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Messages - erockrph

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1021
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Roeselare Blend
« on: August 15, 2014, 06:32:46 AM »
Served a near 100% lacto BW at the last homebrew meeting without syrup. Too sour for some, not too sour for others.  I would monitor the lacto ferment for the Flemish Red so it doesn't go off the charts.

I have yet to have a Flanders Red that was too sour. Too acetic, yes; too sour, no.

1022
Ingredients / Re: Flaked oats
« on: August 15, 2014, 05:09:55 AM »
According to how to brew, flaked oats are the same thing as instant oatmeal oats.

http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-2.html

+1.  I've used Quaker in oatmeal stout many times.
+2 - Bob's Red Mill Instant Rolled Oats for me

1023
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Reusing yeast cake, pros and cons
« on: August 15, 2014, 04:59:15 AM »
Thanks everybody. Never had any issues reusing a yeast cake, but always done styles that are very forgiving when it comes to off-flavors. Looking for a nice clean lager flavor on this one.

To be honest, I do this for lagers more than ales. If your sanitation is good, then I don't think there's much to worry about.

1024
Actually, less attenuative strains like 1968 often (not always) drop clearer quicker than more attenuative, powdery ones that stay in solution until they finally finish their job and settle out. IMO the very easiest way to avoid yeast absorbing more of your hop character is to remove as much of the yeast from your beer as possible before dry hopping. As in :   1/   Leaving the beer in primary for say 2 - 3 weeks, rack to secondary or keg and dry hop , or
2/   After fermentation is verified done, cold crash the yeast ~ 32F for a few days, then rack to secondary or keg and dry hop.
Either way, you've effectively separated your beer from a lot of yeast. I've done this with 1056, not a terribly flocculent strain, many,many times.

I'll be dry hopping this beer in a few days and I had a question about my racking to secondary. Does it matter if you rack at low temps as opposed to fermentation temps? Are you more likely to suffer oxydation when the beer is cold vs ferm temp? or is it a matter of indifference.
Since oxygen is more soluble at lower temperatures, I'm sure there's some hypothetical, miniscule increase in risk at colder temperatures. I think in reality that the difference is likely so small that you would have no need for concern. Proper technique (i.e., minimizing aeration, CO2 flushing if possible, etc) will have much more impact on the final product.

1025
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing calendar
« on: August 14, 2014, 09:37:12 PM »
The Calendar has begun... needs more beers though. Thanks for the inspiration so far.I will try and remember to share the rough draft. Still dont know what to brew in early sept to have for fall/ early winter though... I can keg for fast drinking if needed. anybody?

Oatmeal stout? That's a favorite early winter style for me.

1026
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: August 14, 2014, 01:00:30 PM »
I'm kinda worried about the description saying Belgian styles and IIPA.  Does that mean Belgian beers with a "Belgian profile" or IIPA that tastes Belgian?  They seem to be more concerned with alcohol tolerance than anything else.
My thought exactly. I also thought maybe it is something similar to the Rochefort strain which is lower on esters and phenols compared to other Belgian strains.

Rochefort?  As in WY1762?    Never struck me as being particularly low on esters.

I get a lot of plummy esters in big Belgian Darks, but I don't get anywhere near as much banana as other Belgian strains with WY1762. Wyeast does bill it as a relatively clean Belgian strain, and I can say it makes a great English BW.

1027
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Times
« on: August 14, 2014, 10:39:51 AM »
+1 to all of the above.  Hotter = faster = more unfermentable sugars = greater body.

You can safely pick one favorite mash time and temperature and use it for 90% of your beers.  I mash 90% of mine at 148-150 F for 45 minutes.  Occasionally I'll mash a little longer if I want it super dry.  Otherwise, that's what I like.  You might prefer 155 F.

In any case, I will always argue that 45 minutes is good enough.  Or even 40.  No need to mash any longer than that unless you want the beer super dry.

On your system, and at the temperatures you use that may be good enough. Personally, my efficiencies jumped considerably, and became much more consistant, when I went to a 75-minute mash. FWIW, this is for no-sparge/BIAB at 153F.

1028
Ingredients / Re: Red X malt (Best Malz)
« on: August 14, 2014, 10:23:18 AM »
Yeah I saw it. Thanks. I am just confused. Do most malts behave in that way? I guess I will have to go back and read the thread in more detail.

Not that I am aware of. This was something that Best specifically developed to produce a red color when used in the correct quantities.

1029
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash Times
« on: August 14, 2014, 10:14:42 AM »
A) 148F mash temp typically results in a thinner body. I use 153 for most normal brews, and 160-162 for a fuller body

B) The conversion reactions happen more rapidly at higher temperatures. That's probably where the different amount of time comes from. Frankly, most brewers I know use a standard mash time for almost all their beers and simply adjust the mash temp. The only exception (for me, at least) is low-temperature mashes (in the 145-148 temperature range). I'll usually mash about 30 minutes longer since the reactions run a little slower and I want to get full conversion in those brews.

1030
The Pub / Re: Baseball 2014
« on: August 13, 2014, 08:27:20 PM »
A little warning: If you're not a New England homer, you won't be able to stand listening to a Red Sox broadcast.

I find that to be true of most team's announcers who are not your own. Although, I grew up in Chicagoland, I could never stand listening to Hawk Harrelson. My grandfather was a huge White Sox fan, so I listened to a lot of his games. Just couldn't ever become a fan.

However, there are some great ones who are always a treat. Unfortunately a lot of them are passing away. I listen to Vin Scully as often as possible these days.

I'll always take the local guys over the national ones (especially Tim McCarver - so glad he retired). With creative use of the DVR, you can often sync the TV broadcast with an online stream of one of the teams' local radio stations.

1031
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Jolly Pumpkin Oro de Calabaza
« on: August 13, 2014, 08:22:03 PM »
Thanks for this post and your tasting notes Eric. I had Oro de Calabaza once about 5 or so years ago, not having any idea what I was gettting, or that sour beers even existed. I immediately hated it, but now I do enjoy some sour beers. I will have to give this a try again sometime soon.

This certainly wasn't tart like a full-on sour. I've brewed Saisons with WY3711 and no souring bugs that were pretty close to the Oro in acidity level. The Brett is the big player here. If you like Orval you should enjoy this beer quite a bit.

1032
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brewing calendar
« on: August 13, 2014, 08:14:11 PM »
Northern Brewer has a Google Calendar set up for this on their site somewhere. It has things like Dry Stouts for St Patty's day, Lawnmower beers for the summer, and so on.

Personally, I end up getting an idea in my head whenever and if it's still in my head when I'm getting ready for my next brewday, then I brew it. I don't generally time things out. A lot of time I'll decide on a yeast strain I want to brew with and do 2-3 beers in succession so I can keep reusing the cake. The only thing I always brew at a specific time is cider/cyser and other melomels when the fruit is in season. I didn't get to brew a Saison this summer, but if I get to it in the winter it won't really bother me.

1033
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Reusing yeast cake, pros and cons
« on: August 13, 2014, 08:06:43 PM »
I do it all the time rather than make starters for big beers. I rack to a keg or bottling bucket, then I dump my new wort right on the cake and oxygenate. I'm sure it's overpitching, but I'm generally doing this for styles that can use as much healthy yeast as possible.

1034
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: My reason for signing up here...
« on: August 13, 2014, 08:00:10 PM »
You need software! 

If the OP reads a brewing book first, he will not need software to perform basic brewing calculations. The calculations encountered in recipe formation do not require a great deal of mathematical maturity.  Brew house calculations are middle school level at best.  I have formulated several hundred batches of beer without the aid of brewing software. 

I don't disagree with you, but software is cheap (and there is even some free stuff) especially when you compare it to other parts of the brewery and my time.  I can't imagine not using software.

I can imagine not using software. It starts with me hunting for a pad and pen, and ends with me going "eff this" and logging onto my computer/tablet/cell phone about two minutes later. Even if there was no brewing software, I'd just build an Excel spreadsheet that does everything I want. That's just how I work. I have a tendency to spend an hour building and tweaking a spreadsheet to solve a 20 minute problem, knowing the next time it will only take me 30 seconds.

I appreciate and respect the skill of writing a recipe and calculating by hand, but I'm kind of glad I started brewing at a time where that isn't necessary.

1035
Ingredients / Re: Vampire Proof Beer
« on: August 13, 2014, 11:37:12 AM »
Box fan and screens is good. I'm not too sure, but if it's really dry the hops will dry pretty quickly. I'd try a small amount and see if they smell like garlic at the end. My guess is it would take a while to absorb the aroma, but I might be wrong.
Or maybe my garlic will smell like hops!
This is more likely. Everything in my freezer smells like hops...

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