Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - tom

Pages: 1 ... 67 68 [69] 70 71 ... 74
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What kind of yeast do you use for a Wee Heavy
« on: December 21, 2009, 03:20:49 PM »
Yeah, a little "smoky" phenolics.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Going from 10 gallons to 220 gallons
« on: December 21, 2009, 10:05:48 AM »
The hop utilization increases when you get to pro sizes. The brewer should be able to give you their utilization %.

Equipment and Software / Re: Regulator Gasket
« on: December 19, 2009, 09:56:25 AM »
Where is that O-ring used? Between the regulator and tank?

The Pub / Re: All eyes on europe
« on: December 18, 2009, 09:03:21 AM »
And, more importantly, Germany can't restrict beer that doesn't follow the Reinheitsgebot!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Microscope and yeast counting
« on: December 15, 2009, 12:45:18 PM »
Their whole website is a great source. Too bad they don't sell yeast to homebrewers.

Remember that if you want to brew 10 (or 12) gallons, your boil-off percentage will drop by 50% so you won't get as much increase in gravity through the boil.
Brew on

It looks about right to me: post-boil 5 gallons * 104 pts/gal = 520 pts
pre-boil 520 pts = X gallons * 80 pts/gal, 520 pts/80 pts/gal = 6.5 gallons pre-boil
Sound about right?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast pitching for a high OG noob
« on: December 12, 2009, 10:31:52 PM »
Making a starter for a big beer (or any beer) is a great idea. How did you decide on a 3L starter? Depending on how you do your starters, check out the yeast pitching calculator at by Jamil Z.

If you pitch adequate, viable yeast, oxygenate well at pitching, and watch your fermentation temperature you should get great beer without needing to add any more yeast.

Second, I've now convinced myself that placing a thermowell w/ controller probe in the fermenting beer is not such a good idea. Most controllers run with a 3 or 4 degree temperature offset, so the beer temp would be swinging up up and down. Plus, the lag time for the temp to reach the probe may cause the outer areas of the fermenter to be too cold before the controller shuts off. And trying to tighten the temp offset just makes the compressor work harder. I guess I'll just have to manually monitor the internal carboy temp and adjust the ferment chamber temp accordingly.

I'm glad we had this discussion!   :D
The stick on Fermometers are very accurate. Then you can be the controller. Which will work just fine with frequent checks. The first few days of fermentation are the more important time period. At first you'll need to adjust the temperature down to control the rising fermentation temeperature. As it settles down you'll need to increase the fridge temperature to prevent it from chilling too low. After that it is pretty stable. Unfortunately every beer will be different. Lagers change slowly, ales more quickly, and keep a very close eye on big beers.

As for a thermowell, it will have the least lag time of any type of measurement. I am not aware that the fermenting wort has different temperatures in different areas. I think the fact that fermentation is happening everywhere and the circulation of the wort will keep it pretty uniform. I will compare my thermowell and Fermometer next time.

Yes, some controllers have a 3-4 deg differential and they are best for just hanging in the air and controlling the fridge temperature. You don't want the beer to be changing 3-4 degrees.

Some digital controllers do have adjustable differentials. I set mine to 1degF and set the probe into a thermowell. Works well. I don't have to check it every few hours.


And big beers with more sugar, more yeast, and more oxygen can easily go over 10degF more than ambient.

Thanks Kai. I couldn't find the info on your site. Do you have a link?

6 oz of whole hops and 13.5 oz of pellets in 10 gallons.

I think that having the Bazooka a little bit above the bottom, using some whole hops, whirlpooling and letting the hops settle for 90 minutes helped.

thanks for the advice tom - this will be my first gyle - I have done an all first runnings BW before and the richness of the malt is jawdropping.

I plan on doing exactly as you suggest and see where the gravity for the first runnings is and then make a judgement call.  Reason being, I don't necessarily want my BW to be over 1.100 - so if its coming out 1.090 preboil, I might do a little mixing to get it down to mid 70s and shoot to end up there.

I borrowed a second BK from a friend so I'm all set.

And right after I get these two in the fermentor, I'll be making my Old Ale.  Don't know if I'll p-g that one too though, that might break my back for the day, but I think I can handle the three.
If you want a lower pre-boil gravity you can mash a little thinner. Here are some numbers from Steve Holle's article in the August Zymurgy.
Mash at 1.14 qt/lb, 1st runnings are 24degPlato and efficiency is 45%. Mash at 1.28 qt/lb and 1st runnings are 22 degP and efficiency is 48%. Mash at 1.54 qt/lb, 1st runnings are 19degP and efficiency is 53%.  For my Wee Heavies I mash at 1.7 qt/lb because I boil off more.

I have my Bazooka along the side. My last brew was a 10 gallon double IPA. I whirlpooled it and let it sit for 90 minutes to try to increase hop flavor. (I always whirlpool and let it settle for 15 minutes anyway.) I pumped the wort out and through my chiller without a problem.

Pages: 1 ... 67 68 [69] 70 71 ... 74