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Messages - erockrph

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1276
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: priming boil and cool question
« on: November 06, 2015, 12:07:39 PM »
I boil just for a minute to make sure the sugar is dissolved.  That's all that's needed.  I don't cool it at all....pour it into the bottling bucket and rack the beer on top.  That'll cool it immediately.
That's exactly what I have been doing for the past year or so. Easy and effective.
I do something pretty similar. I start racking with the tube running around the outside of my bottling bucket. this way the beer coming in swirls around the bucket. Once there's an inch or so of beer in the bucket I add my boiled sugar solution. This does a good job of mixing it well, and I don't worry about most of the sugar staying on the bottom of the bucket.

I add my sugar to about a cup of water in a mason jar, then microwave it for 2 minutes to dissolve.

1277
Beer Recipes / Re: Another Munich Dunkel thread...
« on: November 06, 2015, 11:04:07 AM »
I think late hops tend to fight the malt and never end up the way you were hoping. I've tried brewing hoppy Octoberfests in the past and I always thought that the late hops were lower than hoped because the maltiness overshadowed it. I also find that by the time lagering is finished the late hops are starting to fade as well.

Hoppy altbiers tend to lean towards a solid bittering addition, although they definitely have moe late hop character than a Dunkel. It won't hurt to try what your planning, but I'd keep a reasonable expectation for the kind of late hop character you'll end up with.

1278
Beer Recipes / Re: First Saison Attempt
« on: November 05, 2015, 07:53:13 PM »
I agree probably it's a terminology issue. A 'chewy' beer to me is an up front malty beer - big stout, Ayinger Celebrator, baryleywine, etc. Using a yeast like 3711 can give give a full, creamy-ish mouthfeel even at a very low FG . And as Jonathan mentioned using a fair amount of grains like wheat or rye (both bread ingredients) could give a bready impression as well.
+1 - I think we're on a similar page, but with a terminology issue, because of the mention of "Chardonnay" character. I get a juicy character akin to a dry white wine, especially from 3711. I don't call it chewy or mouthcoating, but that's because I reserve those terms for high FG beers like barleywine or scotch ale. Sort of how the term "dry" can mean different things to different people. I refer to it as the lack of sweetness in a beverage, while others refer to the mouthfeel sensation of tannins or sulfates.

I also get the "breadlike" impression from many saisons as well, but again I don't call it chewy.

1279
Ingredients / Re: Mango Coconut Hefeweizen
« on: November 05, 2015, 07:44:36 PM »
If you're planning on using coconut water, I'd adjust your volume and OG to account for the late addition of cocunut water, then add it after high krausen or in secondary.

1280
Ingredients / Re: simco hops
« on: November 04, 2015, 07:43:33 PM »
Farmhouse has 4oz bags of this year's crop in pellets:
http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/simcoe-4-oz-2015-new-crop/

1281
One other thought - find out which brand your competitor carries and carry the opposite. My closest LHBS's carry White Labs. If someone nearby carried Wyeast I'd be a frequent flier.

1282
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Wort Split: Single + Czech Pils
« on: November 04, 2015, 11:16:26 AM »
Do you know specifically which Czech lager strain it is? Budvar is the only one I've used that I think wouldn't make a good German Pils. 2124 and 2278 will make a fine German Pils if managed appropriately.

1283
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: There's Gold In Davis, California
« on: November 04, 2015, 08:58:28 AM »
Really cool post, Mark! Do you have any information on how the lay person can obtain cultures from these banks? I have some starters stepping up with my WLP??? cultures that I got from a comtaminated agar plate. If all turns out well with that experiment, I think I'd be up for delving a little deeper into the dark arts of yeast culturing.

1284
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: extract Belgian Pale Ale recipe?
« on: November 04, 2015, 07:37:51 AM »
This is an extract version of my all-grain recipe. I whirlpool the flameout hops for about 10 minutes, so that's where the IBU's are coming from on them. I like WY3864 when it's available, but yeast choice is up to you. You can also probably skip the CaraMunich if you're looking for a drier version of the style.

Quote
Title: BPA (Extract)

Brew Method: Extract
Style Name: Belgian Pale Ale
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 4 gallons

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.057
Final Gravity: 1.012
ABV (standard): 5.9%
IBU (tinseth): 29.75
SRM (morey): 12.5

FERMENTABLES:
3.3 lb - Liquid Malt Extract - Munich (39.8%)
3 lb - Dry Malt Extract - Pilsen - (late addition)  (36.1%)
1 lb - Belgian Candi Syrup - D-45 - (late addition)  (12%)

STEEPING GRAINS:
0.5 lb - German - CaraMunich I (6%)
0.5 lb - Belgian - Aromatic (6%)

HOPS:
1 oz - Styrian Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 5.5, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 25.06
0.5 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 5, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 2.23
0.5 oz - Styrian Goldings, Type: Pellet, AA: 5.5, Use: Boil for 0 min, IBU: 2.45

YEAST:
Wyeast - Canadian/Belgian Ale 3864

1285
I usually use dry yeast, so my list is pretty short.

Ale:
1968/WLP002
3711
3864 (Seasonal)
WLP013
1762

Lager:
2633
2278

1286
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: kegerator
« on: November 03, 2015, 08:31:39 AM »
Keg-ə-rayt-ər

1287
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Swap-toberfest '15
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:56:04 PM »
I used about 10% Pils malt because I wanted the beer to dry out, but then I ended up undershooting my FG by quite a bit and needed to add DME to boost the FG a bit. I think it was Light DME rather than Extra Light and that's where the caramel note is likely coming from.

Hops were 33 IBU of Mandarina at 60 minutes, and 2.5 oz Mandarina and 1.5 oz of Apollo whirlpooled at 170F for 30 minutes. I didn't dry hop, and I do think the hop character dropped out quite a bit during lagering.

For a 3 gallon batch I added 3g gypsum, and 0.5g each of CaCl2 and Kosher Salt to my well water, targeting 70ppm Calcium, 25ppm Sodium, 40ppm Chloride and 100ppm Sulfate. Also added Lactic acid to target 5.3 mash pH. Mashed at 149F for 80 minutes.

I brewed this for tailgating with some coworkers, so I didn't push the hops as much as I typically would if I was brewing for myself. I was still very happy with the balance with this one. I wanted to make sure it finished plenty dry and crisp, but not sharply bitter. I don't know how much the 2278 contributed to the dryness, but I was quite happy with my results using it.

1288
Equipment and Software / Re: BIAB. Please share ideas, pros/cons, methods.
« on: November 02, 2015, 05:34:31 PM »
I'm confused.  I thought that BIAB was supposed to be LOWER efficiency than batch sparge.  I assume because you don't rinse out the residual sugars in the sparge step.
In BIAB you are essentially including all your sparge water in the mash as well. You end up mashing so thin that there is very little sugar behind to rinse off the grain. My efficiency is right around 84-86%, depending on how lazy I get about squeezing my grain bag. And that is another efficiency boost with BIAB - there is zero dead space to account for, and you can really minimize grain absorption bu squeezing your bag out.

I wouldn't say BIAB is inherently more or less efficient than batch sparging. The specifics will depend on your own system within each method.

1289
Equipment and Software / Re: BIAB. Please share ideas, pros/cons, methods.
« on: November 02, 2015, 11:28:36 AM »
I love BIAB for 2.5-3 gallon batches. I can come home after work and start a batch at 5:30 and be cleaned up by 8:30 and eat supper during the mash. I have good efficiency and not much more trub. My bag is very fine.

I love batch sparge for 5+ gallons.

EDIT: I would add that they are both so cheap that its no problem to get the equipment for both. Storage wise biab is obviously better but you can also store equipment in a cooler MT.
I split the difference and BIAB in a cooler to hold my mash temps. I brew 3 gallon batches (ending kettle volume), and this hits the sweet spot for me. I agree that managing the wet grain would potentially become an issue in larger batches, but this system works great for my purposes.

1290
Beer Recipes / Re: Marzen
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:35:53 AM »
A small % of dark munich malt (15L or so) is also a nice addition to a good ofest/marzen to bump up the malty background.
Aromatic malt works well in this regard also. My Maerzen is essentially the BCS recipe with the CaraMunich replaced by half as much Aromatic.
Sounds a bit like Saranac's Dark-toberfest. I have always been of fan of that beer. They use Munich, Dark Munich, CaraMunich and Pilsner.
That sounds like it's approaching Bock territory. I like my Maerzens malty, but not so rich. I use Pils, Vienna, Light Munich and a splash of Aromatic.

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