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Messages - roguejim

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421
All Grain Brewing / Re: Extra Vienna...Uses? AIPA?
« on: September 08, 2010, 12:01:30 PM »
If I was to is no more than 50% vienna along with Marris Otter, would you still recommend a step mash?

Thanks.

422
Beer Recipes / Re: Fred's Late Hopped Amarillo Pale...What Have I Done?
« on: September 07, 2010, 02:40:41 PM »
Modify away,
The malt bill is based on a 1st place Amber (Michigan State Fair, may it rest in peace),
The concept is to push the flavor and aroma envelope while maintaining the same bitterness. 

Fred

I've brewed the actual recipe before (it has become a house favorite), so I thought I would honor it with homegrown Cascades.

423
All Grain Brewing / Re: Extra Vienna...Uses? AIPA?
« on: September 07, 2010, 11:07:52 AM »
I've used anywhere from 10% to 100% Vienna in an IPA.  If you go with all of it, step it and convert low.  It will seem like it has a higher FG than it does because it will be super malty.

Especially if you're making SSOS; then you need all the malt you can get.  I think you should go all in.  That beer can take it.

I also like a 50/50 mix of Vienna and Maris Otter as a base malt in a lot of styles.  It's one of my signature combos.

What would you suggest for a step mash?  I never do them.
What temp would you convert at, ~148F?

424
Beer Recipes / Re: Fred's Late Hopped Amarillo Pale...What Have I Done?
« on: September 07, 2010, 12:41:58 AM »
I should make it clear that this is Fred Bonjour's recipe, modified, in case anyone should think I'm Fred. :D
http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/AmarilloPaleAleBeerDuJour

Anyway, the hops were dried.  I took a wild assed guess for 5% AAUs.

425
Beer Recipes / Fred's Late Hopped Amarillo Pale...What Have I Done?
« on: September 06, 2010, 10:39:56 PM »
I went and brewed Fred's LHAP, but subbed homegrown Cascades for the Amarillo.  (Actually, I also subbed domestic 2-row for the Marris Otter.  Didn't want to waste good English malt in case the batch sucked.)  Could be a grassy monster.  What do you think?

Cascade Pale (Homegrown)

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal):         7.00    Wort Size (Gal):    7.00
Total Grain (Lbs):       11.31
Anticipated OG:          1.046    Plato:             11.49
Anticipated SRM:           8.2
Anticipated IBU:          48.9
Brewhouse Efficiency:       80 %
Wort Boil Time:             60    Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate:       2.00    Gallons Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size:    9.00    Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity:      1.036    SG          9.01  Plato


Grain/Extract/Sugar

   %     Amount     Name                          Origin        Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 70.7     8.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row)              America        1.036      2
  9.4     1.06 lbs. Munich Malt                   Germany        1.037      8
  5.0     0.56 lbs. Aromatic Malt                 Belgium        1.036     25
  5.0     0.56 lbs. Flaked Barley                 America        1.032      2
  5.0     0.56 lbs. Crystal 20L                   America        1.035     20
  5.0     0.56 lbs. Crystal 60L                   America        1.034     60

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

   Amount     Name                              Form    Alpha  IBU  Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  4.20 oz.    Cascade                           Whole    5.00  29.3  15 min.
  6.40 oz.    Cascade                           Whole    5.00  17.9  5 min.
  2.80 oz.    Cascade                           Whole    5.00   1.7  1 min.

 

426
All Grain Brewing / Re: Extra Vienna...Uses? AIPA?
« on: September 06, 2010, 10:33:59 PM »
Great ideas all around.  Glad to know the sky's the limit with vienna in an AIPA, SSOS-style.  Thanks.  I'll be combining Chinook with Columbus and others in this one...

427
All Grain Brewing / Extra Vienna...Uses? AIPA?
« on: September 06, 2010, 04:12:44 PM »
I'm trying to get rid of some extra vienna I've had sitting around.  I'm not interested in brewing a vienna lager.

Would vienna in an AIPA be totally out of character?  If not, what percentage range would you consider to be acceptable for a vienna addition?

When I speak of an AIPA, I'm referring to one in the SSOS vein, where BU:GU ratio is out the window.

428
General Homebrew Discussion / English malt extracts versus domestic extracts
« on: September 02, 2010, 12:06:31 PM »
For the guys who want to brew English ales from extract(not me), would it be advisable for them to use the canned extracts from England versus the domestic bulk extract at the LHBS?  I mean, brewers tout marris otter/English pale malt for English ales.  So wouldn't it follow that English extracts would be required for a more authentic English ale? 

429
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How fast is too fast to move to all grain?
« on: September 02, 2010, 11:59:36 AM »
Go see someone do it end-to-end before doing it yourself, though.  A lot of what you do is visual, so you need to know what "looks right."

While that's undoubtedly the best way to do it, that's not the way I did it.  I'd never seen anyone do AG before I started.  I just read a lot of books and the usenet group rec.crafts.brewing and jumped in.  Once I was done, it was kind if like "wow, is that all?".  The point being that if you can't brew with someone else to learn, don't let it stop you.

I had no one to watch either, but I did read, and ask Denny and others at the HBD lots of annoying questions.  For me, I wish I had never bothered with extract brewing.

Don't let the math scare you.  Most of the brewing software programs do it all for you, and there really isn't all that much to do anyway.

One other thing.  Be careful with what, and how much equipment you buy.  A lot of newbies think they need everything.  Don't go buying 150 bottles thinking you're going to really dig bottling your own beer.  Try not to fall for gimmicky brewing crap.  Don't buy the smallest boil kettle you can get away with.  You will likely want to do some double-batches, especially if you have friends who are sucking your kegs dry, or if you have a brewing partner.  Take a look at Mike Dixon's homebrew site and see how little you can easily get by with.
 

http://www.ipass.net/mpdixon/

430
General Homebrew Discussion / Pouring a Pint, Brit-style
« on: August 31, 2010, 02:50:21 AM »
A friend of mine just returned to the U.S. from England.  He remarked that when he ordered pints at several pubs, they always seemed to purposely overfill the pint glass to the point of overflowing.  The bartender would then wait for the beer to settle, and then top it off.  A real mess apparently.  Why this filling technique?

431
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation Room Temp
« on: August 31, 2010, 02:42:37 AM »
I use a Johnson Temp Controller with a single dial.  Should I disconnect it during the winter months, and just run the refrigerator/freezer in normal mode, i.e., use the refrigerator's own internal thermostat?  Just wondering which would be easier on the fridge.  It seems that using the Johnson might still be the way to go as I could more easily dial in the exact temp.

If the ambient temp where you keep the fridge is below your ale fermenting temp, you can rewire the controller to heat instead of cool and connect the lightbulb to that.  It was pretty simple to do on mine, you just take off the cover and switch the wires.

If the ambient temp is warmer, you might as well stick with the controller.

So, you're saying the Johnson will turn on the bulb when the temp drops below say 65F?  Now that's slick!

432
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation Room Temp
« on: August 30, 2010, 12:48:16 PM »
A 40 watt light is enough to heat my chest freezer in the winter. I could have rewired my temp controller to heat mode but I just let the freezer to cool it down if it gets too hot.

Thanks.  Now we're talking.  As it is in southern Oregon, the winters are too cold for even lager fermentation.  It will get down into the 20s, and occasionally into the teens, usually hovering in the 40s.

So, with an ambient room temp of say 40F, a 40-watt bulb should keep my refrigerator at ale fermentation temp?
I understand that direct light on the carboy is to be avoided, but what about indirect, light that is reflected off the insides of the refrigerator, onto the carboy? 

I use a Johnson Temp Controller with a single dial.  Should I disconnect it during the winter months, and just run the refrigerator/freezer in normal mode, i.e., use the refrigerator's own internal thermostat?  Just wondering which would be easier on the fridge.  It seems that using the Johnson might still be the way to go as I could more easily dial in the exact temp.




433
General Homebrew Discussion / Fermentation Room Temp
« on: August 29, 2010, 03:09:02 PM »
I have an uninsulated shop where I ferment my lagers during the summer months.  I use a side-by-side refrigerator-freezer in the shop for the actual fermentation.  My problem occurs in the winter months when I can't keep the shop warm enough.  Ultimately, I would do all my fermenting in the shop (ales and lagers) if it wasn't for the winter nights in southern Oregon dropping too low.  What would be a cost effective way to maintain a mid 60s room temp during the winter months?

434
Ingredients / Domestic Challenger...English Bittering Hops...
« on: August 29, 2010, 01:31:56 PM »
I'm getting back into the English ale kick, and see that there is a domestic Challenger hop available through Hops Direct.  How close to the English hop is it? 

How critical to an English pale is the bittering hop?  If I used Magnum in place of either Challenger or Target, would it be obvious in the glass, provided I stuck to either EKGs or Fuggles as the flavor/aroma addition?

435
Beer Recipes / Re: Diabetic and Beer
« on: August 29, 2010, 12:58:11 PM »
Have them drink it along side a meal.

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