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Messages - erockrph

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1291
Ingredients / Single-hopped beers 2015 edition
« on: October 30, 2015, 05:56:08 PM »
I just brewed another round of single-hopped beers today. Most of these hops had some really nice aroma to them, and I'm really looking forward to tasting the beers in a month or so. I didn't really like how my last batches came out using steeped CaraHell, so I went back to my original recipe of 13 oz Light DME (2 1/3 cups by volume) and 5 oz Munich LME (1/3 cup by volume) in 1 gallon preboil volume. Hops were between 40-45 IBU (calculated as a 20-minute addition) added after the extract dissolved, 15 minute boil, 0.25 oz flameout hops and each will get 1/2 oz of dry hops.

Here's the list of hops for this series of beers:

Vic Secret - a new hop from NZ Australia
Enigma - another new hop from NZ Australia
Armadillo Experimental - an experimental hop available from Yakima Valley Hops
HBC 438 (aka "Ron Mexico") - a new hop from HBC, that is currently only available to homebrewers.
X-17 - a new experimental hop from The Oregon Hophouse, who were kind enough to send me a sample to review. I am really excited about these.

Here are links to my past years' tasting notes:
2012
2013
2014

Gratuitous hop porn:



Edit - I have a bad habit of assuming all Southern Hemisphere hops come from new Zealand

1292
Ingredients / Re: Replacement for CaraVienna?
« on: October 30, 2015, 08:23:25 AM »
Castle renamed all their malts in the past year or so. The CaraRuby may simply be their new name for CaraVienne.

1293


If the colonies are hemispherical and smooth, you received a bonus yeast culture.  If the colonies are fuzzy, they are more than likely mold.  Personally, I would take one of the well-isolated colonies, and grow it into a pitchable culture using aseptic technique to see what you received.  However, I am one of those people who is willing to spend good money on an unknown culture, and then pitch it into wort that took several hours to prepare.  No guts, no glory! :)

No fuzz. They look like shiny/waxy white pellets. I'm brewing today, so I'll have to try this out while I'm at it.

1294
By the way, I thought that the yeastman website was only available to professional brewers.
Nope. Anyone can set up an account and start using it right away.

1295
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Super Pale Ale
« on: October 29, 2015, 04:32:28 PM »
Is that what they're calling IPA's now?

1296
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Shaking
« on: October 29, 2015, 04:31:39 PM »
A technique used in home winemaking was to run the wine along the side of the vessel so that the wine fanned out.  I can get the wort to cover 1/5 - 1/3 of the side of a carboy.  Not sure how effective this is but I also shake/splash.
I pour my wort through a series of 600 µm - 100 µm filters, and I suspect I pick up a fair amount of O2 that way myself.

1297
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: New Blog
« on: October 29, 2015, 12:19:01 PM »
Looking forward to it, Mark!

I hope you cross-post to this forum the way Marshall has been with his Brulosophy posts.There's always a lot of food for thought in the information you share, and I get as much from the follow-up discussion as the information itself.

1298
The plate in question:


1299
If you're price shopping, check out White Labs lab supplies section on yeastman.com  I can't speak to the quality as of yet, but I just placed an order from them for some pre-poured plates to play around with plating and isolating colonies from mixed cultures. Prices were in the range of $15 for a 10-pack depending on the specific media you get.
I got my White Labs shipment in a few days back and everything seemed to be good quality. All the plates looked to be in good shape and sealed with parafilm. When I went to plate some samples today, I found that they included a bonus mystery culture on one of the plates   :-\

Aside from that, I'm happy with the selection on yeastman.com and quality of everything else I received. I went the "sterile/disposable" route whenever possible on this shipment, since I'm not sure whether I'm in it for the long-term yet. Their 50mL screw-top vials are pretty handy, as are the 125 mL Nalgene bottles. I won't be using the disposable innoculation loops again, though. They had a tendency to dig into the agar on the plate instead of gliding over the top.

I'm going to be contacting White Labs customer service regarding the dirty plate and will report back when I get a response.

1300
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First wort hopping and whirlpool
« on: October 29, 2015, 10:09:01 AM »
I'll give this a try myself in my next hoppy batch. Curious, if you feel you get more hop flavor by lowering the temp before adding your whirlpool/steeping hops, or is it just a method to limit bitterness without losing flavor?

If, for example, I'm brewing a DIPA that is clocking in around 100 IBU, then I'm not too worried about the  bitterness. If it also adds flavor, then.........
I drop the temp solely to limit IBU's. For my massively hopped IPA's where I don't need to cap the bitterness at a certain level, then my only hop addition is at flameout after all boiling has stopped. I put in all my hops and whirlpool for 90 minutes. The hop flavor you get from this is immense. I certainly don't feel like I'm losing any hop character versus a 170F whirlpool, but I'm also using over 4oz/gallon of hops in this recipe so I don't know if you'd even notice a minor difference.

One thing I've noticed about an all-whirlpool hopped beer is that the bittering seems a lot smoother than you'd expect. I had my IPA measured and it was 98 IBU, but it tasted closer to a smooth 60 IBUs to my palate.

Interesting strategy. This is referred to as 'hop bursting' if I'm not mistaken? Assuming similar IBUs and same hops. What do you perceive to be the flavor differences between a beer that is FWH for all the IBUs and then 170F whirlpooled vs a beer that uses this massive hop bursting strategy?
I believe "hop bursting" is generally referring to using all your hops in the late boil (at 15 minutes or less), rather than just whirlpool hopping.

As far as the comparison between this method and using FWH or 60 minute additions for bittering with a 170F whirlpool, I can't say that I've ever done an apples-to-apples comparison. I reserve the hot whirlpool method for IPAs where I'm not counting IBU's, and use the 170F whirlpool for when I want better control over my IBU's (like a Pale Ale, for example). I'm generally using less flavor hops in those beers as well, so I can't say that I could draw a direct conclusion.

1301
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Mikkeller Spontanbeetroot
« on: October 29, 2015, 09:26:29 AM »
I thought I had read somewhere that he uses Girardin as his base lambic. I definitely get that funky Girardin Brett note on the nose with some of the beers in this series, but not all of them.

Not saying that he doesn't but...


Interesting that he did that one as a collab beer instead of selling it under the Mikkeller brand. If you're a gypsy brewer, isn't every beer a collaboration brew?

1302
Is iodophor effective against yeast and molds? Is that a better alternative to Star-San?

Yes, iodophor is broad spectrum, but I would still hit everything that has held Brett with diluted bleach or peracetic acid.
Iodophors are fungicidal, but may require extended contact times for certain species of fungus. I haven't seen data specifically regarding contact times for Brett, but I don't think I'd feel comfortable using an iodophor to eradicate a Brett infection. I agree with Mark that bleach, or something else broad-spectrum is a better option.

1303
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First wort hopping and whirlpool
« on: October 29, 2015, 06:27:32 AM »
I'll give this a try myself in my next hoppy batch. Curious, if you feel you get more hop flavor by lowering the temp before adding your whirlpool/steeping hops, or is it just a method to limit bitterness without losing flavor?

If, for example, I'm brewing a DIPA that is clocking in around 100 IBU, then I'm not too worried about the  bitterness. If it also adds flavor, then.........
I drop the temp solely to limit IBU's. For my massively hopped IPA's where I don't need to cap the bitterness at a certain level, then my only hop addition is at flameout after all boiling has stopped. I put in all my hops and whirlpool for 90 minutes. The hop flavor you get from this is immense. I certainly don't feel like I'm losing any hop character versus a 170F whirlpool, but I'm also using over 4oz/gallon of hops in this recipe so I don't know if you'd even notice a minor difference.

One thing I've noticed about an all-whirlpool hopped beer is that the bittering seems a lot smoother than you'd expect. I had my IPA measured and it was 98 IBU, but it tasted closer to a smooth 60 IBUs to my palate.

1304
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash thickness?
« on: October 28, 2015, 09:09:54 PM »
Isn't up to 2 qts/lb safe with limited pH worries.

Up to at least 4 qt/lb is fine. I haven't personally gone any thinner than that.
You may want to increase your mash times for mashes that thin. I know I started to see my efficiencies fall off once I got close to 4qt/lb until I started mashing longer.

1305
Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Mikkeller Spontanbeetroot
« on: October 28, 2015, 09:03:48 PM »
Just out of curiosty: how much are these Spontanmikkellers over at your end of the globe? That Spontanbasil was 15€ for a 750ml bottle, but I reckon it's actually a blend with Lindemans lambic, and hence not just any Mikkeller Spontan.
I thought I had read somewhere that he uses Girardin as his base lambic. I definitely get that funky Girardin Brett note on the nose with some of the beers in this series, but not all of them.

The SpontanSeaBuckthorn is an interesting one. There isn't much of a berry or fruit flavor/aroma on top of the usual lambic notes. But there is a sharp malic acid sourness on the middle of the tongue and some lingering tannic astringency. The lactic acidity seems towards the low side. The end result is tartness up front that drops off quickly and is balanced on the finish by the tannins. The acidity is more like Sour Patch Kids or Warheads (but not as strong as the latter), rather than lactic.

I think there were two ways to go with the Sea Buckthorn. The first is what Mikkeler has done here - back off on the lactic to keep the combo of malic and lactic from overpowering the palate. That leads to a better balance, but the acidity is dropping off a bit too quick. It's a little too tart up front and not tart enough on the back end.

The second way would be to go full throttle on the acidity, in the range of something like La Folie. I think the acidity would be a bit bracing at first, but the tannins would cut through and give some balance through the finish. At least that's my armchair quarterback take on it.

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