Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - erockrph

Pages: 1 ... 96 97 [98] 99 100 ... 369
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: the eye of the murky IPA beholder
« on: May 26, 2015, 08:26:18 PM »
I don't think it's chill haze. I did check mash pH when brewing (although I didn't adjust it, so maybe something went wrong there?). I also added an enormous amount of hops in whirlpool. So I'll store it in my fermentation freezer for 2 weeks and see whether it becomes less murky. If I'm able to not touch it, that is.
Define "enormous amount of hops". I find at about 4 oz per gallon I have problems with murky IPA's. As of right now, my best guess is that it is from having a lot of fine hop material in suspension from pellet hops. I need to test to confirm, but I didn't have as much of a problem with murky beer prior to switching to all-pellet hops.

Beer Recipes / Re: Brown Ale Recipe review
« on: May 26, 2015, 04:58:55 PM »
Regarding the chestnuts, I'd add them to the mash if you are primarily looking to get fermentables from them. The way you're using it sounds more like a flavor addition to me, so I think the boil is just fine.

Otherwise, the recipe looks good to me!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: the eye of the murky IPA beholder
« on: May 26, 2015, 11:54:01 AM »
could still be young. give it a couple days/weeks in the back of the fridge. This should help drop yeast out and clear things up. assuming the beer didn't get horribly aerated during transfer a couple more weeks is not going to damage your hop impression significantly.

if it's already cold and it's murky that sounds like bad chill haze and you should address your mash pH
+1 - Even IPA's benefit from a little bit of maturation to smooth out the rough edges. While dry hop character does tend to fade quickly, I've had IPA's with a large amount of whirlpool hops go six months or more while still retaining a good amount of hop character.

Once the beer is fully carbonated, try storing it as cold as you can (30F/-1C if you can manage it). That will help preserve it while dropping out as much particulates as possible.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: sourish and metallic
« on: May 26, 2015, 11:40:01 AM »
The other day I tasted a black IPA brewed by a Belgian homebrewer in August of last year. The beer was overcarbonated, little hop aroma with a nice bitter ending, and, that's my point, a slightly sourish, maybe metallic taste in the middle. What could be the cause of this sour & metallic taste? Could it be an infection? If not, what else?
Metallic is probably from hops, water, or the combination of the two. I get it from certain commercial brews that are bittered with Nugget, but not when I use Nugget myself.

Overcarbonation may also be contributing. Dissolved carbonic acid does increase the perception of acidity a bit, and sometimes comes across as metallic (at least to my palate).

Beer Recipes / Re: Lagers
« on: May 25, 2015, 09:03:23 PM »
Sorry man, I'm only kinda kidding and I know you live in Belgium but to me it always sounds silly and "noobish" when someone says they "don't like lagers." And, for crying out loud, Germany is right next to Belgium. Road trip, brother. All there is to it.
To me that's like saying "I don't like Belgian beers". There's really a broad spectrum and you will probably find something you like if you search long enough. I do understand the flip side, however - if you haven't found something you like on the first few tries you aren't likely to keep looking too hard.

The Pub / Re: Am I just an old far-fogey?
« on: May 25, 2015, 09:18:02 AM »
The puppet masters are relentless in their attempts to make men into women and women into men.  I refuse to participate.
I believe you

Beer Recipes / Re: Lagers
« on: May 25, 2015, 06:18:29 AM »
My lagers don't take as long as my Kolsch does.

I can have a kolsch ready in 3-4 weeks. I can also have a helles ready in that time frame. I will tend to lager most of my higher gravity lagers longer than lower gravity lagers, but even then not longer than 3-4 weeks. A lot of times though I think folks are lagering lower gravity lagers way longer than needed. If you use some fining they only need about a week at cold temps and usually are ready.
I think a lot of brewers get hung up on the old "1 week per 1 degree Plato" thing. That may hold true if you lager at warmer temps, but I lager around 30F and I'm usually tapping my kegs as soon as they are fully carbonated.

For big lagers (doppelbock specifically) I'll lager for a month or two, then condition at cellar temps for maybe 6 months or so. I think that warmer aging does a little bit better at mellowing alcohol and other flavor development that I'm looking for by cellaring a big beer.

Life's too short to use Ringwood IMO. Not my favorite.
Agreed, but if it's already been pitched then the deed is done. It is possible to make good beer with Ringwood (love me some Geary's stout), and DFH does supposedly use it for 60- and 90-minute, so I can see why it would be called for in a clone. But I'm totally with you - there are so many other great English yeast strains that don't produce guaranteed butterbombs. I have no need for Ringwood in my brewery.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Busch Copper Lager
« on: May 24, 2015, 08:03:19 AM »
I have been making a lot more lagers of late myself.  It seems there are IPA's all over the shelves in the stores these days.  It's more fun to make beer that has less availability and finding a good German Pils or even a CAP in the store or at a pub is much more unusual.

Between Nooner and Pivo, I'm hoping that the Pils bandwagon is going to start rolling soon in the craft beer market. But I hear what you're saying. I brew a lot of Continental and English style beers for the same reason.

Beer Recipes / Re: Ghost Pepper and Guava
« on: May 24, 2015, 08:00:47 AM »
Maybe something like this:

I haven't used mine yet, but I bought it on recommendation from the guy at Pepper Palace. He said he preferred the Jolokia powder to their Reaper powder because it carried a bit of flavor and wasn't just pure heat. I figure anyone who can actually handle enough of this stuff to be able to taste flavor must know what he's talking about. And frankly, I've never gone wrong with any of the products they carry.

Equipment and Software / Re: Preferred Gap Setting?
« on: May 24, 2015, 07:44:33 AM »
My gap is ~35 mil. I use a 0.88mm (Dunlop Tortex green) guitar pick to set my gap. I BIAB, so too fine a crush isn't an issue for me. YMMV for spargers.

Both WLP002 and Ringwood are highly flocculant strains. I would stongly suggest that you rouse the yeast 1-2 times a day after the first few days of strong fermentation, and raise the temp if possible. Ringwood has a tendency to produce lousy diacetyl-laden beer. If the yeast drops out before they've cleaned up the diacetyl, it might end up tasting like you dry hopped with Werther's Original and/or movie theater popcorn.

Having said that, Ringwood is fairly clean if you get the diacetyl under control. The WLP002 (Fullers) has a distinct ester profile, to me it's mainly stonefruit (like dried apricots). It's hard to tell which strain will end up taking the lead in a blend. If it's the Ringwood, then your 60-minute clone will likely come out as advertised. If the 002 stands out, then you'll get more of that ester thing going on. That's not necessarily a bad thing - I prefer Fullers to Ringwood for hoppy ales, but it might not exactly match the flavor profile you're shooting for in your 60-minute clone.

Either way, it should make a nice IPA as long as you take care of the fermentation.

I have a big triple brewday planned for Thursday. I'm planning on making a Saison, a Pyment and a Lambic-style sour - all using Gerwurztraminer must from a wine kit.

Tonight I'm (hopefully) going to start the sour wort process for the sour. The plan is to reconstitute Wheat DME in a keg with hot water, drop the pH to 4.5 with lactic acid, and innoculate with some Pils malt. After I pull out the grains, I'll seal and purge the keg and throw it in a cooler with hot water bottles. I'm hoping I can keep it hot enough to get plenty sour by Thursday. Then I'll heat it to 170F or so to kill off the bugs. I'm going to primary with US-05 for a few days before pitching a big starter of Orval dregs that I've stepped up a few times.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Just joined this forum
« on: May 24, 2015, 05:57:41 AM »
Welcome - post any questions and get reliable responses from folks who have been there and done that!
+1 - Think of this forum as a friendly and helpful homebrew club. There's tons of great information here and we're all willing to share. The brewers here love the hobby and we all want to see newcomers succeed.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Busch Copper Lager
« on: May 22, 2015, 09:57:01 AM »
I've spent the last couple months trying all the locals here in VT and there are a crapton of them. Happily none of them were terrible. certainly a lot of unremarkable stuff with a few highlights and one or two that I didn't finish. My main kvetch with the craft brew movement right now is that I can get any kind of IPA that I can imagine but finding a really good wit beer is nigh unto impossible (Keith's beer being an exception there)
Agreed, although for me replace witbier with dunkel/marzen/helles or mild/bitter/60-. Once the IPA craze ebbs a bit, these brewers are going to need some chops beyond brewing the most extreme thing they can think of. As much as I like to try all the new stuff, once I've had a flight at a brewery I need something that I can settle in on for a session or else I won't be rushing back. I've had too many beers billed as "Octoberfest" that are ester-bombs and obviously brewed at ale temps with either the house ale strain or 2112. A brewery that can put out solid lagers will have an easier time gaining traction with the BMC crowd and will stand out from the crowd once the gowth curve of craft beer starts to flatten out.

Pages: 1 ... 96 97 [98] 99 100 ... 369