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Messages - alcaponejunior

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301
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Milk stout recipe
« on: February 08, 2012, 04:31:06 PM »
This is the recipe I have up next for a sweet stout, which is almost identical, but not quite (has less specialty grains).  Since we're discussing it, anyone who wishes to comment, please do!  I'm interested in the differences and what you experienced guys think about this recipe verses the one above.  Since CSU007 and I are brewing about the same thing at about the same time, it will be interesting to see how each one comes out.  I could still alter my recipe if need be, but I think I'm going to go with this and try it as-is if nobody has any majorly important reasons why I should not.  I might try CSU's recipe he goes with in the future if his goes well too!

more beer LME light 6.0 lbs
12 oz crystal malt
1 lb black patent malt
2 oz cascade (6.4AA) 60 minutes
Safale S-04 dry yeast

4 oz corn sugar for bottling.

Estimated OG 1.045-1.048
Estimated IBUs 38-42
Estimated ABV 4.5%
Suggested fermentation temp 65-68 (will likely be 68-69, closet temp is pretty steady)
LME and lactose added before boil, total boil 60 minutes
rehydrate yeast at 95F in a cup of boiled spring water

They don't mention aeration of wort before pitching.  Any suggestions using this yeast?

And CSU... good luck!!

302
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is it just me?
« on: February 07, 2012, 04:09:21 PM »
alright maybe not EXACTLY like a hefe. but as I bit into my banana this morning there was a definite hefe note. It was a little overripe so that could have had something to do with it. I liked it. ate it all up. yum

I also love bananas...and love hefe's.  :)

Recipe for banana hef?

303
It also helps to think of centennmial as a "super cascade". I like cascade well enough and it is a good sub for centennial (and vise versa) but I actually prefer centennial's aroma quality.

Definitely +1 to the sweet stout comments. On a beer like that I would personally use magnum just because it is cheap, abundant and provides a very clean bitterness, but if you want to use what you have go centennial because you will use much less and there will be less chance the hop flavor will emerge. Unless you are really talking about an American Stout.

I think you pushed me over the edge towards "going for it" and dry-hopping my IPA today with the cascade, and bittering the stout with the centennial.  Thanks!  I will (eventually) report how they both come out. 

304
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottles aren't carbonating.
« on: February 05, 2012, 11:34:33 AM »
I just tried a 12oz of my Al's Celebration Ale (see sig) yesterday, and it was definitely carbonated after ten days, but not quite ready yet.  Since that was my first batch, I was mostly just very happy to discover that it came out good!  Note that these are being carbonated using 2/3 cup* of corn sugar, and the temperature is pretty steadily about 70F.  It was obvious that they needed more time to condition though, so be patient. 

I will be waiting until at least 20 days before trying another 12oz.  I just learned in this thread that bigger bottles take a bit longer, so I will wait a little longer on those. 

*we weighed it, not measured, but we weighed out enough for TWO batches, and what I actually used was divided by eye, so it's probably not entirely precise, but it's pretty close.

305
Exactly the answers I wanted, although it doesn't make my decision much easier. 

Basically I can dry hop my IPA now with cascade and wait to brew the stout with centennial.  Or I can skip dry hopping the IPA and just use the cascade for the stout (sweet or otherwise). 

Either way, I'm not to worried about it.  But I have the cascade now, in the prime zone for secondary for dry-hopping the IPA.  In about five days I'll have the centennial, probably fine for bittering a stout, but a bit too late for dry-hopping an IPA.  No rush to brew the sweet/American stout tho.  I don't know the recipe so it could well be more of an American stout, which would be fine by me.  Exact ingredients available if anyone cares enough to ask.

Just tossin' ideas around.  I would like to try the dry hopping on the IPA, but if I wait to try it, I'll have to wait till after the stout, because I don't see dry-hopping as a good idea for the stout brew.  Will have to wait till the brew after that if I don't dry-hop now.

I would like to have dry hopped batch one (Al's celebration clone ale) but it's too late.  It came out something like an amber ale.  I will elaborate more on that in the appropriate thread in about ten days. 

Great answers, BTW.  Great place this forum!

306
Commercial Beer Reviews / DFH worldwide stout
« on: February 04, 2012, 04:03:55 PM »
I've had about ten of these since I started trading, some of them a couple of years old.  Having a (relatively) fresh one now, again I'm just LOVING it.  This is my favorite imperial stout by a mile.

It's just friggin' perfect.  Anyone got a clone recipe?

I've seen the DFH 120 clone recipe, and I'm no where near anything even close to attempting it anytime soon.  I'm just curious is all.  I might try it in the distant future though...  ;D

Damn this stuff is delicious!!

307
Ingredients / Re: Rye
« on: February 04, 2012, 03:13:59 PM »
I'm not a judge, but you can send me a bottle and I'll tell you if it's awful or not.  ;D

I love rye beers, btw.

308
General question.

Suppose I have both centennial and cascade hops.  In the near future I'm planning on brewing a sweet stout.  This calls for cascade hops.  What if I substituted centennial?  

Obviously I would make sure to do the calculations for the AAs to make sure the bittering would be proportional.  The stout calls for a single hops addition, if I recall (no dry hopping).

Now, different beer...what about dry hopping an IPA with cascade instead of centennial?  I'm considering dry hopping an IPA recipe and need to decide.

I only have two ounces of cascade but plenty of centennial.  The two ounces is just enough for the sweet stout and also just enough for the dry hopping of the IPA.  Since I have little experience I'm kinda hoping someone has a strong opinion that will make it crystal clear which way to go.

This is purely newbie curiosity.  No actions have been taken!  If I don't get any WOW answers I'll stick with dry hopping with centennial and brewing the sweet stout with cascade.

I can get the suppliers if need be.  

309
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: How long till serious bubbling occurs?
« on: January 31, 2012, 06:55:35 PM »
Dang it, you guys got me curious now.  Sanitized a wine thief, carefully opened bucket and took a sample for SG, 1.015.  Fermentation is mostly done after all, without much obvious bubbling, because it does look like high krausen has passed (there's gunk along the sides of the bucket up to about an inch from the top).  Sample was very cloudy and yeasty but tasted and smelled pretty beery (and actually quite dry, and good, at least for what I expected, the bitterness had dropped and so did the sweetness).  It will probably come out good if my inexperienced homebrewer's pallet means anything. 

I probably should have just waited, but I need to know this kind of stuff now, while I'm learning and the batch cost/effort was fairly low.

I still plan to wait to bottle till the 10th (or a day or two later, depending on when is practical).  I don't plan to take another gravity reading until the 8th or 9th.  I highly doubt there's any chance of making bottle bombs at this point.  I will move it to the bottling counter area on the 8th or 9th, to allow time to settle before racking to the bottling carboy.

Last batch used 2/3 cup corn sugar for bottle conditioning.  I have two bags of sugar left, 2/3 cup and 3/4 cup.  It's only a 1/12 of a cup different, but I'm curious if I can notice the difference in the final product.  May be futile to attempt to differentiate because all the batches are different in so many other parameters, but batch 1 and 2 in this five gallon setup are both IPAs, so I'll probably use the 3/4 cup on this batch.   Next batch is a sweet stout.

Bah!!  I'm just going to have another beer and quit worrying about it all for tonight.  Thanks guys!

310
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: How long till serious bubbling occurs?
« on: January 31, 2012, 06:16:01 PM »
Not sure why/if/how-to rehydrate dry yeast.

Every manufacturer has slightly different directions, but they're all basically the same. For Nottingham: http://www.danstaryeast.com/sites/default/files/nottingham_datasheet.pdf

That's handy to know for next time.  My next batch is stored and I'm too lazy to look it up right now... but will make sure to do more research on the yeast before the next batch is brewed. 

Given that the directions and seller didn't tell me all that stuff, what should I expect?  Will it just take a bit longer?  Will the beer come out as expected?  I've read elsewhere to just pitch the dry yeast directly, what would be the advantage/disadvantage to that?  Why? Be specific with scientific information if you like, I will understand.

I know I'm picking the brains of you guys, but that's what this place is about, right?

thanks!

311
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: How long till serious bubbling occurs?
« on: January 31, 2012, 05:50:28 PM »
Done or not, I hadn't planned to sample it for gravity until at least Feb 10th (14 day mark).

There is some chance it might not seal perfectly, but the last batch did vigorously bubble (was done with Wyeast 1469 with starter).

I am being patient though, just curious.  I have no intention of messing with it until the 10th at the earliest.

312
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: How long till serious bubbling occurs?
« on: January 31, 2012, 05:34:51 PM »
Done in four days?

Followed directions on recipe.  Not sure why/if/how-to rehydrate dry yeast.

313
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / How long till serious bubbling occurs?
« on: January 31, 2012, 05:07:57 PM »
BEER ALERT
( I just had to try the marquee  ;D )


OK.  Noob question here.  

Last link in my signature if you want the entire recipe/procedures used.  Short version here:

I made an English IPA last Friday (four days ago).  Used Nottingham Ale Yeast, 11g (0.388oz) Saccharomyces cerevisiae top fermenting yeast.  5.5 gallons.  OG 1.052.  Pitched directly, no starter.  Waited about five minutes, then aerated vigorously with sanitized spoon.  Temps have been slightly cool but by no means cold.  Approximate average ambient room temperature inside closet has been 65-69.  It was at the warmer side on day one, cloaked bucket with slightly wet towel.  Towel has since dried.  May re-wet if temps seem to be likely to go over 72F.  NO chance of over 72 or under 64 F inside closet, 68-69 is pretty steady.

So how soon till vigorous bubbling should occur?  Will it?  Any guesses on approximate brew time if conditions remain like this?  

Is there ever any need to make a starter for dry yeast?  If so, any recommendations thereof?  I did save a 12oz bottle of wort from this batch.  Whether it becomes useful in the future or not, well, I don't know.  

All comments (and the ramifications thereof) welcome.  Please do elaborate in great detail.

Thanks!

al

314
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First try at a session IPA
« on: January 31, 2012, 04:52:47 PM »
It almost sounds like what you are after is a stone levitation type beer that's not a red.  I love levitation for its hoppy-ness and its low ABV.  I'll be watching this thread with interest because I too would love to have a low ABV, high hop homebrew that rivals levitation for goodness (whether red, pale, or other). 

Anybody else with good recipes along these lines please do elaborate in great detail (or PM me if you don't want to derail this thread).


315
Looks delicious with all those late addition hops.

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