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Messages - erockrph

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1006
Applying a boil to something for 30 minutes or 90 should yield different results whether cooking or brewing. I am not saying that DMS will be the difference, but hop utilization and isomerization should at least be different between them, no? The results showed slight differences in color, I simply think more differences would have been seen.
In this experiment, the hops were boiled for the same length of time in each, so no significant differences should be noted.

Unless I'm specifically looking for a character that is imparted through a lengthy boil (concentrating a barleywine wort, for example), I'm going to start using shortened boils and see what happens.

1007
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Most likely culprit of a slight banana ester?
« on: September 14, 2015, 08:35:13 AM »
Do you have any experience with this strain? Is this something new that you haven't picked up before? I'm grasping at straws here, but I get a pear ester from it that could possibly be taken for banana.

Or maybe it could be a combination of diacetyl with other esters combining to give that impression? Warm ferm temps plus an oversized pitch seem like a recipe for a D-bomb with 002 unless you rouse the yeast frequently and bump the temperature at the end of fermentation.

I doubt you underoxygenated your wort for that beer, if anything you could have overshot depending on how much headspace your fermenter has.

1008
Thanks, Marshall! You just got me 30-60 minutes of my life back on every AG brewday.  ;D

1009
Eric has a 15 min all extract recipe he uses for hop experiments. You can look back and see many of his reviews from the past few years.
Here is my post where I go into the most detail about my procedure:
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=13485.0

I also went into a bit more specifics on my blog as well:
http://hopwhisperer.blogspot.com/2013/12/single-hop-beers-part-1.html
http://hopwhisperer.blogspot.com/2013/12/single-hop-beers-part-2.html

I've cranked out as many as 8 batches in the time span of a typical all-grain brewday. You can steep some crystal instead of the Munich LME if you'd like, but I find things work more quickly with the LME.

1010
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Step mashing with declining temps
« on: September 14, 2015, 07:37:32 AM »
At the temps you're talking about- you're going to get a thin bodied beer like a Pilsner or pale ale.

There is a huge difference between 150, 152, 154, 156, and 158 mash temps.  The most noticeable will be the body of the beer.  The second will be efficiency.  I've been to way too many breweries where their stouts have the same body as their pale ales.  The reason is they "set it and forget it" and the mash temp drops over the course of the mash.

You'll never really get a great porter or stout unless you can hold the mash temp +\- 1 degree. 

If this is a problem- you're better off starting on the high side and dropping into your target temp than you are trying to raise the temp to target. 

Higher temps conversion rates are quicker but less efficient.   If you're temps drops below the body style you're shooting for you'll also get higher alcohol but a drier beer.

For medium bodied or rich bodied beers raising the temp to mash out is critical to "lock in" the conversion versus continuing conversion during mash out as the temp drops- reducing body, increasing ABV, reducing residual sweetness.
This doesn't match my experience very well at all. There is a huge difference between 147F and 162F mash temps, but I haven't seen a significant difference in my end results with mash temps ranging between 150F and 155F or so. Lagunitas mashes their IPA at 160F, but it doesn't have a body like a stout. Malt today is so hot with enzymatic content that mash temperature just doesn't have a huge effect unless you're at relative extremes in the range.

I completely disagree that you need to be able to hold your mash temp to within a degree to produce a good porter or stout. Most homebrewers don't have that capability, but still produce excellent full-bodied beers. Like any beer, you may have to adapt a recipe to fit your system in order to really dial it in. But the ability to do so is well within the reach of a knowledgeable homebrewer.

1011
Beer Recipes / Re: Cider
« on: September 13, 2015, 09:06:59 PM »
There are many ways to skin that cat. I like T-58 and S-04 for ale yeasts if I'm bottle conditioning. They'll go dry, but not bone dry. I get a lot of sulfur with no nutrients, the fermentation takes a bit longer, and the beer finishes a bit sweeter.

My current SOP is to use 71B wine yeast, along with nutrient, pectic enzyme and apple juice concentrate to boost the OG to the 1.060-1.070 range. It finishes quick, then I sulfite/sorbate and backsweeten with fresh juice. This dilutes it back down to 6% or so, adds some apple flavor back, and sweetens it to my liking. Then I keg and carbonate.

1012
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: the flavor of fruit in fruit beer
« on: September 13, 2015, 08:54:00 PM »
Nobody has mentioned tannin levels in a discussion about fruit?
I think they certainly help add some balance, especially in a sour. But have you noticed a correlation between tannins and flavor in beer?

1013
Other Fermentables / Re: Metabisulfite & Sorbate
« on: September 13, 2015, 11:45:21 AM »
I am planning on splitting the batch into two smaller batches.  One will get raspberries and the other will get vanilla and oranges.  So if I'm hearing everyone's feedback right, I'll  should use both since there are natural residual sugars in the fruits. Otherwise I run the risk of fermentation starting again. But I shouldn't add them for a while since the yeast may lower my pts still.
You are correct, although you could just let the yeast go through a secondary fermentation once you add the fruit and not have to worry about additives. It depends on how much of a "fresh fruit" flavor you want in the end. I typically add fruit in primary, but I will backsweeten with juice or concentrate in my lower gravity meads on occasion. In those cases I do sulfite/sorbate.

1014
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: officially on pause
« on: September 13, 2015, 11:37:30 AM »
I envy you guys.  I've been so busy writing about beer that I haven't had time to brew for the last few months!  Finally made an IPA about 2 weeks ago that's getting kegged today.  But it's a far cry from my usual 3 kegs on tap and another 3 in waiting.
I'm in this camp, myself. My wife had another surgery this summer so not much of a chance to brew in a while for me. The only beers I've brewed are because I absolutely had to to in order to meet a deadline, a lager for tailgating in a couple of weeks and an IPA I just mashed in on for a competition.

Thankfully, my wife's recovery went well and she is back to work. My son started kindergarten last week as well. Hopefully that forecasts to a chance to make up some brewing this fall. I have a bunch of varietal UK malts coming in and a backlog of new hop varieties to try. Hopefully I can get a bunch of test batches going starting in the next month or so.

1015
All Grain Brewing / Re: Golden ratio beer
« on: September 12, 2015, 08:30:34 PM »
Quote from: ynotbrusum

for hops - same ratio of Hallertauer to Tettnanger?
Yep. I think beers based on math should be German ;)
Agreed. Sort of reminds me of this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqAdxN1IWQQ

1016
Other Fermentables / Re: Metabisulfite & Sorbate
« on: September 12, 2015, 08:02:37 PM »
For big meads like this you generally don't need either. Once the yeast stops, it isn't going to start up again. It will chug along until it reaches an ABV high enough to inhibit further activity.

I would recommend to be patient and let it sit in primary for a little longer. Big meads tend to slow down quite a bit near the end, and you may still see another few gravity points come off in the next couple of weeks. If you confirm that you've hit your FG in another week or more, then you should be safe to start racking.

1017
Events / Re: Swap-toberfest '15
« on: September 12, 2015, 10:38:49 AM »
Is there any specific deadline? I have a couple of beers planned that probably won't be ready until mid-October if I bottle-condition them.

Side note - I almost missed this thread completely. I don't visit the Events subforum all too often.

1018
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: the flavor of fruit in fruit beer
« on: September 12, 2015, 07:34:15 AM »
I understand that, but is there, say such a difference in acid content between raspberries and strawberries? Raspberries work, strawberries don't.

According to this chart, they are pretty much identical in the amount of acid and sugar content, so it can't be just that simple.

http://hbd.org/brewery/library/SugAcid.html

I think with some fruits ripeness makes a much bigger difference than others. I will only buy strawberries at the store in June, and only US-grown ones. With raspberries, I can't think I've ever had any that were seriously lacking flavor the way out-of-season strawberries can be. I don't know how that translates to beer, but I suspect that it comes into play somehow.

Edit - added link to the chart, oops  :o

1019
The whole brewhouse efficiency conversation never made sense to me. If all I have to do is pour the liquid that is left behind in the kettle along with the break and hops into the fermenter to get a huge jump in brewhouse efficiency that seems crazy.  Why would I do that?  I want to leave that stuff behind therefor my efficiency suffers.  In other words, crap in the fermenter is suppose to make me feel better because I got better efficiency.
Agreed. My preboil efficiency is the only number I actually concern myself with.

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