash and it is tied to the mash and sparge volumes With no stuck mashes I don't think too fine a grind could be called a "problem".  A lot more information is needed to find your answer.

309
The Pub / Re: The OFFICIAL AHA 4M's NFL BULL SH$%^&TER'S THREAD!
« on: January 15, 2012, 08:02:47 AM »
  Turns out that for some reason the DVR did not record 30 minute extension I programmed it to record.  Not on the backup DVR in the bedroom either.

 Still can't believe I didn't get to watch the last 2 minutes of what was certainly the best game of the post season, quite probably of the entire season.   >:(


Actually it did record the extra 30 minutes, the game went about 45 minutes long >:(

310
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Old Rasputin
« on: January 11, 2012, 03:42:21 PM »
4 Pack and not cheap..

311
The Pub / Re: Some Days Are Better Than Others.
« on: January 11, 2012, 09:01:33 AM »
Are you at Roseanne's house again?

312
You got it, if you like washing dishes you might like homebrewing. :) Also I forgot to mention to boil the water you need to top off with and store in sanitized container till you need it. Do it a day or two before and it will be cooled nicely. Also leave behind the trub/yeast/hop matter on bottom of fermenter when siphoning out.

313
Let me note that santitation is extremely important. Let me note that sanitation is extremely important and everything needs to be clean. The boil is sanitizing but anything you touch after that must be sanitized. 14 days is very general, sanitarily siphon some beer back to back days (maybe 12 and 13) and make sure there has been no change in gravity this insures fermentation is over- exploding bottles would be highly probable if it were not complete prior to bottling.

314
How to Brew is a great reference, read over the sections pertaining to your intended method a few times. You gotta brew it to really learn it. But here are some quick answers for you, btw don't know how big your kettle is. But smash that grain however you can while keeping it somewhat intact(you dont want flower, but you want the husk broken open). The plastic bag method keeps it in an easier to contain smashable object so you can easily pour it into your mesh bag. Tie it shut and steep that pound in 3/4 gallon h2o, shoot for 160 but must stay between 150-170, for 1/2 hour then remove bag draining it without really squeezing it. Add it to 2plus gallons water for your boil(don't know your brewpot size). Bring to boil remove form heat and stir in 1 can extract and dme, thoroughly dissolve and return to heat and regain boil. Note soak that liquid extract in hot/warm water to make it easier to remove from can- extracts make a sticky mess. Be on top of your pot as it begins to reboiol as you'll need to stir like mad as the hot break occurs and foams over your stove with a sticky mess. A minute or so and this subsides then I would add your first hop addition and begin your 60 minute boil. Add that last can of extract at end of 60 minutesand stir in removed from heat, then cool however you can to pitching temp.(Now take a gravity reading-use the tube  hte hydrometer came with.)  Which should be in yeasts range and in the range you will keep it in. Pour it into carboy vigorously and shake it up some this will be enough aeration. Then add the yeast. Do not transfer it to secondary(fiddle with that in later batches if you want). In 14 days or so you'll be ready to bottle take a gravity reading from beer as you rack it to bottling bucket(bucket will priming sugar at room temp in it and will mix in during transfer. Boil 2 cups h20 and priming sugar then cool to room temp. Anything in contact with wort after boil must be sanitized. Avoid aeration  or oxygen exposure after fermentation begins. These are basic instructions ot help you get thru 1st batch. Good Luck, you will learn with every batch. I'm sure I missed something..

315
I'd go with aluminum 40qt at a minimum and drill out the holes with a step bit. Then install the weld-less fittings. It's what I did for my 80qt. The valve and thermometer are probably worth $40 alone.

http://www.instawares.com/stock-pots.6853.3.6853.0.0.8.htm

IMO 30qt is too small for a full boil for a 5 gallon batch. That is a thumbs down.


+1     It's a pricy purchase, get what you'll need in a year or two. Full boil,trub loss, hop loss, future hopback hop loss. You could be looking at 8 gallon boils in no time- to end up with 5 gallons to drink, depending on your system. Harbor Freight has step bits for 12ish $ and  lots of places less than 20$ for a kettle valve and your in business. Why waste a thermometer on  your brew kettle? Great for mash tun or hlt but brew kettle-not necessary(and you'll want a bigger mash tun for sure). Check out bayou classic for stock pots. Farmhouse brew supply also has decent $ kettles

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