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Messages - gimmeales

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16
well said, Skyler - don't know why I wasn't thinking about that.  Mouthfeel and flavor compounds sometimes dramatically affect taste.

I'm reminded of a filtered bottle of Gulden Draak in a promotional Belgian Beer Pack that was decidedly lifeless compared to the bottle conditioned versions I've had.  Then there's my recent toasted Malt Amber that lost some nice complexity after it cleared - wasn't bad bright, but the change was noticeable.

17
Thanks for the info Kieth - I will give this one a couple weeks in the fridge and hit it with gelatin as I would like to see it sparkling clear.  Just didn't know if traditionally the clarity was a presentation thing, or if as with lagers, flavor development during cold storage was a required attribute of the finished beer.  I'm guessing some of both

and Dave, just fyi - I'm doing a run of Danstar beers (2 with Windsor, 2 with Notty) just to compare to Fermentis products and have had excellent results.  They have also changed up their packaging which I heard was a part of their improved QC processes.  I do hear you on having US-05 around though - an awesome and easy yeast to use.

18
Well, that is good to know - think I'll still stick with the 1007 this time around since I've never used it, but in case of an emergency, good to know 1056 will do the job!

More of a style-specific conditioning question Denny, but do you just cold crash your Alts to clear them, use finings, drink it cloudy?  I was shooting for clear, so was planning on using finings, but if extended cold-conditioning improves the flavor, then I may skip that step and let the yeast do it's thing.

19
Well, that was easy - I now have no reasonable defense for taking the easy way out of this one with the dry yeast.  Thanks for holding me accountable guys - 1007 it is!  :)

20
Putting together a traditional Dusseldorf Alt to be brewed this weekend.  Actually, by the time I use the Hallertau I have, might be pushing into Sticke territory with hop-profile.  Was curious if spending the extra $ and 'trouble' to build a starter with WY1007 \WLP036 would be worthwhile over using some Nottingham I already have?

Everything I read is that  the German yeasts are clean, moderately attenuative, and low floccing - pretty similar, if not identical to what I get out of Nottingham which can also ferment on the low temp range.  I will probably mash higher if using the Notty due to it's higher attentuation.

Hoping to hear of experiences with both - thanks!

21
Equipment and Software / Re: Keg Conversion
« on: September 06, 2011, 02:57:02 PM »
Excellent - that answers my question.  Thanks, Tom!

Of course, one benefit of the keg fermenter is being able to boil to sanitize - not gonna work well with a stick-on thermometer, me thinks  ::)


22
Equipment and Software / Re: Keg Conversion
« on: September 06, 2011, 10:26:02 AM »
I too, would love to hear a report on how this thing works.

Until I can afford the above gadget, anyone know if a stick-on thermometer would give an accurate reading for fermentations?  Concerned the keg walls would be too thick to measure accurately.

Loving the idea of closed C02 transfers, both from process control and back-saving standpoints (i.e. lifting a full fermenter to siphoning-height), but don't use carboys.  However, with these couple sankeys sitting here...


23
Kegging and Bottling / Re: C02 transfer from bucket?
« on: September 03, 2011, 08:36:26 AM »
yeah, thanks Gary. I would definitely keep the pressure low, and think with some keg lube to seal the lid and grommets could hold enough pressure to move the beer.  Seems all I'd need to do is drill another hole in the lid for a stainless barb for the C02 line and use a racking cane in the other hole as on the carboy setups.

Will report back when I have some results (hopefully good)

24
Kegging and Bottling / C02 transfer from bucket?
« on: September 02, 2011, 01:50:12 PM »
I'm interested in doing closed C02 transfers to my kegs, but I ferment in a bucket.  My bucket lids fit TIGHT, so seems like would hold the little pressure needed to push the beer.  Trying to envision what such a setup would look like though - anyone seen a good one?

25
Ingredients / Re: Molasses in a stout
« on: September 01, 2011, 02:43:13 PM »
I used 8 oz of 'full-flavor' Brer Rabbit Molasses at flameout in an Old Ale (1.092 OG) I made early in the year.  Nearly overwhelming Molasses and I love Molasses flavor, even 8 months later.

Next time I won't go over 4oz

26
All Grain Brewing / Re: Refractometer
« on: September 01, 2011, 07:28:47 AM »
A handy spreadsheet that does the corrections for you is here:  http://morebeer.com/learn_vids/vids_refract

After a couple of brews using both Refractometer and Hydrometer side-by-side (and spot checks here and there), I found the Refractometer to be dead-on and now hardly use my Hydrometer anymore.  Love the Refractometer!  (mine was one of the $25 jobs off eBay).

27
All Grain Brewing / Re: The More I Read...Confusion and Vorlauf
« on: August 31, 2011, 04:17:29 PM »
Saw this episode too and while a great, entertaining video (as usual), I too, thought the pandering these 'radical' procedures to be silly, unless it was just meant to get a rise out of people.

You can choose to rehydrate dry yeast or not and will make excellent beer either way (I have), but stating the manufacturer is wrong by suggesting hydrating as preferable seems a bit foolish coming from a (admittedly passionate) hobbyist.

HSA does happen, Charlie Bamforth says so, he also says there are so many other factors (namely packaging conditions and storage temps) that contribute to detectable oxidative effects in finished beer, that HSA should not trouble homebrewers or even probrewers that much.  If someone could show me even a semi-controlled experiment of a vorlaufed vs. non-vorlaufed batch, noting fermentation characteristics and flavor impact of finishes beers, I'd take this assertion more seriously.

28
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cold crashing with dry hops in secondary
« on: August 29, 2011, 11:19:38 AM »
I don't think anything beyond personal experiences\preferences indicate that dry-hopping cold vs. warm tends to more grassiness.  I've done both (though not as controlled experiments), and have never experienced 'grassiness' as I understand the descriptor.  Of course, I've not dry-hopped with 7oz. either!  Awesome.

I have noticed an improved hop aroma by clarifying my beer before adding dry hops to the keg, which is all done cold, btw.  For my current IPA in primary, I'm going to split my dry-hop charge in half, dry hop 1-week with half, then another week with the other half.  Even with the same total amount of hops, is supposed to bump the fresh hop flavors even more than a single, larger charge.  You might give that a try with the amount you're using and dry hop a bit in the keg.

29
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Danstar dry yeast, prices are nuts!
« on: August 25, 2011, 03:17:16 PM »
My two nearest LHBS's have kept Danstar prices pretty competitive (~$2 per 11g sachet), even in the new packaging.  They are still 40% less than the Fermentis Yeasts here.  Prices online are all over the board, so I don't know what to think of what's 'fair'.   There's certainly some latitude for the retailers.

At the end of the day, they're low-hassle, high performance yeasts, that are still well below liquid culture prices, so still represent a good value for many styles of beer

30
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer in Europe...
« on: August 18, 2011, 11:22:01 AM »
I've also been to Klasterni while in Prague a few years ago - they weren't making anything like IPA then, but their unfiltered dark and light lagers were fantastic (with a local meat and cheese plate, mmmmm).  Great vibe in the both the pub and that part of town overlooking the city.  Can't wait to go back!

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