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Messages - Pi

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All Grain Brewing / Protein rest in RIP
« on: August 29, 2012, 06:25:01 AM »
Here's my grain bill:
Amt Name Type # %
19 lbs 12.0 oz Pale Malt, Golden Promise (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 62.4 %
3 lbs Biscuit Malt (23.0 SRM) Grain 2 9.5 %
2 lbs Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 3 6.3 %
2 lbs Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 4 6.3 %
2 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (2.0 SRM) Grain 5 6.3 %
1 lbs Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 6 3.2 %
14.4 oz Aromatic Malt (26.0 SRM) Grain 7 2.8 %
1 lbs Amber Dry Extract (12.5 SRM) Dry Extract 8 3.2 %

The pale, biscuit pilsner and Aromatic were all crushed together; the dark malts and the flaked barley are separate. I was gonna add the dark malts at mashout, and maybe decoct the flaked barley. So do you think I should even do a P rest?

Ingredients / Re: Czech versus US Saaz in a Bohemian Pilsner
« on: August 29, 2012, 06:18:16 AM »
What do you think about using the US Saaz for bittering, and the Czech for flavor and aroma?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Adding melanodin malt
« on: August 22, 2012, 01:14:19 PM »
So how much % in the grist do you use?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter
« on: August 22, 2012, 01:01:43 PM »
I put a drop of Fermcap in the flask to prevent boilovers (and constant watching;; once you get a boilover you dont want to do it again for sure).
So 10 minutes seems to be the consensus. if ysing freshly sparged wort, do/should you use any nutrient. I dont reall understand how nutrient works FWIW.

Yeast and Fermentation / Starter
« on: August 22, 2012, 05:07:24 AM »
How long do you boil a starter? And does it matter?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitch Lagers Warm and Chill?
« on: August 17, 2012, 03:07:16 PM »
Wow, Thanks for that knowledge you guys. I get fresh hefe and find I almost always have to do a D-rest. I wondered where it was coming from... Now I Know!! Next batch I'll pitch cool and warm up to fermentation.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: aluminum "bottle cans"
« on: August 17, 2012, 10:53:05 AM »
Heineken comes in aluminum bottles now. Goes down easier than Bud, especially since it's not skunked.
I use the green Heineken bottles for beer i'm giving away since i have a friend who drinks alot of Heineken and the plastic labels dont come off when you wash.
I went to a Roger Waters concert at the Verizon center and the aluminum Bud bottles were everywhere which gave me the idea. I do alot of backpacking and boating and like the idea of non-glass bottles. also much lighter than glass. I'll try a case of these and see how long they hold up.
In the meantime, if LHBSs can get generic-looking aluminum bottles I would be all over it.
And as far as the BPH thing, how long does beer have to be in contact with the plastic to absorb a measurable amount of BPH?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Palmer's Spreadsheet - Kettle addition
« on: August 17, 2012, 10:33:28 AM »
"Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers" by John Palmer was supposed to come out back in April. Anyone know about this?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pitch Lagers Warm and Chill?
« on: August 17, 2012, 10:09:31 AM »
Just my 2 cents, but wouldn't pitching at a slightly higher temperature get the yeast going quicker, thereby reducing the lag time and chance of infection? I don't know enough about yeast behavior to substantiate this but if given a choice between off-flavors vs. infection I would rule in favor of the latter.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Airborne Infection
« on: August 17, 2012, 09:57:57 AM »
All very good Ideas. I guess I should consider myself lucky considering my environment (a basement that can get rather dank in the summer). This thread should serve as a reminder to all that one should not get complacent with sanitation in the brewery. A little like fighting terrorism, the minute you let your guard down those who wish to do harm will find that weak spot.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Adding water to yeast
« on: August 17, 2012, 09:44:57 AM »
Thanks, makes sense. I ended up adding a small amount of 1.040 wort about an hour or so before pitching. It gave the yeast just enough to make it pour-able.

Yeast and Fermentation / Adding water to yeast
« on: August 16, 2012, 01:07:39 PM »
I got some nice healthy lager hefe from a local brewery right off the bottom. It' was real thick and foamy so my 2 liter flask has reduced to one overnight. trouble is when i go to pitch, alot of the yeast stays stuck to the inside of the flask.
I was thinking about adding some liquid to the yeast to thin it down (Water? Beer?) and putting it on a stir plate. Dont think I need to add wort as this is some pretty fresh stuff. And if I add water, does it need to be boiled coming right out of the tap? Your thoughts appreciated.

All Grain Brewing / Re: 2 gallons in my dead space
« on: August 16, 2012, 12:57:05 PM »
My MT is a converted keg and my FB sits on the transition from the sides to the domed bottom.  I have about 2 gallons beneath the FB.  Since I fly sparge and draw from the bottom, and I vorlauf 2 gallons, I have not found any problems with getting up to 80% efficiency.
+1 here
I use an inverted keg with the "bottom" cut out. FB fits like Harbicide's and i get zero dead space loss. When calculating mash thickness I add 6L. to 1.25 liters per pound to account for the dead space and hit my strike temp. every time. It took a couple batches to dial in the correct thermal mass, now i'm getting consistent 85-87% efficiency with a fly sparge (not getting into the batch vs. fly sparge debate here).

Ingredients / Re: Now THAT's some fresh yeast
« on: August 14, 2012, 10:52:59 AM »
I'm sorry in advance if I am off-topic; if there's a better place please move me.
Anyway, I got a nice cake from an Oktoberfest; i was thinking about using for a Boh Pils. Just racked the beer off after 2 weeks of primary so i am guessing it's still pretty fresh. Probably wont brew for a couple days, so what's yer method for storing? I put about 500ml of the slurry in a flask and topped up to 1l. with water. Do you think i should add some wort to rev it up or direct pitch?

Ingredients / Czech versus US Saaz in a Bohemian Pilsner
« on: August 08, 2012, 08:32:13 AM »
I got some of both. the Czech Saaz is 3% alpha and the US is a whopping 8% (both pellets). Never used the US version. What 's the difference besides the obvious? I'll probably use the higher alpha US for bittering, and the Czech for aroma/flavor.

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