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Messages - erockrph

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1051
Beer Recipes / Re: double IPA
« on: October 14, 2014, 07:07:35 AM »
for sure going for a high sulfate water. using the bru'n water pale ale profile.

I do have more hops. I've got

(converted to ounces for the metrically disinclined)
6 oz centennial
6 oz citra
5 oz cascade

I've got some willamette and maybe a bit of magnum, and a few other odds and ends as well but I don't want to go crazy.

I'll up the whirlpool amounts. and the whirlpool time.
I think your blend is pretty good. I wouldn't mess around with other hop varieties - just up the amounts. The only exception is if you have something dank/piny like Chinook/Columbus/Simcoe. The varieties you're using are pretty citrus-forward, and Cascade can be pretty floral sometimes. A touch of pine on the palate might be a good counterpoint.

1052
All Grain Brewing / Re: Another BIAB thread
« on: October 14, 2014, 06:54:43 AM »
Also, you can go a lot finer on your milling with BIAB since you really don't need the filter bed to runoff the mash and sparge. 

Eric - are you getting those efficiency numbers with at the same mill gap as if you were going to do a normal mash/sparge?
I haven't done a normal mash with sparge since I got my mill, so I can't really say. My gap is set to whatever a green Dunlop Tortex guitar pick is. I think it's 0.039

I do squeeze my bag pretty thoroughly, so I'm sure that accounts for why my efficiency is so high. I spin my bag until it is taught, then put it in a colander and press down on it while wearing a silicon oven mitt. At some point I'll probably get a cheese press and will multitask it for bag squeezing as well.

1053
All Things Food / Re: dinner ideas
« on: October 13, 2014, 09:34:29 PM »
My go-to is Steak au Poivre. Flaming off the alcohol always looks cool (but can be scary as hell), and it's pretty simple.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/steak-au-poivre-recipe.html

Tangent - I've always meant to try this recipe with pork chops and cacao nibs instead of steak and peppercorn.

1054
Beer Recipes / Re: double IPA
« on: October 13, 2014, 09:29:08 PM »
Change the grams to ounces and you should be OK  ;D

Seriously, though... less than 3 ounces in the whirlpool isn't going to cut it for a 5-gallon batch of IIPA. Two ounces per gallon is a good start. Having double the amount of dry hops vs whirlpool additions is backwards. If you hit the whirlpool hard, then you don't need a truckload of dry hops.

Grist and mash look good. Make sure you're in the 200-300ppm range for sulfate (or higher if you prefer).

1055
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 13, 2014, 09:19:52 PM »
Grizzly Peak in Ann Arbor had a Pugsley system and would struggle with Diacetyl.

Hell, Shipyard still does...

1056
All Grain Brewing / Re: Another BIAB thread
« on: October 13, 2014, 09:14:15 PM »
If you're going the BIAB route for simplicity and time-saving purposes, then you might as well ditch the sparge while you're at it. If you use all your liquor in your mash then it's like doing your mash and sparge all in one step. The mash is thin and you don't end up needing an extra rinse to get all those sugars. I'm right at 80-82% preboil efficiency this way. I've gotten as high as 85% (on a barleywine, no less) before I started milling in my own grain for consistency sake.

As an added bonus, the extra thermal mass of having all your water in one pot will help hold your mash temps even better.

1057
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermenter Sans Bubbling
« on: October 13, 2014, 04:15:48 PM »
I just don't care anymore. if I can't find an airlock on brew day I slap a piece of sanitized foil over the hole and call it good. i can generally smell that the fermentation is moving along nicely anyway.
+1 - I have a couple of lids that I never got around to installing grommets on. I just lay them over the top without sealing and call it a day.

1058
The Pub / Re: Subliminal advertising
« on: October 13, 2014, 06:52:19 AM »
I'm all the time finding naked college chicks rolling around in my hops. Im glad a macro finally got some truth in advertising going
You keep them both in the freezer, too?

1059
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 12, 2014, 07:52:32 PM »


AFAIK, Wyeast and others are around 1.020 for yeast propagation.  I try to keep to the low end, 1.030ish.

+1

I chose 1.030 as a basic starter gravity because it strikes a balance between optimum cell growth conditions and and preparing the cells for the higher osmotic pressures encountered in fermentation. 

With that said, a 5% w/v solution (1.020 S.G.) is optimum for basic cell propagation because it provides enough nutrient for cell growth while placing low osmotic pressure on yeast cell walls.  It's also easier to dissolve oxygen in 1.020 wort than it is 1.040 wort.   The autoclaved 40ml first-level starters that I inoculate from slant are 1.020.

More good info. I've always used 1.020 starter wort for my first step when culturing bottle dregs because I thought it was a good idea. Glad to get some validation of that practice.

1060
Other Fermentables / Re: Cider Making 2014
« on: October 12, 2014, 11:39:55 AM »
I'm gonna be contrarian; deal with it.

I dry hop my cider and it is awesome.  YMMV.

I've been known to use some Belgian yeasts too, with good/gold results.  As for how overtly Belgian they are, that's not my point.  If I like the flavor profile, success.

This Thursday I am serving 6 of my ciders to a group of 60 women.  Off-dry New World, semi-sweet that is sort of between New World and French, peach with just a touch of ginger, tart cherry, dry-hopped sweet cider, and a ridiculous ~15% monster that started as a batch of Fall's Bounty Cyser from Schramm's book and is slowly being blended and nudged towards New England Cider.  With everything that has been blended together over the last couple years there's at least 10 yeasts represented there. 

I'm not expecting everyone to love everything, but I'm betting I go home empty.

cheers--
--Michael
I don't think it's contrarian. We all do what we like. All of this sounds awesome to me. Personally, I drank a 6-pack of Woodchuck every weekend for a couple of years in college. I'm pretty sure I'd enjoy every single cider that has been described on this thread so far, but if I'm making it for myself, then I'd prefer something slightly sweet and fizzy that I can put down by the pint.

1061
Beer Recipes / Baltic Porter
« on: October 12, 2014, 11:17:27 AM »
I've read that many of the original Baltic Porters were likely brewed using English Ale yeasts rather than lager yeasts as so many recipes seem to call for. Which is good for me because I don't want to move my kegs out of the keezer at the moment for a lager fermentation. I've had some Sinebrychoff recently, and while it wasn't the freshest sample it was still damn good. I'm pretty sure I can make something passable using an ale yeast. I don't pick up any

My thought is still to pitch at lager rates and ferment as low as I can manage in my basement (60ish ambient right now). Here's the recipe I was thinking of:

Title: Baltic Porter

Brew Method: BIAB
Style Name: Baltic Porter
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 2.8 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 3.6 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.068
Efficiency: 80% (brew house)

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.088
Final Gravity: 1.022
ABV (standard): 8.62%
IBU (tinseth): 32.29
SRM (morey): 30.06

FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - German - Munich Light (72.2%)
1.5 lb - German - Pilsner (18%)
0.5 lb - German - CaraMunich III (6%)
3 oz - American - Midnight Wheat Malt (2.3%)
2 oz - United Kingdom - Chocolate (1.5%)

HOPS:
0.7 oz - Ultra, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 28.27
0.5 oz - Ultra, Type: Pellet, AA: 7, Use: Boil for 5 min, IBU: 4.02

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 153 F, Time: 75 min, Amount: 16 qt

YEAST:
Wyeast - London ESB Ale 1968

1062
Other Fermentables / Re: Cider Making 2014
« on: October 12, 2014, 10:16:07 AM »
I'm gonna branch out with the cider making a little more next year. I've done split batches to experiment with different yeast strains ,and I've fortified ciders with raisins and/or sugar, more apfelwein style. But I do like the apple character and shorter aging requirements of the 5% abv ciders. But I also haven't made one with cranberries which I definitely want to try next year - one of the best ciders I ever tried was made with cranberries and had a great balance of apple and cranberries. I want to shoot for that.
But there's some 'out of the box' stuff going on with ciders now that has me interested - stuff like using Belgian strains (as in the above posted WLP530) as well as dry hopped ciders which would've never occurred to me. But I saw a couple dry hopped ciders reviewed a few issues back in Zymurgy. IIRC Gordon liked at least one of them. So I think I'm gonna split 10 gallons four ways next time and make a standard, a cranberry, a Belgian, and a dry hopped. Sounds fun.
I've done the dry-hopped thing. It was good, but the cider I used was unfortified and bone dry. I really think you want a little residual sweetness and a slightly bigger cider to compliment the dry hop character. I used Nelson, and I still think it's probably the perfect hop for this application. I'd use it again if I were to do another dry-hopped cider.

As far as Belgian strains go, I've used T-58 a few times, but I never got any real Belgian yeast character in the finished cider. Maybe you need to ferment warm for that, I was at 60ish. Right now I'm using 71B. I use it for cysers, so I figure it will be equally as good for ciders.

1063
Other Fermentables / Re: Cider Making 2014
« on: October 12, 2014, 08:48:13 AM »
I have my first batch finishing up primary as we speak. I'm trying something based on one of the presentations at this year's NHC. I have 1.5 gallons in primary with enough brown sugar to target an ABV of ~9%. Then I'm going to rack to a keg, sorbate/sulfate, then backsweeten with fresh cider & force carbonate. This should hopefully net me something in the ballpark 6-7% with a bit more apple character.

Batch 1 has some homegrown cranberries added to it. For batch 2 I'm planning on boiling down some cider and using that to boost the gravity of the primary batch instead of sugar, then backsweetening it with fresh cider again. I might add some cinnamon to that one (possibly added right to the cider reduction at flameout).

1064
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First go round
« on: October 12, 2014, 08:15:09 AM »
dls5492 I used safale us-05, I don't have a way to keep temp that low right now, so he said this would work, still fairly warm in my garage....stayed around 70ish.

erockph was an ale yeast... See above. The dry hopping I just wanted to try, see how it turned out, again this was my first time and it was an option on the instructions given in my kit. I took a gravity reading on my cook day but that was it. Why stop using secondary?whats the benefit?
Do you have a basement or someplace else that stays cooler than that? For most ales you're much better off if you can keep your ambient temps in the low 60's. 70's won't necessarily be bad, but cooler will be a noticeable improvement.

You really want to minimize oxygen exposure in your finished beer. Every time you transfer your beer you will pick up some oxygen, and increase your risk for oxidation. It's not a guarantee, but there's no real need for a secondary, so why risk it?

1065
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: First go round
« on: October 12, 2014, 07:05:25 AM »
Are you sure you brewed a lager? You don't typically dry-hop a dunkel.

How long did you primary before you transferred to secondary? You should be certain that fermentation has finished completely (gravity readings are the same on 2-3 consecutive days - no other method is reliable for determining that) before you rack to secondary or package your beer. If you take your beer off the yeast prematurely you run the risk of a stalled fermentation. You also risk leaving unwanted fermentation byproducts in the beer by taking it off the yeast before the yeast can clean it up.

Many homebrewers have stopped using a secondary for the majority of our beers. Some still use one for dry hopping, but others just add them directly to the primary fermenter at the tail end of fermentation.

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