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Messages - erockrph

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Ingredients / Re: Belgian pilsner malt
« on: Today at 06:56:06 AM »
I honestly don't think you'll be able to discern any difference in a BDS ale. On the whole, Belgian pils malt often has a slight grape note where German pils doesn't. A good strategy is to blend a Belgian pils like Dingemann or Castle 50/50 with a Belgian pale malt, to get a little more depth and complexity.
+1 - I started using Castle Pils 50-50 or 60-40 with Crisp Maris Otter as my base for dark Belgians and a few years back and I've been very happy with my results.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Online Home Brew Stores
« on: Today at 06:44:27 AM »
I haven't used NB or Midwest since MoreBeer opened their PA warehouse. I have also had good luck with:

Rebel Brewer (good grain selection)
Adventures in Homebrewing (great for kegs)
Austin Homebrew Supply

For hops I primarily use Farmhouse Brewing Supplies and/or Yakima Valley Hops (especially for newer/experimental varieties, and harder-to-find imports), but I will usually place an order with Hop Heaven, Freshops and/or Hops Direct most seasons as well.

Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: Today at 06:09:59 AM »
I forgot about this one. Best "Session IPA" I've ever brewed:

I'm actually intrigued by this one. What makes it so special, the recipe being stupidly simple and all that...?
The simple recipe is what makes it stand out. Maybe its because there's a reasonable amount of hops that doesn't drown out what little malt there is, coupled with a flavorful yeast that doesn't ferment bone dry. In other words, it's a balanced beer that is pretty much the antithesis of a modern American attempt at a Session IPA.

The Pub / Re: Whiskey
« on: December 03, 2016, 11:18:48 AM »
I almost bought a bottle of the Balcenie Double Wood today...glad I didn't after seeing what everyone else is paying for it.

I did buy a bottle of Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength. I've still yet to try any Scotch that tops this one, but keep in mind I love peat. I've got several bottles of Islay Malt, the regular Laphroaig 10 and the cask strength version are still my favorites, especially considering the price.

I think you and I are in the minority here - I love the smoky, peaty ones too, aside from the cleaner ones like Balvenie. If I had to pick one Scotch only, it'd probably be a Lagavulin but it's kind of like trying to pick your favorite kid.  :)
Same here. Laphroaig is our house scotch and both my girlfriend and I almost exclusively drink Islay scotch. And I love me a smoking gun!
Big peat fan, myself. I have at least one bottle from every Islay distillery except for Port Ellen. The best scotch I've ever had was a 30-year old Ardbeg - plenty of peat left after all that time, but so smooth. And as far as peat goes, you can't beat Johnnie Black for a blended scotch (although Sheep Dip is pretty nice, too). I have the Double Black as well, but that is a bit heavier on the oak to the point where it overtakes the peat.

Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: December 03, 2016, 08:25:30 AM »
Ok, but my assumption is that the brewery wants an American style beer.
Take the Whitbread recipe and sub out extra Pale Ale malt for the sugar, sub out Magnum for the bittering hops, Citra for the finishing hops, and use the lowest-attenuating ale strain you have access to. Mash in the upper 150's, 148F was too low for modern malts using the Whitbread recipe as posted on Ron's website.

Ingredients / Re: Pot Brownie
« on: December 03, 2016, 08:19:25 AM »
Proper etiquette for serving that beer to people  would be sitting in a circle and passing it around.
Chug, chug, give?

Equipment and Software / Re: Mash Caps
« on: December 03, 2016, 08:16:30 AM »
Yoga mats? Like Subway?  There's gotta be a better way,  IMO

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

There is. We speak about it here:

Though it's not a 1 size fits all solution, nor "cheap".
Thanks for the pics. Here I was thinking that I needed something to rig up something absolutely snug-fitting to make this worthwhile at all. It looks like I just need to find a cake pan that fits pretty close to the walls of my cooler, possibly padded with some aluminum foil to make the gap as small as I can - the goal being to mitigate air exposure rather than eliminate it entirely, right?

Ingredients / Re: Pot Brownie
« on: December 03, 2016, 07:59:23 AM »
This thread reminds me of an idea I had years back to brew an all-Columbus IPA using a musty/funky Brett strain and calling it "1970's basement".

Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: December 02, 2016, 11:42:10 AM »
I forgot about this one. Best "Session IPA" I've ever brewed:

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle Spunding Trappist Ales
« on: December 02, 2016, 11:33:20 AM »
Interesting idea. Which has me wondering whether spunding in the keg (particularly if you're already using a keg as your primary fermenter) prior to bottling would confer similar advantages to bottle-spunding, with the added advantage of being able to check your carbonation prior to bottling.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Lactobacillus starter
« on: December 02, 2016, 11:28:17 AM »
This is a fine process for what you are doing because you use such a small amount of soured wort in a batch; however, it is a bad beer waiting to happen at a larger scale. Using luck of the draw to culture off grain increases the probability of off flavors in the beer because the volume of off flavor compounds is far greater in a full batch soured in this method over five percent or less that you use. That's not to say one cannot ever get a good sour beer out of this process but the probability is not great. That's why most brewers kettle souring use selected lactobacillus strains.

That is not my finding. When properly acidified to under 4.5 and kept anaerobic, the potential to develop off-flavored or spoiling organisms is exceedingly small. In addition, when creating a starter culture this way, you have the ultimate QC equipment in the form of your nose and palate to check the result prior to use.

And the risk of having some yeast or other organism in your soured wort is also not a concern if you are using this wort in typical pre-boil settings. That soured wort will be fully sterilized via the boil.

My experience with pure lacto strains is that they have narrow flavor profiles that are not pleasing in finished beers. Using the handful of grain inoculation is an effective way to create a flavorful and safe starter.
I agree with all of this, with the qualification that I think the added depth of flavor from a grain-innoculated sour ferment is likely coming from other microbes other than solely lactobacillus. The amount of CO2 production that I have gotten using a handful of Pils malt as my innoculant is a lot greater than I'd expect from a pure lacto ferment. That said, that's not a particular concern if you're going to boil your sour wort anyways.

Beer Recipes / Re: session IPA
« on: December 02, 2016, 09:22:53 AM »
Here's a stab, using an all-European theme:

1.042 OG from the following malt bill:

60% - Maris Otter
30 % - Pilsner Malt
7% - Torrified Wheat
3% - CaraHell

40 IBU at 60 minutes from Hop Shot (if you can get it), or Magnum

1 oz/gallon of Mandarina Bavaria
0.5 oz/gallon of Kazbek
0.5 oz/gallon of Styrian Golding

Dry Hops:
Same hops as above with 1/2 the hopping rate

Ferment with WY1007 or equivalent

If you're not limited to European ingredients and have access to them, then I'd use 3 of the following hops:
Vic Secret
Nelson Sauvin

I typically follow the hopping strategy above - a total of 2 oz/gallon in the whirlpool, and 1 oz/gallon of dry hops (if I dry hop). I pick one hop to play the lead note and use two others to support it and add complexity.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1968 stops early?
« on: December 02, 2016, 08:53:32 AM »
Wow, thanks for the quick replies everyone!  I'll try rousting the yeast and bumping the ambient temp a bit (I do not have fermenter temp control yet).

Also, I usually do rack to secondary after a week, and stay in secondary for another week or more, but when I did this with my first 1968 batch, and then bottled on 8oz DME, I ended up with a very flat beer after even 2 weeks in bottles.  I'm thinking the high flocculation resulted in no (or very few) yeast in the final bottled beer, so nothing to eat my priming sugar, and thus no carbonation.  How do you all manage priming for bottling with 1968?  Or are most folks who use 1968 doing force-carbed kegging?
I force-carb now, but I never ran into any issues with 1968 back when I was still bottle-conditioning everything. But 2 weeks is the bare minimum for acceptable carbonation when bottle-priming under even the best conditions. I usually allow 3-4 weeks before I decide that there was an issue.

It could be that since 1968 is so flocculant that there is less yeast in suspension that makes it through to bottling, which in turn may take longer to finish carbonating. but that's just a WAG on my part.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 1968 stops early?
« on: December 02, 2016, 08:26:16 AM »
1968 drops like concrete once it starts to floc, so it does require some extra care for the best results. I use it all the time and typically get in the mid-70's for % attenuation.

I typically swirl my fermenters daily, and I ramp up my fermentation temp as early as the 2nd or 3rd day after pitching. I also tend to pitch 002/1968 on the low side compared to most ales. Big pitches seem to work fast initially, but once it starts to form big flocs I think the yeast tends to drop too quick. And since the flocs are like chunks of clay, you can't reliably swirl it back into suspension to wake it back up. This can give you low attenuation and diacetyl on occasion.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Green beer bottles?
« on: December 02, 2016, 08:05:50 AM »
I was excited to see Saison Dupont in a BROWN bottle recently.
Awesome! I will have to keep my eyes open for these.

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