I like to keep it pretty soft on this style. I like Cl around 40 and Na around 20-30. This leaves me with Ca in the 40ppm range, which is fine for a lager. I like 5.3 for my mash pH as well.
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Yea, the vial would probably be fine with the gravity. I figured I'd error on the side of a starter since beer smith suggested more cells and I hear that a heartier pitch with 002 should reduce esters and diacytelEsters, maybe. I'd still bump up the temps and rouse the yeast at the end to insure against diacetyl. When 002 is done it drops like a stone. If there's diacetyl left at that point it may stick around.
I'm pretty sure. I was trying to add body to a session beer, and added about 5% flaked barley to my existing recipe. I never got that flavor in any previous versions of the beer, just the one with flaked barley.I tried flaked barley in an APA and will never use it again in a pale beer. I get a raw, grassy flavor from it that I just didn't care for.
Are you sure that came from the flaked barley? Ive used it on a number of accassions and never had that flavor.
Could it be that the chewing and saliva starts to isomerise them?I had that thought, but the quality of the bitterness is so much different that I have a hard time buying that as the sole explanation.
I tried flaked barley in an APA and will never use it again in a pale beer. I get a raw, grassy flavor from it that I just didn't care for.It will still gives you body but less silky. But that is just my opinion. Keep on brewing.May be flaked barley is a better option. Use about 8-10%.
Can I ask why you would suggest barley instead of oats? What would be the differences to expect?
Did you notice this in the analysis from Steiner that I posted? It lists iso alpha acids, alpha-acids, and humulinones.If unisomerized AA's are not bitter, there has to be something else in the plant material that is harshly bitter, because it sure tastes that way to me.
"The alpha-acids are not bitter though they contribute to bitterness units value. The humulinones are oxidized alpha-acids and are slightly bitter."
Actually the way you use it as a liner for batch sparging in a cooler would work great for me. Do they make them for round coolers? It seems it would be easier for me to just pull the bag, give some grains to the chickens and the rest to the compost. Its a piano (Edit PIA: damn autofill) to dump from the cooler with a false bottom.I use a bag from bagbrewer.com in my 5-gallon round cooler and it works great. He will make it to any measurement you specify. I had him make it wide enough to use in my kettle in case I ever wanted to use it on the stove as a traditional BIAB, but high enough to line my 5-gallon cooler. My procedure is to do a full-volume mash in the cooler, sort of a hybrid between BIAB and more typical cooler mash. The cooler helps hold mash temps for me better than keeping it on the stove in my kettle.
As far as biab goes I love it for 2.5 gallon batches on weeknights in the winter in my kitchen and its made me a better brewer because I have been able to do way more batches. That being said, if I have the time and the weather is OK I prefer batch sparging outside and I wouldn't want to do 5 gal biab.
From everything I've heard and read, both the saturation limit AND people's ability to taste IBUs quit at around 90 IBUs. Personally I'm coming to more the conclusion that we are able to taste really nasty bitterness, but the solubility limit in normal beers of around 6-8% ABV is about 90-100 IBUs maximum, so it's really NOT a matter of taste, but just the solubility. If you lick some HopShot or hop extract sometime, you'll understand exactly what I mean -- we are able to taste some really horrible levels of IBUs like 1000 or 10,000 IBUs or whatever. But, you'll never find those levels in real beer. Isomerized alpha acids just are not able to dissolve any farther in your herbed up maltose/ethanol/water mixture, i.e., beer.I have come to believe that there is more going on with hops than simply iso-AA when it comes to harsh bitterness in highly-hopped beer. Like you mentioned, Hop Shot tastes nasty (as does crunching on a hop pellet), and those AA's (and other bitter components) haven't been isomerized yet.
I would likely have to stop brewing without Fermcap. I boil 4 gallons (with the lid on until I get up to a rolling boil) in a 5 gallon pot on my stove. If I boiled over with any great frequency the wife would cut me off.I stopped worrying about it some time ago. Read this the other day, I am not worried.
"The dose makes the poison"
Fermcap-S Safe level is 13g/day, at 2 drops per carboy the per glass rate you would get is 0.009g/glass. I can't drink that much beer! 1400 pints day.
Source the "Homebrew Toxicology" presentation by Paul Hanlon, NHC 2015.
Alcohol is the most toxic thing we are ingesting.
Agreed, but why not limit what you can? I've had no trouble living with drastically reduced of Fermcap.
Interesting. I've heard a few experiments over the past few years on some of the homebrewing podcasts, and they all seemed to fall under the predicted IBU by 20-50%. There are probably a lot of variables affecting this, though. I'm not sure which equations they were using, though.That, and I think a lot of IBU calculators overestimate utilization at the homebrew scale. By calculating FWH as a 20-minute addition you may just be compensating for this overestimate and ending up with the IBU level you had intended in the first place.
FWIW, the analysis of the beers I did was almost spot on with what was predicted by Promash.
I also do this all the time. I have a couple of 3 gallon carboys I use for long term aging.Same here. I brew 2.5-3 gallon batches. My sours primary in a 5 gallon better bottle and condition in a 3-gallon one. My clean beers ferment in buckets ranging from 4.5-6.5 gallons, then go into 2.5-gallon kegs.