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Messages - erockrph

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1306
Equipment and Software / Re: Rethinking my brewery
« on: June 25, 2015, 05:24:53 PM »
Yep.  Tops out at 9 lb. of grain, but you can get up to 1.090 with it.  That means that you could make 5 gal. of a 1.045 beer by dilution.  I start with 3.25 gal. of water and end up with a 2.5 gal. batch.
If you were shooting for a bigger beer, could you brew a smaller batch (like 2 gallons) with the full 9 pounds of grain? Or is there a minimum amount of water, or mash thickness constraints? Could you run an iterated mash by replacing the grains and mashing a 2nd time, or are you forced to go straight to the boil process from the mash?

I really like the PicoBrew concept. The main constraint on my brewing is time. If I had an appliance that let me "set it and forget it" through the entire mash and boil, I'd be able to brew way more often. I already brew 2.5 gallon batches, so that would work out perfect for me. If the price point was lower, I'd be all over it.

1307
All Grain Brewing / Re: saison in the bottle: wait it out?
« on: June 25, 2015, 12:16:35 PM »
Check a bottle once or twice a week. Once it gets where you like it, drink it but save a handful for long-term aging and check them every couple of months. Take detailed notes.

I generally brew pale, low-gravity saisons and they're great after a few weeks in the bottle but are still pretty good 6-12 months later.

1308
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: home-made off-flavor kit
« on: June 25, 2015, 11:49:28 AM »
For an exam I gave recently, I took a 6 pack of Corona and put the bottles about 3" from a flourescent light for 4 days.  Worst case of skunking I've ever encountered!
That's interesting. I thought that they used tetra-isoAA extract so they could use clear bottles without skunking. Maybe I'm getting Corona confused with someone else.

1309
you might want to consider going with a 90 minute boil and adding the additions timed to the sequence as well.

Not sure what you mean. Are you suggesting to continue the Fibonacci series up to 90 minutes?

to include the series on quantity AND time so additions at 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, and Dry (although that wouldn't be 144

I looked into that. It wouldn't get me to a sufficiently high IBU. I would have to add a separate bittering hop, but wouldn't that be cheating?

Boil Size: 27.07 l
Post Boil Volume: 22.81 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 20.00 l   
Bottling Volume: 19.17 l
Estimated OG: 1.064 SG
Estimated Color: 17.7 EBC
Estimated IBU: 16.7 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 71.3 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
5.00 kg               Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (5.9 EBC)          Grain         1        76.9 %       
1.00 kg               Munich Malt - 20L (39.4 EBC)             Grain         2        15.4 %       
0.50 kg               Cara-Pils/Dextrine (3.9 EBC)             Grain         3        7.7 %         

0.00 g                Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 89.0 min     Hop           4        0.0 IBUs     
1.00 g                Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 55.0 min     Hop           5        1.1 IBUs     
1.00 g                Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 34.0 min     Hop           6        0.9 IBUs     
2.00 g                Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 21.0 min     Hop           7        1.4 IBUs     
3.00 g                Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 13.0 min     Hop           8        1.5 IBUs     
5.00 g                Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 8.0 min      Hop           9        1.7 IBUs     
8.00 g                Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min      Hop           10       1.8 IBUs     
13.00 g               Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 3.0 min      Hop           11       1.8 IBUs     
21.00 g               Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 2.0 min      Hop           12       2.0 IBUs     
55.00 g               Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min      Hop           13       2.7 IBUs     
34.00 g               Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min      Hop           14       1.7 IBUs     
89.00 g               Centennial [10.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool   Hop           15       0.0 IBUs     
144.00 g              Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days  Hop           17       0.0 IBUs     

1.0 pkg               American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 Yeast         16       -           
You could do the 144 minute addition as a hop stand. Flameout at 89 minutes with 89g, then hold it hot until 144 minutes, when you make your last hop addition of 144g.

1310
I've only just started to listen to these, but the audio quality on these seems to get better every year. One improvement that would be a huge help for future conferences is if the id3 tags could be set on these files prior to posting. For those of us using mp3 players it would be a huge help in figuring out what file is what. Right now the song titles are just a string of digits, with an unknown artist and "TASCAM DR-08" as the album title.

1311
Thank you!

1312
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid Yeast > Dry Yeast?
« on: June 24, 2015, 10:19:46 AM »
That may be true, but the fermentation character of 1007 is something that I really enjoy in my alts. I've heard that K97 is the dry equivalent.
Have you compared it to an alt made with 1056?
I have not, but I haven't compared it to one made with pale malt instead of Pils, either. I'm sure they would all be good beers, but that 1007 character is something I look for in my alts. It's merely a flavor preference on my part.

1313
The Pub / Re: Homebrewing and Children
« on: June 23, 2015, 08:46:18 PM »
My son just turned 5. He doesn't have much interest in helping me brew, but that's probably because he has no interest in the finished product. To him, beer and soda are the same thing. They're both things that adults drink that he has no interest in. He does love rubbing hop cones between his hands and smelling them, though.

My son made me real proud one day when we were eating lunch at a local brewpub during a brewday. You couldn't see them brewing from the dining room, but you could smell it. Right as they first bittering addition went in my son said "I smell hops!"  ;D

My thing with parenting is that I'm honest and straightforward as much as humanly possible. I try to explain things at his level, but without dumbing things down or sugarcoating them too much. Lead by example and give your kids the tools they need to make informed decisions and you will be astounded by how proud they make you.

1314
Commercial Beer Reviews / Pilsner Urquell in brown bottles!
« on: June 23, 2015, 08:32:13 PM »
Apparently I missed the memo, but PU is being sold in brown bottles in the US now. I haven't had Urquell in years since I have a longstanding boycott of green-bottled beer. I bought a 12-pack as a backup brew for my son's birthday party in case my Maerzen was too "dark" for any BMC drinkers (it wasn't, the keg kicked just as the bulk of the crowd left). I was happily surprised when I opened the case and the bottles were brown.

What a damn good beer this is. It is crisp and smooth, and loaded with hoppy goodness without being clinging and resinous. And the hop burps are unlike any American Ale. At 4.4% ABV this might just be the perfect lawnmower beer.

1315
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid Yeast > Dry Yeast?
« on: June 23, 2015, 05:23:38 PM »
I'm really excited about this, especially the K97. I'd definitely work up a house altbier recipe if I could keep a couple of packs of German ale yeast in the fridge at all times.

US-05 (as well as 1056 and 001) works just about as well for an alt as anything else.
That may be true, but the fermentation character of 1007 is something that I really enjoy in my alts. I've heard that K97 is the dry equivalent.

1316
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Souring old home brew
« on: June 23, 2015, 05:11:42 PM »
it will likely get badly oxidized in the process of decanting. Cooking is a good use of old homebrew though.
There are ways to minimize oxidation to the point where this wouldn't necessarily be doomed to failure right off the bat. Brettanomyces is pretty good at scavenging O2, or at least converting oxidation byproducts into tastier compounds. I'd get a starter of Brett going in the final fermentation vessel, and carefully pour the bottles into the starter while it is still showing signs of activity. I can't guarantee that it will be good, but if you have the fermenter space available then no harm in trying it out.

You might have trouble getting any sourness out of a finished beer. The hops and alcohol will inhibit lactobacillus from being very productive. Pediococcus will work on complex carbohydrates, but it's slow. A Brett-aged beer seems like the best bet, but if you have patience you might be able to get some acidity from a Pedio-Brett blend.

And I agree completely that cooking is an excellent use for old homebrew, especially maltier beers.

1317
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Woo hoo!
« on: June 23, 2015, 09:21:44 AM »
Congrats! Noticed your club is BN Army. We need a club that is AHA Forum.

Hey, I'd join that.
+2 - I've had the same thought as well. I generally consider this forum to be my "homebrew club" in a loose way. Certainly more so than the BN.

1318
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Liquid Yeast > Dry Yeast?
« on: June 23, 2015, 09:17:48 AM »
I use US-05 as my house yeast for most ales, and W34/70 for all my lagers, but I still haven't found a good dry for hefe, wit, Belgian etc.  I've tried WB-06 for hefe and it's just lacking, and T-58 isn't so good either.

T58 works great for my wit but maybe it is just my palate. It's the only style that seems to work for that yeast in my opinion.

To the op, I use dry yeast for 90% of my brews but mainly because I do a lot of American styles or lagers. Fermentis was supposed to announce two yeast strains available in 11.5 g at nhc which I am excited about. K97 German ale and s189 lager.
I'm really excited about this, especially the K97. I'd definitely work up a house altbier recipe if I could keep a couple of packs of German ale yeast in the fridge at all times.

1319
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Temperature for priming sugar solution?
« on: June 23, 2015, 08:55:41 AM »
I don't let it cool at all.  There's only a cup or so of hot liquid and when you siphon the beer in it cools down immediately.
+1 - I do the same thing. Plus, the hotter it is the better it will mix. I usually start my siphon, then add the priming solution once there's about an inch or so of beer in the bottling bucket. It cools almost instantly, and the swirling motion of the beer mixes it in pretty well. I still give it a gentle swirl with a sanitized spoon at the end just to be sure that it mixes in evenly.

1320
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Do Paradox sour beers have viable dregs?
« on: June 23, 2015, 08:15:20 AM »
Yeah, I guess that is what I am relegated to do.  If I choose that route, I will let you know the results (if any).
Make sure to let Mike Tonsmeire know as well so he can update the list on his website

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