I was wondering what factors should be considered when determining a grain absorption rate. Is there any significant difference in wheat versus barley? If you are brewing 10 gallons of pale ale or 10 gallons hefeweizen, any noticeable difference in water needed? Is this something to consider when it's on a commercial scale (50-100bbl)?
Trying to get an accurate evaporation percentage for the system settings in Pro Mash. I am also making adjustments to my RIMS PID. Since i just wanted to run water through system, would i get different results than the same volume of say 1.060? Does water boil off faster than wort? And does Wort heat up faster/slower than water with the same heat being applied. Is the difference to minuscule to even worry about? Thanks.
It just started fermenting, but in 4 days i am going on vacation for 2 weeks. since i cant be here to do a D-rest, what should I set my temp at? I started at 48 and was gonna bring up to 50 tonight. Can I still do a DR after 2 weeks? Dang, I wish there was a temperature controller app for smart phone. Oh yeah, it's Wyeast 2278.
I want to do a 2-decoction for this and was thinking about using all RO water. What, and how much should i add to 10 gallons total mash/sparge water? Tried setting up Bruin water but i get bogged down with all the numbers- I just want to brew! Can someone help?
i made a 3 liter starter yesterday using 9 oz DME. when i added it to the water it turned a gray color. After boiling i let it cool and it's very dark brown almost black. i used extra pale DME. what causes this?
I'm making a starter this weekend using 2 packages Wyeast czech pils. i read somewhere the yeast is actually in the liquid, not in the blister. Was wondering if i should: a) just dump the liquid in my starter, b) smack, mix and then dump in, or c) smack, wait to swell and then pitch to my starter?
I bottled some porter last April in swing tops. Had one the other week and seemed over carbonated. Last night I was cleaning and heard a pop; knew exactly what it was. These are pretty heave glass too. I have had this happen to several beers I cellar for long periods. The yeast I used was a dry fermentis I can't remember the type, just that it was in a light green packet. And I know it didn't flocculate very well. So what do you think is going on? Usually I FC! But this one I think was bottle conditioned. Too much priming? Or is it there's still some fermentation going on? I have a dry stout that was FC'd, tastes fine except it is now overcarbed has that co2 taste. Is it just some beers need to be consumed faster?
I have a March pump for transferring my wort around but in the summer months i like to do my boils outside. the pump is situated alongside my RIMS just a couple inches off the basement floor. I live in a split foyer and want to run a hose from the pump, outside to a kettle, the bottom of which is about 4' above the pump. I was thinking about hooking the hose to the QD/valve on the bottom of the kettle and pumping the wort up into the kettle. my concern is whether the pump can handle 8-10 gallons of pressure in it as the kettle fills. Any fluid dynamics folks know if this will work ok?
Reviewing a couple double decoction mash schedules I noticed the first decoction gets pulled from the protein rest; goes through a short Beta rest and returned to the main mash after decocting for a period. this means the main mash stays at a protein rest for 2 or more hours. And with today's well modified malts, especially the US varieties, isn't that going to destroy any head retention? I thought 30 minutes at 122-129 was about the max you would want to be at that level? I have had excellent results decocting between Beta and Alpha rests and didnt see the point to decoct into mashout. What am I missing?