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Messages - Pi

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256
Ingredients / Re: Dry hopping using pellets
« on: December 21, 2011, 12:18:22 PM »
Dry hopping is done after primary fermentation. The co2 produced will help to carry away the aroma , and the hop oils will latch onto the yeast cells and drop out with the yeast.
Yet another mystery solved!! I have dry hopped before but always in the primary and during fermentation. I often wondered why That fresh hop aroma was never as full as expected, but this quote explains things. I think when this batch settles down in a few days, I'll toss another 1/2oz into the primary. After a week I'll rack to a corny, cold crash and FC.
Thanks AGAIN for the great advice

257
Beer Recipes / Re: Genesee Cream Ale Clone
« on: December 21, 2011, 10:29:56 AM »
Requested from another thread:

This is Skotrats "Gennesee My Butt"

Brewing Method: All Grain
Yeast: WYEAST 2035
Yeast Starter: 1/2 gallon
Batch Size: 15.5 US Gallons
Original Gravity: 1.049
Final Gravity: 1.010
Alcohol Content: 4.5-5.0 %
Total Grains: 30
Color: 4.4
Extract Efficiency: 75 %
Hop IBU's: 22.9
Boiling Time: 70 minutes
Primary Fermentation: 7 days at 62f
Secondary Fermentation: 7 days at 58f
Additional Fermentation: lagered in corny keg

Grain Bill:
17.00 lbs. Lager Malt(6-row) Canada 1.031 1
6.00 lbs. Flaked Corn (Maize) America 1.040 1
3.00 lbs. Vienna Malt America 1.035 4
2.00 lbs. Munich Malt(light) America 1.033 10
2.00 lbs. Crystal 10L America 1.035 10


Hop Bill:
4.00 oz. Liberty Whole 3.40 60 min.
4.00 oz. Liberty Whole 3.40 5 min.

Mash Schedule:

Mash Type: Single Step
Saccharification Rest Temp : 152 Time: 90
Mash-out Rest Temp : 166 Time: 10
Sparge Temp : 170 Time: 70


Thinking about brewing this one. I am a little confused when it come to the yeast/fermentation. Wyeast calls for 48*-58*, yet Scotrat's recipe says primary at 62* then another week at 58*. Does this seem correct? Shouldnt I be using an ALE yeast for a cream ale?

258
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Suddenly Chill Haze
« on: December 21, 2011, 09:58:12 AM »
Interesting topic. I as of late have been getting some really cloudy beers. I have been waiting about 20 minutes or so after the boil for the hot break to settle before pumping thru a CFWC. Think I should transfer immediatly after the boil?

259
Kegging and Bottling / PBW question
« on: December 21, 2011, 07:58:57 AM »
Just used PBW for the first time the other day and noticed a strange reaction. When i unscrewed the lid, the granules started jumping out of the jar, like charged particules. Strangest thing. When I went to scoop it just got worse. Anyone seen this happen, and how do you get this stuff in the carboy/kettle without it going all over the place?

260
Ingredients / Dry hopping using pellets
« on: December 20, 2011, 07:25:28 PM »
Brewed a pale ale tonight and, tossed in the remaining 3/4oz Simcoe pellets into the fermenter. How do you dry hop? Are pellets ok, and if so, how much. Do you sanitize them. I Was thinking about giving them a grain alcohol bath before dumping them in but was not sure if the yeasties would get pissed.

261
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cold crashing a Schwartz
« on: December 20, 2011, 02:07:13 PM »
I was thinking about using a different strain of (lager) yeast for the DR. how much (if any) will this change the flavor of the beer?

262
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Starter Temp Question
« on: December 20, 2011, 08:29:25 AM »
Lots of great information on this forum!

Since the beer has such a high OG and I will be using the Wyeast Brewers Choice Yeast Nutrient for the first time, I expect a pretty big Krausen, so I will be using a blow-off tube for the first time too.........just in case!
If you use Fermcap you can lose the blowoff tube.

263
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cold crashing a Schwartz
« on: December 17, 2011, 07:51:02 AM »
Took a sample to the master brewer at a Gordon Biersch and he said it was diacetyl. It was cold when we first tasted it and you couldnt really taste it. But when we slightly warmed some and cooled to room temp you could really taste/smell it. It's not as bad as i first thought. I am going to bring the beer up to 50* andtry kreusening with some active yeast for a week and see if it will drop the diacetal. I'll let you know what happens.

264
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Cold crashing a Schwartz
« on: December 16, 2011, 09:08:57 AM »
At 44F, you are fermenting almost 50% slower than at 52F.  For every 18 degrees, reaction rates double.  A beer that required 2 weeks to ferment at 52F would likely take 3 weeks at 44F, maybe even 4 if a large percentage of the yeast were lulled to sleep.  A gravity reading is your best friend right now.  Taste it too, and see if you should do a diacetyl rest before crashing. 
HMMM, I racked today at 32* and there is a funky sort of off flavor/smell. almost like rotten vegetables, maybe cooked corn? wondering what i did wrong. Infection perhaps? is it too late for  a DR?

265
Equipment and Software / Re: PH meter
« on: December 09, 2011, 06:38:14 AM »

The probe went bad on my old meter and it costs 70 bucks to replace, no thanks, and honestly, I don't know why a homebrewer would need a meter to read two decimal (.01) accuracy.
How'd you know the probe went bad?

266
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash thickness using a RIMS
« on: December 09, 2011, 05:53:52 AM »


if your RIMS essentially boils the wort and dumps it into the mash tun, then you're denaturing the enzymes...
Thermocouple is just out of the heating unit (An electric water heater element in  a 14"X1 1/2" Copper pipe) and never overshoots rest temp. And, as a saftey, the heater will only heat if the pump is running. So no worries there. I average 81% effeciency, but sometimes I get like 86-88%. Guess i should review my notes. I thought the flux had more to do with grain types.

267
Equipment and Software / PH meter
« on: December 08, 2011, 06:14:02 AM »
Can anyone recomend a decent PH meter for the homebrewer? I've seen them for around 100 bucks. Would make a nice xmas present.

268
Yeast and Fermentation / Cold crashing a Schwartz
« on: December 08, 2011, 06:01:56 AM »
It's been at 44* F for2 weeks and i thinkit's done. I started dropping the temp 2 degrees per day (at 38 now). Can i just take it straight down to 28-30 and hold it there for a couple weeks? What are the benefits? I dont want to rush things, but is there much difference?

269
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash thickness using a RIMS
« on: December 08, 2011, 05:46:21 AM »
 Thanks for putting this to "rest". Did a little reading last night and from what I can tell, mash thickness has little effect; and I should be more attentive to temperature and rest lenghts.

270
All Grain Brewing / Mash thickness using a RIMS
« on: December 07, 2011, 03:00:48 PM »
Apologies if I am in the wrong group for this thread ???
I have about 6L deadspace to account for all wort on the "other side" of the false bottom. About 1L is in the pipes etc. So since I am recirculating my liquor, do I have much say in the matter when it comes down to enzyme activity in my mash?
Forming a recipe, if guidlines tell me to shoot for a thickness of 1 qt/lb/gal., for 10lbs. grain I would do 10 qts+my deadspace (about 6L.) so 16L. right? But if my liquor is recirculating, just where are the enzymes at, grain or liquor, or both?

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