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Messages - Pi

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46
Equipment and Software / Re: Promash question regarding batch size
« on: May 01, 2014, 08:01:13 AM »
Thanks guys,
I did a couple test recipes and concluded the same. I made another observation: brewing is alot like training a dog to behave- when it's not doing what you expect it to do, it's probably something YOU'RE doing wrong!

47
Equipment and Software / Re: GIve Up on ProMash??
« on: May 01, 2014, 06:56:03 AM »
I have been very satisfied with Promash. And as stated earlier, it's only a tool. I am always tweaking things, and it did take some time to get some of the defaults (efficiency, thermal mass, grain abrorption etc) dialed in.
There are 2 things i would like to see: if they could provide database update(s) for grain and hops; and maybe enhance the decoction dialog box to do multiple decoctions like Kai's (see http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Decoction_Mashing#Hochkurz_Double_Decoction)

48
Equipment and Software / Promash question regarding batch size
« on: May 01, 2014, 05:48:08 AM »
Are they say the batch size is what ends up in the fermenter or what is left in the kettle? I was wondering if it is using the default water usage data/mash schedule.

49
Yeast and Fermentation / Making a starter using sweet wort
« on: April 30, 2014, 07:45:01 AM »
Im brewing a pale ale (AG) today and wanted to use some of the sweet wort for a starter for big brew this weekend. Should i boil these runnings first?

50
Yeast and Fermentation / Repitching question
« on: April 22, 2014, 10:20:33 AM »
Just did an oyster stout using White labs london ale yeast. think I could use the yeast again for something like a pale ale or ESB? will the oatstout oysters carry over?

51
Ingredients / oyster stout question
« on: April 21, 2014, 06:12:34 AM »
In Zymurgy's March/April issue J. Wilson's Pearl Juice Oyster Oatmeal stout. I brewed following his recipe adding 6 whole oysters and 6 shucked in the last 20 minutes of the boil. I treated 5 gallons of mash water with 1tbs. five star PhAdjust for a mash Ph of 5.6. I added 1tsp gypsum to the 90 minute boil.
3 Tubes of WLP13 London ale in 1.063 wort, I got nice fermentation going at steady 68 degrees, but a little surprised there's not much kraeusen given the 2lbs flaked oats in the grist (not to mention the 2 drops fermcap in the boil). Do you think with the shells, the salt from the oyster liquor, and the added gypsum there's too much calcium? Not worrying here, just expected a little more blowoff. This is also first time trying this strain of yeast.

52
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is my starter too old?
« on: April 18, 2014, 07:49:03 AM »
I made a 1.5l london ale starter about 3.5 weeks ago. After it settled down i put it in the fridge. I was planning on brewing tomorrow. Should I Make another starter, start over, or just decant and pitch?

wouldn't hurt to make another starter. what are you brewing?
Oyster stout. I think i might just make another starter.

53
Yeast and Fermentation / Is my starter too old?
« on: April 18, 2014, 07:43:43 AM »
I made a 1.5l london ale starter about 3.5 weeks ago. After it settled down i put it in the fridge. I was planning on brewing tomorrow. Should I Make another starter, start over, or just decant and pitch?

54
Yeast and Fermentation / DR after ferment complete?
« on: March 29, 2014, 08:50:17 AM »
I have an american lager that fermented at ~54 for 2 weeks. Obviously no visible fermentation going on, but was wondering if i can get any benefit from a 65* diacetyl for a few days?

55
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 2565 Kolsch
« on: January 13, 2014, 08:26:43 AM »
White Labs WLP029, my favorite for Kolsch. Using it in an Alt right now. If you can cool your wort to around 62*(Ice bath?) when you pitch, then let it warm up to 68*. fermentation is done in like 3 or 4 days. a very clean strain IMO.

56
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Secondary options
« on: January 13, 2014, 08:06:29 AM »

Some guys wait until fermentation is completely over.  My guess is that the timing there doesn't matter much.
Having a little fermenting going on helps carry away oxygen trapped in the hops (yes, there's o2 even in pellets). too much fermentation carries away flavor/aroma defeating the purpose of dry hopping. i put my hops in the primaryfor a week or so and rack to another carboy for a day or so if I'm kegging, so I dont suck any hops up the dip tube.

57
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Secondary Poll
« on: January 13, 2014, 07:57:31 AM »
I dont bother with a secondary either. If dry hopping, i like to wait till fermentation slows (3-4 days) then toss the hops in the primary. The light fermentation activity helps carry away the O2 in the hops. After dryhopping i may transfer to another carboy for a day or so before kegging to make sure i dont pick up any hops. Nothing more frustrating than sucking up a hop leaf clogging the pin lock.

58
Equipment and Software / Re: New discovery
« on: January 13, 2014, 07:35:24 AM »
I used to crush using a Valley Mill, but have all but abandoned it. I just have it milled at the homebrew shop. I found I was spending alot of time on brew day tinkering with getting the rollers "just right". And I only buy what i use, so I dont have all sorts if malt/specialty grains sitting around getting old and "musty". Only drawback is once it's crushed, it should be brewed fairly quickly to retain its freshness.

59
Equipment and Software / Re: Hose material
« on: January 13, 2014, 07:17:46 AM »
Never had a problem pumping hot wort thru silicon tubing. How High is the pump? I mounted mine below the BK and my cavitation problems went away. 1/2" ID silicon tubing fits tight around the 1/2" NPT cam-lock fittings (www.bargainfittings.com)for max flow. And an Oetiker clamp insures it wont come off.
I'm looking for 3/16"ID hose that's more flexible then the crap vinyl tubing from Home Depot. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

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