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Messages - garc_mall

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466
The Pub / Re: Hurricane broke the house I"m buying D:
« on: November 03, 2012, 10:00:16 AM »
Best BFI thread since he asked for advice on how to style his hair!

Why, by sticking your finger in a socket an outlet, of course!   8)

Thank you Carl, I needed that.

Also, Turtles. :o

467
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Cleaning kegerator
« on: October 30, 2012, 08:24:43 AM »
It's the same wrench used to remove the buttstock sleeve from an AR-15. So you don't have to get a uni-tasker. ;)

And who doesn't have AR-15s and kegerators?   8)

Refer to Zombie apocalypse thread.  :o

468
The Pub / Re: Painkillers
« on: October 29, 2012, 03:24:42 PM »
caffeine is known to reduce headaches in people who don't regularly ingest it as well. One of the effects of caffeine is a slight dilation of blood vessels. That is why it is used in some "extra-strength" headache medicine such as Excedrin.

469
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: krausen question
« on: October 29, 2012, 08:44:28 AM »
I think what he was looking for was how long does beer need to sit on the yeast cake to clean itself up (diacetyl, acetaldehyde). Thats why he was referring to it in weeks, rather than months.

However, I agree, when you are talking about off-flavors from leaving the beer on the yeast cake too long, you are talking months, not weeks.

470
The Pub / Re: http://tinychat.com/roffenburger
« on: October 28, 2012, 07:40:05 PM »
Im in for an hour or two. Catching up on the forums and drinking a Fremont fresh hop ale while I am at it.

471
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Issues with first all grain batch
« on: October 28, 2012, 07:29:37 PM »
definitely preheat your mash tun. I usually heat up the strike water to 2-3 degrees above the strike temperature, and when it stabilizes, its right about at my proper strike temp.

Regarding your manifold, do you have the holes up or down?

472
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Issues with first all grain batch
« on: October 28, 2012, 05:27:04 PM »
I will start by asking for more information. What are you using as a Mash/Lauter tun? How is it insulated? How was the grain ground?

I have a 54qt Cooler with a bazooka screen for my mash tun. My first AG batch had issues with mash temp, because I forgot to heat up the cooler. I have never had problems with a stuck sparge with my system.

473
Events / Re: NHC 2013 Hotel?
« on: October 23, 2012, 06:23:43 PM »
it is most likely going to be at the Pennsylvania Convention Center

The Convention Center, yeah.  But does that have hotel rooms?

Nope....it's not the CC.  The AHA will announce the hotel by February.

You are mean Ron.

474
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Dry-Hopping Citra DIPA
« on: October 15, 2012, 09:49:06 PM »
I throw dry hops in the primary as well. I use a carboy, toss the pellets or whole hops in the primary, and after a week, they are usually sitting on the bottom. I have ended up with a touch of hop detritus in a couple of bottles, but its not really a problem.

475
Beer Recipes / Re: Roast porter
« on: October 10, 2012, 07:28:52 PM »
I also don't think that 4oz of each (RB and BP) will really put the roast high enough to be out of style. In 5 gallons, I am usually between 8-12oz of roast malt in my robust porters.

476
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: simcoe bittering
« on: October 07, 2012, 08:06:31 PM »
I have not used simcoe for bittering at all, I only use it as a flavor/aroma hop.

However, I really like magnum for my "single hop charge" beers. I find it has a more rounded bitterness that isn't quite so in your face. If I remember right, simcoe has a bit harsher bitterness.

477
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Beer tasting books?
« on: October 07, 2012, 07:27:18 PM »
Any recommendations for books that would help me learn how to identify what I'm tasting?

Have you read Tasting Beer by Randy Mosher?

Much agreement. However, I think the best way to learn how to identify what you are tasting is to work with others in a pseudo-tasting panel. If you can compare notes, its easier to identify flavors.

478
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Tips for the beginner
« on: October 06, 2012, 03:53:38 PM »
I agree with everything said here. Make more beer. Drink more beer. The nice thing is, as long as you maintain sanitation, and are close on fermentation temps, you will have beer that tastes pretty good. As you become more familiar with your personal tastes, you can start honing your beer in on what you like. Until then, Relax, Don't worry, and have a homebrew. RDWHAHB.

479
Beer Recipes / Re: First Barleywine
« on: October 02, 2012, 10:12:09 AM »
Also, I'd personally keep it in secondary for longer...but that's just me (some of my barleywines/Burton ales have stayed in secondary for a year).   I just find that it results in (to me) a better brew and lessens the likelihood of  foamouts or bottle bombs for those bottles that make it to the two year mark (or longer)...and it's those bottles that will be the best tasting, hands down.  You will wish you had made more or, at the very least, you'll wish that you had saved more.  Trust me on this. 8)

So there's a difference between bulk ageing and bottle ageing? Say you made two batches of barleywine and bottled one after one month and bottled the other after 10 months, then tasted both after one year total conditioning time (carboy+bottle), do you think there would be a big difference?

My understanding is that it is more about consistency (and in this case left over sugars). If you bottle a barleywine after 1 month, and then age for a year, the yeast all change the beer in slightly different ways. If you bulk age, all of the beer ages the same way.

I'm happy to be corrected, but I'm not sure I buy that theory.  A properly mixed beer with priming solution should be homogenous from racking into the bottling bucket, so there should not be inconsistencies like that. Yes I can understand bulk aging to be sure you don't bottle too early and avoid bottle bombs from tired yeast, but I don't buy the argument that they'll all have different sugar amounts in there if you don't.  To me that just suggests poor bottling practice.

I wasn't talking about different sugar amounts in the changes. As Joe Sr. said, two bottles can have pretty vast differences between them after a year or two. If you leave the whole beer in the carboy for that year, you are minimizing differences between the bottles. This is why I have heard that some people like to bulk age for 6mos to a year for the big beers, before bottling. The fact that it helps make sure you don't bottle to early and have bottle bombs is a bonus. I know nothing about commercial aging processes, but I agree that they probably don't age beer unless its in a barrel of some sort. I know black raven has a conditioning tank in their cold room that they condition some beers in before they keg, but I don't think it is used for more than a couple weeks, and that is to smooth out some of the barrel aged beers.

480
Beer Recipes / Re: Drying out an APA
« on: October 02, 2012, 10:04:16 AM »
I did a "APA" with 35% munich and no crystal. It turned out pretty amber, and I started referring to it as an american amber. I loved the beer, so did a lot of people that tried it, but it didn't do so well at competitions, coming across as too dry. I don't think it helped that American ambers are supposed to be sweet, but I think it ended up on the dry side for an APA as well. However, if you don't plan on entering it in a competition, I love that blend, and I think the maltiness of munich can really support the hops and make for a more interesting beer.

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