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Messages - erockrph

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1246
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: hop stand exbeeriment
« on: February 02, 2016, 02:45:46 AM »
My thoughts:

A) Can we please stop referring to flash points when it comes to hop oils? That term refers to the flammability of the pure substance, and has little bearing on the evaporation rate when dissolved in a solution.

B) I don't think this is a great test when it comes to bitterness because 1) the scheduled boil hops were used as planned and 2) it is an IPA and therefore would already have a decent amount of IBU's by the time you get to your whirlpool additions. A better test would be something with low IBU's in the boil. Better yet, no boil hops and followed up with lab analyses of measured IBU to compare perceived bitterness vs measured IBU's.

C) This is a decent data point regarding whirlpool additions at various temperatures. But I think this is something that needs a lot of data points at various time/temp/hopping rates to see if we can fit a trend. Looking forward to the IGORs' results.

As always, thanks to the Brulosophy folks for the time and effort spent on this.

1247
All Grain Brewing / Re: no sparge
« on: February 01, 2016, 02:57:29 PM »
"The brewhouse efficiency of the tick mashes remained almost constant between 58 and 60% over the temperature range of the experiments, but the brewhouse efficiency for the thinner mash showed a strong dependency on the temperature and was always better than the efficiency of the tick mash. That leads to the conclusion that thinner mashes perform better and allow for better extraction of the grain. Briggs also reports that thinner mashes can convert more starch but that most of the conversion potential is reached at a water to grist ratio of 2.5 l/kg [Briggs, 2004] "

Isn't 2.5 l/kg about equivalent to 1.2 qts/lb?  How is that thinner than say 2 qts/lb. mentioned in previous posts above?  I'm confused.
Good catch. Leave it to the metric folk to screw up a good thing  ;)

1248
All Grain Brewing / Re: no sparge
« on: February 01, 2016, 02:33:12 PM »
I'm a novice at this.  I've been doing all-grain BIAB on darker beers with OG from 1.040 to 1.060.  I run my grain through the mill twice for a finer crush to improve efficiency.

I'd often wondered about the water to grain ratios being thinner for BIAB.  I'm going to try Denny's idea of mashing at 1.75 to 2 qts/ lb and then topping up to boil volume.
I go up to the low 3's qt/lb using a hybrid BIAB/no-sparge method without an issue. I start to run into issues with decreases in efficiency as I get closer to 4qt/lb, so I've started using Denny's top-off method for session beers where the mash would be extra-thin.

I can't say that I check my pH's religiously, but I spot-checked several recipes when I started brewing AG using this technique and everything was always within range of what I was expecting based on Brun'water and Kai's calculator on Brewer's Friend.

You should get better efficiency from a thinner mash rather than lower efficiency:
http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Effects_of_mash_parameters_on_fermentability_and_efficiency_in_single_infusion_mashing#Mash_thickness

"The brewhouse efficiency of the tick mashes remained almost constant between 58 and 60% over the temperature range of the experiments, but the brewhouse efficiency for the thinner mash showed a strong dependency on the temperature and was always better than the efficiency of the tick mash. That leads to the conclusion that thinner mashes perform better and allow for better extraction of the grain. Briggs also reports that thinner mashes can convert more starch but that most of the conversion potential is reached at a water to grist ratio of 2.5 l/kg [Briggs, 2004] "
Interesting information there. In the past, I increased the duration of my mash on the thinner batches and that brought their efficiency in line with the thicker ones, so I'm pretty sure I didn't max out the absolute efficiency possible at 4 qt/lb.

I prefer the top-off method now for session beers because I pre-heat my topoff water in the kettle and runoff into it. That saves me some time on the way to boil, and kind of does some of the function of a mashout for batches where I want to lock in the dextrin profile instead of having some ongoing conversion as I start heating my wort to boil.

1249
All Grain Brewing / Re: no sparge
« on: February 01, 2016, 01:45:17 PM »
I'm a novice at this.  I've been doing all-grain BIAB on darker beers with OG from 1.040 to 1.060.  I run my grain through the mill twice for a finer crush to improve efficiency.

I'd often wondered about the water to grain ratios being thinner for BIAB.  I'm going to try Denny's idea of mashing at 1.75 to 2 qts/ lb and then topping up to boil volume.
I go up to the low 3's qt/lb using a hybrid BIAB/no-sparge method without an issue. I start to run into issues with decreases in efficiency as I get closer to 4qt/lb, so I've started using Denny's top-off method for session beers where the mash would be extra-thin.

I can't say that I check my pH's religiously, but I spot-checked several recipes when I started brewing AG using this technique and everything was always within range of what I was expecting based on Brun'water and Kai's calculator on Brewer's Friend.

1250
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blueberry ale
« on: February 01, 2016, 08:47:37 AM »
There are many commercial blueberry ales out here in New England, and some of them are actually decent ;)

The base beer is almost always a clean blond ale that finishes dry, but not overly so. I'd keep it simple and not super malty. If you use MO as a base, then I wouldn't be looking to add any extra maltiness with additional specialty malts - the MO should be just enough. I think your original plan for MO/Oats/sugar with US-05 sounds solid. Either of your hop options will work. I'd keep the hopping relatively low, with just a 60-minute addition to get your IBU's.

I'm not sure when blueberries come into season out your way, but floating a few in the glass is definitely the best way to serve a blueberry ale. Bonus points is you can score some of the small wild-type blueberries.

1251
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Can a yeast starter be stored in the fridge?
« on: January 31, 2016, 07:02:11 PM »
You absolutely can. The sooner you use it the better, but you're probably good for 1-2 weeks without a problem.

1252
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ferment Beer 9 Times Faster
« on: January 31, 2016, 06:18:25 PM »
I wonder if the microfluid part would give the same result as just stirring/pumping the fermenting wort around on a regular (non-micro) scale.
I was thinking this as well, but I'm also wondering what their pitching rate is as well. I'm thinking that the yeast must be in a stationary phase in the bioreactor and are just feeding on the wort at whatever rate it is being fed to them.

Extrapolating a bit, I wonder if you could replicate this by having some sort of setup where you have your yeast slurry in a small keg or water filter chamber and slowly circulate wort through it by jumping it from one keg to another.

Very cool tech from the sounds of it. I'd love to get into the nuts and bolts of it. I'm also wondering if it only works for certain gravity ranges, beer styles, etc., or if it is something that will work for any fermentation.

1253
The Pub / Re: Chocolate stash
« on: January 30, 2016, 12:58:31 AM »
Now that's some customer service for you!

1254
Ingredients / Re: Single-hopped beers 2015 edition
« on: January 30, 2016, 12:55:04 AM »
I just received 8 oz. of Vic Secret yesterday.  They are like 17.4% AA.
Mine are 16.5, so that sounds about right. I didn't have my AA%'s in front of me when I wrote these up.

Vic Secret - 16.5% AA
Enigma - 18.1% AA
X-17 - 9.6% AA
HBC438 - 16.6% AA
Exp. Armadillo - 5.5% AA

1255
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 2016 Spring Swap
« on: January 29, 2016, 03:13:20 PM »
I prefer the Briess Pilsen DME myself, too. I just happened to see the amylase on the shelf at my LHBS (they sell lots of flaked corn and amylase by the pound for some reason, hmm...) and figured I'd give it a try. Plus the Munich LME isn't quite as fermentable as the Pilsen DME and I want to make sure this attenuates well.

I've been doing more extract brews lately, and if this let's me control attenuation better I might add it to my toolkit. I might run some FFTs on some small batches to see if it really makes a quantifiable difference with various extracts.

Please tell me I'm not the only one whose first thought is "Fast Fourier Transform" whenever I see FFT...
For me I always think of Final Fantasy Tactics...

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


1256
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Lager starters
« on: January 29, 2016, 03:20:14 AM »
Can't argue with tangible experience.

I wonder if I should try it on a small batch lager....


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I do 2.5g batches and did a 1L starter, shaken not stirred, in a 5L flasks for 3 different lagers. All of them under attenuated from my normal experience and had more than perceptable esters. I pitched at high krausen, I think I even have a picture of it somewhere.

I tried to like it. I don't. No big deal though, there are plenty of ways to skin a cat.
Interesting. I've only done SNS once for a lager, but I was quite happy with the results. I did a 1.25 qt starter for a 3 gallon batch, so a similar rate to you, and otherwise followed my normal lager routine. The batch turned out great, and I'm committed to using SNS in the future.

I did miss high krausen by a few hours. Not sure if that made a difference, but the beer turned out crisp and clean. Yeast was WY2278, FWIW.

1257
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA App Survey
« on: January 28, 2016, 08:19:28 PM »
The big thing for me would be a dedicated forum. You lose some of the ambiance with Tapatalk


As long as the forum app works well. Some past Tapatalk updates have made the forums virtually unusable. If the forum app isn't up to snuff, I'd end up sticking with Tapatalk.

1258
Ingredients / Re: Where to buy quality ingredients
« on: January 28, 2016, 08:08:41 PM »
More Beer and AiH are both solid choices. AiH runs a lot of cool deals so when I make big orders I often buy through AiH to capture a good deal.

Several smaller outlets are great for hops. Farmhouse Brewing Supply has a nice hop selection and reasonable pricing. Yakima Valley Hops, Freshhops and Hopsdirect are also good options.
Agreed on all this. I generally use AiH for kegs, Farmhouse, YVH and Hopsdirect for hops (and Hop Heaven as well - the shop is on ebay, FYI), and MoreBeer for grain and yeast. Northern Brewer, Rebel Brewer, Midwest, and Austin Homebrew Supply are all good online retailers as well. I only switched to MoreBeer because they opened up a warehouse on the East Coast, so they are much closer to me.

1259
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: diacetyl in lagers
« on: January 28, 2016, 06:55:30 PM »
If you want practice tasting diacetyl in a lager, RedHook Pilsner is the biggest D-bomb I've ever had. I get it in most of their beers, but the Pilsner is the worst offender of them all.

1260
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Firstbatch aftertaste
« on: January 28, 2016, 05:06:28 PM »
I found that 14 days is generally the point where you reach a drinkable level of carbonation, but it takes 3-4 weeks at room temperature to really reach full carbonation.

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