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Messages - erockrph

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1006
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Single Hop IPAs
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:29:36 PM »
Nothing wrong with a good Caucasian, Frank :)

I'm not a big fan of single-hopped IPA's - I prefer a little more complexity. Having said that, I'd put Meridian, Galaxy and Enigma on my short list if I had to brew one. Nelson Sauvin might be a good choice as well. Nelson might be something to look in to if you were thinking of doing a single-hopped Cascade IPA. I get a lot of the same grapefruit character from Nelson that I do from Cascade, but it is more potent and also has a nice vinous character that adds some depth.

1007
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Getting The Hoppy Into The IPA
« on: January 22, 2016, 06:24:38 PM »
Whirlpool hops are definitely where the best bang for the buck is on flavor. For non-IPA's, I follow Jon's method - target all my IBU's from a 60-minute addition, then whirlpool at 170F for flavor and some aroma. This lets you treat bittering and flavor/aroma additions separately without worrying about how many IBU's you might be getting from your late hops.

For IPA's, the actual IBU's don't really matter. The perception of bitterness maxes out in the 60-80 IBU range, and no matter what the calculators are telling you, you won't get much more than 100 measured IBU's in a beer due to solubility, as well as how much the yeast pulls out of solution. In other words, there's no reason to worry about overshooting your IBU's because there's not going to be a noticeable difference between a 70 IBU beer and one that calculates to 500 IBU. I sent an IPA in that calculated to 480 IBU and it came back at 98 IBU measured from the lab.

So, for IPA's, I start my whirlpool right at flameout and don't start to chill for 60-90 minutes. I'll get more than enough IBU's at that temp, and I do think I am getting more flavor out of the long, hot whirlpool than I do at 170F. But the 4oz/gallon hopping rate probably has something to do with that as well  ;D

1008
The Pub / Re: Chocolate stash
« on: January 22, 2016, 11:04:27 AM »
I am chocolate ignorant. But, I would like to impress my wife. What do you recommend?
There's a pretty broad range out there. I pretty much stick to plain dark chocolate bars, so I don't have a lot of recommendations for milk chocolate, or bars that have fillings or additives. To me, those are more of a snack rather than something to savor.

Most of the bars in that picture are favorites of mine. The Amedei Chuao is by far the best chocolate I've ever had. It has a great acidity that brings out all sorts of fruit notes, with earthy, nutty and coffee notes to back it up. It's about $15 a bar, but worth every penny if you're a connoisseur. If you're into bitter and you want to get adventurous, Domori's "Il 100%" is my favorite 100% cacao bar. It is amazing the complexity you can get off of pure cacao.

Waialua Estate is another one of my favorites. It is 100% American from bean-to-bar: the cacao is grown on Dole's plantation in Hawaii and the bar is made by Guittard. The volcanic soil terroir makes for a distinct flavor profile. The Pralus Cuba may not be the most complex dark chocolate, but it is addictively snackable. It is made from Trinitario beans rather than Criollo. There are three types of cacao beans - Criollo is the top quality, akin to Arabica coffee beans, Forastero is for mass-production and equivalent to Robusto coffee, and Trinitario is a hybrid between the two both literally and in quality of flavor. Pralus tends to go heavier on the roast than other chocolate makers, and that brings out nice peanut butter and espresso flavors in the Trinitario beans, and that makes for a poundable dark chocolate. It also, quite fittingly, makes an excellent pairing with Cuban-style coffee.

If you're not sure how dark you like it, Lindt does a series of chocolate bars starting at 50% and going all the way up to 99%. It makes for a nice flight, especially if you're just starting to get into chocolate. Once you get into it, several manufacturers have single-origin bars so you can get a feel for what chocolate from different countries and regions taste like. I believe Pralus sells some as a sampler of tasting squares so you could do a bunch side-by-side without breaking the bank. The best cacao primarily comes from Venezuela, and the region of Chuao produces the best-of-the-best. I'm also partial to Madagascan chocolate - it has a bright acidity that often comes off as lemonade and/or fresh red raspberries.

You may have to order online to find most of these, but you'll rarely go wrong with these brands:
Domori
Amedei
Pralus
Michel Cluizel
Bonnat
Patric
Amano

Scharffen Berger, Lake Champlain and Lindt may be easier to find and aren't half bad for starters. The Scharffen Berger 70% and the Lake Champlain Sao Thome are excellent starters.

1009
Ingredients / Re: Cacao Nibs - taking suggestions
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:23:32 AM »
Malty English brown could be a nice vehicle for it.
I like that idea. I've got a brown ale planned. Another thought is that I was planning to use the cake from the brown ale to grow up a couple of generations then finish with an English Barleywine. A nice rich barleywine might be pretty nice aged over some nibs.

1010
Kegging and Bottling / Re: ultrafast forced carbonation
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:11:56 AM »
Do you have access to a paint shaker? If the beer is ice-cold and you have the keg upside down (or hook up the gas to the out post so it bubbles up through the beer), then you might be able to do it at safe PSI's (or kPa if that's your thing over there) under constant agitation. But that's just a guess. No clue what pressure you would need to be on target at half an hour.

1011
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Spring brews
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:06:40 AM »
I usually map out my brew days once I get my work schedule (I typically get it in 3-month blocks). Right now it's hard to tell because I still don't have the rest of my winter schedule. I have such a backlog right now that I'm not sure how much is going to overflow into my spring brewing:

Winter brews still on the docket:
Spring Swap Challenge beer (extract Helles w/S-189)
Small batches of single base malt pale ales using MO, GP, Pearl, Optic and Halcyon
Series of brews using WY1768 (Brown Ale > ESB > English BW)

Once those are done my next ones will depend on how late into spring I am when I'm ready to start:
WLP570 - Hoppy pale ale > Duvel clone
WY3711 Table saison - possibly fruited or with hibiscus

1012
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Buying brews at chain restaurants?
« on: January 22, 2016, 08:45:34 AM »
For me, it depends on the situation and my mood. If I feel like a beer, then I'll have one. If I'm out at a chain restaurant, I'm not generally thinking about the cost. More often than not, if I'm just out with my family I'm ordering a diet soda or lemonade. It's rare that a chain restaurant would have a beer that I'm interested in, but if I have a craving for something on the menu I wouldn't think twice about ordering one.

1013
The Pub / Chocolate stash
« on: January 21, 2016, 06:35:13 PM »
Not only does the cold weather mean liquid yeast is safe(r) to buy online, but so is chocolate. I'm a huge fan of dark chocolate and I got my semiannual binge order in from Chocosphere today. Great site to order high quality chocolate from in the US.


1014
Ingredients / Cacao Nibs - taking suggestions
« on: January 21, 2016, 06:29:53 PM »
I just got my stash in from Chocosphere in the mail. I figured I'd add some nibs to my order since they had some in stock from one of my favorite chocolate makers (Domori). The thing is, for as much of a chocoholic as I am, I've never brewed with cacao nibs. I now have half a kilo of high quality stuff and I'm taking suggestions for what to do with them.

I'm looking for ideas that will really let the chocolate character show through, so I'm leaning away from the usual Porter/Stout where there are other roast malts in the mix. Some will probably end up in a small batch of mead. Any beer suggestions?

1015
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Why does my final beer taste so yeasty
« on: January 21, 2016, 04:43:41 PM »
But seriously, get the bottles cold. It could be over carbonation, but it could also be partly from the yeast in suspension creating a lot of nucleation points for CO2 bubbles to form. Chilling the beers will help the yeast settle out and will also slow the carbonation process significantly.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


1016
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Why does my final beer taste so yeasty
« on: January 21, 2016, 04:39:42 PM »
U haz yeast infection

150mg Diflucan Po x1 stat
No doubt. Might even need a round of Caspofungin IV...

1017
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimental Brewing podcast Episode 6
« on: January 21, 2016, 04:20:17 PM »
It's a shame Roger was so wrecked, by the time you got to some interesting brewing questions he was having a hard time stringing together coherent sentences. He sounds a lot like Sterling Archer when he's drunk. Still a great interview, despite the missed bleeps (there was a whole string of them right after the "what's your favorite cuss word" part).

On the 001 vs 1056 experiment, I'm only mildly surprised. Obviously, the experiment has to be set up simply to get more participation and to make sure that everyone was testing the same thing. Having said that, I wonder how much of the difference is due to production and packaging differences vs actual genetic drift. If you ever run a "master class" experiment, it would be interesting to see if there is still as much of a difference after 3-4 generations, or if the two strains become more similar.

Great work as always, guys!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


1018
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Racking before end of fermentation
« on: January 20, 2016, 09:43:06 PM »
Instead of "secondary fermenter", it should be called "bright tank", because that's all that it is. If you feel the need to use a bright tank (i.e., to dry hop off of the yeast cake), then have at it. But for the vast majority of brews, you can safely go right from the fermenter to packaging without the added step.

1019
All Grain Brewing / Re: 1 gallon batches
« on: January 20, 2016, 09:16:50 PM »
I suggest you purchase a five gallon kettle. They can be had at any of the big retailers for about $39. It will allow you to do a 1.5-2 gallon mash and full boil--or, you can do a five gallon batch, partial boil. It is a great value, and you won't regret it.

Also, I think that the starting point for BIAB efficiency is more like 65%.

Common misconception, but typical is around ~72% mash efficiency.  Ranges up to 80% depending on proxess, recipe, equipment etc.
I'm at 82-84% preboil efficiency. Depends on how much bag squeezin' you're up for.

1020
All Things Food / Re: Chili
« on: January 19, 2016, 06:24:27 PM »
My secret ingredient in chili is the meat marinade. I typically use thin sliced stir-fry sized steak. It gets an overnight soak in the juice from a jar or two of pepperoncini peppers (the peppers themselves go with some buffalo wings), along with a decent handful of cracked black peppercorns. Between the acidic marinade and the long stewing, the meat falls apart to shreds. I like that texture a lot better than ground beef for my chili.

The actual recipe changes each time, but chili powder and Serranos are always key players. Need to whip up a batch soon, myself.

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