Sodium levels in the 40ppm range are perfectly fine. As a matter of fact, I prefer a little bit of sodium in my maltier beers. It's not till you hit the 50-100ppm range where sodium may start to become an issue.
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Thanks Eric! Did you force carb or keep it still?Its still. For me, carbonation is more for the smaller, more quaffable meads. Keep in mind that you will get a raw (i.e., unfermented) honey flavor if you use it in significant quantity for backsweetening. It's not that bad, but it does seem a bit less integrated than if you didn't back sweeten.
I thought the same, but at a fairly low level the CaraMunich just ups the maltiness a bit in this recipe.Damn...I've got that recipe fermenting right now and I COMPLETELY overlooked the caraMunich..oh, well.
That's fine. I'll take it off your hands and you can try again
I'll let ya know if I need disposal! Actually, once I calmed down, I realized I don't "believe" in using crystal malts in an Ofest anyway.
I use hot water and baking soda to remove odors.^^^ this
Sorry, Frank, but that doesn't make much sense. Most of lager flavor comes from the malt and hops. The yeast, if anything, makes less of an impact than an ale yeast.Lager yeasts do have a specific fermentation character that I pick up. Unlike Frank, I rather enjoy it. Don't get me wrong, lager yeasts make very clean beers, but they leave a definite signature behind.
There are so many different types of lager beer that I don't think you can dismiss them all as having the same mouthfeel or flavor.
In an IPA huge hop flavor and aroma are expected and some haze is also. But in my opinion the drier IPAs are more drinkable, so less attenuative yeast won't help. Less floculant? Maybe, but it's kind of like using the wrong tool. If you want more hop just add more hop. I know it sounds too easy, but it might just work.Bingo. Use the yeast that gets you the flavor profile, attenuation, and flocculation you want. If it drops the hop character too much, then add more hops. We're homebrewers; it's no big deal to add an extra ounce of hops.
What if you do a bit of gypsum and a bit of CaCl2?If I add both but keep Sulfate and Cl in line with profile, that leaves me with 10.3ppm Ca which fits the profile (12) but is nowhere near 20-40 ppm. It's where I started until I re-read Martin's suggestion and I'm paraphrasing here, of 20 minimum for fine tasting lagers and 40 to ensure oxalate precipitation
This kind of takes me (newbie lager brewer) back to the question of which aspect is more important: Ca, sulfate, Cl, Lactic, Bicarb, etc? Like I said, I know I'm likely over thinking and should just follow "Amber Malty" which is easy to hit with my RO water, I just don't know if I will get everything I can from A Märzen with this profile.
Any thoughts to help me clear my head? To paraphrase another member here and the instructor at my LHBS "Making beer is not rocket science, its much more important!"