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Messages - erockrph

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Ordinarily, I'd say "IPA" for my ale, but I never brew the same recipe twice. So I'll have to go with my ESB, which is based on Fullers. 93% MO, 7% Dark UK Crystal, hopped with Challenger, EKG and Caliente.

For lagers, it's definitely my "Erocktoberfest", which is a Maerzen with some added Aromatic to kick up the maltiness.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Crushed Grain Shelf Life
« on: October 22, 2014, 09:08:40 PM »
A roller mill is an investment that many brewers are hesitant to make; however, I have yet to meet an all-grain brewer who is not glad he/she did so after the sting of the purchase has faded.  There are several nice mills that can be had for under $150.00 shipped.  If you are patient, you may be able to pick up a used pre-adjusted Schmidling Malt Mill for under $75.00.  Those mills are good for several tons of grain.
Agreed! You certainly don't need a grain mill to get started in all-grain, but I'd highly recommend it as your first upgrade. My efficiencies were all over the place until I started milling my own grain. Plus, you can start to buy grain in bulk. Outside of a couple of liquid yeast packs, I haven't had to buy any brewing ingredients at all this year - I've just been using up my stockpiles.

As an example, my LHBS carries Briess 2 row and Briess 2 row brewer's pale malt. I have had the same question, what's the difference? And what to use when a recipe simply states "pale malt"

Order some Rahr 2-row. Problem solved :)

But seriously, both of those Briess malts sound like the same thing, unless one is actually their "Pale Ale" malt, or one is their organic malt.

"Pale malt" and "2-row" are often used to describe the same thing, in those cases it would indeed be interchangeable because it is the same thing.

"Pale Malt" and "Pale Ale Malt" aren't necessarily interchangeable. You could probably sub one for another in a recipe and be in the same ballpark, but the base malt character will be different (possibly a lot different). Base malt is different than specialty malts in that even 1 degree Lovibond is enough to give a significant difference in flavor. Pils, Pale, Pale Ale and Vienna are all within a couple of degrees L of each other, but they all result in different beers if used as the base malt.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Honey Smacks Beer??!?
« on: October 22, 2014, 07:46:33 AM »
I just don't think that you're going to get much carryover in flavor if you mash a cereal like this. The ingredients are pretty basic:

Sugar, wheat, dextrose, honey, contains 2% or less of vegetable oil (hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated soybean), salt, caramel color, soy lecithin, BHT for freshness

Outside of the puffed wheat, I don't see much here that would seem like it would continue to have much of a flavor impact on the finished beer after going through the boil and fermentation. The BHT might help shelf stability a bit, I guess...

The Brewing Network used to air a show called "Can you Brew it".  Not sure if there is a database of the recipes they got from brewers, I remember seeing some posted on other forums at one point.  You could always listen to the shows I suppose.

Did the recipes actually come from breweries or were they someone's guess at what the brewery did?

They would typically interview the brewer and get the recipe and process details directly from them. They would then scale the recipe to homebrew size, brew it, and do taste test with the commercial example to determine "cloned" or "not cloned".

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast starter time question
« on: October 21, 2014, 09:11:58 PM »
I would suggest using a yeast calculator because a repeatable process is the first step to learning what works.  Then you can adjust your SWAG from there.  It's better than dropping the bomb on your beer and hoping for the best.

Bingo. It's very much like using an IBU calculator. You're not likely to hit the measured number. You're probably not even particularly close. But you need some sort of benchmark for measuring your initial conditions, and some way to quantify what changes you make for subsequent batches. The calculator doesn't need to give you a number that equates to anything in the real world. It just needs to model conditions close enough where you can compare and adjust between batches.

And at that point the pencil and paper become the more important tools. In the end, we brew for ourselves and our own palates. A number like 55IBU or 250 billion cells means nothing until you can quantify the results with your own palate.

Generally "Pale malt" and "2-row" are both used to describe pale North American 2-row malt, and are often used interchangeably. Technically you could have a Pale 6-row malt, but you will almost always hear that specified as 6-row. As Sean said "Pale Ale" malts are generally kilned a bit darker, in between a Pils/Pale malt and Vienna.

I use 32% dark wheat, 30.5% Munich, 30% pale wheat, 6% cara Munich, and 1.5% carafa ii dehusked.

I've never used the dark wheat malt. Is it like the wheat equivalent of Munich? What kind of flavor do you get out of it.

I haven't brewed a dunkelweizen in a while. I might have to schedule one for the early spring. It's actually a fun style to play around with spices. I brewed a Vanilla Dunkelweizen a few years ago that was really nice. I'm thinking some combination of cacao, cinnamon and/or vanilla the next time I brew one.

Equipment and Software / Re: Pretty neat growler, but $100
« on: October 20, 2014, 08:08:35 PM »
I saw this today, too. Like most of these things, it's a great idea, but about twice the price point I'd be willing to pay. I have limited keezer/fermentation chamber space. I'd love to fill a growler off a keg and leave it in my kitchen fridge while I am using the ferm chamber for brewing lagers. But not at that price.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Batch19
« on: October 20, 2014, 07:58:18 PM »
Resurrecting an old thread as I was finally able to get one in mix-a-six format. I have to say, this is really good for a macro, but it still tastes like a macro. I get some sweetness on the tail end and a bit of corn. But otherwise, this is good stuff. The malt definitely reminds me of Coors. The bittering has a nice snap to it, and it actually smells and tastes like beer. I'd even consider buying a sack of Coors 2-row if it was available.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle conitioning a 10 abv Baltic Porter.
« on: October 20, 2014, 05:35:26 PM »
You should be OK without any extra yeast as long as you're patient. It doesn't hurt to add a little extra at bottling as an insurance policy if you'd like. But you need way less than you think you do. One or two grams of US-05 at bottling is all that you need for a 5-gallon batch. If you use too much yeast you will get a lot of trub in your bottles.

This ^^^^   I have not had any real problems getting big beers to carbonate.  Patience is all you need.  Maybe instead of getting carbonation at about 2 weeks, it will take a full month.  It will still work.  Since you've fermented for nearly 2 months though, it might not be a bad idea to add a couple of ounces grams of fresh US-05 as insurance.  Not a full pack but just a sprinkle is all.
Fixed. Unless you like drinking yeast sludge...

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Videos
« on: October 20, 2014, 05:33:12 PM »
Brewing basics bug me. Can't put my finger on it. Too cheeseball maybe?
Yes, they're cornier than a bourbon wash. That's part of the appeal to me. Different strokes, I suppose...

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Sludge
« on: October 20, 2014, 05:32:02 PM »
I heard a few comparison experiments that repeatedly showed little to no difference between beers that were fermented off the trub, versus ones where the entire kettle was dumped into the fermenter. Since I'm always looking for one less unnecessary step to perform on brewday I just started dumping everything into the fermenter. Since then I have had a run of hoppy beers that have ended up with a vegetal bitterness and cloudy suspended hop material that won't drop clear. I'm going back to filtering for a while to see if that helps. So, the verdict is still out on my end.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Homebrew Videos
« on: October 20, 2014, 05:26:41 PM »
I've watched some of the Northern Brewer, a cpl of the Chop and Brew, and a cpl Don Osborn videos.
Sounds about right. The old Brewing TV videos, and then Chip's new Chop & Brew shows, along with Basic Brewing Video, are probably the best video podcasts related to homebrewing. Don O's videos are pretty good as well, although less polished than BBV and BTV.

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