« on: June 26, 2015, 08:14:14 PM »
And to sum up the thread...+1
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And to sum up the thread...+1
72F is pretty warm for any yeast. I'd say if you can get it cooler, ferment with Saflager 34/70. It's a very versatile yeast, even into the 60's it ferments clean.
Yep. Tops out at 9 lb. of grain, but you can get up to 1.090 with it. That means that you could make 5 gal. of a 1.045 beer by dilution. I start with 3.25 gal. of water and end up with a 2.5 gal. batch.If you were shooting for a bigger beer, could you brew a smaller batch (like 2 gallons) with the full 9 pounds of grain? Or is there a minimum amount of water, or mash thickness constraints? Could you run an iterated mash by replacing the grains and mashing a 2nd time, or are you forced to go straight to the boil process from the mash?
For an exam I gave recently, I took a 6 pack of Corona and put the bottles about 3" from a flourescent light for 4 days. Worst case of skunking I've ever encountered!That's interesting. I thought that they used tetra-isoAA extract so they could use clear bottles without skunking. Maybe I'm getting Corona confused with someone else.
You could do the 144 minute addition as a hop stand. Flameout at 89 minutes with 89g, then hold it hot until 144 minutes, when you make your last hop addition of 144g.you might want to consider going with a 90 minute boil and adding the additions timed to the sequence as well.
Not sure what you mean. Are you suggesting to continue the Fibonacci series up to 90 minutes?
to include the series on quantity AND time so additions at 0, 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, and Dry (although that wouldn't be 144
I looked into that. It wouldn't get me to a sufficiently high IBU. I would have to add a separate bittering hop, but wouldn't that be cheating?
Boil Size: 27.07 l
Post Boil Volume: 22.81 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 20.00 l
Bottling Volume: 19.17 l
Estimated OG: 1.064 SG
Estimated Color: 17.7 EBC
Estimated IBU: 16.7 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 71.3 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.00 kg Pale Malt (2 Row) Bel (5.9 EBC) Grain 1 76.9 %
1.00 kg Munich Malt - 20L (39.4 EBC) Grain 2 15.4 %
0.50 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (3.9 EBC) Grain 3 7.7 %
0.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 89.0 min Hop 4 0.0 IBUs
1.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 55.0 min Hop 5 1.1 IBUs
1.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 34.0 min Hop 6 0.9 IBUs
2.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 21.0 min Hop 7 1.4 IBUs
3.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 13.0 min Hop 8 1.5 IBUs
5.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 8.0 min Hop 9 1.7 IBUs
8.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 10 1.8 IBUs
13.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 3.0 min Hop 11 1.8 IBUs
21.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 2.0 min Hop 12 2.0 IBUs
55.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 13 2.7 IBUs
34.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 1.0 min Hop 14 1.7 IBUs
89.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Steep/Whirlpool Hop 15 0.0 IBUs
144.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 17 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 Yeast 16 -
I have not, but I haven't compared it to one made with pale malt instead of Pils, either. I'm sure they would all be good beers, but that 1007 character is something I look for in my alts. It's merely a flavor preference on my part.That may be true, but the fermentation character of 1007 is something that I really enjoy in my alts. I've heard that K97 is the dry equivalent.Have you compared it to an alt made with 1056?
That may be true, but the fermentation character of 1007 is something that I really enjoy in my alts. I've heard that K97 is the dry equivalent.I'm really excited about this, especially the K97. I'd definitely work up a house altbier recipe if I could keep a couple of packs of German ale yeast in the fridge at all times.
US-05 (as well as 1056 and 001) works just about as well for an alt as anything else.