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Messages - repo

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 09, 2013, 08:06:43 PM »
I would try it first but if you really want to get into it. I assume it is your only keg at the moment. Turn the pressure back up to 20-25 ish, then turn the gas back down a bunch. Shake it and watch the needle drop slowly back down. This will indicate that the beer is absorbing the co2, if it happens quickly you are not that close, if it happens slowly you are getting close. Turn the gas back up and do it again, probably reducing how much above serving pressure you want to go to avoid over carbing. You can do this a few times and get pretty close to where you want to be.  Over carbing and sending beer up the co2 line are the problems.   Here is a link that has some useful tips and charts.  Being able to immediately carb is one of the many benefits, but nothing wrong with waiting.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Am I being impatient?
« on: August 09, 2013, 06:59:59 PM »
What was the beer temp when you were shaking it and how long did you shake it? Once the beer is at serving temperature, I can generally carb it in 3-5 minutes of shaking at 25 psi or 10-15 minutes at serving pressure 10 psi.

Let me tell you 3-5 minutes shaking a full 5 gallon keg is a long time. Also how full it was comes into play some too as the more head room the quicker you can get it done.  I will usually keg it at night, shake it the next morning when it's at serving temperature and drink it that evening after any sediment is settled.

If you already have the beer at serving temperature, you can absolutely have it carbed to desired volumes of co2 and ready to drink in less than 20 minutes.

Beer Recipes / Re: Stone to increase Ruination by .5%
« on: August 09, 2013, 06:31:37 PM »
I never have. I can tell you that after drinking several bottles locally, then getting it on tap from the source I will never buy a bottled one again. Liberty station was okay, compared to the Escondido facility it isn't remotely close to as cool. There is still a lot going on with the project though and it is only about ten minutes away from me. There are well over 100 ipas being made in the county now, and I'm not sure if ruination makes my top ten anymore.

The Pub / Re: Question to the kids about how to use the facebooks
« on: August 04, 2013, 05:02:03 PM »
1. There are privacy settings- one will show everything to anyone , the other will only show your information to people you have friended
2. They may notice that you are not on their list of friends anymore, but they don't get a notice. I don't know this for sure- I don't think I have been unfriended by anyone.
3.This will depend on their privacy settings-see #1

Absolutely turn your privacy settings on to where you feel comfortable. There is a private message that can be sent that will only be seen by that person, it will not show anywhere on their page for anyone regardless of their settings. 

When you do like or comment on something, it can be seen by all of that persons friends, and if one of those friends also comments it can be seen by all of that persons friends too. So it can get around quick.

I would suggest you start a yellowhammer page. You can give out tons of info that way. Come on you are not that old.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Efficiency Problem
« on: August 03, 2013, 06:25:25 PM »

The other problem could be volume.  What was your post-boil volume?  For example, if this was a 5-gallon recipe but you ended up with 6 gallons of wort, then your efficiency will be way off if it was calculated assuming you would end up with 5 gallons.  Volume measurements are crucial for nailing efficiency.

By the way... I mash 40 minutes, and I still get efficiencies hovering around 90%.  Mash time has very little to do with it.

I'm sure you mean that your og will be way off, not your efficiency. If you get 300 gravity points, the efficiency will not change because those 300 points are in 5 or 6 gallons, og of 1.06 and 1.05 respectively.

Time is important especially when you have a bad crush, you need more time for conversion to occur so you can rinse the sugars. If the op has not reached full conversion time can improve efficiency.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold crash or not?
« on: July 23, 2013, 05:23:35 PM »
Blatz, LOL very funny.

Mort, I refridgerated a gallon once for three days, it did not carbonate before three weeks time, at which point they were all gone. The rest of that batch was carbonated fully  at about day 5. It was a 1.063 ale with us-05.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold crash or not?
« on: July 23, 2013, 03:57:55 PM »
.  I'm thinking about leaving it in the primary for another week and then racking into my 6 gallon secondary and then sticking it in the fridge (38 deg. F) for another two or three days prior to adding my priming sugar and bottling.  Will the be any benefit to doing this or am I just wasting time with the time in the fridge?  Will there still be enough viable yeast in solution to ensure carbonization?

huh?  he's talking about cold crashing (either in primary or secondary) before bottling.  not sure what you're missing.

?????? I guess the part where he cold crashes then transfers. Still missing it ;-)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold crash or not?
« on: July 23, 2013, 03:45:51 PM »
Will there still be enough viable yeast in solution to ensure carbonization?

sure - unless you filter it out, there will still be enough.  bear in mind, you will need to let the bottled beer sit at room temp in order to carbonate though.

good luck!

No, you will need to add yeast back to the beer. 2-3 days at 38 should drop most all of the yeast out of suspension, this works great for filtering out yeast and "clearing" the beer.  If you bottle from this vessel you could rouse the yeast back into suspension while mixing in the sugar, but I don't know how well this would work at 38 degrees.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Cold crash or not?
« on: July 23, 2013, 03:33:06 PM »
Will the be any benefit to doing this or am I just wasting time with the time in the fridge? 

The benefit will be less transferred sediment/trub, so long as you don't foul it up by majorly disturbing the trub layer on the bottom of the fermenter when racking.  So you in theory will have clear-er beer.  However, would I personally do this for an oatmeal stout, which I am assuming is nearly opaque black?  No i wouldn't waste time on that, but i nice IPA or dortmunder export, yeah, I would go the extra step.

Don't know how you will get less sediment/trub  transferred by putting it in the fridge after you transfer it. Cold crashing before you transfer would be they way to go. In this case it would be a waste of your time.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Carbonation
« on: July 16, 2013, 04:25:26 PM »

Can't comment on the Beerstones but regarding the CO2, yes, as we know there are different levels of CO2 in the beer dependent upon temperature of the beer. Colder beer will retain higher levels of CO2 than warmer beer. This is why, when priming, it is important to factor beer temp for the sugar calculation.  When you take a bottle of beer that has been conditioning at 70+ for a few weeks and then open it warm there is the possibility that the bottle will gush because the CO2 has not been full absorbed into the beer (it may happen, it may not). If the beer is then refrigerated for a few days the beer will absorb the CO2 more readily and stabilize in the beer.

This is all my understanding as relayed over the years by people more knowledgeable than I. I only bottle and always have and these are also my experiences.

This is not how it works. When priming it is important to know the highest temperature the beer got to, as that will determine the co2 still in the beer. If it hit 72 and you bottle it at 60, it will not have magically absorbed co2 back into solution at the 60 level. The open beer on the counter overnite will not regain it's carbonation by putting it in the fridge. Pressure is the factor you are missing.

At a given pressure, a beer at 40 will have more co2 than a beer at 70. If I have a properly carbonated lager and an ale served at 35, they will not have the same co2 level because they are the same temperature. The lager will be at a higher pressure and therefore have more co2 in solution.

Also when you are naturally carbonating a beer the co2 is being produced IN solution, not forced into solution. When the pressure in the bottle equalizes, the co2 in solution can no longer escape and remains in the beer until that pressure is released. When you chill the beer, pressure drops as temperature drops so there is no more co2 "forced" into solution.  It is the drop in pressure as well as the colder beers ability to hold onto co2 which helps to "stabilize" the beer and make it easier to pour, as well as a couple other factors. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Carbonation
« on: July 16, 2013, 02:03:57 AM »
We have found that after our beer has been bottled for several months that it has a very large head on it when we pour. It doesn't matter how slow we pour or how angled the glass is - it foams up like crazy. Are we doing something wrong or does this happen often with natural carbonation?

Have these bottles been in the fridge for at least a few days to force the CO2 into the beer? If not try that. Otherwise the beer is either well over carbonated   

So over or under carbonating will cause gushers???? I just can't wrap my head around that logic. My flat beer doesn't ever gush.  Where does the chill for two days to force co2 into the beer come from?

Also I have had beerstone at the homebrew level.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation By-Products? Advice Please
« on: June 24, 2013, 07:35:24 PM »
First off you have less than 1 ounce of flavor/aroma hops total in this beer. I would get 2 ounces of cascade in the kettle and another ounce dry hopping.

This beer I believe is closer to 10% crystal 60, which should get color and malt profile closer.

Also you sure could have overpitched this beer. 1.5 liter starter on a stir plate for 3 gallons of 1.054 beer is overkill. This could be biggest impact but the first two are gonna play into the finished beer as well.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Zymurgy Top-Ranked Beers
« on: June 21, 2013, 03:50:15 PM »
Have to admit, I love Pliny, think 2 Hearted is "OK" and find DFH 90 minute pretty much undrinkable. Obviously Pliny gets the vote because of the legend and 2 Hearted because of its ubiquitousness and 90 minute because apparently a lot of people don't really know what a good IPA is supposed to taste like ... :P

+1  I was convinced Bell's thought ipa meant imperial pale ale. I love the west coast bias too when 3 of top 4 are from east. I use peoples opinions of what is good simply to decide if I will try anything they recommend or try the opposite. This list is 90% opposite for me.

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