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Messages - erockrph

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1441
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Boulevard brewing yeast strains
« on: May 20, 2015, 10:20:22 AM »
"We fell in love with the way the beer tasted from the fermenter it was cellaring in before packaging, FV 7, and Tank 7 was born. Since then, we've modified the recipe just a tiny bit when we brew Saison-Brett.  All the hopping remains the same, but we mash just a bit longer when we're brewing Saison-Brett. We really want the beer to dry out quite a bit before we add the brett. Since brett continues to chew away at sugars, we want to make sure we have a beer with a very low final gravity before we introduce the brett."
This is an interesting quote. I think the old school of thought was always "you have to leave as much behind for Brett to chew on as possible". So it seemed like you would hear a lot of recommendations to mash high to leave a lot of dextrins as food for Brett.

This quote seems to line up with what I've been hearing more and more over the past couple of years - that Brett isn't producing it's typical flavor contributions through its metabolism of sugar and dextrins, but rather from converting other byproducts such as phenolics and esters produced by Saccharomyces in primary. If Saison Brett is produced like this, then that certainly cements it in my mind that Brett doesn't need dextrins to work as a secondary yeast.

1442
Beer Recipes / Re: German Wheat Beers
« on: May 19, 2015, 10:05:42 AM »
There are a lot of ways to skin these particular cats. For my hefe I like to keep it simple: 60:40 wheat:pils

For my dunkelweizen I do like a touch of crystal malt character. I usually use about 7% Caramunich III, and go with a mix of wheat malt, Dark Munich and Vienna for the base malt. Then I use chocolate wheat for color adjustment. I haven't had a chance to play with Dark Wheat, but I'm planning on it for my next shot at this style.

1443
All Things Food / Re: Smokin time
« on: May 18, 2015, 04:52:03 PM »
Here's a random idea that popped to mind while reading this thread. Picture this on an apron:


1444
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Cold Crashing (keg vs fermenter)
« on: May 18, 2015, 04:20:41 PM »
For my lagers I cold-crash in the fermenter for 2-3 days at 30F, then transfer to a keg. For my ales I don't generally bother with cold crashing.

1445
Hop Growing / Re: Thinking about growing hops
« on: May 18, 2015, 12:18:02 PM »
We have hundreds of deer where I live and they will eat anything. The only thing they wont eat are the hops. One of them tries every year; I always find a cone or two and a leaf with a bite taken out, but they must taste pretty bad if even the deer won't eat them.
Hmmm... I might have to try spreading some hops around the garden this year. Those bastards eat all my friggin' pepper plants every year.

1446
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Controlling FG
« on: May 18, 2015, 11:32:52 AM »
Since yeast still clean up their metabolic byproducts (and reduce off-flavors) after fermentation is complete, it's not such a great idea to stop them before they're finished. Plus, I can't think of a style where it would be beneficial to leave the beer sweeter than the proper yeast would end up.

In the wine/cider world you would typically use sulfites & sorbates and/or repeated racking to bring fermentation to an early halt. For the reasons stated above, I don't know if that's a good idea for beer.

1447
I aerate whenever I remember to do it. I usually shoot for pre-pitch, but it's usually the one thing I forget at the end of a long day. It's usually right as I'm pouring in my pitch when I get that sudden "dammit" moment when I realize I didn't aerate. At that point I'll just aerate after pitching.

1448
Beer Recipes / Re: Piney pale ale feedback
« on: May 17, 2015, 07:14:14 PM »
+1 to Jim and hopfenundmalz. Chinook or SImcoe for pine plus Willamette or Fuggles for earthiness will get you there. But Chinook and Simcoe are much stronger than the latter two, so you'd want to use less Chinook or Simcoe than Willamette or Fuggles.
Agree with this. I'd say replace the EKG's with UK Fuggle in the original recipe with the understanding that you're shooting for pine with an undertone of earth. Earthy hops just aren't as "earthy" to the extent that piny hops are "piny".

1449
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rubbing Alcohol
« on: May 16, 2015, 08:45:06 PM »
If you wanted to use alcohol, 151 proof spirits would be the ideal choice. Cheap vodka is only 40% alcohol and isn't effective as 70%.

1450
The Pub / Re: Will this get me kicked off the forum?
« on: May 16, 2015, 02:11:19 PM »
So is the "other room" the champagne room? Or is this just the ladies room?

1451
Beer Recipes / Re: belgian pale ale
« on: May 15, 2015, 11:35:35 AM »
Styrian Goldings are a nice choice for a BPA. I also like to use D-45 Candi Syrup instead of caramel malt. It gives a similar caramel/toffee note, but ferments dry like a sugar addition.

1452
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Fermentation Schedule while Kegging
« on: May 15, 2015, 11:33:04 AM »
Don't get too hasty.  Have you smelled/tasted it yet?  You want to make sure the yeast has finished cleaning up after itself and that there's no diacetyl or acetaldehyde.
+1 - Your primary schedule should be the same regardless of whether you're going into bottles or a keg. Not only do you want fermentation to be complete, but you want to make sure that the yeast mop up before you rack it.

1453
All Grain Brewing / Re: Lemon Drop Hefe?
« on: May 15, 2015, 09:39:03 AM »
Would lactose help counter the tart?
I don't know if lactose is going to add enough sweetness to balance this out, plus it's going to add a creamy mouthfeel that's probably not what you're looking for.

Instead of a traditional hefe, maybe you could target something like a wit or a saison that actually goes nicely with a touch of tartness.

1454
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Spontaneous fermentation
« on: May 14, 2015, 08:42:28 PM »
I'm not sure I would be too confident about whatever bugs have found their way on to grocery store oranges. Just imagine the places they have been before they made it to your beer. I guess it doesn't hurt to try to ferment with them, but I would be sure to test that the pH has dropped as well as the gravity before I put it in my mouth.
Yeah, if I were trying to grow up a culture and it wasn't from my own fruit, I'd probably look for organic produce - preferably something from a local farmer's market. Most grocery store fruit has been treated/waxed/etc.

Still, if the pH and gravity drops, it smells OK, and there's no visible mold, then go for it. In all likelihood you're probably growing up bugs that collected on the fruit from your local flora, rather than something that made its way from the orchard. The oranges probably dropped the pH a bit to inhibit the nasties as well.

1455
Ingredients / Re: hop shot
« on: May 14, 2015, 05:36:25 PM »
I have used hop shots and the beer has turned out great and I really don't know much of what hops make them up but one thing I do know is as much as you may be compelled to taste it.. Don't do it.
Yep... I'm still tasting it lol

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