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Messages - goschman

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526
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: March 10, 2017, 03:25:51 PM »
This is a 50/50 blend of my latest Helles and Irish Red. I like it better than the 2 beers by themselves. I especially like this lower level of roasted barley. It adds a nice character malt taste without overpowering.



Cool! Did you go with a lager or ale yeast?

My buddy and I brewed a similar beer where we made a hybrid of each of our best beers; a kolsch and a brown ale. It was easily as good or better than the parent beers.

EDIT- oops I misunderstood. you actually blended the two finished beers...

527
In my honest opinion, just ignore the "recommended temp ranges" on the yeast packages.
If you are unsure of a good fermentation temp you want for your beer, just look around the forums and see what folks have been recommending for the yeast/style you are brewing.

Good point!

In my opinion US05 has an optimum range of about 58F-75F. People report "peach" and other flavor differences depending on temp but I have never detected that...

I find the peach so objectionable that I've dumped batches of beer made with 05 and will not use it any longer.

That's cool. Glad that hasn't happened to me. Maybe I don't know what peach tastes like...

528
All Grain Brewing / Re: Hoppy Pils Water
« on: March 09, 2017, 04:30:20 PM »
My current hoppy lager used the same water profile as my APA which contains over 200 ppm SO4. In this beer, I feel it has increased the perception of crispness and makes it more identifiable as a lager.

529
In my honest opinion, just ignore the "recommended temp ranges" on the yeast packages.
If you are unsure of a good fermentation temp you want for your beer, just look around the forums and see what folks have been recommending for the yeast/style you are brewing.

Good point!

In my opinion US05 has an optimum range of about 58F-75F. People report "peach" and other flavor differences depending on temp but I have never detected that...

530
Ingredients / Re: Water Profile for Golden, CO (Ca/Mg/HCO3 estimated)
« on: March 08, 2017, 06:49:49 PM »
“With modern technology, water is water. Anything in the water you don’t want, it is easy to get that out and put in what you do want,” Coors said.

Pretty sure there is no untreated Rocky Mountain Spring Water involved in Coors as I look out my window at the brewery. I suppose it starts in the mountains though....

531
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dry Hop in Keg
« on: March 07, 2017, 07:23:02 PM »
My pale ale gets 3 oz of hops in the keg. I normally get a pungent hop character with hop debris for the first week or so. At two weeks the aroma and overall hop character is right where I like it.

I am not sure why you would not get any results from 2.5 oz...

532
Ingredients / Re: How many ounces of hops in your American IPA?
« on: March 06, 2017, 05:35:09 PM »
Enough bittering hops to get to 60-70 IBUs
4 oz @ flameout
4 oz DH

533
I am on my second cider as well; both have included fruit. I simply added the pureed fruit with the juice at the beginning then let them ferment together. I backsweeten with one can of concentrated juice.

534
Beer Recipes / Re: CAP recipe
« on: March 02, 2017, 04:25:13 PM »
Any thoughts? Really having a hard time deciding on what to brew next and have been throwing around the idea of a CAP for some time...

41% schill pilsner
36% american two row
23% flaked corn

21g Sterling 60 min
14g Sterling 15 min
14g Sterling 2 min
14g Crystal 2 min

Yeast?
Probably go with something I have on had which would be 34/70 or S-189. I assume neither of those would be preferred?

1.055
~33 IBU

Did you brew this? What was the yeast? I've been considering the S-189 in a Bock.

I am brewing tomorrow and have gone back and forth between this and a malty brown lager. I think the brown is going to win out before the weather warms up. I will be using S-189 in that.

535
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash efficiency- equipment
« on: February 28, 2017, 09:10:41 PM »
I always batch-sparge and consistently get 75-77% extract efficiency.  My method is to simply drain the sweet wort from the grains as completely as possible, and set the wort aside in the boil kettle for safe-keeping.  I leave all the spent grains in the mash tun and simply pour all of my sparge water (heated to 170) into the mash tun, and let the grains steep in the sparge water for 10 minutes (if you've calculated your mash:sparge water right, you should have enough sparge water to just barely cover your grains during the steep).  Then I drain all the water off the grains, add those runnings to the wort already in the boil kettle, and get to boilin'...

This is pretty much my process exactly other than I use warmer sparge water. Efficiency has always been an issue for me and I average about 70% brewhouse efficiency although I tend to swing between 66-74. I have recently started remilling my grains at home to the point of stuck sparge and have not noticed any difference. I have a 10 gallon round cooler with false bottom. I will be using a brew bag with false bottom removed for my next batch.

My efficiency improved quite a bit when I moved from single infusions to a three-step mash schedule (I have yet to play around with decoctions).  Have you tried playing around with your mash schedule to see how it affects your efficiency?

Don't really want to mess with multistep mashes in a plastic cooler. I think a lot of single infusion batch spargers get really high efficiency.

536
Beer Travel / Re: Fort Collins New Belgium Tour
« on: February 28, 2017, 04:51:37 PM »
Did you visit Odell when you were in FTC? I don't know about the tours but the beer is definitely better. I still haven't made it up the road to either but will make it at some point.

Hogshead is solid for sure.

537
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: W34/70 vs S-189
« on: February 28, 2017, 04:27:56 PM »
My apologies for bringing this ancient thread back to the top, but I said I'd report when my try with S-189 was ready to drink.

A Maibock:  SG = 1.067,  FG = 1.014

42%  Weyermann Pils
31%  GW 2 row
19%  Vienna
 6%  Cara Munich
 1.5% Special Roast
30  IBUs

Wonderful malt aroma and flavor.  Initial malty sweetness is nicely balanced by the smooth hop bitterness and leads to a somewhat dry finish.  The Sterling hop flavor and aroma is there but you really have to look for it.  lovely orange/amber clarity and persistent white head.  Nice mouthfeel.  Seems to check all the boxes for a Maibock except maybe a little more caramel than ideal.

I will brew malt forward lagers again with S-189.  Maybe the next Maibock will swap out the Cara Munich for 10% Munich 20L.

Thanks for the update. I am brewing a malty brown lager on Friday and will be using S-189 for the first time. 34/70 has been my go to but reports that 189 is good for malty styles seemed like a good reason to try it.

538
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash efficiency- equipment
« on: February 28, 2017, 03:56:48 PM »
A false bottom may affect your efficiency due to the dead space underneat it unless you account for it.  That's one reason I prefer a braid.  Another is that a braid seems to be less likely to have a stuck runoff.  In fact, in 511 batches, I've never had a stuck runoff using a braid.  Efficiency wise, assumkng I hit mid-high 90s on mash efficiency, my brewhouse efficiency will be anywhere from 82-85%.

BTW, the episode of the Brew Files that comes put a week from tomorrow is all about batch sparging.

Good to know. I will stayed tuned.

I am hoping part or a lot of my issues are related to the false bottom since I have literally chased every other possibility (I think). I had considered going to a braid but the bag sounds like it should take care of it. Should know after Friday's brew session if the false bottom is the culprit...

539
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash efficiency- equipment
« on: February 28, 2017, 03:29:22 PM »
I always batch-sparge and consistently get 75-77% extract efficiency.  My method is to simply drain the sweet wort from the grains as completely as possible, and set the wort aside in the boil kettle for safe-keeping.  I leave all the spent grains in the mash tun and simply pour all of my sparge water (heated to 170) into the mash tun, and let the grains steep in the sparge water for 10 minutes (if you've calculated your mash:sparge water right, you should have enough sparge water to just barely cover your grains during the steep).  Then I drain all the water off the grains, add those runnings to the wort already in the boil kettle, and get to boilin'...

This is pretty much my process exactly other than I use warmer sparge water. Efficiency has always been an issue for me and I average about 70% brewhouse efficiency although I tend to swing between 66-74. I have recently started remilling my grains at home to the point of stuck sparge and have not noticed any difference. I have a 10 gallon round cooler with false bottom. I will be using a brew bag with false bottom removed for my next batch.

540
All Grain Brewing / Re: racking to secondary
« on: February 27, 2017, 07:01:05 PM »
That's what I do. Once FG has been reached I cold crash for a couple of days, add gelatin, and let sit until I am ready to package. I only transfer off the yeast if it needs significant time to age.

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