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Messages - garc_mall

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Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Oskar Blues expanding?
« on: May 02, 2012, 09:39:06 PM »
now when are they going to get those aluminum pint bottles for homebrewers? That sounds awesome...

All Grain Brewing / Re: Ok, so I gotta situation here...
« on: May 02, 2012, 09:36:06 PM »
I would throw another 3lb each of pils and wheat malt in, and call it a dunkelweizenbock. Might need a touch more hops to maintain the GU/BU ratio.


I always thought it came from homebrewers wanting to do what commercial brewers do.  In a commercial fermenter, you have maybe thousands of gal. of beer sitting on the yeast causing a lot of pressure. 

This was my understanding as well.

The only issue I see is that WY1272 is not WY1056, so not the same strain as US-05, I think it might work out, but I don't know enough about yeast to be sure.

I don't have the means to make a starter at this point.  I do have an extra Safale US-05 that I could use along with the Wyeast or should I just use the Wyeast? 

There really is not a lot of equipment required to make a starter. I use a half gallon growler and a bit of DME. I use about 5oz of dme in 3.5 cups of water. bring it to a boil for 5-10 minutes, cool, add to growler, pitch yeast and cover with foil. Shake it whenever I remember.

Whats the OG for the kit?

One Wyeast pack definitely won't be enough

If the gravity is steady, the yeast is done.  1.019 seems a bit high for a final gravity, though if it's all extract maybe that's were it should be.  Were you expecting it to attenuate further?

The bubbling is most likely just CO2 coming out of solution.  Is the temp rising in you storage area?  The beer will hold more CO2 in suspension at colder temps.

There's no harm being patient and waiting to make sure it finishes.  Unless you're eager to bottle.

I'd say give it a week or so and check again.  If the gravity continues to creep downward, give it a little more time.

If it's steady, go ahead and bottle.

+1 to all of this.

I think you may have moved it to secondary a bit quickly. I am guessing you were just following directions, but usually I go 10-14 days in primary, then I start taking gravity readings, and once they are stable, I go straight to bottling. Secondary really isn't necessary unless you are planning on adding fruit or such, or lagering it for an extended period. I would start checking the gravity on your summer ale as well, because it might be ready for bottling.

Did you taste the gravity samples? Do they taste clean? Another possibility is that you have a Brettanomyces infection which will cause a slow drop in gravity as the wild yeast eat sugars that are traditionally unfermentable. If your gravity sample tastes clean, and you don't see anything growing on top of the beer in the carboy, you should be fine.
Welcome to the hobby, once you get your first 3-4 batches under your belt, everything will make a lot more sense. And don't be afraid to ask questions, we are happy to answer them.

And why spme people recomend secondary? When is this used?

I use a secondary for 3 reasons.

1. I am adding additional fermentables, such as fruit.
2. I want to use the yeast cake for a different beer, but don't have time to bottle.
3. I ran out of 6 gallon carboys, and I don't have time to bottle.

Really, reason 1 is the only beer-related reason to rack to secondary. The other ones have to do with time management.

Ingredients / Re: a question about pickling lime v. chalk
« on: May 01, 2012, 05:26:48 PM »
These conversations are where I learn the most. I still don't understand water chemistry as much as I would like, but every time one of these threads come up, I learn a bit more, or a different way of understanding my water chemistry. Thanks you guys.

All Grain Brewing / Re: How does my grist look?
« on: May 01, 2012, 12:21:27 PM »
Looks better than mine, and I am getting 95-100% conversion efficiency according to Kai's chart.

Homebrew Clubs / Re: Our club is starting to mature
« on: April 30, 2012, 09:31:33 AM »
This is completely based off of what I have seen in my homebrew club, so it may or may not apply to you.

Our club has dues, but they are small, just 20$ per year. This is what our dues go to.

Food/Cups for the meeting
Food and Materials for club brews
Name tags for members (You would be surprised how important this is)
6 tap Jockey Box

This year, some of our dues went to renting a 4 tap jockey box for NHC, so we can have 10 taps.

I also think that the dues are a small way to filter out people who are just coming for beer.

That is my 2cents.

Pimp My System / Re: Cheap, functional HERMS
« on: April 29, 2012, 09:02:22 PM »
What a tease. ;)

I need some pics with the lids off, or at least a description of what's going on.


All Grain Brewing / Re: FauxPils Faceoff
« on: April 29, 2012, 09:01:03 PM »
I would like to be considered for this.

Not a judge yet, but I am working through the material so I can judge, and I use decoction on occasion.

Beer Recipes / Re: Low Alcohol Beer Ideas?
« on: April 27, 2012, 01:30:37 PM »
Come find my beer at NHC! It should be about 4%, and I am working on packing in a ton of flavor. I am really hoping to get good feedback on it. I did the base recipe, and it tasted good, going to throw a couple of small changes into it for my next batch in a couple weeks.

Beer Recipes / Re: Low Alcohol Beer Ideas?
« on: April 27, 2012, 09:24:47 AM »
I am going to start off with the disclaimer that I am not an expert, but I have made 2 session beers of between 3-4 percent, and basing my advice on that. I love my session beers, and try to keep at least one available at all times. If you come to NHC, I will have a Mocha Mild that will be on for either club night or the hospitality suite.

Ok, now that's out of the way, here is what I have learned about making tasty low-alcohol beer.

1. American 2-row sucks. It doesn't provide anything to a beer other than fermentable sugars. maybe a couple pounds if you need the enzymes, but really, get rid of regular American 2-row. Use Marris Otter, Golden Promise, or even Belgian Pale malt. Eek out every ounce of flavor you can get in these beers.

2. Character malts are awesome. Munich, Vienna, Biscuit, Aromatic. All of those are really nice to add to a beer. If you are doing a darker beer, look at pale chocolate, dark Munich, special B and the like. Crystal is nice, but I have noticed that the sweetness stands out a lot more in these small beers, I would recommend keeping it under a pound.

3. Mash Higher. I mash my session beers between 154-156, but I have heard of people doing mashes as high as 160-162. You want some unfermentables in there. You could also try no-sparge, I have tasted some really nice beers that no-sparge, and I find the malt flavor is appreciably better. I intend on trying this with my next session beer.

As you may have noticed, the biggest problem I have personally run into, and seen others run into is lack of complexity. The lower alcohol and generally less malt can make for a boring beer if you don't work at it. I make up for this with the above, character yeasts (I like 1968) and interesting hopping. I threw up a recipe in this folder for a Munich mild. That is the beer I have been drinking lately, and it will be the base recipe for the Mocha Mild I am bringing to NHC.

Congrats Alabama, one step closer! And in an election year to boot!

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