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### Messages - goschman

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1
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: November 09, 2018, 05:28:43 PM »
Hopfenbier

70% pilsner
30% munich
22g Magnum bittering
28g Mandarina Bavaria, Huell Melon, Hallertau Blanc each at 2 mins
28g Mandarina Bavaria, Huell Melon, Hallertau Blanc each at DH

1.050
35 IBUs
MJ M76 - Bavarian Lager

2
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Alternate abv calculators
« on: November 02, 2018, 09:19:41 PM »
Thanks guys

3
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Alternate abv calculators
« on: November 02, 2018, 08:46:54 PM »
Well, that second one obviously accounts for difference in OG, and the first one just assumes a linear relationship.   I'm way too lazy to figure out if the second is just a restatement of the one I know.  But anything accounting for different OG would be more accurate for all beers, so if your calculator gives you a choice, why not always use the alternate?

I don't know hence the post. Beersmith seems to use the standard equation from my experience.

4
« on: November 02, 2018, 08:31:57 PM »
Thanks for all of the help. This mess will get brewed tomorrow morning.

5
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Alternate abv calculators
« on: November 02, 2018, 08:23:14 PM »
According to some sources:

Standard:
ABV = (og – fg) * 131.25

Alternate:
ABV =(76.08 * (og-fg) / (1.775-og)) * (fg / 0.794)

I get 9.3% abv with the standard and 10.1% abv with the alternate

Apparently the alternate may be more accurate for higher abv beers. I'm too dumb to know what is better or more accurate. One of my apps is standard and another appears to use the alternate. I guess I will just send it to the lab.

6
##### General Homebrew Discussion / Alternate abv calculators
« on: November 02, 2018, 07:39:27 PM »
Any reason to use the alternate equation for higher abv beers? I get almost a full percentage point more using the alternate equation for a 1.093 og beer.

7
« on: November 01, 2018, 04:34:03 PM »
I apologize if my comment seemed condescending.   Sometimes what I consider to be humor doesn't come across so well.  Let me explain what I was getting at...hope I don't offend....

You're using GP becasue of it's great malty flavor, I assume.  If so, then the Munich seems extraneous.  So does using both chocolate and carafa.  The DME will leave unfermentabables, so the caramunich wouldn't be needed in that regard. But it will add it's own flavors.

Thanks. I don't use DME so didn't realize it would leave unfermentables like LME did when I used it back in the day. I will take that into account.

8
« on: November 01, 2018, 03:14:36 PM »
Denny's BVIP makes a great base for an Imperial Porter, with or without the bourbon and/or Vanilla. I've also scaled it down to make a regular strength Porter. In fact I have that in the fermenter right now, going to add some frozen blueberries after fermentation finishes.

I was waiting for that reference. I have been looking at it this morning and am considering making some changes based on it.

Would you change the Mona Lisa or Venus de Milo?  ;l

The recipe you have above frankly looks like muddled mess of a crowd recipe.  Maybe it would be great, but tell me what each ingredient would bring to the whole.  Why is each there?  How will they play with each other?

Thanks for the muddled mess comment. You are always very helpful without being condescending at all. I'm sorry that I won't be cloning your masterpiece.

10.5# Golden Promise - need I explain?

3# Weyermann Munich II - develop some malt complexity and and some bready notes

3# Extra Light DME purely to boost OG due to lack of mash tun space

1.5# Brown Malt 65L - sort of standard for a lot of porters?

10 oz Chocolate Malt 450L - need I explain?

10 oz Carafa III Special - smooth roast

8 oz Caramunich III - add a bit of body without too much unfermentables. I assume it will be sweet enough as I expect it to finish in the 1.020s

As I mentioned previously, I'm not necessarily trying to nail an imperial porter since that really isn't a style. I want something similar to what I would consider one but not overly roasty.

9
« on: November 01, 2018, 02:38:05 PM »
Water question: How much sodium from baking soda can I get away with in a beer like this in order to raise the mash pH? Any concern with over 40 ppm? I wouldn't think so but I rarely need to add baking soda.

Here is another idea.  If you are worried about the mash pH being too low, don't mash the dark grains with the rest of the grain bill.  Gordon Strong mentioned this in a seminar at Homebrew Con a few years back and it may be in his book "Brewing Better Beer" although I can't remember for sure if it is.
I use this method when I am brewing my stouts and baltic porters because Bru'n Water predicts the pH will be too low from the acidity of the dark grains and the water profile gets all messed up if I try to adjust for it.  Taking out the dark grains solved this problem.  I then add and stir them in after conversion is complete and vorlauf/recirculate until the color looks right and the wort runs clear before drawing it off into the kettle.  Since you will not have any fermentables to speak of in the dark grains, you can do this without affecting the kettle gravity.  Alternatively, you can "mash" the dark grains in a small pot and add them to the mash tun after conversion is complete.  That seems to be a lot more work for me and the method I am using works great.

Well I am trying to get my mash pH to 5.5-5.6 which works better for me and my dark beers. I have no problem getting it that high but it pushes my Na up to around 40 ppm. I assume that's not an issue as some Na can add roundness to the flavor but was just looking for some feedback regarding that in particular. Would it be beneficial to up the Na even more? I don't think I've ever gone above 25 ppm.

I would rather have the roasted grains in there for the full mash to get the full character out of them. From what I hear, a late mash addition is more for beer that you want less or smoother roast character.

If mashing in the dark grains works for you, that is fine.  Although, I have never noticed any flavor difference from adding t he roasted grains late (I add them at mashout).

Others can chime in on this if they feel I am off base here.  Bru'n Water says that "sodium levels should be below 100 ppm and never more than 150 ppm and that low sodium is preferable in beer."  If you sodium levels get close to 100 ppm, it could impart a metallic flavor to the beer in addition to exacerbating sodium related health issues.  That said, I don't think you are going to have any problems if your sodium level gets to or slightly above 40 ppm.  For one thing it will enhance the sweetness of the beer a bit more and round it out as you have mentioned.  Just my \$0.02.

Thanks Goose! I'm kind of lazy and all about simplicity hence mashing all together. I have added roasted grains late in the mash before with good success however I believe that was before I was worried about water treatment.

I think my water looks good enough? Build off my tap water so I couldn't match 'black malty' but I did hit the SO4/Cl ratio if that matters...

Ca - 42
Mg - 6
Na - 39
SO4 - 43
Cl - 59

mash pH ~5.50

Getting ingredients today. Still a bit caught up in amount of brown malt, chocolate, and carafa. Never brewing a beer like this makes me kind of worried. I've had some higher OG beers that didn't fair to well.

10
##### Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast substitute for Wyeast Irish Ale
« on: October 31, 2018, 04:45:34 PM »
Nottingham
US-05 (1056 is listed as sub for the style on their site) - I know, it's not the same...
maybe S-04 fermented cool

11
« on: October 31, 2018, 02:12:11 PM »
Water question: How much sodium from baking soda can I get away with in a beer like this in order to raise the mash pH? Any concern with over 40 ppm? I wouldn't think so but I rarely need to add baking soda.

Here is another idea.  If you are worried about the mash pH being too low, don't mash the dark grains with the rest of the grain bill.  Gordon Strong mentioned this in a seminar at Homebrew Con a few years back and it may be in his book "Brewing Better Beer" although I can't remember for sure if it is.
I use this method when I am brewing my stouts and baltic porters because Bru'n Water predicts the pH will be too low from the acidity of the dark grains and the water profile gets all messed up if I try to adjust for it.  Taking out the dark grains solved this problem.  I then add and stir them in after conversion is complete and vorlauf/recirculate until the color looks right and the wort runs clear before drawing it off into the kettle.  Since you will not have any fermentables to speak of in the dark grains, you can do this without affecting the kettle gravity.  Alternatively, you can "mash" the dark grains in a small pot and add them to the mash tun after conversion is complete.  That seems to be a lot more work for me and the method I am using works great.

Well I am trying to get my mash pH to 5.5-5.6 which works better for me and my dark beers. I have no problem getting it that high but it pushes my Na up to around 40 ppm. I assume that's not an issue as some Na can add roundness to the flavor but was just looking for some feedback regarding that in particular. Would it be beneficial to up the Na even more? I don't think I've ever gone above 25 ppm.

I would rather have the roasted grains in there for the full mash to get the full character out of them. From what I hear, a late mash addition is more for beer that you want less or smoother roast character.

12
« on: October 30, 2018, 03:26:57 PM »
Maybe sub the Munich in for the DME.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think my mash tun is big enough to get my gravity as high as I would like hence the need for DME. I suppose I could sparge more than once.
Maybe consider doing a Double Mash? There's a thread on it. Or listen to the Experimental Brewing podcast. Or look over my Full Monty recipe (pretty much explains Double Mash) and adjust your recipe to be the beer you want. https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/617251/-full-monty-

Thank you. I will look into it. I actually thought of that but remember being confused by the process for some reason. I'm not very bright...

13
« on: October 30, 2018, 02:00:56 PM »
Getting closer to the final recipe

10.5# Golden Promise
3# Weyermann Munich II
3# Extra Light DME (purely to boost OG due to lack of mash tun space)
1.5# Brown Malt 65L
10 oz Chocolate Malt 450L
10 oz Carafa III Special
8 oz Caramunich III

Bitter to 50 IBUs with something high alpha on hand (Magnum, Bravo, Nugget)

2 packets of Nottingham

OG ~1.093
FG ?

14
« on: October 29, 2018, 08:32:09 PM »
Maybe sub the Munich in for the DME.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think my mash tun is big enough to get my gravity as high as I would like hence the need for DME. I suppose I could sparge more than once.

15