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Messages - erockrph

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1111
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water
« on: July 27, 2014, 09:20:00 PM »
I am lucky enough to have a well with a very low mineral content. I input my well profile into Brewer's Friend and Brunwater, then adjust to fit the profile I'm looking for.

I use gypsum in my hoppy beers. I use a combo of gypsum, CaCl and kosher salt in my malty or balanced beers. Then I adjust my mash pH to my target using lactic acid or baking soda if needed.

I used to play around with my water a lot more to match a specific profile, but now I just K.I.S.S. 90% of the time. Just like in cooking, if you taste the salt(s) then you used too much. In the right amounts they just amplify certain flavors.

1112
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: New to HomeBrewing
« on: July 27, 2014, 11:42:35 AM »
One thing nobody mentions is that you can simply brew smaller batches and still be able to move to AG with most of your extract setup. Since I'm the only one drinking in my house, 3 gallon batches suit me just fine, and I can still brew on my stove and chill in my sink.

1113
Since the wort spent 14 days in primary and 18 days in secondary, I would have thought the temperature would have returned to ambient.  Your thoughts on that, please.

I used 98 grams sucrose in 4.5 gals and was looking for about 2.2 volumes carbonation.
Even though you're above ambient at the peak of fermentation, the yeast is still actively producing CO2. For priming sugar calculators you want the highest temp the beer reached after the yeast finished producing CO2, since any offgassing will not be replenished at that point. If you're not using temp control, then you're looking at a degree or two above ambient, tops. So ambient is good enough for those calculators, IMO.

1114
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Where to start?
« on: July 26, 2014, 07:36:34 PM »
If you decide to give it a go you came to the right place. You will get great advice here from many experts. Read "How to Brew", talk to your local homebrew shop, and jump on in. Ask any questions you have here, there are no dumb ones. Welcome!

1115
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bland IPA w/ lots of late hops?!?
« on: July 25, 2014, 06:46:08 PM »
Try a hop stand. It will add boatloads of hop flavor.

1116
One thing to note is that most Ribes varieties are susceptible to white pine blister rust, so they are restricted or banned in many areas. Even if you are able to find an online supplier that will ship them to you (hint, hint ;) ), use good judgement whether it would it would be the best idea for your local flora to introduce Ribes plants.
Most Ribes were wiped out in the 40's-50's by Departments of Agriculture who wanted to protect white pines from the rust, but regulations in many states are relaxing lately. White pine blister rust kills white pines, but requires nearby Ribes plants to complete it's life cycle. Therefore - no Ribes = no rust.

A few details that can help us be responsible Ribes owners.

Black and golden currants are the worst carriers, so if you can go with another currant or gooseberries, that's good. Black and golden currants are banned in Delaware while other Ribes sp. are allowed. The ban was recently revised according to recommendations from University of Delaware pathologists.

There are rust-resistant varieties of Ribes, but they are only resistant to SYMPTOMS. They can still carry the disease and transfer it to nearby white pines.

The disease does require some proximity to pines to transfer. So if you plant Ribes, plant them >500ft from white pines if you can manage it. If you have a grove of white pines on your property that you love and you can't plant far away - maybe you should just plant some blueberries or another small fruit.

Thanks, Jimmy! I wasn't aware of all the details, especially regarding the resistant varieties. I will definitely take a good look around before I decide to start propagating my currants to different areas of my property.

1117
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stuck Fermentation
« on: July 24, 2014, 05:19:51 PM »
Well I can always make a quick Oatmeal Stout and use the slurry from that. I was being impatient and trying to hurry along this batch (gotta learn from my mistake I suppose) next time I'll give it like 6-8 weeks in primary.

Bingo. For big beers, low & slow is the way to go. I guarantee you will like the results much better.

1118
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Stuck Fermentation
« on: July 24, 2014, 03:41:40 PM »
Hydrometer was floating and spun it a little to ensure a proper reading. I guess I can always get a little DME and some more yeast and make a fresh slurry to add to the carboy. It still has a syrup-y sweetness to it and I'm hoping to reach a final gravity of 1.010 - 1.027 Maybe stir it up a little and put in a warm room for a few days?
There is just no way S-04 is going to get an 1.124 extract barleywine down to 1.010. Even 1.027 isn't guaranteed, to be honest. I'd pitch an active slurry of yeast ASAP.

Racking off the yeast cake didn't help your cause. At homebrew scales autolysis isn't an issue even after a few months. You should never rack a beer to secondary until you've hit your FG.

1119
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 24, 2014, 11:12:48 AM »
I'm currently planning to mash at 151. When formulating my recipe, BeerSmith says I should hit 1.026 FG. Then again, you really can never nail the FG perfectly with bigger beers. Only about 9% specialty grains, so I'm thinking that will also help the attenuation.

Got a recipe? 1.026 sounds kinda high.  I would mash at 148 for 90-120 minutes

I don't think 1.026 is too high at all for a beer like that.
+1 - Good catch. A lot of good English Barleywines are sippin' beers. One of the best beer bars I've ever been to (no longer in business, unfortunately) served Thomas Hardy in a cordial glass. I was a little caught off guard at the time, but it worked and it definitely changed the way I think about certain beers.

1120
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 24, 2014, 09:54:14 AM »

Alt or not, call it what you want. But for any beer 2.5 lbs of crystal is too much per 10 gallon batch. You will already have cloying qualities in your BW due to left over unfermentable sugars. IME what you are creating here is going to be overly cloying, sweetish and not very drinkable. Consider cutting the crystal in half, at least.

I agree with you in regards to the Alt being too much crystal, which is why I was toying with doing a brown instead. Additionally, I've made great beers with 2.5# of crystal without being cloyingly sweet. In the grand scheme of the grist, I think it's still a small percentage. We each have our own preferences though.

I think you might run into attenuation issues with your BW with that much crystal. I like the Nut Brown partigyle idea. Maybe you want to reserve some of the Crystal to cap the mash for your 2nd gyle.

I know it's not what you're looking for but wlp670 American farmhouse blend makes a very nice barleywine. It took my 1.106 BW down to 1.016. It took about a year for the brett to finish up but worth the wait. It had a wonderful fruity flavor when young and it continues to develop in the bottle. Last one I tried tasted of dried figs and dates.

As far an non-traditional BW yeasts go, WY1762 works really well, too.

1121
Beer Recipes / Re: First Lager
« on: July 24, 2014, 08:42:30 AM »
+1 to just about everything said here (except add the appropriate umlauts :) )

The Märzen recipe in BCS is killer, and this is just about the perfect time of year to brew it. The lager talk from this year's NHC was great - wish I could have tried their beers.

1122
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Barleywine Yeast Suggestions
« on: July 24, 2014, 08:16:34 AM »
I'm currently planning to mash at 151. When formulating my recipe, BeerSmith says I should hit 1.026 FG. Then again, you really can never nail the FG perfectly with bigger beers. Only about 9% specialty grains, so I'm thinking that will also help the attenuation.

Got a recipe? 1.026 sounds kinda high.  I would mash at 148 for 90-120 minutes
He has not said what the OG was. A FG of 1.026 is in the range for a beer that starts at 1.100+. I brewed one 3 weeks back that had an OG of 1.115, and used Wyeast 1028. I might rack to a keg today, and will see what the FG is. Will report back when I know. It was a Thomas Hardy clone.

TH Clone? Recipe please :)

The main keys are oxygenation, fermentability of your wort, and a HUGE pitch of yeast. Honestly, 12.5% isn't terribly high for an ABV. I think most yeast strains can handle it, but some will be more attenuative than others.

My most recent barleywine was 100% MO with an OG of 1.142 and finished at 1.024, for an abv in the 15.5%-18% range (depending on which calculation you use). I used the WLP037 (Yorkshire Square), and pitched on about 2/3 of the cake from a 1.056ish brew.

1123
All Grain Brewing / Re: Brett / Black IPA mash pH?
« on: July 24, 2014, 07:17:41 AM »
I'm not really sure if 5.37 vs 5.4 for a mash pH will give you a noticeable difference. If you want to keep the harshness of the bitterness down, maybe consider skipping the boil hops and doing a hop stand/whirlpool only.

1124
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Gravity and Sediment
« on: July 22, 2014, 05:55:30 PM »
The hop particles are in suspension and not dissolved so they should have no effect on gravity.

1125
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: omega yeast
« on: July 22, 2014, 05:53:17 PM »
Liquid yeast without a starter can easily take 1-2 days before fermentation really takes off.

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