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Messages - repo

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46
Competed and I agree that some of the questions are a bit to broad:)

If the goal is to design a dedicated fermentation chamber then the questions should be more focused on that aspect like size, cost, means of temp control and ease of use, range of desire able temps, etc.

I agree with this.  If I already have a used refrigerator with a temperature controller, I'm not sure I would I want to pay for something else unless I could see the advantages.

"Would you purchase a unique fermentation vessel in which you could accurately and consistently control the temperature during the fermentation process, including the ability to lager?  *"

"How much would you be willing to pay for the aforementioned fermentation vessel?  *"

Sounds to me like they want to design fermenters which can be controlled individually. More beer has some, but they are crazy $$$.I do like that they maxed out the how much have you spent on brewing equipment at 400$ ::)

48
Considering you can go all grain for less than the cost of 1 keg, I don't see the dilemma. I mean if you can afford to get into kegging, buy 1 less keg and go all grain too.

49
Equipment and Software / Re: opinions on which conical is better solicited
« on: September 05, 2013, 08:06:07 AM »
My question is, all things being the same, why is temperature control a problem with a conical but not with a bucket?

I believe what the person who made that comment was referring to was the size and shape of the conical. It does not easily conform to the usual fridge/freezer options for temperature control. It does require more space and lifting it into or out of a freezer is not an option, and it is too tall for most fridges.  I have not noticed any difference in the temperature of the beer when fermenting side by side, a bucket and conical.

50
Yeast and Fermentation / Don't buy that stir plate
« on: August 31, 2013, 09:28:12 AM »
. A yeast starter is made by scooping out a cup or two of your wort into a sanitized container about half way through the boiling time. A plastic cup or Tupperware type container will work just fine. You cool it down to around 75° or the optimal temerature for pitching your yeast, just as you would cool your full pot of wort. Then, you add the yeast package to it and wait. In about 30 or 40 minutes you’ll begin to see some action in your wort cup, some foaming and churning. This means the yeast cells are happy and beginning to multiply. When your boil is done, you cool your wort to the correct temperature and pour in the slurry. Now, you will have added more cells than were originally in the package and fermentation will be a bit more efficient. You can also wait up to 24 hours before pitching the starter at which point you should have about 6 times the original number of yeast cells.


This is from the FAQ section of a on-line home brew shop. They prefer to "make a starter" for dry yeasts. Clearly your wasting time and money propagating yeast when it is just that easy.  :o

I had a good laugh at most of their (mis)information.

51
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: dry yeast question
« on: August 25, 2013, 10:04:23 AM »
so i brewed two days ago. ground water wouldn't get me to pitching temps, which is fine as i planned on letting wort chill the rest of the way in the ferm chamber anyway. and i did.

i rehydrated yeast yesterday and nothing was happening after 24 hours+.

today i sprinkled another pack of us05 into the wort and have very good things going on now.

i rehydrated the yeast at 105. followed reliable directions for it and still had nothing. it's an american wheat similar to gumballhead(which i've never actually had). within a few hours of pitching dry yeast today, fermentation is taking off.

i guess my question is, did i do the right thing? i've never rehydrated yeast before. i usually use wyeast 1056 and make a starter, but was a little confused as to why fermentation didn't take off with the rehydrated us05. brew day was off a little as i haven't brewed in a while but process was still pretty solid.

cheers and thanks.

I have done both and not found any discernible difference. I haven't rehydrated in years, but when I did it was as per Fermentis 80 +/- 6 degrees.  I have also never had dry yeast take of within a few hours, always several hours and later. I think your original pitch was starting to work.

I have also tried the starter vs straight vial and found no discernible difference. There are lots of situations where making a starter is not necessary, just as there are lots of situations where making one is necessary. 


52
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Refrigerator or chest freezer?
« on: August 16, 2013, 09:39:51 PM »
I like my fermentation "closet" cooled by an a/c unit. Build it to size/fit what you want/need. I had the a/c unit, so it was wood and insulation and screws 30$ or so for mine.
Repo
Would like to see pictures of your setup. Maybe post one or link to one that is up?
https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/q71/s320x320/1170886_498452870241586_1033276336_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/q71/s320x320/999599_498463366907203_101578312_n.jpg

https://sphotos-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/q77/s320x320/9347_498463603573846_302569114_n.jpg

Here are a few shots, I can squeeze four 5 gallon batches in there. I will make it bigger next time, didn't want to go nuts in a rental

53
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Refrigerator or chest freezer?
« on: August 16, 2013, 03:53:14 PM »
I like my fermentation "closet" cooled by an a/c unit. Build it to size/fit what you want/need. I had the a/c unit, so it was wood and insulation and screws 30$ or so for mine.

54
Repo bottom line...would you pay 200 to 300 dollars difference for a Blichmann?

No I don't think I would. It's like getting a Mercedes vs an average car, one is just nicer. But if money were no object, I'd go with the best.I got mine for about 275$ each after shipping. I'm sure  I could get close to that selling them now after 2 years. Kinda like kegs I think they will hold their value if not increase as stainless steel becomes more and more expensive.  Yeah the co2 push is another benefit , I don't need it with mine but anything bigger and it would be an absolute must.

55
I have 2 of the 7.3 stout conicals. I got them off ebay brand new for a pretty good deal. I've had them for a couple years now. Here are my thoughts. They are manufactured in China, Stout is not the manufacturer. I have never lost beer or had to have any work done on them. I have had to file done some sharp edges here and there. They are not high quality built products. They are not terrible either. I have fermometers on both of them and they work perfectly-3$ each. I set them on a counter to rack. 

The only benefit I find is the ability to dump/harvest yeast easily. If money were no object, I don't know that I would buy more. Buckets are easier to clean, sanitize and stack/store, or get into a fridge. I don't want to dissuade you but just offer my experience and feeling about them. They are very cool to look at.

56
Beer Recipes / Re: Hopstand & Dry Hop IPA
« on: August 13, 2013, 11:33:24 AM »
Thanks for the info. Sounds like it works well.  No pump for me, I think I'll try it in a pale ale first and go from there.

57
Beer Recipes / Re: Hopstand & Dry Hop IPA
« on: August 13, 2013, 08:33:13 AM »

I do a hop stand/whirlpool beer where I add all the hops at flame out. My point was that the temp drop would be well below 185F before the 90 min. was reached ,so no more isomrization at that point.

How is the bitterness in the beers when you do this? Do you have a guesstimate of ibus?

58
Beer Recipes / Re: Hopstand & Dry Hop IPA
« on: August 12, 2013, 09:54:22 PM »

Where/how are you getting hop stand ibus equal to 30 minutes in the boil? This is probably around 25% less ibus than if you dropped them in the boil for 90 minutes. This might be a good one to get measured in the lab.

Mainly from experience on other brews. My rule of thumb with my system is to use 1/3 the length of the hop stand. It generally gets me in the ballpark with other brews that use a more sane amount of hops.

From everything I've heard, actual IBU's in finished beer top off somewhere between 100 and 150. Needless to say I'm probably maxed out on this one. Really, beyond 80 IBU's or so the calculated IBU's are really only for "my IPA is bigger than yours" bragging rights. Still, depending on my yield, I may just have to send a sample off for evaluation.


Okay, that seems like it could work out. I just always felt it added 10- 20 ibus from my 0 min hops if not the whole hopstand(avg 30 min).   I always have a bunch of 15 minute and or later hops in there also, and usually well into or beyond that 100-150 possibility mark with zero ibus calculated from the 0 minute addition. It would be very interesting to see some actual lab results. After dry hopping you might not wanna part with one.

Think I have to pull the trigger on that fwh/O minute  ipa and see how it works. With only a smudge of extra bitterness available from fwh , the rest would have to come from the hopstand.

Not being able to recirculate seems like it could detract a good bit, as that agitation could really help isomerization.  Very curious to hear how bitter and tasty this turns out.

59
Beer Recipes / Re: Hopstand & Dry Hop IPA
« on: August 12, 2013, 02:07:34 PM »
Where/how are you getting hop stand ibus equal to 30 minutes in the boil? This is probably around 25% less ibus than if you dropped them in the boil for 90 minutes. This might be a good one to get measured in the lab.

60
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Home Brew Supply Startup
« on: August 12, 2013, 09:36:45 AM »
What may be more useful for you is why I don't use the two LHBS near me very often (I do about 95% of my grain, hops and liquid yeast purchases online). First of all, neither one is open convenient hours. They are both open a handful of weekday nights and limited weekend hours. They just aren't really useful given my work and family schedule. One of them is run by a guy who is a bit of a know-it-all, but gives out a lot of outdated info. The other one is often staffed by people who don't seem to know a hell of a lot regarding their ingredients. The main reason I do shop at either is if I need a last-minute ingredient. All too often they don't have what I'm looking for in those situations, either. And neither shop stocks Wyeast, which is annoying, too.

My ideal LHBS would be a place that is open normal business hours, and run by knowledgeable, helpful staff. A good selection, including both White Labs and Wyeast, is a big plus as well.

LOL, I know those two shops. I had some great quotes from the know it all guy, One I will always remember - Amarillo is from Texas and it's had to grow a lot there so it's in short supply.  He also looked at me as if I had said I'd seen an alien when I mentioned making a starter.

I would rather shop locally but when I can get a sack of grain delivered to my house for 20$ less than going to pick it up, game over.  Keeping prices competitive is paramount for me. I will spend a few dollars more with someone I like. I pay a little more for my yeast now, but I get it from white labs tasting room.

Provide a good price and selection of the items it costs more to ship and you can get people in the door. Then you can start developing relationships


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