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Messages - erockrph

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1156
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: the flavor of fruit in fruit beer
« on: September 12, 2015, 07:34:15 AM »
I understand that, but is there, say such a difference in acid content between raspberries and strawberries? Raspberries work, strawberries don't.

According to this chart, they are pretty much identical in the amount of acid and sugar content, so it can't be just that simple.

http://hbd.org/brewery/library/SugAcid.html

I think with some fruits ripeness makes a much bigger difference than others. I will only buy strawberries at the store in June, and only US-grown ones. With raspberries, I can't think I've ever had any that were seriously lacking flavor the way out-of-season strawberries can be. I don't know how that translates to beer, but I suspect that it comes into play somehow.

Edit - added link to the chart, oops  :o

1157
The whole brewhouse efficiency conversation never made sense to me. If all I have to do is pour the liquid that is left behind in the kettle along with the break and hops into the fermenter to get a huge jump in brewhouse efficiency that seems crazy.  Why would I do that?  I want to leave that stuff behind therefor my efficiency suffers.  In other words, crap in the fermenter is suppose to make me feel better because I got better efficiency.
Agreed. My preboil efficiency is the only number I actually concern myself with.

1159
Ingredients / Re: Full Pint Malt experiences/reviews?
« on: September 11, 2015, 02:36:18 PM »
Salty popcorn?

My first thought too.
+2 - I was interested at first when I got the Farmhouse email, but this description moved it to the "no thanks" column.

1160
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: A Twist on Starter Technique
« on: September 11, 2015, 12:00:01 PM »
Glad to hear you're having good results with this. I have been using the "shaken, not stirred" method and pitching at high krausen with good results, but I'd still prefer not to have 20% or more of my lagers made from DME. I have considered doing something similar to what you've been doing and making my starter from some wort from the batch I'm brewing, then pitching it in the morning once the main batch has cooled to pitching temp.

1161
+2 to consistency. Being able to be consistent and knowing your system enough to predict OG pretty closely across low, standard, and high target gravities are all that matters.

I disagree somewhat.  I've been consistently at about 50% with BIAB and mashing in a cooler.  I'm not at all happy with 50% and something is clearly wrong or can be improved.

Last weekend, I was able to improve that to around 70% (which obviously is only one data point and I'll need to see if I can be consistent at 70%). 

The only change was a new thermometer and realizing my two dial thermometers are both reading 10 degrees high.

So, I will agree that consistent efficiency is good.  But consistently poor efficiency is maybe not so good.

Good points, Joe. Consistent low efficiency is probably a sign that there is something in your process that can be improved. And in that case, the points in Marshall's article are quite helpful. But at a certain point, I'd rather spend an extra buck on grain knowing that I'm pretty confident of hitting my OG within a point or two, rather than chase a few extra points of efficiency.

1162
Increasing liquor to grist ratio improved my efficiency considerably.  I also find no benefit to stirring the mash.
I haven't tested it under controlled conditions, but this is one of the reasons I attribute my high efficiency with BIAB without a sparge. My typical mash is in the 3 qt/lb range and I hit 82-84% efficiencies pretty solidly.

This also shows that you really need to know your system. For me, I needed to extend my mash times to 75 minutes to ensure I hit a consistent efficiency for all my brews. Others are done in 20 minutes. What works for batch sparge may not for BIAB or fly sparging.

Speaking of which, I think the most important thing is having a consistant efficiency rather than a high one. I'd be happy with a rock-solid 65% efficiency at the homebrew level rather than hitting 80% sometimes and 70% others.

1163
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Step mashing with declining temps
« on: September 11, 2015, 08:23:42 AM »
I'm curious about changing temperatures during the mash. If I start at 150, and 90 minutes later I'm at 146 or 147, how will the result differ than if I had kept it at a steady 150? As long as I'm in the beta range, beta conversion will go on, right?
For the most part, yes. Reaction rates are temperature dependant, so you may get full conversion a bit faster if you could hold it at 150 the whole time. But a 3-4 degree loss over 90 minutes isn't that big a deal.

Cool. But if I get up into the range of 156, that destroys the beta amylase, so that even if I drop the temp to 150, there will be no beta conversion, only alpha conversion, is that right?
Sort of. The enzymes don't denature all at once, but it is pretty much permanent for the ones that do. So you will probably see a decrease in beta amylase activity. It will depend on what temperature you hit, how long it was at that temp, and the initial enzyme content of the malt, to determine how much enzyme activity will remain as the temps fall.

1164
Equipment and Software / Re: Plastic Mash Tun Safety
« on: September 09, 2015, 05:55:57 PM »
Listen to the presentation from this year's NHC on Homebrew toxicology, as well as the podcasts on the same topic on Basic Brewing Radio.

Thank you, do you happen to have the link to the NHC presentation?
You need to be a member of the AHA to access it:

http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/resources/conference-seminars/

Go under 2015 and find the "Homebrew Toxicology" presentation

1165
The Pub / Re: Ten Drinks a Week
« on: September 09, 2015, 05:13:29 PM »
I used to drink a couple a night,  and i used to brew big beers.   In the last few years,  I've switched to weekends only  (unless there is an event or tasting ), and only a few a day on the weekends (again,  unless an event).  I also brew mostly smaller beers now.   Health,  age,  metabolism,  etc...  much like others state.
I'm with you on the smaller beers thing. About 2/3 of my brews are in the 1.050 or lower range. If I want to get sloppy it should be because I planned on it, and not simply because I mistakenly had a pint of homebrew on an empty stomach.

1166
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Step mashing with declining temps
« on: September 09, 2015, 05:07:50 PM »
I'm curious about changing temperatures during the mash. If I start at 150, and 90 minutes later I'm at 146 or 147, how will the result differ than if I had kept it at a steady 150? As long as I'm in the beta range, beta conversion will go on, right?
For the most part, yes. Reaction rates are temperature dependant, so you may get full conversion a bit faster if you could hold it at 150 the whole time. But a 3-4 degree loss over 90 minutes isn't that big a deal.

1167
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Berlinner Weiss Help
« on: September 09, 2015, 11:23:12 AM »
I would suggest not covering a typical Pilsner batch while it is in the chilling process - leave the lid off or mostly uncovered - I have a clean screen that I place over the kettle while chilling to allow the SMM/DMS to escape out (if it is forming at all).
I have used extended hop stands on Pilsners quite a few times with a covered kettle, and I have yet to notice any DMS.

1168
Equipment and Software / Re: Plastic Mash Tun Safety
« on: September 09, 2015, 07:26:52 AM »
Listen to the presentation from this year's NHC on Homebrew toxicology, as well as the podcasts on the same topic on Basic Brewing Radio. The basic gist is that there is very little concern with exposure to anything toxic in plastic coolers, even at hot temperature. I'd just give it one or two rinses with hot water prior to use. Any residues that are remaining after manufacturing are water soluble and will rinse out easily.

1169
Wow, received a response to my email within 30 minutes from one of the owners. They seemed to show genuine concern and offered to replace my one bottle with a six pack. This type of customer service and concern with quality is an example of why the craft brewing industry will, IMO, continue to thrive. ;)
I don't know that it speaks of the entire craft brewing community at large, but it does show that this particular brewery seems to have the right priorities.

1170
Ingredients / Re: Hops question
« on: September 08, 2015, 08:50:59 PM »
Agreed on the hop stand recommendations, and it has also been my experience that whirlpool hops age better than dry hops. they also lend a lot more flavor than dry hops, which primarily impart aroma.

If you're looking for citrus, then I'd just use more Cascade in the whirlpool after chilling down to about 170F. This will add hop flavor without increasing the bitterness by any noticeable amount. Citra tends to add more mango than anything else (at least to my palate). Cascade has that classic C-hop white grapefruit note that should get you what you're after.

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