I have no personal experience, but all my local homebrew shops use BSG:
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+2 - do not add salts to extract recipes. You have no idea what the mineral content of the original brewer's water was. You may even be better off using RO or distilled water.
I tried Neem Oil with moderate success, but it needs frequent reapplication (especially after rain). Eventually my J-Beetle problem resolved itself after I started treating treating my lawn for grubs (non-organically).Have you tried milky spore?
I am going to apply the beneficial nematode Heterorhabditis bacteriophora in my hop yard, gardens, and around the ornamental trees that Japanese beetles love in September. Heterorhabditis bacteriophora is a hunter-killer nematode that is supposed to be effective against Japanese beetle larvae. I used beneficial nematodes to take care of a massive flea infestation that I had in my yard at my prior residence. The nematodes made quick work of the flea larvae in the soil, putting an end to the life cycle. The problem never came back.
With that said, Japanese beetles are not fleas. The Japanese beetles in my area have been subjected to pesticides long enough that they are difficult to kill. PyGanic is supposed to be an effective contact killer. However, it appears to be ineffective against the Japanese beetles in my area. I personally witnessed Japanese beetles survive for hours after direct application. I do not know if PyGanic eventually killed the beetles because the leaf on which they were feeding was skeletonized by the next morning.
The main problem I am up against is that I live in a semi-rural area where the farmers practice no-till farming. No-till farming is good for the soil and Japanese beetles.
I wonder if they didn't use WY2124, which is used by many breweries at warmer temps to create more ale like flavors.I find that it is used by many breweries at warmer temperatures to try to pass something off as a lager even though it just tastes like poor fermentation.
For most calculations that makes the most sense, but when you're talking about concentrating mineral additions percentage is a good way to look at it. If your boiloff on a small batch is 25% greater than on your usual batch size, than any preboil flavor additions (such as minerals added to the mash) will likely need to be reduced by the same factor.Yeah, I get about a 43% evaporation on 1 gallon batches. 1.75-1 over 90 min.
Don't measure boiloff in %. You will not get twice as much in a 10 gal. batch as you do in a 5. Measure boiloff in gal./hr.
I brew in the house so it's bare feet for me. Plus, how else am I supposed to know if I forgot to close the ball valve on my mash tun again?
I brewed my first batch with this strain (an ordinary bitter - Muntons MO, Thomas Fawcett C45, Boadicea Hops) and good lord everyone wasn't kidding about how flocculant it is! I'm 10 days from brewery and just pulled a sample and it was clearer than any beer I've made even after a cold crash.
I did detect a bit of diacytel, while it doesn't seem out of place for this strain/style I was hoping to tone it down a bit. Should I just rouse the fermentor and bump the temp to 70f or something for a few days? I fermented at 65f.
Yea, the vial would probably be fine with the gravity. I figured I'd error on the side of a starter since beer smith suggested more cells and I hear that a heartier pitch with 002 should reduce esters and diacytelEsters, maybe. I'd still bump up the temps and rouse the yeast at the end to insure against diacetyl. When 002 is done it drops like a stone. If there's diacetyl left at that point it may stick around.
I'm pretty sure. I was trying to add body to a session beer, and added about 5% flaked barley to my existing recipe. I never got that flavor in any previous versions of the beer, just the one with flaked barley.I tried flaked barley in an APA and will never use it again in a pale beer. I get a raw, grassy flavor from it that I just didn't care for.
Are you sure that came from the flaked barley? Ive used it on a number of accassions and never had that flavor.